[Alan Wilson]

Hi everyone I'm new to this amazing website.

So here is my story, bought a 2010 i30 diesel wagon just over 1 month ago from an independent dealer with 108,000kms on the odometer with every service in the book stamped by the same hyundai dealer it was originally purchased from. I am a qualified car mechanic and test drove the car up to about about 70kmh and it drove perfectly.

I bought the car and it now has just over 113,000kms on the odometer, I am still getting use to the car and have been driving it normally and everything has been  running perfectly, up until recently I have noticed it has been slipping between 2nd and 3rd gear.

I checked the codes with my obd2 reader and no fault codes were found, I checked the transmission dipstick and the level was spot on full, I checked the service book and it stated the fluid was changed at 90,000km.

I did some google searching and came across this website only to find out the valve bodys are a common problem (Yay!), just not sure where to go first from here, I know I have a 3 month warranty with the dealer but should I go to a transmission specialist first because I know dealers will try anything to get out of it. I am a qualified car mechanic but I have limited knowledge on transmissions.

I like the car a lot and everywhere else it is faultless, just doesn't like that 2nd-3rd shift.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Dazzler]

  Alan. I can't really help just at the moment but will come back to this when I have more time.

[tw2005]

Not meaning to insult your quals, but the level, that was checked at idle in Neutral? One owner? Does the book indicate who? Is it possible to contact them and get a run down on any known issue.

I believe 2-3 shifts are the ones that start to get a bit funny when the VB goes but that's just what I've read.

On the bright side if it goes to custard then you should be able to do most repairs yourself whether that's a VB replacement or tranny swapout.

Personally I think  a drain and fill is a bit of a joke and waste. Get about 2 and a bit litres out of a 6-8Litre sytem.

I drain and then disconnect the cooling lines and pump new fluid until it's all clean.

one of mine has had a VB replacement but before me so can't comment other than that.  I'd be reporting it ASAP and I'd expect thay'll say it'll  need to be serviced first

[Dazzler]

Hi again Alan. I was in deep discussion with family when I skimmed your post earlier. That is a shame about the trans. As you say the little i30diesel is a gem and this issue with the auto transmission is one of the few black spots. All you can really do is try for a warranty fix under the 3 months warranty, but I suspect you would get a better outcome checking out all the posts on here about the issue (for tips) then fixing it yourself.   

[nzenigma]

Hi Alan, Between tw and me we have seen quite a few FD crdi autos . Personally never had a bad one. The vb problem is not common and there seems to be no reason why the give trouble.
I suggest follow tw's advice and do the job yourself. Box stays in the car.
Cheers G

[tw2005]

Or check out the used unit in adelaide that's going cheap $300 unit on Gummie. Obviously there is a risk but states it was a buy in for a job that never happened.

I think OEM VB alone could be close to $1000 not using Aussie network, direct from Korea. I reckon you could get a stat writeoff possibly for less than that with low k although realistically yours is low K given how sound these can be

[cruiserfied]

Best indicator of a VB concern is 2-3 shift at very light throttle. You will get a flare between gears if the concern is present.

As for the fix, go hard at your seller. Get your used car warranty.

[tw2005]

Best indicator of a VB concern is 2-3 shift at very light throttle. You will get a flare between gears if the concern is present.

As for the fix, go hard at your seller. Get your used car warranty.

Amen

[Alan Wilson]

Thanks for your replies, I did check the fluid level when it was hot and in park on level ground and the dipstick said full in the hot position.

I'll have a decent go at the dealer first and see what I can get done under the warranty.

Out of curiosity does anyone know if anything was changed in these replacement vb to fix the problem like better quality valves or something?
Also I keep reading that the transmissions in both the petrol and diesel models are the same, does that mean exactly the same or same transmission but different internals to cope with the extra torque in the diesel models?

Thanks in advance.

[tw2005]

Thanks for your replies, I did check the fluid level when it was hot and in park on level ground and the dipstick said full in the hot position.

I'll have a decent go at the dealer first and see what I can get done under the warranty.

Out of curiosity does anyone know if anything was changed in these replacement vb to fix the problem like better quality valves or something?
Also I keep reading that the transmissions in both the petrol and diesel models are the same, does that mean exactly the same or same transmission but different internals to cope with the extra torque in the diesel models?

Thanks in advance.

Manual states to check in neutral.  I just had a quick check of mine and level appears the same in both positions but
I'll share a story with you about one of my Mitsubishi Auto boxes a couple of decades ago.

Now it was becoming a little harsh but the core of this story is they changed the fluid. Drive it home no real improvement but ok. Next day, cruising to work stick the boot in to kick back to 2nd and as it approaches 4-5000 RPM box drops to neutral and tacho nearly does a 360.

back off and box grabs a gear. Repeat the kickdown and it happens again. So what's the first thing on my mind. working box now not working, Transmission Specialist and I bet there's not enough fluid. Get to the workshop before it opens but in the meantime, read the manual and check the fluid in "N".

Hello, Hello, any fluid down there. Stick is not showing fluid

Shift to park, oh there's heaps of fluid , yeah.

You know what this means, they filled the box and checked the stick in P which is incorrect. I think I estimated at least another 2 litres was added before it was correct.

As for the VB , can't comment. @cruiserfied would be the best candidate for that. There is a part number revision  or updated part whether that included improvements I don't know but I think the issue is valve body wear. Sonnax do kits that a meant to improve wear.

As far as the boxes are concerned, both 2.0 and 1.6CRDi are both A4CF2, both use the same VB but both are not identical internally obviously the gearing for a Turbo Diesel with 255Nm will not be the same as the 2.0 with less torque.

I did have a bit of a look once and there also may be differences in a clutch pack or two with the diesel having additional plates and steels to handle the extra torque.

[tw2005]

year 2010, 45000-23440,  Diesel box. VB 46210-23020 after Nov 2008

Year 2008, 45000-23440, Diesel box,. VB 46210-23000 until 24 Nov 2008

Petrol 2.0, 45000-23430 23 Jun 2009 thereafter 45000-23435

VB 46210-23000 , 46210-23020 same date range as above

That implies to me that since the problem persisted after that date there was no improvement but who's to say that they did not improve it and keep the same part number in newer batches?

Way beyond my knowledge but I'm a fan of changing and flushing the fluid more often than what the service interval suggests.

This is a sample from 41000k box that went into our wagon. It got a change and flush and is still pink after additional 40000k.

[tw2005]

Valve Body Repair A4CF1 A4CF2

[nzenigma]

Ive been watching that company for a couple of years, they seem to be on the ball. I would like to know if the VB needs machining to take the sleeve. Irrespective, it is still an economical remedy.

[tw2005]

Ive been watching that company for a couple of years, they seem to be on the ball. I would like to know if the VB needs machining to take the sleeve. Irrespective, it is still an economical remedy.

likely knocking off ideas form Sonnax and their imagery

here's the Sonnax array of goodies and tooling





Symptoms:

    Soft shifts
    High line pressure in Reverse
    Low line rise in Drive

Cause:
These problems can be caused by severe wear of the boost valve sleeve, allowing EPC and/or reverse oil leakage.
boost valve kit 84741-01K

Looks like it's a simple remove and replace job.

1. Dissasembly
a.    Remove OE retainer and adjuster plug and save for resuse.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
 Keep OE setting of the adjuster plug to main-
tain OE line pressure. Turning the adjusting nut clockwise will reduce
the gap setting, reducing base line pressure. Turning the adjusting
nut counter-clockwise will increase the gap setting, increasing base
line pressure. To prevent excessively low line pressure and pressure
regulator  valve  bore  engagement  issues,  always  maintain  a  mini-
mum of .060" gap setting (

b.    Remove and discard OE boost valve and sleeve.
2. Installation & Assembly
a. Install Sonnax boost valve and sleeve.
b.   Reinstall OE adjuster plug and retaining
pin, maintaing proper gap setting as noted

3. Final Testing
A vacuum test at the ports indicated holds 18 in-
Hg or more.
If poor vacuum results are discovered at the OE
pressure  regulator  valve,  Sonnax  PR  valve  kit 
84741-03K
 should be installed

[tw2005]

VB layout https://d2q1ebiag300ih.cloudfront.net/uploads/tech_resource/file/571/HyundKia-A4CF1-VBL_Interactive.pdf?v=1483625150

Parts & Tooling Sonnax

[nzenigma]

As you say, looks like a simple job. I want to try it! 

[tw2005]

As you say, looks like a simple job. I want to try it! 

Really? Do you have one that's suspect? I'm a little surprised Sonnax don't have rebuilt VB for these. maybe not popular enough in the US

[nzenigma]

As you say, looks like a simple job. I want to try it! 

Really? Do you have one that's suspect? I'm a little surprised Sonnax don't have rebuilt VB for these. maybe not popular enough in the US

Well mate, look at the huge number of FDs etc on the road, their value is reducing and the VB problem is not particularly common, so I guess they look at the most economical fix ( from supply and consumer perspectives). I THINK   

[tw2005]

As you say, looks like a simple job. I want to try it! 

Really? Do you have one that's suspect? I'm a little surprised Sonnax don't have rebuilt VB for these. maybe not popular enough in the US

Well mate, look at the huge number of FDs etc on the road, their value is reducing and the VB problem is not particularly common, so I guess they look at the most economical fix ( from supply and consumer perspectives). I THINK 

Hard to judge how many really fail. Undoubtly a lot of other factors would play like driving style, city or HWY  etc.
Reminds me a little of the wave spring issues in the Mits boxes. some would die early, others would last a long time, some would fail but the box would continue for ages too, most only ever found out when a fragment punched through the filter and detonated the pump. That part eventually was corrected but way too late, probably about 9 years after the original design.

Still curious why you want to try one?

[nzenigma]

Still curious why you want to try one?

Well they say " he who dares".... is doomed to fail. In other words I need a challenge.
On the Mitzi subject, this morning's task is to de-rat the office and repair damage. Did a quick inspection on Saturday and assumed  water was dripping onto the hot rear manifold. But now suspect the critters have chewed a fuel line.

[Alan Wilson]

Thanks for the help guys, greatly appreciated.