[Ash2019]

Hi All,

I've had my i30 (2009) for about 7 years now and it's had no trouble until the last 12 months. I will attach a video below if I can:



It's done this a few times over the last year, but usually clicks over on the second or third attempt to turn it on. I had my big service about 6 months ago (timing belt, new battery etc). However, I haven't been to start it at all for the last two weeks. Have had mechanics look into it multiple times over the last 12 months but it's always started with them, I've been told I might need to get a new key programmed as it could be an immobiliser issue - would like to just get some advice on this as being a female in my 20's who has a very basic knowledge of car maintenance I've been ripped off multiple times.

Thanks in advance for an advice you can share!

[tw2005]

I guess the video is uploading still? Says unavailable

[tw2005]

On face value without any more onfo I don't believe a new key would achieve anything. The transponder chip is inside the casing fixed in place. It's either going to work or not work and I've never heard of a transponder chip failing( not saying it can't but unlikely)

If it's a immobiliser issue and if bad reads, I would think either the antenna ring around the ignition or maybe bad module.

Or it's nothing to do with the immobiliser and something else.

[Ash2019]

Sorry - would help if I took it off private, hopefully you can see it now!

[tw2005]

I have diesels, @nzenigma Gary has extensive experience as their's been a few with no start issues over time.

SO I've repeated what you've done in my diesel.

I'm not sure why you are waiting for the immobiliser light to go out before cranking.

Is there a reason? What happens  if you crank straight away? The same?

Anyway, the immo light looks normal to me, if it was missing or mismatch it should flash.

So I think the key is ok, it goes out after that long wait, so does mine, but mine starts , yours does not.

I'd like to see or know what happens with that immo light if cranked immediately.

It would be guessing at this stage what it is, no fuel pressure ?, bad crankshaft sensor? which I believe is a known fault to occur.

I tink someone with a scanner to read live data while this car is cranked may be needed, fuel pressure checks etc.

Sorry, have not owned the petrol so my guidance is minimal.

I don't think I'd be running out to get a key and do you have a spare? have you tried that?

[tw2005]

Moving tacho whilst cranking , going to need some input from those that may have seen this. It may mean the crank sensor could be ok, just not sure if it should read higher than that on a crank / no start

[mgauci17]

It happend to me once , I replaced the Antenna ring round the ignition.

[tw2005]

It happend to me once , I replaced the Antenna ring round the ignition.

Does the video match what your symptoms were with the immo light etc? @mgauci17

[Ash2019]

here's another vid when i crank straight away

[mgauci17]

It happend to me once , I replaced the Antenna ring round the ignition.

Does the video match what your symptoms were with the immo light etc? @mgauci17

Nearly the same, my immobilisier led sometimes did not light up.

[tw2005]

It happend to me once , I replaced the Antenna ring round the ignition.

Does the video match what your symptoms were with the immo light etc? @mgauci17

Nearly the same, my immobilisier led sometimes did not light up.

Cheers, I think we may need some more input. My gut tells me that looks normal, in your case bad antenna may explain why sometimes it was missing but  I honestly can't say more other than what is currently happening matches what my car does,

May see if I can find some historic threads to read.

[tw2005]

here's another vid when i crank straight away

What i expected, was there an answer for the spare key? If they claim it's a key then the spare should work immediately.

I don't expect it does, but here's your chance to prove it's not the key if it's repeatedly not starting right now.

[tw2005]

Do you know with the servicing records, does it indicate a fuel filter replacement any time around when this issue started?

[Ash2019]

no spare key unfortunately

[tw2005]

Not sure how FB video links go. Watch the immo light and Tacho , it is dark but looks like about the same level as yours and immo light also doing same as yours.

This lady was after help and reported incorrect fitted fuel filter after a service, may have been a dealer shop, not sure but not really relevant.

Just wondering

[tw2005]

no spare key unfortunately

Right, they are expensive a little risky with one key. They can be cloned, even a basic key, no remote would do as a backup. anyway, that's that idea gone. I don't think it's key

[Ash2019]

Would it be normal for it to playing up this long after a service if it was the fuel filter? This is exactly what my car has been doing the last few weeks, except i can't even get it started now.

Would a car fault scanner pick up this issue? (sorry if that's a really stupid question?)

[Ash2019]

Only thing my receipt says is 'Fuel Injector & System Cleaner' - so not sure?

[tw2005]

Would it be normal for it to playing up this long after a service if it was the fuel filter? This is exactly what my car has been doing the last few weeks, except i can't even get it started now.

Would a car fault scanner pick up this issue? (sorry if that's a really stupid question?)

I doubt there will be fault codes, but something that can show live data may help,  a basic code reader not really useful, I don't know  of the top of my head what's around,  @nzenigma  is likely in the process of providing some input.

Good question about the filter.  The fact that someone has had a no start, intermittent start issue from a suspect filter, I would not discount it.

I'm thinking, it's intermiitent like hers, it's been sitting, lets assume fuel bleeds out of the system whilst it sits and the pump is not priming or something about the filter is causing an issue.

It's worth checking but I guess if you have to pay someone the whole path of fault finding, it's going to add up.

But what are the options? Spend $200 on a key that won't change anything or build a list of likely suspects and check each one , crossing off those that pass?

Air, fuel, spark = combustion. I think we can be safe on air, is fuel arriving? Is it at the correct pressure?  If so then that leaves ignition?

Can the pump be heard at key on? It lives under the rear seat cushion , in the centre?

 I'll  wait and see what Gary suggests, it's tough I know relying on others and trusting they won't rip you off.

[tw2005]

Only thing my receipt says is 'Fuel Injector & System Cleaner' - so not sure?

I would think with 100000K the fuel filter should have been done by now, I'd have to find a schedule.

anyway, I'm at and end of  ideas guessing for now. Throwing random parts at it is an expensive process, one positive is now it's reliably broken it should be able to be fault found more accurately because something in the process is missing and a decent tech should be able to pinpoint it.

[tw2005]

Quick youtube on the fuel filter, not suggesting DIY unless you know what your doing.

Personally in this video, I would not be using a power tool near fuel vapour to undo the bolts.

Hyundai I30 Petrol Intank Fuel Filter Replacement - YouTube

[nzenigma]

Thanks Gerard, after a long day I glanced at Christy the Ball and immediately was drawn within.

Mate spot on, none of the symptoms say key , or antennae ring.

When the key is turned to IGN there should be a "hum" for about 2 seconds as the fuel pump pressures the injectors etc. Is that evident?

Irrespective, pulling the hose off the filter should indicate that fuel is arriving at the motor. Do you have fuel?

If you have fuel, the next move is to measure primary and secondary volts at the ignition coil..

Fuel and Spark are the primary ingredients for a running petrol motor. Do they exist?

The dead sound makes me think it is one or the other.

However, it could be our old friend, the crank sensor. Remember he does not always exhibit a code.

These are just basics to check.  But may need to move to something else. Good luck G

[nzenigma]

I've been told I might need to get a new key programmed as it could be an immobiliser issue - would like to just get some advice on this

In the light of day, I think that I should reinforce Gerard's hope that you stay away from the "new Key dude".

This sort of guy has thought bubbles and has little Knowledge about the immobiliser.
 The chip in the key is basically inert. It does not stop, start or change into a gremlin.
The aerial around the ignition lock reads it.
That aerial can go open circuit intermittently ( a fault). But your video is showing it to be functioning and reading correctly.

[Dazzler]

Thanks for helping Ashey guys! Awesome service. Hopefully with all that info she won't get ripped off. 

@Ash2019 it might be a good idea to refer whoever you talk to next to this thread or print out the suggestions to share wit them. Time = money.

My number one Daughter is called Ashley (spelt the same way) so I have a vested interest in you getting a good result! 

[Ash2019]

Hi everyone,

Just wanted to give you an update, wiring under the engine was fried and needed a new fuel pump, have added the breakdown details below!

Thanks for all your help!

[Dazzler]

Great! Thanks so much for the update! 

  Was that about $1250 all up? 

[tw2005]

Hi everyone,

Just wanted to give you an update, wiring under the engine was fried and needed a new fuel pump, have added the breakdown details below!

Thanks for all your help!

Thanks for getting back.
Glad it's fixed, shame about the invoice, far out   would have been great to see some images but that's difficult with a repairer involved.

@nzenigma  I'm curious about the burnt wiring at bottom of fuse box and the high current draw. Would have been nice if that value was recorded. The Fuel pump has a 15Amp fuse I would have thought would blow on overcurrent.



Not sure how hard it would be but if pump motor was defective, there are kits available from Bosch at about 10% of that OEM unit. at least with a compltete unit it has new filter and sender unit.

Genuine BOSCH Main Inline Fuel Pump 0986580979 universal EFP007 | eBay



311111G500 is the OEM pump motor



Filter Unit
31910-2H000

[nzenigma]

@tw2005  Hi Gerard, seems like you and Crissy Ball were on the money. 

Yes that burnt wire at the fuse is puzzling. Why only there?

How about scenario 2;  Mechanic does all the right checks, finds pump not working.
Measures volts with digital meter and with connector off pump and it reads 12volts. ( 0 current situation)
 Buys in new pump, fits it and finds it does not work.
THEN he checks connector  on the pump and realises that he has zero-low volts.
Goes back along the line and finds corroded and or burnt fuse connection.
Why only burnt at fuse and not at the source of the short circuit?
Verdict, carbon tracking at the fuse caused the problem , at first intermittent, then kaput.

 

[tw2005]

@tw2005  Hi Gerard, seems like you and Crissy Ball were on the money. 

Yes that burnt wire at the fuse is puzzling. Why only there?

How about scenario 2;  Mechanic does all the right checks, finds pump not working.
Measures volts with digital meter and with connector off pump and it reads 12volts. ( 0 current situation)
 Buys in new pump, fits it and finds it does not work.
THEN he checks connector  on the pump and realises that he has zero-low volts.
Goes back along the line and finds corroded and or burnt fuse connection.
Why only burnt at fuse and not at the source of the short circuit?
Verdict, carbon tracking at the fuse caused the problem , at first intermittent, then kaput.

 

@nzenigma The way it's written, it implies the burnt / damaged wiring is under the engine bay fuse box. hard to imagine, the harness in terminated into a large sockets, then the top module plugs into those and then all the relays and fuses plug into that.

Hard to judge without seeing it. It's interesting to follow the fault finding process. I can understand plugging in the OBD2, the hour charge for that is rich. That in total should cover the fault finding,I don't know about you but a continuous crank and no fire, lifting the seat and listening / checking the pump would be a very quick check , no equipment required and one of my first check points.

4 hours labour to remove, refit and reterminate. Slow going

also discovered a fault code can trigger is it occurs on the control side, P0230

[nzenigma]

@tw2005  Hi Gerard, seems like you and Crissy Ball were on the money. 

Yes that burnt wire at the fuse is puzzling. Why only there?

How about scenario 2;  Mechanic does all the right checks, finds pump not working.
Measures volts with digital meter and with connector off pump and it reads 12volts. ( 0 current situation)
 Buys in new pump, fits it and finds it does not work.
THEN he checks connector  on the pump and realises that he has zero-low volts.
Goes back along the line and finds corroded and or burnt fuse connection.
Why only burnt at fuse and not at the source of the short circuit?
Verdict, carbon tracking at the fuse caused the problem , at first intermittent, then kaput.

 

@nzenigma The way it's written, it implies the burnt / damaged wiring is under the engine bay fuse box. hard to imagine, the harness in terminated into a large sockets, then the top module plugs into those and then all the relays and fuses plug into that.

Hard to judge without seeing it. It's interesting to follow the fault finding process. I can understand plugging in the OBD2, the hour charge for that is rich. That in total should cover the fault finding,I don't know about you but a continuous crank and no fire, lifting the seat and listening / checking the pump would be a very quick check , no equipment required and one of my first check points.

4 hours labour to remove, refit and reterminate. Slow going

also discovered a fault code can trigger is it occurs on the control side, P0230

Mate, As we wade through the BS, as usual. 

Actually, you can hear the pump prime while still in the drivers seat.
The scanner charge ...wow must be paying off a beauty.
Was the pump even replaced? 
 Or just added $680 to the bill.

Which ever way it goes, the pumps are as reliable as; and  even if it was faulty, no way one drawing a high current at the back of the car, is going to ONLY cook a terminal at the front.

Mind you, I'm just a ball gazer.