[GaKu]

The rear right wheel has been making an intermittent squealing noise only heard at slow speeds just when I start driving and disappears after a while. Also, driving forward after having driven in reverse also causes a slight noise (like donk) as if something was stuck

I got this investigated last week while getting the oil changed and the mechanic said it was due to the handbrake shoes that were out of place due to the handbrake cables that were not connected to it properly and that the fix is to replace the entire brake system including discs, pads, brake shoes and handbrake cables.

He is a trusty mechanic but I fail to understand why can't only the drums and cables be replaced. He says that won't solve the problem. Can someone supply with a diagram of how these brakes are assembled so I can understand the problem better?

Thanks..

[tw2005]

[BrendanP]

I had problems with the lever that connects the handbrake cable to the mechanism that pushes the brake shoes apart when you pull on the handbrake lever. This lever can seize up due to corrosion, so the brake shoe doesn't spring back. This results in the brake lining wearing away, and wearing a groove on the inside of the brake disc/drum. If the brake shoes wear down to the metal there will be a horrid grating sound. I replaced the brake discs, shoes, springs, etc, after taking the lever from the brakes, cleaning off the corrosion, and greasing it to free it up. I'd recommend Delphi parts. I don't think it's necessary to replace the handbrake cables, but if you want the lever fitted in the brake as a spare part, Hyundai only supply it as part of the cable assembly (expensive). You can tell if this mechanism starts to seize up because the handbrake becomes quite slack, then you have to strip down the brake, remove the lever, clear it up and re-grease. Also check the slider pins in the brake caliper. If they start to seize up, the pads wear unevenly, and if they wear down to the backing plate, you will hear the grating noise when using the brakes. 3rd party replacement slider pins aren't expensive, so worth changing if the existing ones show signs of corrosion. I had a forum post with a step by step description of replacing the rear brakes, if you find it, it may be of help if you choose to do the job yourself.

[BrendanP]

Looking at the diagram previously posted, it's the operating lever, part number 2, that is the problem.

[tw2005]

I had problems with the lever that connects the handbrake cable to the mechanism that pushes the brake shoes apart when you pull on the handbrake lever. This lever can seize up due to corrosion, so the brake shoe doesn't spring back. This results in the brake lining wearing away, and wearing a groove on the inside of the brake disc/drum. If the brake shoes wear down to the metal there will be a horrid grating sound. I replaced the brake discs, shoes, springs, etc, after taking the lever from the brakes, cleaning off the corrosion, and greasing it to free it up. I'd recommend Delphi parts. I don't think it's necessary to replace the handbrake cables, but if you want the lever fitted in the brake as a spare part, Hyundai only supply it as part of the cable assembly (expensive). You can tell if this mechanism starts to seize up because the handbrake becomes quite slack, then you have to strip down the brake, remove the lever, clear it up and re-grease. Also check the slider pins in the brake caliper. If they start to seize up, the pads wear unevenly, and if they wear down to the backing plate, you will hear the grating noise when using the brakes. 3rd party replacement slider pins aren't expensive, so worth changing if the existing ones show signs of corrosion. I had a forum post with a step by step description of replacing the rear brakes, if you find it, it may be of help if you choose to do the job yourself.

  Which lever?

58257-1H000

[tw2005]

Mechanic probably thinking the entire assembly may be a better long term solution, also  may simplify installation and save labour time but the individual parts can be had . If it's badly corroded then you get a new backing plate as well.

58270-1H000 Right side

Auto Part Item View : 582501H000 (58250-1H000) BRAKE ASSY-PARKING RR for HYUNDAI / KIA i30 ELANTRA TOURING



58250-1H000 left side

Auto Part Item View : 582501H000 (58250-1H000) BRAKE ASSY-PARKING RR for HYUNDAI / KIA i30 ELANTRA TOURING

[BrendanP]

Yep, that's the baby. I asked at my Hyundai dealer in the UK and they told me that part wasn't available on it's own. It was only sold as part of a complete cable assembly.

[tw2005]

Yep, that's the baby. I asked at my Hyundai dealer in the UK and they told me that part wasn't available on it's own. It was only sold as part of a complete cable assembly.

Who knows, weird, it's listed in the breakdown. you can certainly order it from Koraps. Maybe they don't export all the parts but I don't see how that is part of the cable assembly since it's just the eye of the cable that hooks onto that lever unless it was another part of the cable that needed replacing, or maybe they were feeding you BS.

[tw2005]

58350-1HA00  $41 USD

Auto Part Item View : 583501HA00 (58350-1HA00) SHOE KIT-PARKING BRAKE for HYUNDAI / KIA i30 ELANTRA TOURING


58255-1G300 $2.20

Auto Part Item View : 582551G300 (58255-1G300) SPRING-SHOE RETURN LWR for HYUNDAI / KIA RIO 05-11



58268-1D000  USD 3.00

Auto Part Item View : 582681D000 (58268-1D000) SPRING-SHOE RETURN A for HYUNDAI / KIA RONDO CARENS 06-



58253-1G300 left adjuster USD 4.90

Auto Part Item View : 582531G300 (58253-1G300) ADJUSTER ASSY-LH for HYUNDAI / KIA RIO 05-11



58254-1G300 right adjuster

Auto Part Item View : 582541G300 (58254-1G300) ADJUSTER ASSY-RH for HYUNDAI / KIA RIO 05-11



58323-1H000 USD 1.20

Auto Part Item View : 583231H000 (58323-1H000) PIN-SHOE HOLD DOWN for HYUNDAI / KIA i30 ELANTRA TOURING



58272-1G300 USD 2.20

Auto Part Item View : 582721G300 (58272-1G300) SPRING-SHOE HOLD DOWN for HYUNDAI / KIA RIO 05-11



58252-1H000 USD 21.50

Auto Part Item View : 582521H000 (58252-1H000) PLATE ASSY-RR BRAKE BACK RH for HYUNDAI / KIA i30 ELANTRA TOURING



58251-1H000

[nzenigma]

Also wouldnt go off replacing everything, the brake shoes and drum will out last the car. Normally  only act when car is stationary. Drum brakes used as normal rear brakes are good for about 50- 100K miles.

@GaKu  you must have noticed if the brake was binding hard enough to wear the shoe and drum 

[GaKu]

Also wouldnt go off replacing everything, the brake shoes and drum will out last the car. Normally  only act when car is stationary. Drum brakes used as normal rear brakes are good for about 50- 100K miles.

@GaKu  you must have noticed if the brake was binding hard enough to wear the shoe and drum 

Well the noise would go away after a short drive.. Also it is not consistent, some days its loud and some days I don't hear anything.

[GaKu]

I had problems with the lever that connects the handbrake cable to the mechanism that pushes the brake shoes apart when you pull on the handbrake lever. This lever can seize up due to corrosion, so the brake shoe doesn't spring back. This results in the brake lining wearing away, and wearing a groove on the inside of the brake disc/drum. If the brake shoes wear down to the metal there will be a horrid grating sound. I replaced the brake discs, shoes, springs, etc, after taking the lever from the brakes, cleaning off the corrosion, and greasing it to free it up. I'd recommend Delphi parts. I don't think it's necessary to replace the handbrake cables, but if you want the lever fitted in the brake as a spare part, Hyundai only supply it as part of the cable assembly (expensive). You can tell if this mechanism starts to seize up because the handbrake becomes quite slack, then you have to strip down the brake, remove the lever, clear it up and re-grease. Also check the slider pins in the brake caliper. If they start to seize up, the pads wear unevenly, and if they wear down to the backing plate, you will hear the grating noise when using the brakes. 3rd party replacement slider pins aren't expensive, so worth changing if the existing ones show signs of corrosion. I had a forum post with a step by step description of replacing the rear brakes, if you find it, it may be of help if you choose to do the job yourself.

Thanks for the detailed info. I'm a novice when it comes to cars so will have to get this done by a mechanic. Have got estimates at 4500dkk using Hella pagid or 5000dkk using brembo.

[BrendanP]

The drum, of course, is integral to the rear disc, so it will wear down like any other brake disc. I changed the discs and pads on my car at about 89,000 miles, though I kept the original brake shoes. I then had to replace them again at about 145,000 miles, because the hand brake had become so slack. This is when I found the operating lever had seized up on the left side, and the brake shoes were worn down almost to the metal. So, I replaced the  discs, pads, shoes, springs, retaining clips. Judging by the thickness of the cables, I doubt they would ever need replacing unless corrosion sets in. Once the drum is back on, turn the  adjuster through the little hole until you can't turn the drum, then back it off by 4 clicks and check the drum can spin freely. Work the hand brake a few times to centre the drum, and repeat. Before starting, you should have already backed off the adjuster under the cover between the front seats.

Tighten up the adjuster until it takes 22kg of force  to pull the lever up  7 clicks. Luggage scales come in handy! The equalising bar that pulls on the cables should be straight. when the handbrake is applied.

If you notice the handbrake getting slack, so it starts pulling up 9 or 10 clicks, lift the little cover between the seats and look at the equalising bar. It's probably now sitting at an angle, and the side which points towards the front of the car is the side where the operating lever has seized up. When everything is working properly, the wear on the brake shoes should be negligible, and the tension on the handbrake shouldn't change that much over time.

[BrendanP]

The first time I changed my rear discs and pads, I used Brembo, but I was disappointed. The discs wore quite fast and scored quite easily. The next time I used Delphi parts and they seem to be lasting much better. I used Bendix discs & pads on the front and they also seem to be lasting well.

In total, I spent about £90 on rear discs, shoes, disc pads and fitting kit. Obviously,  no labour costs, as I did it myself.

[GaKu]

The drum, of course, is integral to the rear disc, so it will wear down like any other brake disc. I changed the discs and pads on my car at about 89,000 miles, though I kept the original brake shoes. I then had to replace them again at about 145,000 miles, because the hand brake had become so slack. This is when I found the operating lever had seized up on the left side, and the brake shoes were worn down almost to the metal. So, I replaced the  discs, pads, shoes, springs, retaining clips. Judging by the thickness of the cables, I doubt they would ever need replacing unless corrosion sets in. Once the drum is back on, turn the  adjuster through the little hole until you can't turn the drum, then back it off by 4 clicks and check the drum can spin freely. Work the hand brake a few times to centre the drum, and repeat. Before starting, you should have already backed off the adjuster under the cover between the front seats.

Tighten up the adjuster until it takes 22kg of force  to pull the lever up  7 clicks. Luggage scales come in handy! The equalising bar that pulls on the cables should be straight. when the handbrake is applied.

If you notice the handbrake getting slack, so it starts pulling up 9 or 10 clicks, lift the little cover between the seats and look at the equalising bar. It's probably now sitting at an angle, and the side which points towards the front of the car is the side where the operating lever has seized up. When everything is working properly, the wear on the brake shoes should be negligible, and the tension on the handbrake shouldn't change that much over time.

I was not aware of the drum being integral to the disc hence the doubts. I am skeptical of changing the cables too. Will probably get a second opinion.

[sundiz]

Personally I would change the discs, pads and hand brake shoes. Hand brake shoes usually come with all the springs and clips you need. Only thing you probably need to fix is the hand brake linkage which connects the cable to the shoes. That tends to freeze due rust and dirt. Little bit of wd40 and hammering on the work bench did the trick for me. After I got it loose again I cleaned the part with metal brush and lubricated it with brake grease. Works like a charm now.

[BrendanP]

I can only speak for the UK, but here the brake shoes don't come with anything. To get the springs and retaining pins, you need to buy a fitting kit separately. I paid £9-11 for the fitting kit (Delphi parts) and about £20 for the shoes.

[Paolo39]

Yep, that's the baby. I asked at my Hyundai dealer in the UK and they told me that part wasn't available on it's own. It was only sold as part of a complete cable assembly.

That is strange. I bought this part from Hyundai dealer in UK (SG Pietch).
Still available:
Genuine Hyundai i30 Hand/Parking Brake Lever Switch - 582571H000 | eBay

[Paolo39]

I can only speak for the UK, but here the brake shoes don't come with anything. To get the springs and retaining pins, you need to buy a fitting kit separately. I paid £9-11 for the fitting kit (Delphi parts) and about £20 for the shoes.

I bought recently Bosch parking brake shoes and it come with all accessories. I ordered from AutoDoc ( AUTODOC - online car parts store with over 1 million auto parts). The parts coming from Germany by DPD. The only drawback is that they may take two weeks to arrive. So plan ahead. Also sometimes Mister-Auto.co.uk have deals, if you need parts faster.

[GaKu]

Update :

I got the brakes inspected by another mechanic that runs runs his workshop all alone. He said everything was fine except the the brake shoes that were stuck and scraping the drums. A good cleaning and relubrication was all he said is required. Spent only half of what I would have otherwise.