[mrexcitement]

He Guys ,

Long time since my last post , i30 still going strong except for recently it has developed a weird oscillation that you feel through the whole car but mostly under medium to heavy acceleration , when coasting it's not there , if i accelerate gently you don't feel it.

It's an oscillation not a vibration , like when your wheel is out of balance but i feel no vibration through the steering wheel , you feel it through the whole car.

It only started about a month ago and it was after i accelerated very hard while turning 90 Deg left from stationary , there was a bit of wheelspin then it did this oscillation for the first time and has been doing it ever since.

I don't believe it is related to the 1500 - 2000 rpm vibration commonly mentioned as the car has just reached 190,000 kms and never did this before

I was hoping someone has experienced something similar and had found the problem , or some ideas where to start.

My thoughts were it could be the CV joints on the way out , problem with Auto transmission , engine mounts or possibly wheels out of balance (going to get a wheel alignment and balance soon to eliminate that)

I am doing it's 190,000 kms service this weekend and was going to go over the car then and hopefully see/find something.

Any of you knowledgeable fella's have any ideas ?

Also something else i'm curious about , when cold it starts no problem and very quickly but when the weather warms up it's not uncommon for it to take a while to start sometimes 2 times and when it does start there is white smoke out the exhaust for the first few seconds (i know this is unburnt diesel ) but it very rarely does it when cold. I have a brand new set of glow plugs i was going to fit but i don't think it will make a difference to the warm weather starting , any idea's ?

Cheers

[Dazzler]

Hi There,

Nice to hear from you. Shame it is with a problem. I thought maybe worn or damaged CV joint, but I would have thought that might cause some vibration in the steering. Have you tried to inspect the rubber boots around the CV's for tears or leakage.

Maybe you sort of flat spotted a tyre, but as you say no vibration through the steering wheel. 

A warm start issue with the Petrol Turbo SR was associated with dodgy injectors. Maybe a diesel injector cleaner additive might help with this issue. I know that is a very curved ball but my curved balls have worked before.. (excuse the french) 

[tw2005]

Have a good close look at the CV inner joints/boots for evidence of leakage. the longest shaft is the one most likely to wear out and vibrate if grease has escaped and the inner joint has wear.

If you're electric savvy and have a good multimeter you could do some basic checks on the glow circuit. You could confirm the voltage and the duration of the glow. You could also disconnect the metal strap that connects all the glows together to the power cable, then resistance check each glow individually. You may have 1 or 2 burnt out and open circuit.

From what I have read the glow time is proportional to the coolant temp so if the motor is warm the glow time is shorter and if you have a dud glow maybe that combo is enough to present the symptoms you describe.

Most advice given on glow removal is do it hot. If you shear off a glow you will be in an expensive spot of bother. I'd use a 1/4 inch drive to reduce the amount of torque applied and give you more feel when undoing or even a reversible  torque wrench to limit the torque applied  but I don't know what the limit should be.

I've done 4 motors now.  1 disaster when done cold and 3 success with hot motor.

@nzenigma Gary will pass out when he reads my waffle

The drivers side main mount which is hydraulic, if they can collapse and the bracket if it's resting hard on top of the mount that will send plenty of vibration through. I've replaced all mine once.

[mrexcitement]

Thanks  for the tips,

I will be servicing the car soon and i will check over all that has been mentioned.

Yes you could say i'm electronic savvy , it's my job , i'm an electronics tech.

Thanks again for the tips

[Jack Daniels]

I read on a Kia ceed forum that the engine mounts can require replacement sometimes. The Kia and hyundai mounts appear to be the same as far as I can see. The top one is easy to get at, how does it look.?Just rev the engine up down while you look at it, shouldn't be too much movement

[nzenigma]

@nzenigma Gary will pass out when he reads my waffle

The drivers side main mount which is hydraulic, if they can collapse and the bracket if it's resting hard on top of the mount that will send plenty of vibration through. I've replaced all mine once.

 cant remember this one, have probably looked at too many  or maybe I did pass out.

As usual, some OP has taken your advice but forgotten to give an update......................... ? ?? 

Seems that my advice about hot start and white smoke would have been a waste of time.

[Dazzler]

@mrexcitement

Any update, did you get this sorted?

[mrexcitement]

Hi Dazzler,

No i haven't been able to track this down , i think it's gradually getting worse.

I had my heavy home audio power amp sitting on the front passenger seat and the oscillations were making it shake left to right quite badly , which really brought home the level it's oscillating at.

I think over time i have been getting used to it.

So i think i will eventually have to fix it , or something will let go , which will make it very obvious.

Almost at 200000 km''s now and apart from this issue still going strong.

If i ever find it i will report back.

[Dazzler]

Cheers for that Mate. Take care 

[mrexcitement]

I have decided to replace both left and right drive shafts complete after doing some more research and comments like this "vibration disappears under no load" which is exactly what mine does.

I have just ordered them from Supercheap but probably won't have them for a week or 2.

Any tips /tricks for doing this ?

I have read through post 2010 FD i30 CW RH Driveshaft Replacement  and that seems to cover most things.

The only thing i am unsure of is removing the CV's from the transmission , it looks like you just need to get good leverage with a jimmy bar and it should just pop right out.

Is that correct ? nothing else holds it in place ?

I will report back as to how it went and also if it fixes my vibration.

Cheers

David

[tw2005]

I have decided to replace both left and right drive shafts complete after doing some more research and comments like this "vibration disappears under no load" which is exactly what mine does.

I have just ordered them from Supercheap but probably won't have them for a week or 2.

Any tips /tricks for doing this ?

I have read through post 2010 FD i30 CW RH Driveshaft Replacement  and that seems to cover most things.

The only thing i am unsure of is removing the CV's from the transmission , it looks like you just need to get good leverage with a jimmy bar and it should just pop right out.

Is that correct ? nothing else holds it in place ?

I will report back as to how it went and also if it fixes my vibration.

Cheers

David

Yes, may pay to drain the pan too as fluid is likey going to run out of the diff. I get my shafts though my local bearing shop , GSP at hugely reduced prices than Supercheap. Recent purchase for Santa fe.

RHF shaft

GSP $240
Wholesalae bearings $350

Bearing Shop

GSP $170
WB $150

REPCO, don't even bother

Trust you have a 32mm socket, large breaker bar, and torque wrench to do all up again

[nzenigma]

Also something else i'm curious about , when cold it starts no problem and very quickly but when the weather warms up it's not uncommon for it to take a while to start sometimes 2 times and when it does start there is white smoke out the exhaust for the first few seconds (i know this is unburnt diesel ) but it very rarely does it when cold. I have a brand new set of glow plugs i was going to fit but i don't think it will make a difference to the warm weather starting , any idea's ?

Cheers

The MAF  waveform,  among other things,  controls EGR  open/shut. Suggest you try MAF cleaner.,


How to Replace MAF Sensor 07-10 Hyundai Elantra - YouTube   this is only to show you the unit, no need to replace it

[tw2005]

I have decided to replace both left and right drive shafts complete after doing some more research and comments like this "vibration disappears under no load" which is exactly what mine does.

I have just ordered them from Supercheap but probably won't have them for a week or 2.

Any tips /tricks for doing this ?

I have read through post 2010 FD i30 CW RH Driveshaft Replacement  and that seems to cover most things.

The only thing i am unsure of is removing the CV's from the transmission , it looks like you just need to get good leverage with a jimmy bar and it should just pop right out.

Is that correct ? nothing else holds it in place ?

I will report back as to how it went and also if it fixes my vibration.

Cheers

David

Yes, may pay to drain the pan too as fluid is likey going to run out of the diff. I get my shafts though my local bearing shop , GSP at hugely reduced prices than Supercheap. Recent purchase for Santa fe.

RHF shaft

GSP $240
Wholesalae bearings $350

Bearing Shop

GSP $170
WB $150

REPCO, don't even bother

Trust you have a 32mm socket, large breaker bar, and torque wrench to do all up again

ACtually for i30 REPCO, if they are correct $230 a side, for Santa it was a lunatic $400-500, with one of their 25% off sales would be a good deal

[mrexcitement]

Cheers,

I paid $223 and $193 at supercheap , oh well.

I have everything except the breaker bar but i will pick one up.

I am just about to click over 200,00 kms so i am happy to replace them even if it doesn't fix it as i plan to keep it a while longer.

I'll also pick up some MAF cleaner , although we are back to cold weather now , so might be a while before i see a difference.

David

[tw2005]

Cheers,

I paid $223 and $193 at supercheap , oh well.

I have everything except the breaker bar but i will pick one up.

I am just about to click over 200,00 kms so i am happy to replace them even if it doesn't fix it as i plan to keep it a while longer.

I'll also pick up some MAF cleaner , although we are back to cold weather now , so might be a while before i see a difference.

David

get the 900mm

[mrexcitement]

Jees , i always get carried away when i start something.

I have now ordered the 4 engine/transmission mounts and enough Penrite trans fluid to do a full flush (12l) , might as well while i'm doing the drive shafts.

Also ordered the 2 rubber mounts for the plastic engine cover that always wear out as mine are stuffed.

I'll get the 900mm breaker bar.

[mrexcitement]

Hey tw2005 i found one of your old posts in regards to the hydraulic engine mount stating there was no gap as though it had collapsed , i just checked mine and there is no gap.

So i guess that means at least this mount is stuffed and could quite possibly be my vibration.

Now you have done a couple , what gap should there be on a good one when installed ?

Like i said i'm not bothered about what i will be replacing as i will keep her for a while and prefer preventative maintenance.

Looks like i am going to have everything by this weekend but i won't be doing it yet as i have other plans as i didn't expect to have the drive shafts for at least a week.

Cheers

[tw2005]

Hey tw2005 i found one of your old posts in regards to the hydraulic engine mount stating there was no gap as though it had collapsed , i just checked mine and there is no gap.

So i guess that means at least this mount is stuffed and could quite possibly be my vibration.

Now you have done a couple , what gap should there be on a good one when installed ?

Like i said i'm not bothered about what i will be replacing as i will keep her for a while and prefer preventative maintenance.

Looks like i am going to have everything by this weekend but i won't be doing it yet as i have other plans as i didn't expect to have the drive shafts for at least a week.

Cheers

Likely you just needed that one, any gap is good enough but I used Kelpro I think, and it has a substantial gap, 5 mm +   . I find there's always some vibration but greatly reduced now.

[mrexcitement]

I replaced the hydraulic engine mount and it's not my vibration , it did reduce quite a lot the vibrations at idle and starting.

I tried to replace the drive shafts but i couldn't remove the drive shaft from the hub , block of wood , hammer , lube and lots of swearing but no go.

Very frustrating as i had to put it back together without doing anything.

I have ordered a hub tool to push the shaft out and will now have to wait for it before having another go.

I am now pretty confident it is the drive shafts causing the vibration as when i removed the plastic cover from underneath the engine there was a large clump of grease in the middle of it , straight away i knew where that would be coming from after all the info you guys have provided me , sure enough the inner drive shaft boot has been oozing grease , so very good chance this is it.

I had initially checked them out as best i could but without removing the plastic tray , they looked ok , but you can't see the inner ones properly.

[nzenigma]

If you douse the spline with WD40 and drive it for a few days, the shaft should free up. Put the nut on loose with castellation facing inward, then smack the shaft with a lump hammer.

I havnt read all of tw's ramble  but I think he missed a useful tip. Set the car up on jack stands with front wheels off. Run car through gears and normal drive revs. If vib is present, remove one disc at a time, then both,  see if vib changes.

Also Kelpro products are so over , over, over priced , I wont buy them any more.

[mrexcitement]

Replaced the Drive shafts , did the wheel bearings while i had it apart.

Problem fixed , i never thought it was drive shafts from the way it was vibrating as i have had those go on old cars and it was completely different to them , oh well live and learn.

Thanks for all the help

Next up is to flush the auto which seems pretty straightforward.

Cheers

[nzenigma]

Thanks to you too. We always appreciate any  good or bad feedback.

Happy driving mate 

[Dazzler]

 

[Ozzibiker]

Replaced the Drive shafts , did the wheel bearings while i had it apart.

Problem fixed , i never thought it was drive shafts from the way it was vibrating as i have had those go on old cars and it was completely different to them , oh well live and learn.

Thanks for all the help

Next up is to flush the auto which seems pretty straightforward.

Cheers

I'll have to do this.
What special tools did you need? What is the hub tool?
Can you do it with wheel ramps, or do you need the wheels free?

Thanks.