[jazz]

Hi,
this is my first post here and first I want to take the opportunity to express my graditude to everyone here.
I read a lot of problems here but I have not quite found the solution to my problem.

I have a problem with my car Hyundai i30 1.4 crdi 2013 with 143000 km

The probem is that the DPF regeneration is taking place too often, around every 50km or less.
The fuel consumption is 7l per 100km no matter if its open road or in the city.
Also my oli level rises over the max mark 15 mm  in just 3000 to 4000 km.
Three times I have measured the amount of overfilled disel in oil and it is around 1.8 to 2 liters in just 4000km.

The car has no fault codes and works normally.
I went to various hyundai dealers 4 times and no one  can find any problem with it.
One of them said the I should check the injectors and diesel pump in a specialized shop which I did to and everithing checks fine.
A have also dozens of paper of the tests of injectors and everything is ok.

Now I suspect that the dpf is  clogged but I get no fault code of any kind. Also went to clean the dpf but they said that it is in good condition.
So now i'm stuck and don't know what to do besides changing oil and filters every 3000 to 4000 km.

One thing I did check on my own is the dpf differential pressure sensor.
On the signal wire when it is plugged in the dpf on the multimeter I have reading of  1.059v. When I unplug the hoses from the dpf  the reading changes to 1.023v.
I don't know if this is normal or not. All this is measured with the engine on idle.
I don't know what to do anymore. It seems no one in my country can fix this problem.

[sundiz]

That is a nasty issue. Most likely the rising oil level is caused by diesel mixing with the oil. Not good. Common issues that may cause that is leaking or faulty injectors. But if those are tested and found out to bee good, I would guess that the rising level is caused by the issue with dpf burns. How do you drive when the dpf starts the burn? High rpm highway drive would be most efficient during the burn. Dpf needs to be hot for efficient burn.

[jazz]

When I drive on highway  for 3 hours at 140 kph it is over  3000 rpm for at least 2 hours and it  should burn everything but I see that every 50km the dpf regeneration starts again.
I can tell because the current comsumption rises almost double and the car has lass power.  It takes almost 15 min on highway to finish and then after 50 km it starts again.

[jazz]

How often is normal that the regen of dpf takes place?
Does it have preprogrammed time intervals when it start regardless of the dpf state?

[sundiz]

It sure seems there is something wrong with the dpf. That kind of highway driving is best for the dpf. I'm not sure about hyundai, but some cars can "tell" how full the pdf filter is. I don't have access to electrical data of your model, but it would be nice to know what the voltage on the pressure sensor you mentionet should be. Nevertheless if the car has been maintained well, the pfd filter should last at least 2x that mileage.

Not sure if those fuel additives which claim to help dpf burn help. One might try disconnecting the battery for few hours. If it would reset some computer. But I would guess it will not help. Not sure about other parameters, but I believe the pfd pressure sensor is the one which triggers the computer to do the dpf burn. Something wrong with the pdf or with the pfd pressure sensor.

[sundiz]

How often is normal that the regen of dpf takes place?
Does it have preprogrammed time intervals when it start regardless of the dpf state?

No experience with Hyundai. But what I've heard the normal interval with other brands should be something like 300-500km, depending on what kind of driving you do.

[jazz]

I will test the voltage on the  pressure diferencial sensor  under load.
Then we will see if it is near 5 volts on the sensor  signal pin. If so that means it is blocked.

[tw2005]

At idle that would be normal, 1-1.2V on a brand new DPF according to the manual

1V represents 0 differential pressure,

 4.5V = 14.5 psi  , each increment of 0.35V represents an increase of 1.45 psi

[tw2005]

[tw2005]

ECM can calculate amount of the soot by using the DPS signal, vehicle mileage or simulation data. If the ECM determines the DPF is need to regenerate, it will perform "Regeneration Procedure" when the vehicle condition is corresponded with the predetermined one (Regeneration Mode).
To burn the soot, the ECM injects additional fuel in the cylinders during exhaust stroke (two Post Injection) and increases the exhaust gas temperature to burning temperature of the soot (above 600℃). At this time, the soot are burn and its ash remains in the DPF as a result of the combustion.
[Regeneration Mode]1. Mileage ＞ 1,000km
2. Engine Speed: 1,000 ~ 4,000rpm
3. Engine Load = About 0.7bar [8mg/st]
4. Vehicle Speed ＞ 5km/h
5. Engine Coolant Temperature ＞ 40℃
 

[jazz]

Thanks for the information you gave it is very useful to know all the values and conditions.
I borrowed from a friend a diagnostic tool delphi 1.50 and connected it to car.
For some reason when I set the i30 2013 it won't connect, but when i set the car to i20 2012 1.4 crdi then it connects
I have options for  service, see picture.
Also I attached some of the checks that are related with the dpf and exhaust temperature in 2 pdf files. One is the car running idle standing still and some measurments are taken with some throttle to see the difference.
The other pdf is under load and driving conditions driving uphill for 4 km.

What I noticed is when I  obsrved the data for example the last sucessful regeneration was 15 km ago but on the top of the hill it changed to zero without active regeneration.
Also the temperature in dpf goes over 600 celsius almost immediately when you accelerate uphill. Normal driving around 400C.
All this is live data.
The one thing that is unclear for me is this REGENERATION DEMOND and there is a number  1682 but it doesn't say is it mvolt or  mgram or something else.
I will test the sensor with multimeter under driving condition and post the results here.
Thanks a lot to everyone  for useful data and suggestions.

[tw2005]

data overload 

I'm thinking the demand is simply a counter and when it reaches a set value it triggers a burn. I wonder if it's worth doing a forced regen?  I've never done one but I did start one once and it elevates the engine RPM, also it needs to be done in an open area free of any debris under the car like long grass so you don't have a fire. It could run 45-60mins

[tw2005]

Oh and in the  manual it suggests all electrics are on to increase engine load, that's A/c, max fan, headlights, wipers(you'd have to lift them off the glass)

[tw2005]

i30 GD 1.4 CRDI 2012 oil RISE

[jazz]

Thanks for the link I have read it before.
In the meantime I have tested the differencial pressure sensor in driving conditions.
I connected the multimeter to the ground and sensor signal pin


Hyundai i30 1.4crdi dpf sensor test - YouTube

Considering the table from above i think the dpf is ok assuming that the pressure sensor is indicating the  correct value.
Here it is raining and I cannot connect the pump on the pressured side to measure if the pressure is correctly read by the sensor.   

[tw2005]

amazing, we're burning up in drought.  Nothing special there looks like it's good.  If it's running frequent regens, I don't know but I reckon run a forced regen. What have you got to loose apart from time and some fuel. Could it be  something in the ECU that is making it think it needs to complete a cycle? I don't know but that DPS outputs are certainly showing  the DPF must be clear

[jazz]

I will do a forced regen and then we will see if it's help.
Thanks for suggestions
Will report here if it has any influence

[tw2005]

I've got no experience dealing with these DPF s although I now have 2 vehicles with them , no issues so far. 

Just reading some generic info on the web.

Suggests after a forced  burn the oil and filter will need changing? maybe check the oil level prior to doing this and  be ready for an oil and filter change

Passive Regeneration
Passive regeneration takes place automatically, with no warning lights coming up on the dashboard.

It mainly occurs on highways, when the vehicle speed and exhaust temperature is high.

Depending on how the vehicle is used however, this may not be possible. Stop-start driving, or around town trips will not allow the exhaust to get up to temperature to carry out this regeneration.

Active Regeneration
Once the ECU reads the soot loading has reached a certain limit (usually around 45%), it will instigate what is known as post combustion fuel injection.

This procedure injects a small amount of fuel into the engine after the main combustion cycle, to increase the temperature in the exhaust and trigger the regeneration process.

The ECU will usually flash the DPF light on the dashboard to alert the driver that the regeneration process is in progress.

Depending on your vehicle, you will need to keep your vehicle over a certain speed and engine RPM until the light has stopped flashing.

The procedure should be covered in your owner’s handbook, but a round guide is to keep the engine speed over 2,000RPM and the vehicle speed over 60km/h.

Depending on the saturation level, this process may take anywhere from 5 minutes up to 25 minutes.

You may notice increased fuel consumption, the cooling fans running constantly and a slight acrid smell from the vehicle during this period. This is normal, as the exhaust temperature reaches over 600 degrees to burn off the particles.

If the process is interrupted and the regeneration cannot be completed, the ECU will activate ‘Reduced Power Mode’ or ‘Limp Home’ mode.

This will limit power to prevent any damage to the engine or exhaust systems.

The DPF and Engine warning lights will both come on when the vehicle enters this mode.

Forced Regeneration
If the DPF and Engine warning lights come on, the final regeneration will need to be completed.

This is known as a forced regeneration.

The vehicle will need to be driven carefully or towed down to a manufacturer dealership to have the DPF manually regenerated.

This process is carried out by connecting a diagnostic scan tool to the vehicle and forcing the vehicle to carry out a regeneration.

This can be a costly exercise as the oil and oil filter will require changing after the service has been completed. This is due to the extra fuel that is added after the combustion cycle, as some of it works its way into the sump, and dilutes the oil.

[tw2005]

What can prevent normal regeneration taking place?

Frequent short journeys, such as stop-start city driving, that do not allow the engine to reach correct operating temperature
Using the wrong oil type – DPF equipped vehicles require oil of a ‘low Ash, low Sulphur’ grade, to prevent excess build-up occurring
An issue with another emissions control device, such as the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system, or a problem with the inlet or fuel systems
Low fuel level – most vehicles will not carry out a regeneration cycle if the fuel level is under ¼ of a tank
Overdue service interval – low oil quality or level will prevent regeneration from occurring
Engine warning light on – a warning light or a diagnostic trouble code stored in the ECU may prevent regeneration

[jazz]

Forced regeneration is completed.
It did take around 20min and it is fully automated
The instructions are clear and very easy to follow.
In short when activated,  the car goes to 2000 rpm and hold it there for around 20 min  and then when it is finished it drop's to idle.
That's it
Now I have to wait to see the effect .
The oil is at normal level

[jazz]

Still the same problem after 50 km regen started consumption rises car has less power.
No fault codes the differential pressure sensor is in same state as it was in the last video from above.
I don't know what to do any more.

[tw2005]

Still the same problem after 50 km regen started consumption rises car has less power.
No fault codes the differential pressure sensor is in same state as it was in the last video from above.
I don't know what to do any more.

Neither do I except there's only one part that's making this decision and that's the ECU. Software bug? Maybe time to write some letter to Hyundai in hope they offer assistance

[jazz]

I will try again to contact the local hyundai dealer  and show all what I found but again if there is no fault code then they say that there is nothing to repair.
When I told them my oli rises over 10 mm in just 3000km they said that is because of failed regeneration attempts.
And again they take around 50 euro just to check it on the computer and everything checks fine and that's it.
Last time I was there they said that i should come back when I have check engine light on.
I will try to get some useful information and I will post it here regarding this issue.
Thank you all for your help

[tw2005]

I will try again to contact the local hyundai dealer  and show all what I found but again if there is no fault code then they say that there is nothing to repair.
When I told them my oli rises over 10 mm in just 3000km they said that is because of failed regeneration attempts.
And again they take around 50 euro just to check it on the computer and everything checks fine and that's it.
Last time I was there they said that i should come back when I have check engine light on.
I will try to get some useful information and I will post it here regarding this issue.
Thank you all for your help

That's why I would write a letter to Hyundai itself not the dealer outlining everything done. Just because there's no fault code means squat. I got a surging D4EA diesel and it has no codes. that's just todays standard of dealer workshop who primarily does routine servicing .

 I remember being  told a story once with a gut who had a mitsubishi with a dead spot.  usual story no codes no fault, blah blah blah. In the end they data recorded his vehicle and he managed to drive it to cause a particular issue. I was told it resulted in a software upgrade being made and distributed.

[jazz]

Today I travelled 300km to be with my relatives for the holidays.
Around 280km was on the highway.
As usual the dpf turned on almost immediately then I came up with an idea.
I stopped on the first gas station and disconnected the differential  pressure sensor.
I started the engine and drove 250 km on highway around 145km/h with no fault code and NO REGEN.
And now i started the car with disconnected  differential pressure sensor and now I have blinking check code light which I checked with a small obd scan tool and the code is P2455 which is dpf sensor signal high because it is disconnected.
Now I will order this differential pressure sensor and change it may be this helps.
I will also contact Hyundai to see what they have to say.

[Dazzler]

Sounds promising. Keep us posted on the long term result please. 

[Surferdude]

I can only offer you my support in this problem, jazz.
I have nothing constructive to suggest.

But, may I say,from a safe distance  , I am enjoying this saga as much as any mystery novel. 

[Paolo39]

I have read through and I have one question:

-does the engine consumes oil and if it does, how much?
- does the injectors were tested for leakage?

DPF could be clogging from many reasons.

[jazz]

The injectors are tested and are good.
I don't know if the engine consumes  oil since the oil level keeps rising. There is no smoke coming out of the exhaust.
The interesting thing is that even with the disconnected pressure sensor the regen started first after 450km one time and then after 100km again.
What else can trigger the regen apart from the differential pressure sensor?
The car with disconnected  differencial pressure sensor runs with no problems for now.
Still waiting for answer from Hyundai.
Since I disconnected the sensor the consumption has dropped and oil rise has stopped too.

[Paolo39]

The injectors are tested and are good.
I don't know if the engine consumes  oil since the oil level keeps rising. There is no smoke coming out of the exhaust.
The interesting thing is that even with the disconnected pressure sensor the regen started first after 450km one time and then after 100km again.
What else can trigger the regen apart from the differential pressure sensor?
The car with disconnected  differencial pressure sensor runs with no problems for now.
Still waiting for answer from Hyundai.
Since I disconnected the sensor the consumption has dropped and oil rise has stopped too.

Raising oil level could be due to regen being ON so frequently. During regen ECU is dumping additional amount of fuel into cylinders to get to DPF and burn all the particulates. If your oil piston rings are worn, that is.

How the injectors were checked?

If the injectors are fine, the other issue could be that turbo is leaking oil and excess of oil ends up burning in engine and clogging DPF. Check intercooler for oil.

Also I would check MAF sensor, is it showing correct amount of air going into cylinders. Showing too much air going into, results in more fuel in cylinders, resulting more incomplete burn fuels going through DPF.

I would first look to chemically clean DPF.
I would really consider looking for good Diesel Engine specialist to pinpoint this issue.