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What brands and compounds have you had experience in using?
Carib,Directional tyres have a tread pattern like an arrow head (or the bow of a boat). Have a look at the two pics in the other topic and they are both directional.They will also have an arrow on the sidewall marking the "Direction of Rotation".I'll pull up some pics later as examples.
Quote from: surferdude on May 28, 2010, 23:38:11Carib,Directional tyres have a tread pattern like an arrow head (or the bow of a boat). Have a look at the two pics in the other topic and they are both directional.They will also have an arrow on the sidewall marking the "Direction of Rotation".I'll pull up some pics later as examples.Thanks, surferdude.Waiting for your pictures.carib
Thanks for that surferdude, yes the question was aimed at you [b]Mutley, your post has too many questions in it Only joking. They are valid and interesting comments but they'll take some answering, so please bear with me.[/b]What tyres do you recommend for good wet and dry grip, low road noise and reasonable life? I don't like tramlining either!! My Dunlop Sports did that about 60% into their life.This is very complex. Let's answer the easy bit first. "Tramlining" or a tendency to dart around when the car should be tracking straight is the result of the tyre wanting to follow any imperfections in road surface. If it happened part way through the life of the tyre it was due to uneven wear, not the tyre's design. So this highlights the need for care of your tyres through balance and alignment at regular intervals. Most tyre retail chains in Australia these days offer "After Sales Service" if you buy in sets of 4/5. Generally the balance and rotation (this only if needed IMO) would be carried out FOC usually at 10,000klm intervals. And you pay for the wheel alignment. Just to clarify the above it's only the rotation which I'm referring to as only if required. You should certainly do the balances.I have used Dunlop Sport 3000A and Toyo Proxes 4 and have loved both for grip. What type of car(s)? Were the 3000As on an XR6? They are a pretty good tyre. Haven't had much to do with the Proxes 4 apart from some feedback about road noise. But they have an army of followers.Not a fan of Goodyear F1's....had an accident cos of them (not grippy enough in the wet)A most amazing situation. I'd love to know all the circumstances to this. Also was it the original F1 or the F1 GSD3? Both have literally blitzed all comers in magazine testing in both Europe and Australia over the years. I've only driven on them in testing by Ian Luff at Oran Park Raceway in Sydney. On that occasion we had them squealing in the wet on the skid pan and a whole host of absolutely mad driving tyres dealers couldn't create a lose.. I hear the Dunlop sport Maxx is good. PPretty good on smaller cars I beleiveeople rave about the Bridgestone Adrenalins but I hear they are a little noisy? The Bridgestone Potenza RE050 I hear are a good compromise for my conditions. Also hear the Toyo R1R's are very grippy.I was very happy with my Toyo Proxes 4, very happy. Only thing I can think of that may affect my buying these for the i30 is that I had them at 42psi front and 44psi rear as this is where their optimal pressure was at. Don't really want them that hard in the i30.Again, what sort of car? Shouldn't be necessary on a Hyundai i30 IMO.
Here's an interesting one Trev. We had 2001 Nissan Pulsar Sedan for about 4 years and after a couple of years we replaced the two front tyres with Goodyear Eco 3 I think they were (supposed to have Silica technology) anyway to cut a long story short.. the Wife hated the feel of them.. She said it felt like they were sittin on the road not gripping to it.. The rears were the original tyres (Bridgestone I think) so I switched them to the front and she was happy (as she was ever going to be.. )Can you explain that??
trev,do you know where bob jane has his own tyre brands made.?
im running a high performace version of the zenon and its made in malasia,noisy tyres.
Dazz, there was an Eagle NCT 3, 70 series. Think it was made in NZ but it certainly didn't have silica technology. And it was very much a budget tyre.Also, maybe the GT3 but it also didn't have silica although it featured "bubble blade" technology which was supposed to give similar benefits without the cost.Pretty much a "fill-in" in the Australian range.
My car has the 15" Hankooks on it. BTW. I believe (not sure) that Kumho and Hankook have a similar business link to Hyundai and Kia. I rotated them at 9,000 klm, just measured them today at 9,960 klm and the ones which were on the front have 5 mm left (start at 8) and the rears which are now on the front have 6 mm left. I find them "predictable" in the wet. By that I mean the car retains its balance in corners. Not too much understeer or oversteer even when pushed.They are noisy though.
Trev,this may be off topic but I'm wondering whats the best way to store a set of new tyres. [still on steel rims and inflated] they are off of my hatch as i purchased aftermarket mags and tyres 100kms after i bought my hatch.I'm going to use the original tyres as a replacement on the wife's cw when she needs new tyres.I've got the set of 4 stacked on top of eachother in my shed.[stacked sidewall to sidewall in a pile] should i just sell the tyres and bye new ones when the time comes or is it OK to safely store and use them in a year or two.?