[logicweapon]

Hello all, I've Hyundai i30 2009 FD and I have gone through almost 5 pairs of LED signal lights but all of them hyper flashes  . I am confused as to why it is the case as there aren't any canbus for the headlights themselves. It is a BAU15S bulb and it'd be much appreciated if someone could advise me which is the right one to get.

As for the fog lights, it's using an H27 bulb. I want something similar to an Osram Fog Breaker but can't seem to find any manufacturer that produces it for the H27. Will any other type of bulb work as a similar substitute to the H27?

Thanks so much!

[CraigB]

Classic Car LED have been reliable with their indicator bulbs 1 x Canbus BRIGHT AMBER LED INDICATOR BULB No Hyperflash BAU15S PY21W – Classic Car LEDs Ltd

I've never bothered with the fog lights as you're not allowed to drive with them on where I live unless you're actually in fog which we rarely see here, the only H27 LED bulbs I can find are the JW Speaker brand https://www.blingworkauto.com.au/999881

Keep in mind that if you use white LED's in fog you'll probably blind yourself with light being reflected back at you, yellow to warm white light is far superior in fog situations.

[logicweapon]

I've bought the signal light using your link. Fingers crossed it'll work! 

As for the fog lights, I guess I'll have to find the stock Phillips bulb as a replacement, little odd that there's a lack of H27 variants around. Thanks for the reply!

[CraigB]

Lets hope they do   

I've used two different versions of Classic Cars indicator bulbs and they both worked fine, only changed out the first bulbs as they were way to bright at 1500 lumen each

[The Gonz]

Hyperflashing has nothing to do with CANBUS, and it's tiring how many times people seem to associate this incorrectly. 

The LEDs draw so little current that the flasher unit under the steering column doesn't get enough load to flash slowly. Swap out the 3-pin bi-metal type flasher unit for an electronic one (about $2 on eBay) and you can have as many LEDs as you like with no dramas.

[The Gonz]

OK, time for a little education:

CANBUS (Controller Area Network Bus) is a protocol by which smart devices in your car communicate with each other on the vehicle wired network (bus) without the use of a host computer. Think of it as the vehicle wired equivalent of your home wireless smart devices. It is message based, so an LED globe, even when advertised as CANBUS compatible, is not a CANBUS device.

Hyperflashing: When incandescent globes glow, they are consuming current that heats the filament hot enough to produce light. Home incandescent globes on AC power are doing the same thing. Many of us have swapped out our home globes for 240V AC (in Australia) LEDs because we can enjoy a greatly reduced current draw,  due to the efficiency of LEDs is in producing far less waste heat in the process of illumination. This significantly reduced current draw is also felt in the car system, albeit at 12V DC.

Flasher units in cars designed for incandescent globes are rather basic designs resembling relays and consisting of a pair of springy metal elements as a switching element. The elements oscillate between cooled and heated states, thanks to the current generating the heat - making and breaking contact at 1 -2 cycles per second.

This is simple electro-mechanical device. The cycle of heating and cooling continues throughout your period of using the indicators.

When using LEDs, the current might be as little as 5% of the expected, resulting in a noticeably different timing cycle. Many will believe this a a deliberate 'smart' feature, typically flashing at about twice the rate - what we describe as 'hyperflashing' - and while it is useful to detect a blown globe, it is probably an unintended symptom. The maths will tell you: when one of your two globes blows, you have half the current, resulting in twice the rate.

So, next time you see 'anti-hyperflashing' or 'CANBUS compatible' LEDs advertised for sale, just remember that they come with a big load resistor that will chew up all the current you would have saved and dissipates it as heat, so you get no efficiency improvement. You are far better off getting a basic simple unpretentious LED replacement and replace your flasher unit for a cheap electronic type (incorporating a semiconductor with a fixed cycle period) that will not change its flash cycle depending on load current - only then will be running a more efficient and cooler vehicle.

[CraigB]

Hi Gonz, I understand what a vehicles Canbus system is though with the amount of different LED's used all with varying current draw depending on type of LED used and brightness to which I've seen vehicles even with LED flashers also hyper flash, tried this on my brothers Amarok and it refuses to work correctly.

Once the LED flasher is installed with standard LED bulbs the cars Canbus system detects a fault, put the normal flasher back in combined with the Classic Car indicators and it works perfect.

Sometimes it's better to use a premium LED bulb with inbuilt resistors than trying make cheap LED's work, a lot also depends on how fussy each vehicles Canbus system is.

There are also Flashers that have a variable setting though I've never experimented with these, most 3rd party flashers are quite cheap and I'd rather not risk a fire so I stick with the factory flasher and a premium bulb

[The Gonz]

Hi, Craig.

Once the LED flasher is installed with standard LED bulbs the cars Canbus system detects a fault, put the normal flasher back in combined with the Classic Car indicators and it works perfect.

This is for an 2009 FD like mine. No CANBUS.

Sometimes it's better to use a premium LED bulb with inbuilt resistors than trying make cheap LED's work, a lot also depends on how fussy each vehicles Canbus system is.

No CANBUS.

There are also Flashers that have a variable setting though I've never experimented with these

My electronic LED flasher is the variable type, works fine, set and forget.

most 3rd party flashers are quite cheap and I'd rather not risk a fire so I stick with the factory flasher and a premium bulb

Lower currents, no moving metal elements arcing, less risk of fire than with a standard flasher.

[CraigB]

Thanks Gonz

I’ll have to test one of those variable type flashers and see how they work in mine, might get the best of both working harmoniously...better bulb with lower current

I’ll make that my next task once I finish modifying the Enfield

[The Gonz]

I’ll make that my next task once I finish modifying the Enfield

Enfield?


  I'm guessing yours has two wheels.

[CraigB]

I'm guessing yours has two wheels.

Yep but I could use one of those to persuade dealers for a better quote 

[logicweapon]

Thank you for the detailed explanation about this. This is all new to me and it’s a good start for me to learn about these technical details about my i30.  I’ve a question, if I were to replace the flasher relay, what’d be the ideal model for it? I’m keen on doing this by myself. I’ve seen links where most of the relays are of three pin legs and stating it’d work on motorcycles I’m not sure it’d be the same though.

[The Gonz]

what’d be the ideal model for it?

12V 3-Pin LED Adjustable Car Flasher Flash Relay For Turn Signal Light CF13 BZ6 | eBay