[mbeari30]

Hey guys

Hoping someone else has done this procedure and can help out.

I'm still having issues getting the fuel filter back on.

Has anyone done this in a 2017 i30SR?

This is where I'm up to. I have 3 screws left but they just don't sit flush. It's such a tight fit and the screws are quite short.

[TerryT]

Hi mbeari30.

I don’t know the answer for sure, but if you have the time to clarify some points…

So, there are 10 setscrews that secure the fuel filter assembly.
 
The 7 dark hex setscrews numbered #1~#7 are oem, yes?

You aren’t using the oem setscrews for holes #8~10 because the hex heads/threads are damaged (or are lost), yes?

When you started screwing in the non-oem silver crosshead screw (#9) it wouldn't "take" and you couldn’t tighten it down (and #8 & #10 are the same), yes?

Apologies, but because I don’t know you or your level of mechanical experience forgive me if I ask some very basic questions.

Are the hex setscrews #1~7 loose enough to give the plate sufficient wiggle room to move the plate around to better align holes #8~#10?

If the hex setscrews #1~7 are ‘loose’, do you know for sure that the threads in holes #8~10 are not damaged? (Unlikely it would be three, but not impossible).
 
One sure way to tell is to remove the metal holding plate and gently try screwing one of the oem hex setscrews into holes #8~10.  If it readily screws into each hole, the threads are not the problem.

Also, are you sure that the non-oem silver setscrew (#9) you are using is the correct size?
 
If you have removed the metal holding plate, you could very gently try screwing the #9 silver crosshead screw into one of the #1~#7 holes.  If it screws in easily, the #9 screw is not the problem.

That’s all I’ve got.

[Shambles]

Good advice all over the paddock there Terry

The main point being that none of the fitted hex bolts should be tightened until all bolts have been successfully [partially] screwed in.

[mbeari30]

Hi mbeari30.

I don’t know the answer for sure, but if you have the time to clarify some points…

So, there are 10 setscrews that secure the fuel filter assembly.
 
The 7 dark hex setscrews numbered #1~#7 are oem, yes?

You aren’t using the oem setscrews for holes #8~10 because the hex heads/threads are damaged (or are lost), yes?

When you started screwing in the non-oem silver crosshead screw (#9) it wouldn't "take" and you couldn’t tighten it down (and #8 & #10 are the same), yes?

Apologies, but because I don’t know you or your level of mechanical experience forgive me if I ask some very basic questions.

Are the hex setscrews #1~7 loose enough to give the plate sufficient wiggle room to move the plate around to better align holes #8~#10?

If the hex setscrews #1~7 are ‘loose’, do you know for sure that the threads in holes #8~10 are not damaged? (Unlikely it would be three, but not impossible).
 
One sure way to tell is to remove the metal holding plate and gently try screwing one of the oem hex setscrews into holes #8~10.  If it readily screws into each hole, the threads are not the problem.

Also, are you sure that the non-oem silver setscrew (#9) you are using is the correct size?
 
If you have removed the metal holding plate, you could very gently try screwing the #9 silver crosshead screw into one of the #1~#7 holes.  If it screws in easily, the #9 screw is not the problem.

That’s all I’ve got.

Hi Terry

Thank you so very much for taking the time to respond. It's very much appreciated.

I am a complete beginner (although I feel I've learned so much during this epic job!).

The screws were OEM yes. The non-OEM screws in the post was done by a neighbour to try to close shut the side of the lid that kept popping up as they were longer screws (completely realise I should have done the star pattern, but the opposite side of the lid kept popping up as soon as we had the other side in).

In the end, I drove it to the mechanics, where he used some long clamp pliers to pull the lip of the fuel tank upwards in order to create a comfortable fit.

It fit perfectly after that. Straight in, flush with the lip of the tank, screws went in no problem. He believes that it was pushed in too hard when it was fitted, or when I first did it, which I don't think I did as I was very light handed when I first tried to fit the pump unit in. Regardless, it fits now which is great...however....

So, drive back to my house (I'm about 500m from the mechanics) and with 20m to go, the car completely cuts out...on a bend no less.

Wave the next guy down who gives me a push the 20m back to my house, neighbours then help me get it to the side parking spaces off the road.

Call the mechanics who come out, take a look, start the car while inspecting the pump and confirm it's definitely the filter as there wasn't enough fuel coming through the hose when the car was started, which he believes is the problem

Apparently they did a Veloster the other week, same issue with the Ryco filter, but when they put in the old OEM filter, it went no problems.

SO...they actually told me that at 60k, even though it says in the book to replace it, they wouldn't be doing it until the whole pump needs to be changed. They told me to take the Ryco filter out and put back the old OEM filter.

I saw a few people say that they had the same problem after changing out the fuel filter (engine cranks but doesn't go) and one guy said it was the o-rings, but I'm pretty sure I double checked, might pay to check again.

Anyway, at this stage I'm looking to put the OEM filter back in and see what happens.

If it goes, I know it's the aftermarket part.

If it doesn't, I'll try to figure out where I've stuffed up with the o-rings.

Wish me luck 

[TerryT]

... The non-OEM screws in the post was done by a neighbour to try to close shut the side of the lid that kept popping up as they were longer screws (completely realise I should have done the star pattern, but the opposite side of the lid kept popping up as soon as we had the other side in).

In the end, I drove it to the mechanics, where he used some long clamp pliers to pull the lip of the fuel tank upwards in order to create a comfortable fit.  It fit perfectly after that. Straight in, flush with the lip of the tank, screws went in no problem. He believes that it was pushed in too hard when it was fitted, or when I first did it...

Good to hear you got that particular problem sorted.

Ah, now knowing that the "lid" popped up at #8~10 after screws #1~7 were fitted was the clue to the likely misalignment between the "lid" and the petrol tank "lip", but unfortunately the "popping up" was not obvious from the overhead photograph. 

I maybe should have thought more when you originally said.. "I have 3 screws left but they just don't sit flush.".  It wasn't the screws not sitting flush, it was the "lid" not sitting flush.  Ain't hindsight a wonderful thing!

Good luck with the rest of the job.   

[mbeari30]

Thank you again Terry!

Well...it was a case of user error! 

I decided to try to put the Ryco filter back in (rather than the OEM filter) and I had misplaced 2 washers. I was lucky enough to figure it out by the 'watermark' left by one of them (as pictured below). 

These popped out when I originally took the assembly apart, so I didn't know where they went.

Left the car idling for about 5 minutes and then took it for a tentative drive around the block, then a larger block.







Fingers crossed she runs for a big trip!

Now that I have done this, I think I'm brave enough to try bleeding the brakes!

Thanks again and have a great weekend!

Steph 

[TerryT]

Fingers crossed she runs for a big trip!

Now that I have done this, I think I'm brave enough to try bleeding the brakes!

Thanks again and have a great weekend!

Steph 

Steph, us amateur DIY forum members will have their collective fingers crossed for you, we have all been there in some way or another.

 I am no mechanic so will not offer much in the way of advice on bleeding brakes except...right tools, cleanliness, patience, and keep an eye on your master cylinder (top it up when/if it gets too low, you do not want to introduce air into your braking system)!

BTW, when I say "right tools" I mean for instance when loosening the bleeder valves on the brake calipers for the first time, better imo to use a snug fitting 6-point [single hex] socket or 6-point ring spanner (or flare nut spanner)...not 12-point [double hex].  That's just my opinion, it's not Law.

If a bleeder valve is a bit tight, a snug fitting 6-point tool has more chance of getting it out without rounding the head...which means you can use that bleeder valve again.

You: "Brave" and "brakes"? 


 

[mbeari30]

Fingers crossed she runs for a big trip!

Now that I have done this, I think I'm brave enough to try bleeding the brakes!

Thanks again and have a great weekend!

Steph 

Steph, us amateur DIY forum members will have their collective fingers crossed for you, we have all been there in some way or another.

 I am no mechanic so will not offer much in the way of advice on bleeding brakes except...right tools, cleanliness, patience, and keep an eye on your master cylinder (top it up when/if it gets too low, you do not want to introduce air into your braking system)!

BTW, when I say "right tools" I mean for instance when loosening the bleeder valves on the brake calipers for the first time, better imo to use a snug fitting 6-point [single hex] socket or 6-point ring spanner (or flare nut spanner)...not 12-point [double hex].  That's just my opinion, it's not Law.

If a bleeder valve is a bit tight, a snug fitting 6-point tool has more chance of getting it out without rounding the head...which means you can use that bleeder valve again.

You: "Brave" and "brakes"? 

Thanks Terry - you may have just saved my brake bleeding bacon 

I was actually going to use a 12 point and have seen in some videos where they've rounded the head 

I didn't connect the dots until you pointed it out and I had a bit of an aha moment   

So...6 point socket it is! I think also, from what most people say, the 10mm is a good fit but it is slightly loose, so I'll try both the 9mm and 10mm when I get the wheels off and really take my time. Will keep an eye on the master cylinder for sure, and I will make sure I keep any brake fluid off the paint as I've heard it can corrode paint and that would be 

Saw a mechanics vid on how to do it with a bit of fluid in the receiving bottle in order to suck fluid, not air, back into the system for a one-man brake bleed sooooo....we shall see how we go 

Thanks again for the advice and support....tentative the first time 'round, but I hope it will be easier compared to the fuel pump filter! *fingers crossed*

Have a great weekend  I'll be in the garage   

Steph

[TerryT]

Steph,

Glad to be of some assistance.  As I said, not a mechanic, just a plodder with some experience on the spanners over the many years.  Spent more on band-aids and dettol than most.

I'm not knocking any of the specialised brake bleeding tools available and successfully used by many.  But, imo, if you don't own or have access to any of those special tools, and if time is not an issue, and you are only servicing one or two family cars by the owners manual, I would use the old, traditional "2-person, plastic hose and 'receiving' bottle method".  The one-man bleeder tools can work, but the ones I tried many years ago were not as good as I would like.     

There are plenty of videos on YouTube illustrating the "old" way.  When I used to do it, my system was:  two people (one inside the car pumping/releasing the brake pedal and the other working the bleeder valve, in rehearsed unison) with the calls worked out for the brake pedal ("DOWN", "HOLD", "UP", "REST").   Two tips if you go this way... 

(1) When the outside man yells out "DOWN", the inside man never pushes the brake pedal down to the floor as the resistance to the pedal falls.  Never.  Just push the pedal down say, three-quarters of its travel and hold.  (There are good reasons for this involving brake piston seals and pitting etc but too long for me to explain now).

(2) Open both front car windows.  So much easier to hear and talk to each other.  ("Oops, sorry mate, thought you said 'UP', my bad" ).

Just realised, you have another thread going about brakes.   If I had known I would have posted there.  Oh, well...

Enjoy.

[TerryT]

Steph, keep forgetting to ask, what camera are you using?  It takes very nice, clear photos.

[mbeari30]

Steph, keep forgetting to ask, what camera are you using?  It takes very nice, clear photos.

I'm just using my iPhone Terry! It's an iPhone 11 pro. I bought it because of the camera actually. They said wait to get the 5G but it didn't suit timing-wise for me, so happy with this. Tech moves so quickly these days, so this will last a few years until it's a chip implanted in my retinas 

After some advice again please.

You wouldn't believe it, but we drove to Repco for the goods for the brake bleed. Made 2 stops along the way (complete stops, engine off for 10mins). No troubles at all.

It's a good 30min drive to Repco from home. Get in there, get the goods, come out and literally we reverse out of the parking lot and the car cuts out. It's cranking, no worries, but no pressure, so no fuel being pumped.

At this stage, I've spent so long on this that I'm just going to cut my losses and get it towed to the nearest mechanic (luckily for me, we broke down in an industrial area where plenty of mechanics are).

My question is: do I send it to a highly rated mechanic or do I send it to Hyundai (both are within close proximity to where the car is now).

The only reason I ask is that the mechanics here suggested that the aftermarket filter may be causing the issue. It could also be user error (i.e. me, which I'm sure could be the case given my level of experience, but as the Repco guys said, it's unlikely that the car would've gotten so far if it was reassembled incorrectly...they just don't think the pressure would have been maintained if an o-ring was slightly out of place for 30 mins).

They also said that that usually the pump is typically replaced with the filter (local mechanics said this also), but in the service book it says just replace the filter.

I'm pretty sure I've been 'duped' by Hyundai before (see a woman coming and all of a sudden you're up for this that and the other...) (keeping in mind my car is only 60,000 kms so it's not done a lot in 5 years and it's 'woman' driving  ). So I don't really 'trust' mechanics, which is why I started down this DIY road myself.

Insurance guy was super helpful, but suggested a mobile mech and I know that's just going to be $$$$$, and it was a minimum 5 hr wait for a tow. Had my daughter with me (she's only 7) so that wasn't an option. So we just Uber'd home.

Anyway, sorry for all the questions 

I figure as well that since it's going to be up, mechanics may as well do the rest. (brakes etc.)

A bit bummed that I seem to have caused more problems than I set out to fix, but at least it's given me an insight into cars  (if you don't laugh, you'll cry!)

Hopefully it's still there on Monday...

[TerryT]

Steph, it's definitely not your week, is it.

You said: "My question is: do I send it to a highly rated mechanic or do I send it to Hyundai (both are within close proximity to where the car is now)." 

If warranty is not applicable (and I suspect it won't be) I'd go to a "highly rated mechanic" as it's likely that the problem (hopefully) is fuel: pump/filter/pressure-related and not some unrelated, random brain-teaser issue (read "expensive").  Others may have a different opinion.

Would be nice if some of our (ex-)mechanic members could pitch in with expert comments or opinions.

Thanks for the reply about your camera phone camera.  I'm impressed.

Good luck with your repairs.

[TerryT]

@mbeari30

Hi Steph.  So how did it out all finally pan out for you re fuel filter and brake issues?  You now a happy camper?

Cheers,

TT. 

[mbeari30]

@mbeari30

Hi Steph.  So how did it out all finally pan out for you re fuel filter and brake issues?  You now a happy camper?

Cheers,

TT.

Hi Terry

Thanks so much for asking....technically, now, yes...happy camper....especially as I've just returned from a camping trip!

BUT...you're never going to believe this. It's a long story, so I will dot point my adventures:

- mechanics fitted the fuel filter back in
- next day, I drove 30mins to Repco to get supplies to do brakes & oil
- car lost pressure in the parking lot of Repco. It was a Saturday. Cal roadside assist - 5 hour min wait for tow.
- Uber'd home as I had my young daughter with me. Left car there for Monday tow.
- Monday Uber'd back to car. Arrange for tow to mech 500m down the road.
- Go visit said mech. Decide that I'd prefer my mech's back home to look at it
- Call roadside & they say they can only tow 20km, but they arrange for me to pay tow driver 4km difference
- tow driver turns up, says that he has to tow to the original mech. He calls his boss. His boss calls roadside. Roadside say I have to now pay entire tow myself.
- tow driver drives off
- I call roadside. They now say they cannot send another tow as I have used up my free tow. I ask when I can get another tow. They say it has to be a different breakdown instance.
- I arrange for tow back to mech's out of my own pocket.
- Mechs checked car out, drove it around their block 3 times no issues
- I made it 20m down the road before it lost fuel pressure
- we decided to reinstall the OEM fuel filter which mech did on side of road. Mech confirmed that there was nothing wrong with the way the Ryco filter was installed.
- tentatively drove around my suburb a few times, no issues

I have now driven about 200kms since then, no issues.

So, have sent back the Ryco filter and submitted a warranty claim to Ryco for towing costs incurred.

A very harrowing week and was simply incredulous on my insurance company's policy & actions.

The heroes here were my mech's. Just incredible how much they helped without charging me, especially coming out to my car twice without charging me. Real customer service and didn't treat me anything less than they would if I was a man.

Got a few grunts of laughter from 2 older male mech's when I was trying to find a mech near where I broke down. But a really nice guy in one shop who was much younger and very polite and said "you've done a pretty good job and I'm pretty impressed with how far you got".

So there you go! Relieved it wasn't me and I can safely say unless it's a smaller part (like oils or cabin filters) I'm never buying aftermarket parts again.

Mech's believe that this filter has been made slightly thinner and that's why it lasted so long the first time without losing pressure. They also had this issue with another car, but they've asked their reps and nothing has been reported yet (although that doesn't mean there aren't issues).

I ended up asking the mech's to do my brakes & oil as I'd lost so much time and patience with the fuel filter I couldn't be bothered with the rest.

Much happier on a beach in Byron 

[TerryT]

@mbeari30

Hi Steph.  So how did it out all finally pan out for you re fuel filter and brake issues?  You now a happy camper?

Cheers,

TT.

Hi Terry

Thanks so much for asking....technically, now, yes...happy camper.  TT. Good to hear! 

- we decided to reinstall the OEM fuel filter which mech did on side of road. Mech confirmed that there was nothing wrong with the way the Ryco filter was installed.  TT. That's encouraging for you to know.

I have now driven about 200kms since then, no issues.  TT. That sounds promising. 

So, have sent back the Ryco filter and submitted a warranty claim to Ryco for towing costs incurred.  TT. Good luck with your claim.  You may have better luck if your mechanic has supported your claim with a written report.

A very harrowing week and was simply incredulous on my insurance company's policy & actions.  TT. Yeah, some insurance companies never surprise with their enthusiasm for not helping the client.

The heroes here were my mech's. Just incredible how much they helped without charging me, especially coming out to my car twice without charging me. Real customer service and didn't treat me anything less than they would if I was a man.  TT.  That's the mechanic everyone wants and give their future business to.

 I'm never buying aftermarket parts again.  TT. I understand your frustration but many parts supplied in non-oem boxes are virtually the same part you get from the dealer or, a different specc'd non-oem part will work just as good as the oem part, for cheaper.  On my former 2006 Subaru WRX STi I found that Ryco oil filters would not properly seal-fit on the vehicle, but I had successfully used Ryco oil filters over the years on other brands/models of cars. Sometimes it's just a lottery.

I ended up asking the mech's to do my brakes & oil as I'd lost so much time and patience with the fuel filter I couldn't be bothered with the rest.  TT.  Understandable.