[GURKHA17]

Hi guys,
Just wandering how many kms(approx) do you have to do to change the engine oil?(No out bush driving.) I had my service done at 7500 Kms and now its around 11500 and the engine oil colour is Black. Is that enough Kms?
Thanks

No one ever got into trouble changing the oil too frequently.  However if the oil is changed out when it's still good then it's a waste of money and oil and no benefit to your motor at all.

If good oil is used it should last for the whole 15,000km service intervals unless you shorten its life by those conditions mentioned in the Owner's Manual.

It's my belief that oil change intervals of 7,500km is too often but does conveniently split the standard service intervals.  If you do elect to change at 7,500km, I'd be inclined to not change the oil filter at this time but leave it to the 15,000km boundary.  Filters work best when partially clogged.

The dark colour of the oil means nothing except that it's doing its job of holding the ash ready to be flushed out with the oil at next change.  If it doesn't change colour I'd be more concerned.

What constitutes "good oil" is the subject of much discussion. 

[Rubix]

try checking out this thread, especially Pip's post on the 21st of November:

https://i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php/topic,1415.0.html

[Thumper]

The dark colour of the oil means nothing except that it's doing its job of holding the ash ready to be flushed out with the oil at next change.  If it doesn't change colour I'd be more concerned.

Interesting that you say this, since just before my 15,000km service I checked the oil and it was slightly darker, but in no way was it black.

Up to 26,500km now, just checked the oil, slightly darker than new, smells fine and is not watery.

Mine does not go 'black' like a typical older diesel does.

Then again, mine doesn't go like a typical diesel! 

EDIT: I have mine changed every 15,000km.

[GURKHA17]

Thanks guys. My main concern was that since I had done the 7500 km service and had the oil changed as well, so just wandering why my oil is black and feels very thin after just 4000 km. Anyways I'll go to the dealer tomorrow and check it out.
cheers

[Rubix]

Thanks guys. My main concern was that since I had done the 7500 km service and had the oil changed as well, so just wandering why my oil is black and feels very thin after just 4000 km. Anyways I'll go to the dealer tomorrow and check it out.
cheers

Careful of your pennies, Gurka, this just means the oil is working. Oil doesn't reach optimum UNTIL it's black, from what I understand, and your dealer is just going to charge you $100 to change it for nothing. I've had a 3 mechanics change my oil and filter inside 12 months (<10,000kms), and had to take my receipts back to the second two to show them that I know it wasn't necessary, because they were trying to charge me $100 for the time and oil.

[GURKHA17]

Thanks Rubix... Yes i knw of them, they'll just simply say, Oh its time to change and change and hand me a bill. I'm actually going there to fix my door (which has been locked forever), i'll just have a chat with them.
Cheers
Nilesh

[eye30]

I'll just change per the manual.

12 months or 10,000 miles ( 16093.4 kms) whichever comes first.

If there is any damage to the engine I'll claim under the warranty.

[Thumper]

GURKHA17 do you do allot of short trips? If so, then the oil is not coming up to proper temp.

My shortest trip involves a 60mile (100km) freeway trip. (At speeds up to 70mph)

I do this everyday. 

Thanks guys. My main concern was that since I had done the 7500 km service and had the oil changed as well, so just wandering why my oil is black and feels very thin after just 4000 km...

I just checked mine after 2,500km (from new) and it is also at this point, quite grey.  Feels just like oil though and has a detectable sooty smell.  My travel has been 70-30 highway/suburban with no congestion and very little idling (can't avoid all the lights). 

As for "very thin" I'd suggest it was like that when it went in and perfectly normal.  Most of the things we can deduce from looking and feeling will not likely be a good guide of how the oil is travelling.  One thing I wouldn't particularly like though, would be grittiness when rubbed between the fingers, and even then I'd just be guessing!

Thumper would be on the money... lots of short trips will see the oil diluted with fuel and condensation without a chance to "burn" it off.  In this case the recommendation (from Hyundai) is to swap it out at 7500km intervals.  My recommendation would be to forgo the filter change at this time because it will be still in perfect condition.  If you were changing the oil early because of dusty conditions then changing the filter with it makes much more sense then.

Do you have any idea what oil it is actually?  Just curious.

And does anyone know what the factory fill is?

[Rubix]

If this is true, the burn-off thing, maybe going on a 2+ hour drive once every few weeks would assist. Just an idea.

If this is true, the burn-off thing, maybe going on a 2+ hour drive once every few weeks would assist. Just an idea.

Well, it may or may not be true but hey any excuse for a long drive. 

Most, if not all, the dilution contamination occurs between start-up from cold and normal operating temperature.  Fuel is a little richer and combustion less complete when cold leaving some to blow-by the rings into the sump (oil) along with some water vapor which condenses in the cold and also ends up in the oil (remember water is a by-product of combustion - we've all seen it dripping from the exhaust pipe).  Once fully warmed up, ideally all that's left in the blow-by is a little soot which the oil will hold in suspension.  This happens every time you start the car from cold.  Just how much of these contaminants will ever "evaporate" is debatable.  While not a chemist I can easily visualise diesel oil (fuel) for instance happily combining with engine oil, permanently.  Water less likely so I expect it can be "burnt" off.

Also, when cold, the oil that last coated many parts will have drained back into the sump and it takes a finite time for the oil pump to get up to pressure and re-lubricate everything, particularly at the top of the engine so to some extent the first few seconds will always be with less than optimum lubrication.  I always wait for 10 seconds before moving off - long enough to check mirrors and seat-belt etc.

So if all the oil problems happen at start-up the obvious way to minimise them is to start the car less often. 

Seriously, if every start was followed by a ride so short that it never warmed up the oil, the engine would always be running in the cold zone and sadly it would be wearing out quicker than it might otherwise.

Also worth noting, the temperature gauge, which monitors the engine coolant, does not indicate the oil temperature which will not be at maximum temperature for quite a bit longer than you might think (10km or 6 miles p'raps?) so don't thrash your much loved car until it's warmed up properly.   Then give it heaps.   

[GURKHA17]

GURKHA17 do you do allot of short trips? If so, then the oil is not coming up to proper temp.

My shortest trip involves a 60mile (100km) freeway trip. (At speeds up to 70mph)

I do this everyday. 

Thanks guys...
Yes Thumper, my trips are generally short around 10-15 km at the most in one go. But I end up doing almost 100 kms a day.
Darwin being small, here we have to do lots of starts. After reading all of the above, think you guys are right. The trips here are all short. As I said before 10-15 is the most I do in one go, but 100 in total is because I have to do that same trip a number of times.

[dacho]

I'm changing my oil now at 2500 km besauce I wan't fresh oil in it after these first peroid of carefull driving (I'm not sure if you anderstend what I'm saying).
In future I will change my oil every 7000 km regardles to regular service because I drive my car at track. The oil is Mobil 1 5w-50 

[Rubix]

I'm changing my oil now at 2500 km besauce I wan't fresh oil in it after these first peroid of carefull driving (I'm not sure if you anderstend what I'm saying).
In future I will change my oil every 7000 km regardles to regular service because I drive my car at track. The oil is Mobil 1 5w-50 

I was thinking of doing the same thing. I'll mash the engine for a few hundred k's, get the grit out of it, then I'll change the oil myself or at the 1,000km service.

And does anyone know what the factory fill is?

I asked my dealer's service department (Werribee Hyundai) what the factory fill used was and they said "Shell"... no idea what but if it is expected to last for (up to) 15,000km then I assume it's Shell Helix Ultra - which their "synthetic".  I'd get it out before then though. 

I also asked what they would use when doing my service and they said  "Castrol Edge 5w30".  So if you are happy with that choice and want to save a few bucks, both Supercheap and Autobarn seem to have it on regular specials.  Take your own when you go for a service as Dazz does.

This was for a diesel and probably only applies to Oz because it does not have ACEA C3 specification which is required for exhaust filter which we don't have.  Think "C" for catalytic.   

[Thumper]

Actually, Australian diesel i30's do have a catalytic converter in them.

As per: https://i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php/topic,114.msg7674.html#msg7674

Actually, Australian diesel i30's do have a catalytic converter in them.

As per: https://i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php/topic,114.msg7674.html#msg7674

Ok, I read that thread (curiously, I thought I had read every word on this forum  ) and I'm not sure if you are just being playfully pedantic or screwing with my mind (no help needed  ) or actually trying to tell me I need to consider the C3 specification (as stated in the handbook) because Oz cars do have a CPF.

The sticker in the engine bay says it doesn't.

So what is it: I have a CPF (the term that the handbook uses) or I don't?

[Lakes]

Hi Pip, no you don't have a CPF, but you do have a catalistic converter ( different to what petrol motors use ) this is probably the reason they have that sweet smell not a diesel exhast smell when runing and you get out the back to smell it.
my owners handbook tells the standard's oil must meet and says also use oil that meet's or exceeds these standards. i use oil that exceeds the standards.

[Zombie]

In Finland we have service interval of 12 months or 20.000 km (whichever comes first) per manual and I won't do any extra oil changes.

I asked my dealer's service department (Werribee Hyundai) what the factory fill used was and they said "Shell"... no idea what but if it is expected to last for (up to) 15,000km then I assume it's Shell Helix Ultra - which is their "synthetic".  I'd get it out before then though. 

Well, just now I swapped out the original fill with Castrol Edge 5w30 after 6,700k.  I plan to leave that there until the 15,000k service when I'll supply my own - but probably a better oil than what I've just used.  This Castrol is so bloody cheap (at the sale price) it's hard to pass up and it will do perfectly for the < 8,000k it'll be in there for.  I didn't change the filter.

The oil I took out looked just like all the used oil I've taken out of cars for the last 40 odd years... black and horrible... but as has been discussed, its appearance reveals little about its lubrication qualities.  Just the same I'm well pleased to get it out because I'm a believer in an early flush from new and probably would have been happier to have done it before now.