[PhireSideZA]

Hi all

I am doing the brake pads all around on my 2011 1.6 Petrol this weekend, but it seems to me that the front brake pads I received don't have the little metal springy clips that the rear pads were supplied with.

They look similar to the ones pictured below:



My question is this - can I reuse my old clips that are currently installed with the new pads or should I write to the brake pad manufacturers and ask them if they can send me a pair, since they must have forgotten to put mine in the box I received.

I suspect it won't be an issue but just thought I'd chime in here before I go ahead and turn Hippo into a coffin on wheels

[Asterix]

If we're talking about the clips in the lower right corner of the Picture, then go ahead with the old ones. Clean them up with a steel brush and add new cubbergrease.

[Lorian]

if you purchased 3rd party parts they sometimes don't come with them.

The clips on my car were 5 years old when I did the front pads, and although I had new clips with my pads the old ones would have cleaned up perfectly well for re-use (I didn't throw them away they were so good).

Just remember to clean well and put a little ceramic grease (or copper if you  are old ;-) ) on them before re-assembly.

Clean and re-grease the guide bolts too if you want to be nice to the brakes.
 
If you need the torque values for the guide and hanger bolts reply - I have a record of them somewhere.

[Lorian]

Don't forget to check the thickness of the discs in a few places too. The minimum thickness is likely to be 28mm on the front - but the value is tamped into the hub part of the disc.

[PhireSideZA]

Thanks for the hints gents.

I will check the thickness out, Hyundai SA said that it will need to be replaced at the next service but I am a bit skeptical of their measurements - I will whip out the vernier this weekend and see what they say.

The pads were shipped with some grease (I suspect copper-based - I hope!) which I will use. I think I have some around the shed as well that I will use if necessary.

Just as a by the way, Hyundai charged me R1700 (AU$170) for front and rear pads, but I managed to find these (Deselra) for R665 (AU$66) - bargain! The salesman reckons they work well as he is running a pair on his Polo and he has no complaints

[Dazzler]

Just as a by the way, Hyundai charged me R1700 (AU$170) for front and rear pads, but I managed to find these (Deselra) for R665 (AU$66) - bargain! The salesman reckons they work well as he is running a pair on his Polo and he has no complaints

..and you can always believe a salesman.. 

Whenever I said I had one at home I always thought I sounded shonky, even though in my case I was usually telling the truth. 

[PhireSideZA]

Just as a by the way, Hyundai charged me R1700 (AU$170) for front and rear pads, but I managed to find these (Deselra) for R665 (AU$66) - bargain! The salesman reckons they work well as he is running a pair on his Polo and he has no complaints

..and you can always believe a salesman.. 

Whenever I said I had one at home I always thought I sounded shonky, even though in my case I was usually telling the truth. 

Well there is one way to find out

If I meet my demise due to the brakes I will be sure to haunt his house first

[Dazzler]

 

[Johnno]

Car manufactures as a rule do not make their own brakes, they get brake specialists to perform this task and advise them on their requirements.

The biggest difference between manufactures requirement and after market brakes is the construction on how its put together

The manufactures brakes have the back plate moulded to the friction pad material which is a expensive procedure and after market  ones are glued together which is cheaper to make.

This is what I was told on a factory tour at Mintex brakes years ago, maybe this has changed these days.
I've only ever seen this once where the friction material as come away from the metal backplate

 

[Shambles]

Hang on... are we not talking about anti-squeal shims?

[Lorian]

Hang on... are we not talking about anti-squeal shims?

I think the op is talking about the spring clips, and Johnno is talking about the metal  shims attached to the back of the pads. The shims don't come away from the pads, at least not by design :-)

The spring clips need just a small amount of the right hm grease on the inside of the ends, the shim needs a good dob where It contacts the piston.

[Lorian]

Now i go off topic slightly. But when pushing the pistons in to make room for the bigger pads, the recommended way to do this now, particularly for cars with abs, is to clamp the hose by the caliper, undo the bleed nipple (with pipe attached) and then push the piston (squarely),  so the spare fluid evacuates rather than heading towards the abs pump. I guess this is like using ceramic not copper grease, the old ways work, but I am a bit of a perfectionist. saves having to extract surplus fluid from the reservoir too.

[Phil №❶]

I've still got my Kmart brake spreader for that job, a good little device as you can wind on a bit of pressure and then release the bleeder to ensure no air gets into the system.

[Lorian]

I have a similar device, I wouldn't like to do pads and discs without it, and the torque wrench.

[Dazzler]

You are a versatile man Lorian (a long way from your usual work) 

Nice to have you back on a more regular basis and with such helpful info. 

[Lorian]

You are a versatile man Lorian (a long way from your usual work) 

Nice to have you back on a more regular basis and with such helpful info. 

I'm sure it won't be long till I get locked up again ;-)

[Johnno]

Sorry guys, I thought he had concerns about fitting non Hy pads

[PhireSideZA]

Hang on... are we not talking about anti-squeal shims?

I think the op is talking about the spring clips, and Johnno is talking about the metal  shims attached to the back of the pads. The shims don't come away from the pads, at least not by design :-)

The spring clips need just a small amount of the right hm grease on the inside of the ends, the shim needs a good dob where It contacts the piston.

Lorian is correct as I suspect the clips are to hold the pad in place as they sort of 'wrap' around the edges of the pads when installed.

Now i go off topic slightly. But when pushing the pistons in to make room for the bigger pads, the recommended way to do this now, particularly for cars with abs, is to clamp the hose by the caliper, undo the bleed nipple (with pipe attached) and then push the piston (squarely),  so the spare fluid evacuates rather than heading towards the abs pump. I guess this is like using ceramic not copper grease, the old ways work, but I am a bit of a perfectionist. saves having to extract surplus fluid from the reservoir too.

This is something I had not considered, thank you.

I know common practice is to remove the brake fluid reservoir so that when you push the piston back it doesn't create pressure in the braking system, but I have only done this on non-ABS vehicles thus far.

The more you know

[baroudeur]

I know common practice is to remove the brake fluid reservoir so that when you push the piston back it doesn't create pressure in the braking system, but I have only done this on non-ABS vehicles thus far.

The more you know

 

[Asterix]

I know common practice is to remove the brake fluid reservoir so that when you push the piston back it doesn't create pressure in the braking system, but I have only done this on non-ABS vehicles thus far.

The more you know

 

I saw that as well. I'm sure that's not what he intended to write.. 

[Shambles]

obviously the brake fluid reservoir cap

[PhireSideZA]

I'll just remove the entire braking system while I'm at it, it's no big deal

I guess I was a bit in a hurry when I typed that - my apologies. In any case, I managed to change out the pads yesterday and learnt a few lessons in the mean time.

Front pads were still good for another 20'000km at least, but the rear pads were about 5'000km from finished. I re-used the clips that were on the car and got them fitted in no time at all. The front pads were a breeze, but getting to the rear caliper bolts meant disassembling the rear linkages to gain access to the bolt that had to come out - which I found was a very strange design and not cleverly thought out.

Anyways, Hippo stops on a dime now and the piercing squeak from the rear pad wear indicators is a thing of the past

[Dazzler]

 

[Wingerdave]

You'll always find strange things like that, but when you realise the order in which the components are fitted in the factory during production it's usually easily explained.

[PhireSideZA]

You'll always find strange things like that, but when you realise the order in which the components are fitted in the factory during production it's usually easily explained.

Curse them Koreans and their finicky assembly practices!

It could have been worse I suppose...at least I could keep the wheel on the car

Thanks all for the sage advice

[The Gonz]

[Lorian]

but getting to the rear caliper bolts meant disassembling the rear linkages to gain access to the bolt that had to come out - which I found was a very strange design and not cleverly thought out

You need to take the top link off to get the caliper hanger bolt out to replace the disc, but you can replace the pads without removing it, just remove the lower guide bolt and swivel the caliper up.

[PhireSideZA]

but getting to the rear caliper bolts meant disassembling the rear linkages to gain access to the bolt that had to come out - which I found was a very strange design and not cleverly thought out

You need to take the top link off to get the caliper hanger bolt out to replace the disc, but you can replace the pads without removing it, just remove the lower guide bolt and swivel the caliper up.

Now why didn't I think of that? D'oh