[Fi30cw2009]

So I was driving along last weekend when I started to hear a grinding noise during braking. I wasn't anywhere near anything (it being rural Finland during summer cottage season) and I figured it was the warning sound from the brake pads wearing thin. So after returning to civilisation, I got myself a new set of pads (I don't think the originals have ever been replaced) and took off the rear passenger side wheel, which is where the loudest noises came from, my intention being to replace the pads as per this diagram.

However, when I got the wheel off and swung back the calliper and had a look at the thing, there were several new issues (see attached image Dropbox link at the bottom). First one being that I couldn't remove the old pads - they seemed firmly glued into place by rust and dust. Then I noticed that part of the rubber seal from inside the calliper itself had gotten caught in the brake mechanism and had torn a hole. Finally, the brake disks themselves look like they really ought to be replaced.

So this raised a few questions:
1. how do I remove the old pads when they're basically welded into place? I got the outside pad loosened a bit but that took ages and eventually I gave up and wiggled it back to its original spot.
2. what exactly is that rubber seal for (is it for convenience, or is it critical to the integrity of the brake system) and how urgently should I get it replaced?
3. this probably answers itself, but should I also be replacing those discs at the same time?

Edit: my image was ~250 KB and the forum told me the max attachment size was 200 KB. So I resized and cropped it slightly so that it was ~180 KB, and then the forum told me that the max size was 50 KB. What!? So I gave up trying to attach it. Here's a Dropbox link to the image instead:

http://www.dropbox.com/s/rsmwq1kau1agyoa/Screenshot_2015-07-07-20-46-24.jpg

[cruiserfied]

Rightio, 100% new rotors. You could attempt to get them machined but that could cost half the price of new rotors and once the pads go metal to metal your lucky to be within minimum thickness limit after machining anyway. Also the lower control arm needs to be unbolted to access the lower caliper cage bolt.
the torn boot is a big concern, it keeps all the dust and water out of the brake caliper piston, I would almost guarantee a leak once piston pushed back with new pads. You will need to have the caliper overhauled and likely a new piston installed judging by the amount of corrosion around the other components.
The pads slide out away from the rotor, with that corrosion you might have to get a bit forceful. Did your new pads come with new anti-rattle shims? If not you might wanna try and get some new ones if you can.
Hope this helps.

[Fi30cw2009]

Exactly what I was looking for, thanks. Sigh. I really like the Hyundai (a lot more than various Skodas and Toyotas I've used) but this thing is starting to turn into a huge black hole for money... I've owned it for two years only, and already I've had various problems up to and including an expensive power steering pump replacement

[Dazzler]

Hi Jason,

Sorry to hear of your expensive repairs with such relatively low mileage. Tim is a national treasure for the help he gives us on this site...

With regards to posting further pictures. Attachments can get lost if the site crashes and they add to our bandwidth (that is why they are so limited)

The best way (in future) to add photos is by adding an image link for photos hosted on a free or paid hosting site like Imgur or photobucket (Tutorial in welcome section)

Good luck with the brake fix. 

[Surferdude]

Cruiserfied's reply is perfect.
I wonder if the car has been exposed to or lived near salt water.

[Fi30cw2009]

More likely it's the salt they put on the roads here during the (long) winters, although even my last car, a Vauxhall (Opel) Corsa from 1996, didn't look this bad when I changed out its previous discs about three years ago. I'm just having a run of bad luck, I guess.

[Surferdude]

More likely it's the salt they put on the roads here during the (long) winters, although even my last car, a Vauxhall (Opel) Corsa from 1996, didn't look this bad when I changed out its previous discs about three years ago. I'm just having a run of bad luck, I guess.

I guess the salt on the roads would explain it. Plus, I reckon the car has sat for some time after exposure to the salt. Which would contribute to the deterioration.

[cruiserfied]

I'm so glad we dont have to deal with road salting.
how can there not be a better product by now.