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Looking at that wiring diagram, I would think those Door and Tailgate switches refer to "door open" switches, not window control switches, as they link to the door open tel-tale on the cluster. That's just my observation anyhow.
In any case, it might be useful to compare resistance to each of these switches from where it connects to the board. They should all measure fairly high (use the ohmmeter setting and measure from cable pin to ground.
Quote from: The Gonz on July 28, 2021, 11:52:29In any case, it might be useful to compare resistance to each of these switches from where it connects to the board. They should all measure fairly high (use the ohmmeter setting and measure from cable pin to ground.should i measure between the board connector pins (eg the male pins of connector B) and between the car ground? or do i need to locate the wiring for the door lock sensors (is that the same thing as the switch or those are different components?)?measuring between the board pins and ground (using the setting 2M Ohm), all is fluctuating constantly:pin 11: 0.050 - 0.150 (sometimes even dropping to forties/thirties)pin 12: 0.250 - 0.320pin 13: 0.250 - 0.320pin 14: 0.250 - 0.320
@eLod Note: When you are using a multimeter in Impedance (ohms) mode, the meter itself applies a dc voltage. Make sure the circuit you are testing is not live with another dc voltage, otherwise results will be strange.
@The Gonz. I have admiration for helping here under difficult circumstances, reliant on only text exchanges during faultfinding in a different time zone. I have been trying to make head or tails of it myself, but I am finding it really difficult to follow.
Question. Are you asking @eLod to measure impedence of each door switch sense wire to ground, from (disconnected) connector at the Cluster. See diagram attached. i.e. pins 10,11,12,13. disconnected from Cluster represented by red X's.
I see from the circuit diagram that wires from those switches also individually run in parallel to "BCM" via other connectors "MF12" and "MF22" located somewhere. So impedence test, even if Cluster connector is disconnected, will be affected by the BCM in parallel.
@eLod, you have posted a lot of information. I'll have to try to reconcile what you have described with the diagram and it may take some time.
@eLod I see that connector B pin14 goes to "Tailgate Actuator" and that the "Luggage Lamp" is also in that circuit.Question: Can you confirm the "Luggage Lamp" is really not lit when tailgate is closed. Maybe pull the bulb if at all uncertain or to discount that completely as source of current drain.
Quote from: Greyhound on July 31, 2021, 15:35:12@eLod I see that connector B pin14 goes to "Tailgate Actuator" and that the "Luggage Lamp" is also in that circuit.Question: Can you confirm the "Luggage Lamp" is really not lit when tailgate is closed. Maybe pull the bulb if at all uncertain or to discount that completely as source of current drain.well the drain was present when pin 14 was not connected. also i checked luggage lamp many times before to rule it out, it's a common problem (e.g. youtube videos for parasitic drain and etc.), but yes, if i lock manually the tailgate lock (eg with a screwdriver) the lamp goes off and i can see the additional drain when it is on on my ammeter.
I agree with The Gonz, your nighttime observation is a promising lead.Im wondering if that LCD backlight is affected by the instrumentation variable brightness control (assuming that car has it). What happens if that is adjusted up or down? Does adjusting it right down turn LCD backlighting completely off?
Quote from: Greyhound on August 07, 2021, 09:47:41...assuming that car has itwell in that place (left to the driving wheel, on the crash pad) i have:- a light scroll stuff, but judging by the icon i think it is rather controlling the headlight angle and not the lcd- esp off- isg off- empty slot (though wires do come in the back, just no button/control there)
...assuming that car has it
Well from that photo, I guess your FD does not have a instrumentation brightness control.The "light scroll.." control in that panel is headlight beam level adjust, not instumenattion brightness adjust.
Edit: When you were sitting in the car in the dark and key removed, were the car lights etc also switched OFF?I wonder if that LCD backlight behaviour is also visible when car is locked, lights off, you are outside it looking in through the window?
Also I just did a web serach and found this item, but I think the current drain they had was much greater than you have experienced. Maybe worth a quick read though: Untraceable Current Draw on 96 i30 - Car Forums and Automotive ChatA couple of YouTube videos re parsitic current draw which may be of some interest: 2009 Hyundai Parasitic Draw - YouTube The BEST Way TO Perform a Parasitic Draw Test - YouTube
Quote from: Greyhound on August 07, 2021, 13:28:05Also I just did a web serach and found this item, but I think the current drain they had was much greater than you have experienced. Maybe worth a quick read though: Untraceable Current Draw on 96 i30 - Car Forums and Automotive ChatA couple of YouTube videos re parsitic current draw which may be of some interest: 2009 Hyundai Parasitic Draw - YouTube The BEST Way TO Perform a Parasitic Draw Test - YouTubethanks for the urls, i will check them out thoroughly, haven't had the time yet
I also thought those links may be too general for your case after I had posted them, but maybe some measurement ideas.Regarding unexpected lit LCD, have you seen this thread on here: I30 milometer LCD backlight comes on by itselfIs your LCD still lit long after car is locked. e.g. have you viewed it after an hour since locking and taking key away?I presume you know the LCD illumination LED, is shown on another schematic drawing "INDICATORS & GUAGES (2)" that you posted before. But those schematics are not proper circuit diagrams and not very helpful in troubleshooting IMO.