[Lorian]

Valve Seals?

I'm thinking about suplying my own oil at service time.  

The Magnatec 5w30 is a "medium" 30 weight viscosity (10.06).  Some other w30 oils are a bit thicker such as the Castrol Edge 5w30 (12.0). However, since your car has used oil right from the beginning (you said it needed a top-up after 5000km from the initial 1000km service where the oil was changed) I'd be trying a different oil at the next service.  I'd also be topping up with the newly chosen oil as well until then.

I'd suggest an even more viscous oil than the Edge 5w30 and go for a 0w40 oil and monitor its consumption.  If it arrests it, then re-assess your options from there - stick with it or try another. The Edge may also be "good enough" to solve the problem and cheap as well.  Don't worry about mixing them... they all mix.

I suggest you initially try either Mobil 1 0w40 or Castrol 0w40. Both of which are, I believe excellent oils and significantly better than the Magnatec - and priced accordingly of course.

If the real problem is a bad valve oil seal or other then changing oils might help but obviously can't fix it.

[eye30]

Take the filler cap off and look at the oil which may be on the filler cap.

Does it look OK or is it a thick looking treacle type?

Also, smell it, don't get oil on the end of your nose as everyone will make silly remarks  , and see if it smells of burnt toffee. 
If so, then you have a problem and see garage asap.

Wihout reading all posts again, have you undertaken a controlled dip stick test?
i.e. fill to full and monitor over a period of time.  But make sure you measure car is at same spot and best done first thing in morning before you start engine.

[dacho]

Problem is in Castrol oil, I in my service garage have the same problem with all 2.0 engines in hyundai, now we use Mobil and Valvoline. I personally use Mobil 5W-50 for my I30, in my getz 1.6 I use Valvoline 10W-60 and never had a problem with oil. to all my customers i change oil every 7500 km regardles th service book.

[2i30s]

i think dachos reason is right. i checked the wife's oil in the cw and it needs half a liter of oil, and its got 2,000kms less on it than my car.I've never used castrol oil in any of my previous cars because i was told by my father it wasn't very good. hes allways changed his own oil and swears by Valvoline or penrite. has any one found the castrol oil used by the dealers to be not up to its job.? thanks for your help. 

[2i30s]

Take the filler cap off and look at the oil which may be on the filler cap.

Does it look OK or is it a thick looking treacle type?

Also, smell it, don't get oil on the end of your nose as everyone will make silly remarks  , and see if it smells of burnt toffee. 
If so, then you have a problem and see garage asap.

Wihout reading all posts again, have you undertaken a controlled dip stick test?
i.e. fill to full and monitor over a period of time.  But make sure you measure car is at same spot and best done first thing in morning before you start engine.

no nasty smell or treakel on cap,eye.

[StarSeeker]

has any one found the castrol oil used by the dealers to be not up to its job.? thanks for your help.  

In my previous petrol car I used to use Castrol Magnatec and changed the oil and filter myself and in between the oil changes my car never needed topping up and it had done over 150,000 miles, before I scrapped it for an i30.

I agree that some engine oils give better protection than others and I would see it even more important to use a very good quality one, if I was only having my car serviced once a year.  In your case you are losing oil and in my opinion I can't see that the quality of oil you use should have any excessive impact on that.  

The way I see it is good quality oil has more additives in it and offers better protection, especially on short journeys, but would find it difficult to understand how it could have any impact on the oils consumption.

Keep up the investigation 2i30s, while you still have your warranty.

[2i30s]

has any one found the castrol oil used by the dealers to be not up to its job.? thanks for your help.  

In my previous petrol car I used to use Castrol Magnatec and changed the oil and filter myself and in between the oil changes my car never needed topping up and it had done over 150,000 miles, before I scrapped it for an i30.

I agree that some engine oils give better protection than others and I would see it even more important to use a very good quality one, if I was only having my car serviced once a year.  In your case you are losing oil and in my opinion I can't see that the quality of oil you use should have any excessive impact on that.  

The way I see it is good quality oil has more additives in it and offers better protection, especially on short journeys, but would find it difficult to understand how it could have any impact on the oils consumption.

Keep up the investigation 2i30s, while you still have your warranty.

so why is the oil disappearing in two cars using the same brand of oil .? its eather the hyundai engines or the oil

[IMCRZY]

has any one found the castrol oil used by the dealers to be not up to its job.?

We used it when i work at a Nissan dealer and the 20w/50 oil was fine for consumption but if it was not changed every 7,500kms it would turn to sludge....

Any grade lower than that seemed to dissapear....

Would say im about 99% sure it will be the oil used rather than the engines....

[StarSeeker]

so why is the oil disappearing in two cars using the same brand of oil .? its eather the hyundai engines or the oil

In your position I would hope it's the oil and on future services, I would just make sure that the dealer uses an oil that's approved by Hyundai.  In my UK owner's manual they make mention of Shell Helix and a range of viscosities according to your temperature.  If the temperature in where you live is high, I would imagine your engine oil would need to be of a higher viscosity and if the temperatures in where you live are low, I would imagine your engine oil would need to be of a lower viscosity.

If I thought it was the oil as you do, I think I would get it changed to something Hyundai approved of straight away and hope it sorts itself out and if it doesn’t, you always have the warranty to fall back on

Good luck and I hope using a different oil sorts it.

[Dazzler]

I think starseeker may have actually hit on something there .. it could be the combinationof the oil and the very high temps you have been experiencing in Melbourne....

[2i30s]

lately we have had lows over night of only 18c and highs of 40c plus.ill blame the oil,at this stage. 

[2i30s]

in problems and issues,non model specific i have started asking questions about engine oil. what you use or wont use. I'm not using the oil that my dealer uses next time around. 

in problems and issues,non model specific i have started asking questions about engine oil. what you use or wont use. I'm not using the oil that my dealer uses next time around.  

I've expressed my view here already.  To add:

There are only three ways an engine "uses" oil (excluding unusual ways).

• Leaks out via engine seals/gaskets and drips on the ground
• Burns/blows out the exhaust after entering the combustion chamber via the valve stems
• Burns/blows out the exhaust after passing the rings from the bottom to enter the combustion chamber
  

The passage of oil past the rings is inevitable and required to ensure cylinder lubrication so even with the exception of the gaskets and the valve stem leaks, some oil consumption is inevitable - even desirable.

How much oil passes any of these points depends on its actual viscosity (thickness) at the time it happens.   EDIT: Just to be clear, this will happen when the oil is hot! Engine oil is like any other oil and thins with temperature. Engine oil is designed to resist this. Some do it better than others.

Why I mention this particularly is that the viscosity cannot be presumed from the number on the label.  An x30 weight oil can be a higher weight (viscosity) than a x40 weight at operating temperature (and age). Trying to work this out (and all the other things that differentiate between good and better oils) can be a serious problem.

Almost certainly, with oils you get what you pay for.

Buy an expensive oil that meets the manufacturers specifications.  This might sound like reckless advice but one thing is certain, a bargain oil will not turn out to be a clever buy, unless very lucky.

Do you really think manufacturers sell their best oils cheap?

Buy cheap wine if you want to look for bargains...

[2i30s]

the oil the dealers service dept is using is only a $35 for 5lts,everone else that has responded to my other thread has stated the oil that's being used in their motors is a $50-$60 for 5lts and they don't add 1ltr between oil changes. the dealers oil wasn't my choice,its what they use. 

the oil the dealers service dept is using is only a $35 for 5lts,everone else that has responded to my other thread has stated the oil that's being used in their motors is a $50-$60 for 5lts and they don't add 1ltr between oil changes. the dealers oil wasn't my choice,its what they use. 

Take charge!  Buy some good oil and use it to top-up from now. If you have no reason not to, take along a fresh pack of the same oil for your next service. Monitor, decide next move.

[2i30s]

just an update on the oil loss. i had my 15000km service a couple of weeks ago and the dealer used the usual oil he uses and Ive noticed that now the weather is a hell of a lot cooler the oil disappearance has stopped.I've been checking our oils weekly and found that when the temp in summer was 40c odd it was using oil but now its only 18c odd or colder the oil use has stopped.I'm still not happy with the oil the dealer uses and the next service our cars get I'm using my own oil.