[richI30]

Hey folks,

The family Sedan has had this tapping noise for quite some years and I thought I'd finally get to the bottom of it!

Both Hyundai and another local garage reckon that it needs an engine re-build! Which I think is a bit extreme.

I can only describe the noise as a light high pitched tapping which starts immediately on start up and then gets less and less as the engine warms up. It's like the sound of tappets on an old push rod engine (which are easy to adjust), it doesn't sound like a deep bottom engine knocking or clunking, more top end.

Has anyone experienced something similar and was it an easy fix, do these engines commonly sound tappy? The problem hasn't got any worse over the years it's just annoying and de-values the vehicle obviously.

Look forward to spending some time around the forum.

Ta, Rich

[Aye30]

Hi, one thing I can think of is the timing chain and tensioner. If this model is chain timing, the tensioner is oil assisted. I had an i20 where the tensioner  had a weak spring, it was only after the oil pressure built up pressure that the timing chain stopped rattling. When I swapped out the tensioner ( and chain, as there was a stronger revision) the old tensioner could be easily compressed ( without the oil pressure). Can you see the timing chain from the oil filler? and if so can it be wiggled to see any slop?

[pidim]

I had this exact condition on my 2012, 18.L GD series.  I never did anything about. 
I kept the car until 2023 when I sold it with 135,000kms. 
Nothing ever went wrong with the engine in all those years and just kept to the normal annual servicing/15,000km intervals - zero oil consumption.

[TerryT]

Aye30 in his post above has a good suggestion.  In the day, I used automotive/mechanics stethoscopes to isolate the location of noises, see my post at Cold start rattle 2012 GD Premium 1.8 auto.

If you haven't got an automotive stethoscope, I recommend getting one (a good brand name) as they are reasonably cheap for what they can do. I'd run the probe of the stethoscope over the more likely culprits e.g. along the "rocker cover" (forgot its modern name ) under the large plastic cover atop of the engine and along the timing chain cover and tensioner.  Don't test too many places the first time as it just makes it harder to remember their noises.

With a stethoscope I would: (1) Test with the engine cold, at idle and at slightly increased revs.  (2) Test with the engine warmed up (not hot!!), at idle and at slightly increased revs.  (3) Test with the engine at operating temperature, at idle and at slightly increased revs.

Hopefully, you should be able to detect the location where the noise starts loud and then quietens down as the engine heats up.   Just a thought.