Car won't start this morning

z24o · **April 06, 2013, 02:53:42**

Hi Guys,
Have used this forum in the past when I installed my new headlights.....great sticky with pics
I have searched the data base and tried the recommended possibilities with no luck.....but did by chance find out that the mechanic had left my air valve plug off when he changed the oil filter!

My wife parked up our i30 CRD last night and this morning it won't start
It turns over and seems to fire then instantly dies
I have->.....

1-tried the spare key
2-checked for obvious loose/damaged wiring under the bonnet
3-tried locking/unlocking the doors
4-leaving it and try starting again

It has half a tank of diesel
The immobiliser dash symbol comes on with ignition and goes off with cranking
There is a low pitch whining noise around the left side of the engine bay area with the ignition on that turns to 3 beeps when the ignition is turned off and the key removed.
It is a 1.6 CRD so I don't think it has a lift pump before the fuel injection pump according to another post

Does anyone have any ideas of what the problem could be?
Living in a rural area means over an hours tow to a dealership.

Aussie Keith · **Reply #1: April 06, 2013, 04:22:05**

Glow plug fuse or some other glow plug calamity?

z24o · **Reply #2: April 06, 2013, 04:48:40**

Quote from: keith_h on April 06, 2013, 04:22:05

Glow plug fuse or some other glow plug calamity?

I checked all the simple fuses such as ECU's but didn't see anything related to glow plugs?
Am I looking in the wrong spot....main fuse box on passenger side of engine bay?

I am more familiar with older diesels that will start without glowing in warmer weather,does the i30 CRD rely heavily on glow plugs to start? It does seem to fire initially but won't run
Thanks
PS is the three beeps normal operation when you turn the ignition off?

Phil №❶ · **Reply #3: April 06, 2013, 05:09:27**

Pity you don't have OBDII, there is most likely an error code logged. The three beeps is not normal at all.

Dazzler · **Reply #4: April 06, 2013, 11:10:38**

Hi z240,

Just found your post. Have you tried to see if the Dealer can diagnose by phone?

I'm in Tassie too but only about 6kms from a Motors outlet, fortunately.

You seem to have a fairly good understanding of your car, hopefully you have got it going now

z24o · **Reply #5: April 06, 2013, 12:34:37**

hey Dazz,I will give it a shot,but I have never found any mechanic shops that try and solve your problem whilst doing themselves out of a job,but you never know
I will keep the forum posted of the outcome as it really sh1ts me when you read a post about a problem where guys suggest things and the original poster never bothers to say if it was resolved,just plain rude I reckon

Dazzler · **Reply #6: April 06, 2013, 12:44:46**

Just a thought seeing as you are so far out. Good luck!

beerman · **Reply #7: April 06, 2013, 13:13:55**

G'day mate,

We had an Iload at work do the same thing. Turned out it was the key. Given you have tried the spare key, I suspect it might be the thing that receives the encoded signal from the key.

I believe I have read something on here about this failing before, though I wouldn't know where to start looking for it.

eye30 · **Reply #8: April 06, 2013, 14:17:16**

Quote from: beerman on April 06, 2013, 13:13:55

G'day mate,

We had an Iload at work do the same thing. Turned out it was the key. Given you have tried the spare key, I suspect it might be the thing that receives the encoded signal from the key.

I believe I have read something on here about this failing before, though I wouldn't know where to start looking for it.

One of my key's had to have a new chip.

The spare worked fine.

Have you tried new battery?

Asterix · **Reply #9: April 06, 2013, 16:19:13**

Hi z240

Welcome to the forum.

Quote from: z24o on April 06, 2013, 02:53:42

It turns over and seems to fire then instantly dies

Does this mean the car runs for 1-3 seconds and then dies..

I don't know how the immobiliser Works on the Hyundai, but on VW's it's like this:

Car will start, but if the ECU find out that the key used is not coded correct, then the engine will stop within 3 seconds.

If this is what you experience, then I'm sure it is an immobiliser problem.

As you've allready tried the other key, the problem could be the reader at the ignition key slot, like Beerman says.

Dazzler · **Reply #10: April 06, 2013, 21:30:42**

Hi again z24o,

Just had another thought! (can't manage 2 in one day!)

Why not try disconnecting one terminal of the battery for 30 mins or so.. you will have to reset the clock and the radio but might also reset the immobilizer. I have a feeling this could fix the problem

z24o · **Reply #11: April 06, 2013, 23:13:08**

Disconnecting battery for 30 minutes failed to rectify the problem.
Just wondering if the immobilizer failed,does this disable the ignition (ie won't crank over/lights on dash won't work) or does it stop the fuel??
The motor cranks over and seems to fire for a split second then dies.

**Reply #12: April 06, 2013, 23:57:15**

Quote from: z24o on April 06, 2013, 23:13:08

Disconnecting battery for 30 minutes failed to rectify the problem.
Just wondering if the immobilizer failed,does this disable the ignition (ie won't crank over/lights on dash won't work) or does it stop the fuel??
The motor cranks over and seems to fire for a split second then dies.

Just to help you clarify a something, I add these insights. When a key chip failed for me several years ago, the motto would crank over but would not fire, not once. Therefore if your vehicle is firing at all, I would rule out a key problem. The VW scenario described by Asterix is not how the Hyundai works.

Someone's probably already suggested it, but have you access to an OBD2 device to look for error codes?

beerman · **Reply #13: April 07, 2013, 03:43:29**

Quote from: z24o on April 06, 2013, 23:13:08

Disconnecting battery for 30 minutes failed to rectify the problem.
Just wondering if the immobilizer failed,does this disable the ignition (ie won't crank over/lights on dash won't work) or does it stop the fuel??
The motor cranks over and seems to fire for a split second then dies.

The Iload did the same thing. Was better once I put the key that worked in, almost sounded like it would work. I suspect at that point it asked for the code and didn't get it so it shut it down. This is why I suspect it is the reader at the ignition. The key sends the code, but the reader dosen't read it. So the imobalizer shuts it down.

z24o · **Reply #14: April 08, 2013, 00:57:46**

Thanks for the replies
When the immobiliser fails does the orange dash symbol (key/car)stay on after you have tried cranking it or not?

Dazzler · **Reply #15: April 08, 2013, 12:34:58**

Damn, I really wanted to help

z24o · **Reply #16: April 08, 2013, 22:38:58**

Problem identified!!
Yesterday I found a possum(unfortunately too late for possum vs fan blade) in the engine bay of my dozer
This got me thinking........on further examination under the engine cover I found A RAT HAD CHEWED THE WIRES
I temporarily wired it back up and the engine started

Does anyone know what that part does?
The engine check light (emissions) and ESP Off light remain on.....any ideas?
Thanks guys

Dazzler · **Reply #17: April 08, 2013, 22:41:22**

Sorry, can't help with the wiring issue but really glad you found the problem

Shambles · **Reply #18: April 08, 2013, 22:49:16**

Looks like the common rail pressure sensor.

Phil №❶ · **Reply #19: April 08, 2013, 22:50:38**

The plug looks like the one you disconnect to fit a tuning chip, so it's to do with fuel injection. The big thick bundle of cables above, is headed to the car's ECU, which is the plastic shell on the side of the motor.

Glad you found the problem, sorry we didn't think of it.

Surferdude · **Reply #20: April 08, 2013, 23:14:12**

Quote from: Phil. on April 08, 2013, 22:50:38

The plug looks like the one you disconnect to fit a tuning chip, so it's to do with fuel injection. The big thick bundle of cables above, is headed to the car's ECU, which is the plastic shell on the side of the motor.

Glad you found the problem, sorry we didn't think of it.

Yeah you lot.

Go stand in the corner for an hour.

Great news z240. At least you can drive it to the dealers now.

BC · **Reply #21: April 08, 2013, 23:51:09**

How on earth would the rat have got there? Jumped onto the suspension then climbed upward?

Phil №❶ · **Reply #22: April 08, 2013, 23:55:38**

Yes, happens too often here on farms, harvesters are a prime target, especially if there's any grain around. They start on the grain , then the wiring.

z24o · **Reply #23: April 09, 2013, 00:07:21**

It's not called "rat cunning" for nothing

apparently they chew plastic to wear their teeth down so they don't get too long
I bought a Navara that had been parked up a while and it had the brake fluid reservoir chewed off!
Just finished baiting the garage....revenge is so sweet

beerman · **Reply #24: April 09, 2013, 00:13:20**

Quote from: z24o on April 09, 2013, 00:07:21

It's not called "rat cunning" for nothing
apparently they chew plastic to wear their teeth down so they don't get too long
I bought a Navara that had been parked up a while and it had the brake fluid reservoir chewed off!
Just finished baiting the garage....revenge is so sweet

You know he has friends......

Doggie 1 · **Reply #25: April 09, 2013, 08:26:42**

I've previously had rats in the engine bay of my last i30.
Until I called "The Exterminators."

Apparently they are creatures of habit and once they develop routes or pathways, they will continue to use the same ones and WILL come back, until removed.

Asterix · **Reply #26: April 09, 2013, 18:43:39**

Glad to hear you found the problem...

It's not the rail pressure sensor, as this sensor is placed in the topcover / valvecover, whatever you Guys call it.

The commomrail high pressure rail is located just below the Picture...

Shambles · **Reply #27: April 09, 2013, 18:50:56**

Quote from: Asterix on April 09, 2013, 18:43:39

It's not the rail pressure sensor, as this sensor is placed in the topcover / valvecover, whatever you Guys call it.

If you look you'll see he's removed the engine top cover. That chewed wire is connected to the same sensor point that I used to connect my tuningbox to.

Asterix · **Reply #28: April 09, 2013, 19:49:42**

Hey Steve

Found one of Instroe's pic's on the www.

The blue square is the sensor that z240 had problems with. The sensor in the rail shown here is where my Racechip was connected.

The red lines are from Instroe's instructions, don't mind them.

Shambles · **Reply #29: April 09, 2013, 20:42:31**

I've just dug out my old thread on this (here) and I offer my apologies - you are quite right Asterix.

This was the pic I took of my tuningbox connector - it's where you said.