Cold start problem i30 crdi

Phil №❶ · **Reply #30: December 14, 2012, 07:33:58**

I understand now, the threaded bit is still on the engine, that is good, thanks for explaining.

mpacaric · **Reply #31: December 14, 2012, 07:35:29**

Quote from: Phil aka 84 on December 14, 2012, 07:33:58

I understand now, the threaded bit is still on the engine, that is good, thanks for explaining.

no problem

AlanHo · **Reply #32: December 14, 2012, 07:49:26**

I'm afraid that I don't understand this at all. Does anyone have a cross section drawing of the cylinder head to show the layout of the glow plugs?

mpacaric · **Reply #33: December 14, 2012, 07:54:39**

Well the glow plugs have let's say 3 dimensions.

http://www.globalautomotive-industry.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/2.Glow-Plug-Manufacturers.gif

1. The bigest is the head where you screw the plugs.
2. Then the part which goes into this bigger part (1)
3. This 2 part has smaller dimension on the end and only this end goes inside the chamber. (see pic)

In my case this 2 part is stuck.

AlanHo · **Reply #34: December 14, 2012, 08:09:02**

If I understand you correctly you are saying that the glow plug tip - the part that extends into the cylinder (or swirl chamber) has parted from the main body and is stuck in the cylinder head. Thus is not glowing becase it is broken from the main body.

You seem also to be saying that the tip is stepped in diameter and only the very smallest part extends into the cylinder through a close tolerance hole. Because it is broken off further back at a larger diameter section - the tip cannot fall into the cylinder.

I then guess that the reference to compression is that the garage hoped that by removing the glow plug body and cranking the engine, there would be enough compression to free the siezed tip and blow it up and out of the glow plug socket. This didn't work so they are faced with removing the cylinder head to get at it.

Meanwhile they have replaced the glow plug body to maintain compression ratio just in case the tip is loosened and to stop it blowing out of the engine.

Or have I got it wrong?

Phil №❶ · **Reply #35: December 14, 2012, 08:22:48**

That's how I understand it.

mpacaric · **Reply #36: December 14, 2012, 08:38:57**

yes, that is correct.

Shambles · **Reply #37: December 14, 2012, 08:39:24**

Quote from: Phil aka 84 on December 14, 2012, 08:22:48

That's how I understand it.

(good summary Alan, imho)

Asterix · **Reply #38: December 14, 2012, 18:54:06**

Even though they claim that the tip can't get into the combustionchamber, I would not feel good about running the engine.

If this tip is in some kind of prechamber, I would be afraid that it would rattle around in there because of the combustion pressure, and then break into smaller pieces that will eventually get into the cylinder. There will be some space between the prechamber and the cylinder to allow the heat from the glow plug to enter the cylinder.

If just a small part enters the cylinder, then...

As Alan said, a cross section drawing could maybe explain some things.

AlanHo · **Reply #39: December 14, 2012, 22:13:57**

If the arrangement of the glow plug is as I imagine - I would have no worries about running with the tip (heated element) broken where it joins the main body. The shank of the tip is way too big in diameter to slide down the hole and into the swirl chamber (if the i30 has one?) or the cylinder.

Phil №❶ · **Reply #40: December 14, 2012, 22:24:02**

And in fact, is currently seized in situ. If compression can't shift it, then there is a lengthy job ahead to fix it. It must have quite a build up of carbon deposits to lock it in like that.

Doggie 1 · **Reply #41: December 16, 2012, 05:42:10**

The carbon tax should fix it.
It's going to fix everything, apparently.

Phil №❶ · **Reply #42: December 16, 2012, 06:09:53**

where's UM

Doggie 1 · **Reply #43: December 16, 2012, 06:23:36**

Quote from: Phil aka 84 on December 16, 2012, 06:09:53

where's UM

He'll be on here duly.......

Phil №❶ · **Reply #44: December 16, 2012, 06:24:44**

Shields up, Captain

Doggie 1 · **Reply #45: December 16, 2012, 06:27:39**

I posted a special cartoon for UM in the humour section.

mantaray · **Reply #46: December 17, 2012, 05:58:10**

Quote from: db08 on December 16, 2012, 05:42:10

The carbon tax should fix it.
It's going to fix everything, apparently.

such cynicism lol

mpacaric · **Reply #47: January 17, 2013, 22:27:13**

One question. Does the head of the motor needs to be polished on a special mashine befor putting it back?

komaterpillar · **Reply #48: January 17, 2013, 23:07:52**

In short yes it should be faced, but I've done heaps of head gasket and just cleaned the head and block deck up with no issues.

Depending on head bolt style, they should be either replaced or measured for stretch and thread deformation and replaced accordingly (torque to yield bolts)

*EDIT* i should also have said, if the dealer is removing the head for any warranty work i would expect them to have the head faced before refitment

Asterix · **Reply #49: January 18, 2013, 19:42:18**

Quote from: komaterpillar on January 17, 2013, 23:07:52

In short yes it should be faced, but I've done heaps of head gasket and just cleaned the head and block deck up with no issues.

Depending on head bolt style, they should be either replaced or measured for stretch and thread deformation and replaced accordingly (torque to yield bolts)

*EDIT* i should also have said, if the dealer is removing the head for any warranty work i would expect them to have the head faced before refitment

When we did headgasket's we measured the head for planeness. if within the manufactures limits, then no machining of the head.

If headbolts are stretchbolts, then allways replace. You don't want to brake one of those.

mpacaric · **Reply #50: January 23, 2013, 15:17:05**

Just to inform you, that the guys from my service managed to get out the plug without dismantling the head

))).
They drilled a hole in the middle and build some custom tool and got it out.

Asterix · **Reply #51: January 23, 2013, 18:52:23**

Quote from: mpacaric on January 23, 2013, 15:17:05

Just to inform you, that the guys from my service managed to get out the plug without dismantling the head ))).
They drilled a hole in the middle and build some custom tool and got it out.

Would be curious to know where they drilled that hole, and how they managed to seal it again.

AlanHo · **Reply #52: January 23, 2013, 19:23:38**

Quote from: Asterix on January 23, 2013, 18:52:23

Quote from: mpacaric on January 23, 2013, 15:17:05
Just to inform you, that the guys from my service managed to get out the plug without dismantling the head ))).
They drilled a hole in the middle and build some custom tool and got it out.

Would be curious to know where they drilled that hole, and how they managed to seal it again.

I imagine they drilled a hole down the centre line of the broken tip - then used a stud extractor which would bite in the hole and give sufficient grip to rotate the tip to break the 'stiction' and pull it out.

Asterix · **Reply #53: January 23, 2013, 20:35:08**

Maybe I've misunderstood something. i thought the broken tip was loose somewhere.

If the broken tip was a threaded part, then i know how to get it out, we call that tool a "pig's cock"

Phil №❶ · **Reply #54: January 23, 2013, 21:03:10**

I tried that once, snapped the extractor.