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Cold start rattle 2012 GD Premium 1.8 auto

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Offline Hendrik1081

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G'day everyone,

My i30 has developed an ugly rattle on cold start (165k kms, full service history), I'm suspecting a dead timing chain tensioner but obviously not quite sure. Just did a service 3,000kms ago with oem oil and filter. Does anyone have a manual that describes the replacement of the tensioner? Does the whole timing chain cover need to come off? On my trusty old BMW M60 V8 the timing chain tensioner replacement took a 15 minutes, so I thought on this little pocket engine it can't be too much of a hassle? I will record a video of a cold start shortly for comparison.

Any help is appreciated.

Cheers

Hendrik
« Last Edit: July 31, 2023, 06:32:50 by Hendrik1081 »
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Offline TerryT

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Offline Hendrik1081

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Does this help?  :link: HOW TO REPLACE TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER ON HYUNDAI ELANTRA i30 - YouTube
:link: HOW TO REPLACE TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER ON HYUNDAI ELANTRA i30 - YouTube

Thanks for sharing, Terry. I am actually wondering if the rattle does not come from the timing chain but rather from the hydraulic valve lifters. It disappears after a couple of minutes. But in the beginning, it is most notable under load. Here are three videos: 1. cold start, 2. rattle under load, 3. rattle gone under same load.

1. Cold start

:link: 2012 Hyundai i30 1.8 (G4NB) Premium Auto cold start - YouTube

2. Rattle under load shortly after start

:link: Hyundai i30 G4NB engine rattle - YouTube

3. Rattle under load gone

:link: Hyundai i30 1.8 G4NB engine rattle gone - YouTube
  • 2012 GD Premium, 5 door hatch, petrol 1.8 auto, Clean Blue metallic


Offline TerryT

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I'm not good at diagnosing noises off videos (78-y-o crap ears, too many years on fast moronbikes and karts with open exhaust headers :) ) but I will try to listen more carefully again tomorrow. 

Forum members with better ears and more technical knowledge than myself would be more of help to you.

In the days of olde, mechanics would put the handle of a long-bladed screwdriver to the ear and touch the blade end to non-moving parts of a running engine to locate 'abnormal' noises.  (It helped, of course, to know what the noises should be normally!).  When I became a tool 'snob', I upgraded and bought a mechanics stethoscope.  See photo of an example below.

Removing the engine's plastic top cover and touching the valve cover may help isolate the 'ticking' noise to that area.  Touching the timing case may locate the noise there.  NOTE: If you use a stethoscope/screwdriver method, please be v-e-r-y careful of not touching any moving parts, they can rip the stethoscope very painfully out of your ears.  Ask me how I know.  Also, avoid hot parts.

It's worth a try.


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Offline TerryT

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I'm not good at diagnosing noises off videos (78-y-o crap ears, too many years on fast moronbikes and karts with open exhaust headers [EDIT: add, tinnitus] but I will try to listen more carefully again tomorrow. 

Forum members with better ears and more technical knowledge than myself would be more of help to you.

In the days of olde, mechanics would put the handle of a long-bladed screwdriver to the ear and touch the blade end to non-moving parts of a running engine to locate 'abnormal' noises.  (It helped, of course, to know what the noises should be normally!).  When I became a tool 'snob', I upgraded and bought a mechanics stethoscope [EDIT: Lisle 52750].

Removing the engine's plastic top cover and touching the valve cover may help isolate the 'ticking' noise to that area.  Touching the timing case may locate the noise there.  NOTE: If you use a stethoscope/screwdriver method, please be v-e-r-y careful of not touching any moving parts, they can rip the stethoscope very painfully out of your ears.  Ask me how I know.  Also, avoid hot parts.


@Hendrik1081.  I was hoping someone else might have chimed in by now and saved me the embarrassment. :undecided:   I had another listen.  I'll say valve lifters. 

Have you 'stethoscoped' the engine (see my first post)?
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Offline TerryT

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@Hendrik1081.  Something I forgot to mention in my post above. 

Your Video #1 'noise' at cold start was recorded in the quiet of the garage, with the bonnet open and from close range.  Videos #2 & #3 were recorded driving on the street with the bonnet closed (and presumably the windows closed?)  and taken from inside the vehicle.  Videos #2 & #3 are definitely useful to compare but comparing Video #1 with Videos #2 & #3 is not quite like comparing apples with apples.  Not a criticism, just a casual observation. :goodjob2:

Have you found the source of the 'noise' (and just as importantly, how?  :)
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Offline The Gonz

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Offline Hendrik1081

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Hey Terry,

I haven't found the source yet - I was hoping valve lifters, tried Liqui Moly additive, hasn't made a change. Tomorrow I will do a diesel flush and oil change to see if that helps, but my suspicion is still chain tensioner. The noise really is only apparent in the first few minutes of driving and then only under load, so my best guess is that it takes a while for the tensioner to get sufficient oil pressure...

But first of all, I am getting a auto trans oil change in the morning. And my driver window stopped working yesterday - another thing to waste my time on.  :Shocked:

@Hendrik1081.  Something I forgot to mention in my post above. 

Your Video #1 'noise' at cold start was recorded in the quiet of the garage, with the bonnet open and from close range.  Videos #2 & #3 were recorded driving on the street with the bonnet closed (and presumably the windows closed?)  and taken from inside the vehicle.  Videos #2 & #3 are definitely useful to compare but comparing Video #1 with Videos #2 & #3 is not quite like comparing apples with apples.  Not a criticism, just a casual observation. :goodjob2:

Have you found the source of the 'noise' (and just as importantly, how?  :)
  • 2012 GD Premium, 5 door hatch, petrol 1.8 auto, Clean Blue metallic


Offline TerryT

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@Hendrik1081.  Thanks for the update, disappointing as it is for you at the moment.  I hope the diesel flush and oil changes solve the issue.  Please let the forum know.

Sorry, I cannot help with your windows problem, electrical stuff is a big no-no with me.  (I still don't know how I survived my early years fiddling around with high performance ignition systems.  Actually, I do know...my fellow spanner-mates just stopped me from playing with the things!).

So, you got a noise problem, then a windows problem.  They say bad things come in threes, so fingers crossed!  (I met my wife-to-be.  Got engaged.  Got married!  :wink:)
  • 2018 i30 PD SR Auto 1.6 Turbo Hatch (Sparkling Metal)


Offline TerryT

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@Hendrik1081.  Thanks for the update, disappointing as it is for you at the moment.  I hope the diesel flush and oil changes solve the issue.  Please let the forum know.


@ Hendrik1081.  Did you isolate your noise problem?
  • 2018 i30 PD SR Auto 1.6 Turbo Hatch (Sparkling Metal)


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