So, tomorrow ordering, this will be longest 45-60 days in my life :D
Great engine, nice color :) 2.0 CRDI's have 6-speed transmission?
Yes, now you reminded me about the brakes too. I was also used to my previous cars brakes, and even those weren't at their best, so the first kilometer was quite interesting :D
Turanza should be much much better, even though the Hankook's (you have them on now, right?) aren't that bad, when new. Your fuel economy will improve, your parking too :P Just joking :mrgreen:
Post some more pictures :wink:
The brakes got me at the start too, but they soon bed in and feel normal.
Having 2.0 for urban traffic is total overkill
undulating roads do take a toll on the economy..
undulating roads do take a toll on the economy..
How comes that with a diesel? Supposing that with speeds above 50km/h you can drive all the way with 4-5th gear, even on twisted roads. Maybe, a rally driv... :idea: Aha!...
I've done 1150km so far is it too early for a constant of 160kph on 55km highway?
I've done 1150km so far is it too early for a constant of 160kph on 55km highway?
Although modern engines are already tested and ready-to-run from the factory, even the manufacturer himself cannot ensure the perfection of every single engine produced, so, a run-in for the first 1.000-1.500km on the car, ensures optimal running.
That is, in the right order:
1. (in a 50km long road with light or no traffic) persistently accelerate to 50% of max rpm, for 10-15sec max (so the engine won't overheat), using every gear from 2nd and above. Important: whenever acceleration completes, (with gear in) let the engine to decelerate the car for at least 15-20sec (this way, sub-pressure weeds out any scraps from cylinders). After this procedure, you may want to change oil and filter (if you don't, that's ok)
2. for the first 1.000-1.500km, don't exceed the 50% of max rpm (rpm limiter)
As soon as the run-in completes, you MUST change oils and filter. Then you can do -almost- anything you want but you shouldn't expect the engine to give its best untill it reaches several thousand kms.
I've done 1150km so far is it too early for a constant of 160kph on 55km highway?
Although modern engines are already tested and ready-to-run from the factory, even the manufacturer himself cannot ensure the perfection of every single engine produced, so, a run-in for the first 1.000-1.500km on the car, ensures optimal running.
That is, in the right order:
1. (in a 50km long road with light or no traffic) persistently accelerate to 50% of max rpm, for 10-15sec max (so the engine won't overheat), using every gear from 2nd and above. Important: whenever acceleration completes, (with gear in) let the engine to decelerate the car for at least 15-20sec (this way, sub-pressure weeds out any scraps from cylinders). After this procedure, you may want to change oil and filter (if you don't, that's ok)
2. for the first 1.000-1.500km, don't exceed the 50% of max rpm (rpm limiter)
As soon as the run-in completes, you MUST change oils and filter. Then you can do -almost- anything you want but you shouldn't expect the engine to give its best untill it reaches several thousand kms.
Unfortunately no one almost changes oil at 1.000-2.000 kms' over here (probably also not in Croatia) - including me. I didn't even know that in some countries they do that. If you ask it at the service, they almost "make fun of you" because you want to change the oil in the brand new car. Well, maybe not all services are like that, just the ones I've been at. So I changed mine at around 7 or 8.000 km's, but people mostly change it at 15.000 or 20.000 kms.
.... (but i don't bet for it, thus don't try it at home :mrgreen:)
5000km reached :mrgreen:
Running like a charm, will have to leave it alone more often because otherwise i'll get to 100k within 2 years and thats a huge NO NO! :D
One question, is this engine SOHC or DOHC?
Whats the difference between SOHC 16valve and DOHC 16valve?
Isnt a greater stress on belt with 16 valves and SOHC?
I ask that because all reviews i have seen said that it is upgraded older CRDi engine with dual camshaft and variable geometry turbine, and from looks of it comments are that it is a single camshaft....
Looks like you were right Lorian (think we'll have to start calling you "wiki" :eek:)
Do you have any movies of acceleration..50-90, 80-120, 120-160..? :wink:
Is yours a black or hyper silver?
Is yours a black or hyper silver?
Didnt get that :question:
Gr8 post glad to see you back..
The Turbo stifles a lot of the noise from the engine so a free flowing exhaust from the Catalyst Converter back only slightly increases the exhaust noise.. :cool:
I'm baaaack :D
... I'm not so much keen about the seat covers :wink:Me too, but now i have a nice, big smut of chocolate on the back seat :confused:
Future "work" include LSD insert
hahahah babis_xo, i NEVER met a Greek who is not on some kind of shit, atleast ganja. :rofl: :goodjob::o Shouldn't you be worried about whom you hang out with? :rofl:
Did the figures for the last 17,000Km in the CW auto and the average was 6.13 Lt/100Km. :faint:
G'day. Bunch of questions if you don't mind. I'm a new member & am waiting delivery of i30 CW SLX CRDi 1.6 auto. I am interested in the chip mentioned. Is it a real chip update, or one of those plug in ones. Not sure what LSD refers to. Is it a limited slip diff, a dose of drugs, or a private joke. Would anybody recommend a plug in tuning box. The claims made seem to be unbelievable. Thanks.
Happy for you :goodjob:
I've never heard of BCM before (though I'm aware of Shakira's & JLo's resembling modules :lol: )
I am quite satisfied with the CC on my i30, but I can get better mileage without activating it (especially on hills, where you instinctively drop the speed a bit, while the CC maintains it.
CC only has some hickups when driving downhill on the motorway, where it slighty oscillates. I prefer to deactivate it in such conditions.
its excellent in a long drive,well it is the wife's car. :whistler: :goodjob: my hatch has only my leg and foot as cruise control. :lol: :twisted:I am quite satisfied with the CC on my i30, but I can get better mileage without activating it (especially on hills, where you instinctively drop the speed a bit, while the CC maintains it.
CC only has some hickups when driving downhill on the motorway, where it slighty oscillates. I prefer to deactivate it in such conditions.
So in general the difference is small and not worth 400 euro investment to get it?
@2i30s
Excellent in what way? Relaxing to the driver? Or excellent in term of economy?
I ask this specificly since i like to drive and have absolutely no problem with pressing the pedal myself hehehe...but if the diff in economy is significant to justify 400euro expense then thats it.
My Blue Lady again gives me headache hehehehehe....after USB stick got fried, now i have nail in tyre :happydance:
I guess its those days of month, i wonder what will she next throw at me :rofl:
The pic has disappeared from post #1 :rolleyes:
A bit said news, my stick got most likely fried today.Maybe it was actually fried if you park the car under direct sunlight?
I was driving on highway and listening the usb music and suddenly *krck* and no music. Radio works. USB not.
Tried USB at home on my pc and no use. So its dead.
Only thing i can think of why is dead is next:
-in manual is said that you must first start vehicle then input USB, or first remove usb then turn the car off. I did not do that. I just left it plugged in always.
I like your wheels and the nice building behind the car in the 2nd photo .. :goodjob:
I like your wheels and the nice building behind the car in the 2nd photo .. :goodjob:Not uncle Tom's cabin...
Hi boyz and girlz, im back :evil:Do you mean summer Hankook tires?
Nothing new on the car, i know, shocking :faint:
....tho, in a week will test drive 17" to try to see if difference is big enough to make me poor :rofl: :rofl: + one more thing, but details when it happens.
On winter tires now and must say 100000000 times better then Hankook. Friendly advice: get rid of hankook now all!!!!
Three times almost accident coz of them, 2 times LSD saved me, and once superb brakes on i30.
Cheers!!
Yes, summer tire Hankook Optimo K415 205/55 R16.Hm, I have never had any problems while passing through the puddles.
Even remote grip simple does not exist in any wet conditions with this tire. For dry almost every tire is decent.
Thats what i meant.
PS
Forgot to write about bloody chestnut tree, i parked under one a and ofc one huge had to fall on the roof and dent it :blubber: :blubber: :blubber: