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Gidday crew,

About 6 weeks ago I serviced our 2013 GD wagon, 1.6 litre, auto

Engine oil and filter, air filter, fresh iridium plugs [clearance same as the old iridium plugs / as per the book]
Cabin filter, skimmed the front disks, new brake pads all corners, fresh brake fluid etc.

Since then, my petrol consumption has worsened markedly.

Even to the point that when I refill the tank [to the second "click"], the "range predictor" in the dash now estimates a bit over 500km with the full tank, instead of the previous being between 590 / 625ish.

Previously, half a tank would last me a week, now nowhere near that.


Same routes, same traffic, same tyre pressure, same load ...

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Good morning all,

I have a 16 GD SR Premium, which I am considering replacing the original 17x7 rims for 18s, as it is nearing time to replace the tyres anyway.

I am considering, among other options, later model Hyundai 18s, eg. i20N, i30N, i30 N-line, so as to keep the OEM style.

Given that the factory GD SR Premium rim is 17x7 +51 offset (I believe), would the 18x7.5 +53 offset rim from the i20N or PD i30 SR fit?
The clearance between the wheel/tyre and strut will decrease by 8mm based on the offset and width difference, I am just not sure how much clearance there is with the standard rim to begin with.

The i30 sedan N-line rims are 18x7.5, but the offset of +55 decreases the clearance bet...

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Just wondering how others with similar cars find their AC performance? Mines working, but not super cold (some cars I’ve driven it can get too cold).
I find it can take a while to cool the car down and take the edge off, and never really gets to that ice cold air coming out of the vent point.
I gave the condenser a good clean but that didn’t help much, and there are no signs of any leaks, but wondering if it could benefit from being re-gassed given its 14 years old?
Are there any known issues with the AC system in the GD's?

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Hey guys, looking for a bit of help... My MK1 2010 I30 failed its MOT on:-
Steering column attachment defective excessive play (2.2.2 (d) (i)) [MAJOR]
I now need a "UJ Joint" for the steering Collunm, and apparently they're really hard to come by for this specific model... I live in Leeds, UK but will happly purchase one from abroad if needed. Does anyone know where I can find one? I'm really struggling to find one!

This is a picture of what I need

Thanks in advance,
Robbie

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Car bleeps when shifting into reverse, and shows the ghost sensor image on the dashboard.
Front two sensors working correctly and pulsing/vibration when touching them.
No pulse/vibration on any of the 4 reverse sensors.

From a few videos I've seen it may be the reverse loom connection, but cant find a way to access it.

Any advice or guidance appreciated

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Hello team. Strange issue with my i30 PD 2018. Tonight, got in to go pick up my daughter & screen was blank. It lit up with the splash screen after ~5 minutes. But; could only hear the radio with very low volume, no button worked & it said it couldn’t connect to my iPod. Then a screen with device ID & software/firmware/Micom version appeared - and that was it.

Tried the soft reset & it came back with “Battery discharge warning! Please use the system with engine running”. Then went to the serial screen again.

Was serviced 4 weeks ago. I had driven ~120kms throughout today. Battery was replaced Jan 2024. She’s starting & driving without issue. The only thing I have done is ~2 weeks ago I replaced boot lamp & an interio...

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I’ve been searching for awhile and trying the procedures I’ve come across (turn key to on position, full down for a few seconds, full up for a few seconds, etc). But none have worked for me.


I just replaced the front passenger window regulator for the nth time (damn guides keep breaking) but this time once I pull the window up (auto up), once the window reaches the top it seems to trigger the auto pinch function and comes down halfway.


I can get the window to fully close with the 1st detent on the switch (manual up) but not with the auto up.


How can i fix this? First time this has happened to me after owning the car from brand new and having replaced DIY myself both driver and passenger wi...

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Hello,

My i30 1.6L GDI engine has began emitting metal knocking sounds after about 20 minutes of driving from a cold start. The knocks happen only at 1500 to 2000 RPM. The knocks don't happen all the time, but mostly when driving in the city when traffic speed is low.

I have replaced the spark plugs and ignition coils with a brand new ones, cleaned up the throttle body but the knocking still persists. Will be happy to know if you experienced such issues with the 1.6L GDI engine or have a suggestion how to fix the issue.

thanks,
Yaniv

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Good morning. Here is a link to a video on how to clean the MAP sensor in the 1.4 MPI G4FA engine of the Hyundai i30 GD:



Best regards

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Hi!

I really hope someone with great experience can help me out with your knowledge and experience about my issue.

I bought a used Hyundai i30 CRDi 2013 year model a few months back from a car dealer with 130.000km on it. From what I remember the gears went smooth (easy to move the gear stick) but the clutch engagement point was very very low to the floor.
A mechanic said that the clutch needed to be changed, but they also said that the gearbox was leaking oil from several spots so they needed to change that to.
They changed both the gearbox and the clutch.

When I got the car back I immediately noticed that it was quite hard to engage first gear, I needed to push the gear stick quite rough to get ...