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Hi all,
My i30 is now 10 years old and on 85k miles. Has anyone had any experience with getting the timing chain changed on a 1.6 crdi engine or is it not necessary? I ask, as having been a previous owner of an N47 BMW engine, I know the risks of neglecting to change a timing chain (despite there still being a consensus that it doesn’t need to be changed and it’s lifetime). Whilst I don’t have any chain noise on my vehicle, it’s something I want to at least think about. If anyone has had it done, can you share where you have had it done and how much it cost? It seems there is a lack of any Hyundai / Ki specialists (outside of main dealers) in the UK. Not sure a local Indy would tackle such a job.

Thanks in advance!

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My oil  filter removal is blocked by some electrical connections...and I am worried about breaking something to  get it loose ..... Any tips.?
Also the filter needs a 27 mm socket. I was surprised at the odd number.....how many people have a 27 mm socket laying around?
see photo

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Hey all,

Would anyone be able to help me understand what wheels/rims I need to buy that will fit my car? I have a 2018 SR DCT. I have no idea how wheel sizes work but after reading about bold patterns and all the different numbers I need to be aware of I’m slight overwhelmed trynna figure it out. Have searched on here for some idea but can’t find a good answer. For reference the tyres I have on currently are 225/40R18. Rims are stock and I’m not really a fan, want to go black. I considered painting them myself but seems like a hassle to take them all off and then potentially f**k it up. Any help would be appreciated.

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Hi all, first time posting.

i30 Wagon, GD, 1.6ltr auto.

Starts fine, accelerates fine until it hits 3000rpm and cuts fuel (not fully), then acceleration is sluggish.

Initially thought it was missing so replaced plugs and ignition coils.

Does this in auto, or sitting in neutral or or manual shift of auto (tried to see if it was anything to do with box)

Thoughts? Is this limp mode? No engine light, buying a fault code reader tomorrow.

Assuming something is telling the ECU to cut fuel?

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Hello guys, my first post here 

So, I've been having issues with P0404 error code on my Hyundai i30 FD, 1.6 CRDi, 66 kW. I've found some old threads that were discussing this issue, but can't find a clear solution to this problem, so I was wondering if someone had the same issue quite recently and managed to fix it.

Pretty much the deal is when outside temperature is above 20 degrees celsius, car tends to go into safe mode or "limp mode" where you have decreased engine power and rev limiter set to 3000 rpm. Sometimes CEL comes on when car gets into safe mode sometimes it doesn't.

What I've tried is to open up the EGR valve and it was absolutely filled with deposits to the point where the valve couldn'...

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My first post...

My 2018  2.0 Petrol I 30 is using around 1ltr of oil every 1800klms. It has done 150,000 k's.  I bought it second hand with18,000 k's on the clock.  It started using oil early on and it has gradually got worse.  I have tried all the things suggested by the local brains trust including, changing oil brands and grades ,more frequent servicing (every 8000k's) and engine flushes. None of them made a difference.

Hyundai said it was was not a warranty issue when it was under warranty.  They suggest engine removal, strip down and a measure is needed to determine the problem.  Hyundai ( head office and the local dealer) will not acknowledge it is known problem despite there being a class action of other people...

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Hi everyone, please bear with me...this is my first post.

My 2012 CRDi blue drive active has taken to bunny hopping when temperatures get to around 18°C (& above).
It starts up ok in all weathers and doesn't do this in cold/cool weather, just when the mercury starts to rise.
There's no particular speed at which it gets worse/better, and causes a bit of drag on the acceleration/drive, but then seems to settle down after a few minutes (maybe 5?)
It's as if fuel is struggling to get through, but I can't understand this as I thought fuel got thinner in warmer weather and therefore flows easier (please correct me if I'm wrong...and if this is indeed the problem I have 🙈).
It's frustrating, but also concerning as I...

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Hi All,

I am a very recent i30 owner, and as such, very new to this forum.

I already love my i30, but it has one issue im trying to resolve. Under acceleration, between 40 and 50 mph there is quite a pronounced wobble in the car. Feels like it's wobbling side to side. I dont feel it through the steering wheel really, more like just the car is wobbling side to side slightly.

Been doing lots of reading up on it and based on that I am coming to the conclusion that it might be a worn inner CV joint on a drive shaft. I have been under the car and recorded a video of me manipulating the OSF inner CV joint side of the drive shaft, there is very slight play with an audible click sound when moving it back and forward...

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Hello
Does anyone know how to enable Auto hold to be alway On. And Drive mode to stay on Normal after restarting the car.

Drive mode is keep resetting to ECO when turn off and turn back on again.

I just bought an i30 DCT Premium Hybrid and I am still trying to figure it out. I checked the manual and says that those two should remain with their last setting and not reset.

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I'm at my wits end. I have a 2017 i30 PD, dual clutch transmission hatchback, and last year I had to have the entire transmission replaced after only having driven 30,000km (I am the only owner and don't drive it like an idiot). The issue was that the orange lights on the dashboard would light up, and when I put the car into reverse or drive, it would not move. Sometimes it revved, other times it did not.

The cost - which was covered by Hyundai, thankfully - was around $8000. I had to pay for labour ($800) 

Last week, I turn my car on, I have a dashboard full of orange lights and the telltale not moving when I put it into reverse. It's undriveable because it's not safe, and I've also lost power while I've bee...