[Waja]

Hey everyone!

I have a quick question, I am looking at new speakers but was told by a pro audio dealer that sometimes its better just to deaden the doors rather than upgrading the speakers.

I have been doing some research and was wondering if anyone has any opinions about what is good budget deadening? I know that Dynamat is the industry standard but I have also seen on ebay this kit: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/07-10-Hyundai-i30-Custom-DIY-Soundproof-Kit-08-09-/140395474650?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20b038eeda#ht_2815wt_872

Dynamat is looking at about $170 for five sheets which is just for the front doors which I have to install myself; where as this kit here will do all the doors and the trunk (I contacted shark racing and they said they will exclude the hood dampener for $15 off) thus looking at about $160AUD. This kit seems to be ? fabric. I was told that sound deadening just needs to add weight/extra material to the door to prevent reverberation etc. Is this true and would this kit work?

Some other alternatives that I have seen on some audio forums are for some cheap deadening from bunnings which can be picked up for $30 which will do the front doors but they say that the older ones have a tar backing which might smell or they don't stick as well.

Could someone point me in the right direction that would be a good starting point of what deadening to pick before changing the speakers?

Thanks for your help!

[Dazzler]

Hope that someone who can help will see this..

Try searching the forum.. over a year ago someone did post a fair bit about sound deadening 

I will edit this post if I find it!

Here is one but not very specific (might find more)

https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=3096.msg28907#msg28907

Here's another...

https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=6612.0

I'm sure there was one with photos but couldn't find it with a quick search using Sound Deadening or Sound proofing 

[eye30]

Here is a really simple mod job for no cost.. 

Get pieces of the white foam stuff that comes as packaging when you but goods.

Just put this around the speakers in the door as the theory is that it will reduce the vibration.

I haven't tried it but the theory sounds right.

[Waja]

Thanks Dazz and eye30 for the ideas!

I looked at those threads earlier, and bobbyd was using Dynamat (too expensive for a simple upgrade like I am intending!) and ibratoev brought up the shark racing sound deadening but no one said if they think it is rubbish or not.

Would foam just around the speaker stop vibration? I thought that it would be required on the majority of the door panel as the vibrations would travel through the whole panel? I should give it a try one of these weekends =)

[Surferdude]

Let us know how you go.

[eye30]

Would foam just around the speaker stop vibration? I thought that it would be required on the majority of the door panel as the vibrations would travel through the whole panel? I should give it a try one of these weekends =)

I can only view from pictures posted on the forum but would have thought that the gap behind the door is not very wide and by inserting foam in the space may not be effective.

In my view the foam around the speakers would reduce the vibration between them and the door panels.

If you decide to give it a try, whatever method you try, don't forget to update.

[Doggie 1]

I'm not sure if my memory serves me correctly, but I seem to recall something about a warning re changing speakers in that they are pop-rivetted in and to not let the rivets drop to the bottom of the door as they might cause rust if left there.
I may stand corrected, but it's just something that stuck in my mind to remind myself of if ever I upgraded mine.
Having said that, I'm as handy as a pocket on a singlet so I may be way off the mark 

[Dazzler]

There was mention of the speakers being riveted in (I assume that is still the case)

If you drilled the rivets out and removed the speakers you would have access to vacuum any debris from the door channels...

[Hati]

I have changed the speakers in the front doors. The speakers are glued into a plastic riser, which is riveted onto the door inner skin. The rivets are aluminium, so no chance of rusting even if you don't clean them out. They could rattle though.


You can cut the speakers out from the plastic riser but with the 3 way Kenwood speakers I used, you would not have clearance under the door skin. I cut out some MDF rings to replace the riser.


All this on a 2011 June built CW SX.

[Dazzler]

3 way Kenwoods  Have you noticed a big improvement in the sound?

[Hati]

I did Dazzler. Much clearer and more defined sound, but the base is not very strong. When you play with front to rear fade, the original speakers in the rear doors sound like sick (as in ill, not as in cool) subwoofers compared to the new ones. You would really want a dedicated sub, but I don't use the radio that much to be worth it.


Without an amp running the new speakers there is no rattling at all even at  3/4 of maximum volume.

[Dazzler]

What sort of $$ did you spend Hati? (If you don't mind me asking) ...and how big a job was it?

[Hati]

I caught a special at my local JB for $74, down from $99. These are the ones. The midrange/tweeter assembly is angled up a little that seems to make an audible difference.


Thanks to the thread on this forum depicting the removal of the door skin, the job was easy enough. Took a while to work out the fitting on the first door. I wanted to use the original plastic riser, but test fitting revealed that clearance would be an issue, hence using MDF rings. The second door took quarter of the time, all up a couple of hours including coffee. I soldered the wires onto the speakers.


On the hind side, you could easily fit 8" speakers too, the hole in the inner skin is quite big. I wanted to get Alpine speakers at first, not knowing that the 6" size limit applies only if you want to use the plastic riser. Alpine only make 6.5" and up. Oh well, it is still a major improvement over the stock paper speakers.

[Ultralights]

The rivets are aluminium, so no chance of rusting even if you don't clean them out. They could rattle though.

what about dissimilar metal corrosion?  Aluminium + steel + conductor(eg water)= corrosion (rust)

[Dazzler]

Thanks for the info Hati (Good value upgrade at what you paid )

[Hati]

what about dissimilar metal corrosion?  Aluminium + steel + conductor(eg water)= corrosion (rust)

The inside of the door is fully painted, so there is no metal to metal contact. On the top of that they used some sort of liquid grease  to waterproof the bottom joint of the inner and outer metal sheets of the door.


Glad my experience is useful to some, Dazzler 

[Dazzler]

Glad my experience is useful to some, Dazzler 

Many will read it and use it without commenting 

[Hati]

Referred to those who don't mind the tinkering 

[Waja]

Thanks for the replies everyone!

I am tossing up between either deadening or replacing the stock cones and tweeter with crescendo opus 1's. Either those or a new camera lens

Did you consider deadening at all before changing your speakers Hati?

[Hati]

Did you consider deadening at all before changing your speakers Hati?

No, I didn't. I grew out of the mad audiophile stage, these days I turn off the radio more just to get some peace and quiet. The other reason is that I never planned to amplify the speakers, so no real issues with vibration were expected. Proven correct with this one.

[syecadelic]

BUMP:
Ive purchased some Rattlemat off eBay (cheaper alternative to Dynamat i think)

Going to do the whole boot(trunk) area this weekend hopefully, I have 3 subs and have taken out the fabric to re-arrange the build, its incredible how much road noise you can hear from just removing the black moulding (fabric)
first step is to sound proof the spare wheel well, inner quarter pannels. Depending on whats left the doors and maybe, if I can remove the headliner, the ceiling also.

Anyone removed the headliner yet? Shall maybe do a separate post.

[Dazzler]

Anyone removed the headliner yet? Shall maybe do a separate post.

Like I said in the other post.. Ask at a smash repair place they would be doing it all the time...

[bobbyd]

The whole idea with sound deadening is that you add weight and a non harmonic substance to panels that would otherwise transfer a lot of noise and at times begin harmonic vibration.  I put dynamat through the floor and rear of my I30 and have bought more to do the doors, i get a lot of road noise with my 18 inch tyres and suspect this is coming through the doors- but if your going to add decent speakers, put some sound proofing in also- you'll get much better bass response, it stops the door from vibrating/harmonics at loud volume and the car sounds less like a car as far as audio goes.

On a bit of a side note- I also have a Holden colorado, it was making a god awful droning noise at 2500rpm right on 110-115 km/h.  The dealer put some rubber material behind the front crash protection bar (behind the plastic bumper) and most of the droning is now gone- its simple harmonics.  Deadening the doors does something similar albeit more form the speaker point of view than engine vibration.

You wont fined any high end audio installs done without sound deadening, its not voodoo medicine, it work but yes it is pricey for decent stuff, the dynamat weighs heaps so freight would be costly