[Paolo5]

My Getz was purchased secondhand 31/2 years ago. It had done 60K then. It has now done about 115K.

The clutch right from 60K wasn't slipping but there was definite juddering on occasional take-offs. The release point was right near the top of the clutch pedal's travel.

I had a new Exedy clutch fitted to my Getz yesterday by my mechanic. The flywheel was machined. The old surface of the flywheel was scorched in many places (mechanic said that this would have caused the juddering) and the actual clutch was diagnosed as about 60% worn.

The cluch action is much better with the new clutch...no juddering....but the release point is STILL UP HIGH!!! 

I am surprised and a bit disappointed that the release point is still not where a normal clutch should be.

I know that I can adjust the pedal height, which is currently level with the brake pedal. The mechanic said that there also is adjustment in the back of the master cylinder that he can effect.

Cruiserfied....or anyone else out there...does anyone know if either/both of these adjustments are what would need to be tweaked to bring my new clutch's release point to where it should be....much closer to the floor?

Thanks,
Paolo

[cruiserfied]

The master cylinder adjustment is what you want.
Your mechanic should have checked and adjusted as part of clutch replacement. A poorly adjusted clutch could cause premature wear on your new clutch.

[Paolo5]

Thanks Cruiserfied.
Is this adjustment something that has easy access?

[cruiserfied]

Yes and no.
You can SEE it if you twist upside down and crawl around the floor, then give yourself a reach-around to get a torch in there.
Adjusting is another story.....

[Paolo5]

Yes and no.
You can SEE it if you twist upside down and crawl around the floor, then give yourself a reach-around to get a torch in there.
Adjusting is another story.....

Is it the rod that comes out of the centre of the back of the master cylinder that I am looking for?

Is it an "undo the locknut, rotate the rod a number of turns and then nip up the locknut" type of procedure?

[cruiserfied]

Yeah that's it.

[Paolo5]

I know that I can adjust the pedal height, which is currently level with the brake pedal. The mechanic said that there also is adjustment in the back of the master cylinder that he can effect.

Hi Cruiserfied,
Thanks for your help. I am a bit confused and hope that you can help me one more time....

As far as I can understand, this adjustment on the length of the rod coming out of the back of the clutch master cylinder  (which connects onto the underside of the clutch pedal via a clevis pin through both sides of the rod's fork) mentioned above is:-
*both the pedal height adjustment AND
*the point where I can adjust where the clutch releases.

Is this correct?

If so, does more pedal freeplay equate to lower clutch release point or higher clutch release point?


Many thanks,
Paolo

[cruiserfied]

You'll have to remind me. Is the pedal height set by an adjustable stop bolt or by the master cylinder rod?

[Paolo5]

The pedal height is set by lengthening or shortening (screwing out or screwing in.... relative to the pedal) the master cylinder rod.

[cruiserfied]

Ah well there's not much you can do with that. You could lower your pedal height which would lower the pickup point but it wouldn't change the distance to top of pedal stroke. And you would loose down stroke.

[Paolo5]

Are all Getz clutch release points like mine? (I have only driven the one Getz)

Can you think of any reason why it would be like this with a new clutch?

Cheers,
Paolo

[cruiserfied]

Without driving yours it's hard to say. A "normal" Getz clutch pickup point is fairly central of pedal stroke.

[Aussie Keith]

A quick google search suggests properly bleeding the clutch hydraulics may bring about the adjustment you require. Have a look around the interwebz and see what you think.

[Lakes]

Don't be a clutch jockey & they last. but no torque motors like small petrol always need some clutch riding or the motor stalls
just let clutch out till it starts to engage so don't matter were it is.

[Lorian]

A quick google search suggests properly bleeding the clutch hydraulics may bring about the adjustment you require. Have a look around the interwebz and see what you think.

Normally if there is air in the clutch hydraulics the bite point seems low not high. But its worth trying anyway.

I'd certainly try bleeding the slave cylinder as people often fail to do it, and it's the easiest bleed to do. It's the same as a normal bleed, but when your friend pushes the clutch pedal down, they hold it down, and you pull on the slave crank arm to push the rod back into the slave, and any air in the slave will come straight out the bleed nipple (assuming you open it lol).

[Dazzler]

Sounds bleedin' complicated to a non-mechanic! 

[Paolo5]

 Update: I set the pedal height and freeplay according to the dimensions set out in the link that Phil sent to me in a PM and all is well in the land of Getz....behold....a normal release point!



I tip my hat to ya, Phil!!!! 

[Dazzler]

Update: I set the pedal height and freeplay according to the dimensions set out in the link that Phil sent to me in a PM and all is well in the land of Getz....behold....a normal release point!



I tip my hat to ya, Phil!!!! 

 

Good onya Phil! 

[rustynutz]

 

[neptune]

Seems that Phil has some hidden talent.... 

[Phil №❶]

Not really, just a bit if info. I didn't put it in the forum because the car involved was a Getz and I wasn't too sure if it would benefit anyone else or an i30 owner would try to use it. It is available for other members, just PM me.