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Offline martyni30

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 Hi there to all the fellow i30Er's really like the forum,I just picked up a 2011 i30 tourer in Metallic Steel which I'm loving 1 owner from new 45,000 miles, full dealer history with 5 stamps in the book.
What I want to do is fit a set of DRL's to it has anyone  done this I want it to look like it has been factory fitted and not just added to it as an after thought any ideas or help would be really welcomed.
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Offline wbm00

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Hi Martyn and welcome :razz:
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Offline Dazzler

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Welcome  Martyn. I really like the look of factory DRL's but seeing as the series 1 (FD) models didn't have them as standard might be a big ask to make them look "factory"

I would try an ebay search and a google search for DRL's to suit FD Hyundai i30 and see what comes up.
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Offline martyni30

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Thanks for the welcome I had a look around and found that Osram does a round DRL's/fog light set that fits into the front fog space,there not cheap at £300 but I'll have to do a bit more of a read up on them from what I've seen of them they look really good and as they fit into the original fog light space  it should look like they are meant to be there.
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Offline Dazzler

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Sounds promising, but top $ considering install cost needs to be added. Please keep us posted regarding details like whether it includes wiring and switches etc.. :goodjob:
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Offline ibrokeit

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Welcome martyni30

Yeah that is the major issue - most actual DRLs don't look factory on the i30 (or (EDIT:), if mounted behind/through the bumper,  would require extensive work to the impact absorbing foam/polystyrene behind it to both fit and have sufficient cooling - and that could lead to road worthiness and/or insurance issues).  I say 'actual DRLs' as there are a number of kits you can fit in the headlight enclosures many of which seem to use the term DRL as part of marketing, but best as I can tell are more cosmetic than anything else - i.e. they get attention close up - such as when stopped; but at motorway/arterial road speeds won't draw any attention.   Putting it another way - most actual DRLs are as bright or brighter, or appear to be, than low and/or high beams; most of the kits for the headlight enclosures are no where near that intensity (probably due to size/look constraints preventing use of an effective heat-sink)

Of course using the fog light space might cause problems in some jurisdictions - if they still get considered to be fog lights, or are perceived as such by officers of the law.   Around here there is a bit of a campaign on about fog light use - being there are so many people who seem to think 'more lights make me cooler' while not realising the lenses/setup (due to their purpose) of fog lights can dazzle other drivers when not used in fog... or maybe they do realise and that is why they do it.   Having said that I suspect it would only really be a problem/attract attention (if it was going to) if they didn't dim when the main headlights are turned on - that appears to be a requirement in many jurisdictions... dimming of DRLs when headlights in use.   In which case if pulled up for fog light use it could be easily demonstrated they aren't - by demonstrating they increase in brightness when headlights are turned off.

Anyway look forward to seeing what other information you find out about making DRLs look factory and/or the Osram set.
« Last Edit: March 25, 2016, 12:09:02 by ibrokeit »
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Offline Dazzler

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Gareth raises a good point. If you install them they will have to go off or at least dim significantly when the headlights come on.
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Offline Phil №❶

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DRL's do not burn hot. The characteristics of led's allow high light output for minimal heat output. Conventional globes heat a wire to white hot in order to produce light, led's do not. Having said that, the new headlamp bulbs are commonly fitted with a heat sink, or a fan due to extremely high output requirements.
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Offline martyni30

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I found this video about the DRL/ fog light units  that I was thinking about :link: OSRAM FOG DRL Installation - YouTube
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Offline Dazzler

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Great find Martyn but not sure the look is worth the effort and cost. DRL's are a bit compact for my taste (I like a longer string)

But it is your car and your taste.

I think I would just try and find a very white replacement globe for your Fog lights and see if an auto electrician could modify the switching to use them as DRL's maybe?
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Offline rustynutz

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FD model fog lights aren't round so I'm not sure how you'd fit those Osram ones...  :undecided:


Offline ibrokeit

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DRL's do not burn hot. The characteristics of led's allow high light output for minimal heat output. Conventional globes heat a wire to white hot in order to produce light, led's do not. Having said that, the new headlamp bulbs are commonly fitted with a heat sink, or a fan due to extremely high output requirements.

I will first note that in my post I appear to have lost the words 'if mounted behind/through the bumper'... it probably reads better/clearer as (and I will edit appropriately):
Quote
...on the i30 (or, if mounted behind/through the bumper, would require extensive work to the impact absorbing foam/polystyrene behind it to both fit and have sufficient cooling - and that...
   With the implication being aftermarkets mounted internally to the bumper would look more factory/OEM.  I am assuming from drawings that the impact absorbing material does come close up behind the bumper in various places (other than venting for radiator airflow).



Having said that...

The aftermarket examples I have seen tend to have some form of heatsink 'ribbing' to their rear-casings (maybe that doesn't apply to others).   Case in point - Philips 8 DRLs fitted to a member's i30... :link: DRLs and spotlights fitted

Any sufficiently bright LED (whatever the lighting situation) needs some form of heat-sinking (due to high output requirements) as the diode junction(s) (there can be more than one junction embedded in once package and appearing to be one LED) will heat up due to internal characteristics at higher power.   Exact heat-sinking requirements depend on the package the junction is enclosed in and expected maximum power of the overall circuit design - just like FETs, power ICs, etc. etc. do when handling 'power' (e.g. amps, motor controllers, switch-mode power supplies, etc. etc..)... a TO-220 package FET rated for 30A can only do so when sufficiently heat-sunk.

But yes they do not 'burn hot' as per conventional bulbs.  And, unlike LEDs being used for headlights - which are space constrained due to style and/or form-factor (esp. where an LED is a drop in replacement to a conventional bulb) of older technologies, many aftermarket 'bolt-on' DRLs (ones that can actually be seen 0.5 to 1km away in daytime) will have an array of 5-8 LEDs side-by-side to generate sufficient brightness so that each LED won't need to handle as much power.   However they are still as bright, or brighter, when on full than at least low-beam headlights... and as the lenses cast the light differently (due to the designed/intended use) to headlights the dazzle factor is a greater issue (which may make them appear much brighter than even high-beams to an on coming vehicle).   Referencing the same members DRLs but a different post showing them in operation at night (in various modes)... :link: DRLs and spotlights fitted

An std. long-life H4 (e.g. not a 'performance' bulb - one with 'extra' brightness' or extended distance - where the trade off is lifespan often warned of in small print on the pack) the 'high-beam' bulb (at least in FDs) is about 1000-1100 lumens, the Philips 8 DRLs are 1000 lumens (of course the lenses will have an effect on such figures).   Very roughly 1000 lumens from LEDs are about 16 watts.   A single 1watt rated LED generally requires some form of heat-sinking to do so (but again depends on packing, etc., etc. - I do note the Philips 8 DRLs have quite a gap between each LED in the array).

Hence my comment that sufficient cooling would be required (which, of course, is readily available if mounted externally in the form of air-flow from a) driving and/or b) radiator fan - if mounted near that airflow) with the implied, but not stated, ideas that to look factory/OEM aftermarket DRLs would need to be mounted internally (in the bumper).
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Offline Phil №❶

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Yes, it all depends on the rated current the device has to handle. I have DRL's on my car, with no apparent heat sink other than the housing they are built in. They too are quite bright but are not consuming high wattage. A std led will glow @ full brightness @ just 30 milliamps, so not a lot of heat to dissipate.

Anyhow, good luck with your project. :Good_luck:
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Offline Dazzler

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Yes, it all depends on the rated current the device has to handle. I have DRL's on my car, with no apparent heat sink other than the housing they are built in. They too are quite bright but are not consuming high wattage. A std led will glow @ full brightness @ just 30 milliamps, so not a lot of heat to dissipate.

Anyhow, good luck with your project. :Good_luck:

Have you? Any chance of a photo Phil?
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Offline Phil №❶

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When I say my car, I mean the Holden Commodore. You want a photo of THAT.
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Offline Dazzler

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When I say my car, I mean the Holden Commodore. You want a photo of THAT.

No sorry I thought you meant one of the i30's (I hate Commodores)  :rofl: :rofl:
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Offline ibrokeit

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Have you? Any chance of a photo Phil?

 :plus1:  Though Dazz - I would specify what you want the photo to be of... otherwise you might get a photo, just not the one you want  :D
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Offline Dazzler

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 :sweating: :snigger:
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