0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
Hi Andrew and welcome to the forum.
Hi Andrew.Welcome to the forum.. No need to apologise. People in here are very helpfull, whenever you have questions.
That was a huge effort to go to for a forum member.
Hey Andrew, welcome to the forum! And now it is time for a bit of a comprehensive post =PI don't remember if I have actually posted what I have done to my 2007 i30 CRDi SLX but since you listed your car as a SR, I am assuming that you have the FD so we would be talking about the similar base layout.Removing the door trim is pretty simple as there is one screw in the door handle well and one where the arm rest is. I don't remember if there is one more as I am currently overseas and am unable to check, but after that there are just little pop rivets (I think they are called that) which you just pull the door trim directly out and the trim eventually comes off with a bit of force and pops back in when you push the trim back together.I will start simple and work to the more time consuming processes as this post goes on To start with, I had the exact same thoughts as you and I ended up purchasing the sharkracing pre-cut sound deadening kit. It isn't the best soundproofing out but it does the job and relatively cheaply as it adds a bit of lows and mids and stops vibrations. NB: you need to buy a lot of spray adhesive and I recommend 3M spray adhesive which you can pick up from Repco or Supercheap. It would be a lot more expensive and time consuming to install Dynamat and this stuff worked pretty well for the price and the ease of installation (especially on a hot summer day in Australia). Also, I'll give you a heads up that you can save some money by asking them to exclude the bonnet proofing as due to engine heat, the spray adhesive just lifts off so in the end I just tossed the bonnet proofing which did barely anything.The i30 is easy to add a subwoofer into the car by just putting a line convertor and tapping off the rear speakers and I was happy with just adding a decent subwoofer into the car for a while before changing my front stage speakers. But I am pretty sure that the SR are amplified speakers with the amplifier located in the rear left trim of the car (there was a schematic somewhere on the forum) and the stock SR speakers are meant to be upgraded speakers from the SLX and someone said they may have been JBLs.The front speakers are massive 6.5" components and the rears are 6.5" (I think) woofers (I am not 100% sure about the rears since I never have passengers so I just fade everything to the front only and left the rears as stock thus cheaper and clearer sound). Do note that if you do plan on changing the speakers, it isn't just drop in since there is a weird plastic spacer that Hyundai used and after multiple hours of trying to adapt the spacer to work with my new speakers, I just resorted to screwing 6.5" 25mm thick carpeted MDF spacers directly onto the door frame which worked out so much easier and better.Like you, I love JBL speakers (we had dual 18" JBL subs at church and they thump and I love JBL house speakers) but for cars there are so many other options that are more cost effective and sound a lot better. Your music choice will be a large deciding factor but I listen to club, vocal trance, older RnB, some light rock and a bit of dubstep meaning a large variety and pretty fast action and I found that Morel Tempo's are the best sounding speakers for me with a wide soundstage and hit pretty hard and were within my budget or the equivalent are the Crescendo Opus 1. Your main brand Sony/Kenwood/JBL/Pioneer speakers are pretty hopeless unless you look at their competition range. Have a look at mobilelectronics for reviews and they have a great forum that can help.If you don't intend to install an amp, it is pretty simple to change the speakers. Find a speaker that is quite sensitive and can cover from 15-100w or so and after picking up some MDF spacers, it is a relatively straight forward change. I ran my upgraded speakers for a while without an amp and they were decent but when I did turn the volume up high, it triggered the safety mechanism in the stock headunit leading to it turning itself off and not working until you turned off the car and on again so amping power hungry speakers happened very soon after. I am unsure about how many watts RMS the SR amp puts out though so you could be fine?If you intend to install an amp and change front stage only like me and install a sub the easiest and cleanest sounding way without having to change the stock headunit, you will need to install a line converter (don't cheap out on this and make sure you get a good powered one as these can be the culprit for terrible sound quality) and then run the corresponding wiring. Run the proper gauge wiring from the battery to your amps, install an AudioControl LC2i line output convertor (this is two channels + 1 sub channel and is highly recommended) and tap the speaker outputs from the rear of the stock headunit for front L and front R speakers (schematics available here on the forum or HMAservice) and solder connections to change to thicker gauge cabling and run this to the LC2i inputs. The LC2i outputs will provide RCA connections for L & R and also for a clean subwoofer output. Run these to your amps and the remaining wiring should be pretty simple to the speakers themselves and you will need to drill a hole under the rear seats to screw in a proper grounding point. NB: I had a bit of a issue running the wiring from the cabin to the door so I cheated and used a section of the stock wiring loom to provide this pass through. I then went to a smash repair and picked up two tweeter housings from a written off SX i30 (SX has a flat black housing since they have no tweeter) and using a hole saw, cut a hole for the tweeter housing to sit in (my tweeter housing itself allows for adjusting the angle of the tweeter). And most of the remaining things should be pretty obvious All up, I have installed front L & R Morel Tempo 6.5" components in stock woofer and tweeter location powered by one Pioneer PRS-D800 amp (should have gone for a different amp as this amp peaks at 600w but has 125WRMS but this amp is so clean since there is no equalizers or bass boost meaning it replicates the input sound without messing with sound quality), and I have a JL Audio 12w1v2 12" subwoofer in a slot ported enclosure (looking to upgrade to two 12" JL's in an sealed enclosure later) powered by a JL a1400 amplifier and I am pretty happy with the sound quality. There will always be someone with alot better sounding cars, but they probably paid 10x the amount I paid in the end. Also, if you wanted to change front and rear speakers, just pick up a four or six (LC6i for a sub/dual subs) channel line converter (look at sonic electronics and crutchfield for reviews and mobile electronics) and it will follow the same procedure above. If you have any questions, feel free to ask and I can try and help you out but I can't really provide any pictures since I don't really fly back home until Jan 14. If you live in Sydney, I might let you listen in my car to see if it was what you were aiming for sometime later so you can know if you like it or not as speakers are quite subjective to the user.Josh
Are we an Awesome club or what!
AllI absolutely agree - I've never before known such openness and gratitude on any forum before.This of course, speaks volumes about all of us! Hyundai would be well advised to participate in this forum, I believe it would show them a great deal about us, their customers - they could learn a sh_tload of information about what we want from future models.Merry Xmas to all!Rgd'sAndrew