[gazevs]

Hi i30 owners. 
What a great site this is for new owners.  Lots of stuff to trawl through and very useful so thanks for being here.

I just bought the Mrs. a 2011 SX i30 CW in diesel Auto.  It's got 54000kms on it and not been serviced for 15000kms.

Here's the plan:
Oil and filter (Penrite semi syth Extra 10) 5-40
Coolant
Air filter (blow out if OK)
ATF and filter
Brake fluid flush
Consider AGR valve and lines clear out

Can anyone advise if the steering uses the same ATF reservoir as the gearbox?

Any other recommendations?   Thanks .  .  .

[~ Angel ~]

Hi there gazevs

to the forum.

[gazevs]

Thanks Angel. Great site.

[CraigB]

  gazevs

I'd recommend a full synthetic like Shell Ultra 5W-40

[Phil №❶]

He, he, Steering is electric, no reservoir.

Oil has to be fully synthetic and ACEA B4 type for Diesels.

[Doggie 1]

 
Your plan sounds sound.

[The Gonz]

 

Tack the above advice to your plan and go for it!

[eye30]

Welcome

[Dazzler]

  Glad you like the site. We are very proud of it. Another benefit of owning an i30!

[gazevs]

Thanks for all you responses. 
Electric power steering...   Doh!  I'm over 50 so this is quite new to me   

The Penrite HPR 5 5-40 semi is ACEA B4 compliant, so (I think) I read on the label.  Even my MY14 VDJ200 gets this oil at 5000kms intervals (interim service I do myself), have used it for years and to be honest, this is a diesel motor, an oil burner, I can't see a benefit in using a full synth oil when it's changed at 7500 km intervals - just my opinion. It does seem the consensus here is to use full synth.  It's a nice little car, goes OK and very cheap to run I believe, but it's hardly a Ferrari. 

It needs a bit of room under it, I can't even fit my head in there, let alone my guts!  V8 diesel (lifted) is soooo much easier to get under and work on.  Been thinking about a used hoist for a few years, might have to do it now!!  Or... get/make some axle stands : ).

All the belts and hoses appear in good order, wondering if I have missed anything?

Thanks again for all the welcomes and responses, will let you know how I get along, how muchly appreciated...   

[cruiserfied]

 

First thing you need to do is get rid of your "oil burner" mentality. These new engines are higher tech and finer tolerances.

[Asterix]

Hi gazevs

 

[ibrokeit]

 

[wbm00]

 

:-)

[gazevs]

2011 CRDi Wagon, 4 spd Auto. 54000kms service and check up.

Well, it's a small car but apart from not fitting under it and wanting a hoist found it quite easy to service.

4 wheel alignment the day before. All 5 tyres and rims 80% +.

Here we go.....
Warm up motor and gearbox...

Up on a jack, stands in the front, jack in the rear so it's level.  All 4 wheels off and under the car.

Undo the sump plug and let it drain for about 1/2 hour, oil filter easy to get at from under the hood (in the front of the engine bay).

Air filter swapped out and noticed the old one a bit grubby. 

Brake pads were like new all 'round, rubbers on pistons looked good, just a bit of a brush out and all is well.  I didn't check handbrake shoes as it seemed good and didn't want to take the R hubs off.

Sucked out existing brake fluid and refilled with new: Pumped through the lines into the callipers, bleed out all the old fluid from the lines until nice clean fresh fluid comes out of the bleed nipple, RR, then FL, then RL and then FR. Gave it a real good flush out and used about 1l of DOT4 all up. 

Checked wheel bearings, smooth, no play, rotated freely, quiet.

Replaced the small O ring on the oil filter 'guide spike' (for want of better terminology) and the big one on the plastic filter cap. Pushing the filter onto the guide spike was a bit of an effort and was a bit cautious as I haven't done this car before and didn't want to bugger the delicate cartridge.

Drain plug with new washer put back and torqued.  Refill with 5-40 oil, just over 5.5l and a tad over the top oil mark on the dipstick.

Drained the ATF from the pan under the car, about 2.5 litres came out. Put the plug back in and torqued it. 
**Bought an ATF filter and gasket kit but decided against fitting it this time for a couple of reasons:  1: Old ATF was dirty so will use this new batch of SPIII as a cleaning agent to be replaced some time in the future, say next service at 60,000mks.   2:  The ATF pan under the gearbox was sealed with a very strongly adherent compound and it wouldn't come off easily, so rather than trying to do it lying on my back with very limited space and poor visibility, and risking bending the pan at the lip (never to seal again??) I'll leave changing the filter to the 60k service and do it then, hope to have access to a hoist by then**
Unhooked the top hose from the ATF cooler on the rad and extended it with 1.5m of 5/16 (8mm) ATF hose, slipped another 1m of 5/16 ATF tube on the metal pipe from the rad and clipped them both to the side of a 20l bucket.  Took out the ATF dipstick and put about 2.5 litres of clean ATF back into it via a long funnel and the dipstick tube so the ATF level was at or just above the full mark. With the funnel in the ATF dipstick hole and the remainder of 8l of SPIII ready to go, Started the car and let it idle whilst it pumped out the old ATF, new ATF poured into the funnel at about the same rate. The Mrs. put it in gear with brake on so the torque converter gets flushed out too.  Stopped the engine after about 2 or 3 litres of ATF has been pumped out and replaced to check the ATF level, did this several times over the course of the flush to make sure it wasn't going to run dry.  Stopped after 9 (nine) litres of fluid pumped through and the fluid is nice and clean. 

Short drive to warm up engine and trans, back home, turned off, 5 mins for fluids to settle and rechecked.  All fluids good. 
About 5 hours all up, I think learning my way around the car takes most of the time, will be much quicker next time.

Happy days, just like a bought one.    Thanks to everyone for the advice, opinions and comments above...

[FatBoy]

First thing you need to do is get rid of your "oil burner" mentality. These new engines are higher tech and finer tolerances.

I think he means "oil burner" as in a Diesel car, not that it burns oil.

BTW, 

It sounds as though you have started finding your way around the car.