[malcie]

Hi all,

I have had my i30 1.6 CRDi 2010  for a few days and I love it. I want to check if the behaviour the car is having is normal.

I checked the manual and it states that if I unlock using the fob and do not open a door within 30 seconds it will relock. What is happening is I am unlocking, opening the door, getting in and sitting in the drivers seat. With me in the car, with the key in my hand, the car locks (I can hear the dead locks and the indicators flash).

Is this normal. I am worried that if I unlocked the car and left the key in the car, for whatever reason, it would lock the doors and I wouldn't be able to get in.

Can other owners do an experiment and let me know what happens with your i30.

Thanks guys, and happy motoring

[eye30]

Not correct.

Mine only relocks when the car is locked you press fob to unlock but you do not open a door or rear hatch within the specified time.

However, my doors do lock when moving at 15mph, halo activates but not as you describe

Sure soneone can advise but try the disconnect battery trick for 30 minutes and see if that resets

[Shambles]

Once you've opened the door, the 30 second auto-relock should be cancelled.

Do the interior lights illuminate when you open the door? Did you try opening & closing a different door before getting into the drivers side?

[ibrokeit]

 

Except I am not sure that 'interior lights illuminating when you open the door' is a good indicator in this case...  as the interior lights get turned on when you unlock the car with the fob (assuming the physical switches are in the correct positions - e.g. auto/door)... at least mine do.

The advice about trying opening/closing a different door is good though - I would suspect the switch contact for the drivers door is stuffed.  And should probably be tried before the disconnect battery trick (as if is the switch that trick won't do anything).

[Shambles]

as the interior lights get turned on when you unlock the car with the fob

That's weird as my old FD didn't do that (but they did illuminate when I opened a door)

[ibrokeit]

Another thing you could do, not that I think it will give a definitive answer on how to fix (just refine symptoms), is doing some timing - that is if trying a different door doesn't stop the re-locking (if it does that narrows the issue to drivers door switch and/or wiring to it).

Time how long it takes to till relock... from when the car is unlocked with the fob and NO doors are opened - I know the manual says 30s but depending on how that timing is done there could be a variance.

Then time how long it takes till relock when the car is unlocked by fob and a/the door is opened say 5-10s after - this will give an indication if that/any door opening is being seen or not.   If no door opening is being seen then it will relock after the same time as when no door was actually opened.  If it does see the door opening, but for whatever reason it is relocking (when it shouldn't be), then the relock timeout could be (though erroneously) starting after the door is closed (e.g. about 30s after door close rather than fob unlock).

[ibrokeit]

as the interior lights get turned on when you unlock the car with the fob

That's weird as my old FD didn't do that (but they did illuminate when I opened a door)

Interesting - maybe mine is better/bigger than yours.

Though seriously I wonder if that was maybe a minor improvement between build years? or a regional variation? and/or an option/setting that varied between regions and/or trim levels?

Like the HALO trigger speed seems to vary- I think the pdf manual mentions two different speeds as trigger (15 or 40 km/h) or it being disabled... but I thought mine does it a 20km/h (but maybe I mis-remember) and eye30 mentioned 15mph... ~25kph.

[malcie]

Thanks guys for all your help and input. I think it is a fault.

I have just been outside and run a number of scenarios and basically it appears to be a fault. The other three doors detect that the door is open and the display on the dashboard shows that the door is open. The drivers door turns on the root lights but is not detected by the graphic. So I think that the car does not know that I have opened the drivers door and therefore relocks the car. It doesn't lock if I put the key in the ignition.

So it appears that the drivers door sensor (wherever it is) is not working as it should. Not a big deal providing I do not leave the key in the car shut the door having only opened the drivers door.

Thanks again
Mal.

[Shambles]

Great feedback

Now might be the time to perform a BCM reset. Not sure it's been proven to work, but definitely worth trying, by leaving the battery -ve terminal disconnected for half an hour or so.

[malcie]

Thanks Shambles. I am a software engineer so methodical diagnostics is my thing.

Not going to do a reset. I can live with this until my next service. At least I am aware of it and hopefully wont lock myself out and have to  the wife 

[Shambles]

As a software engineer (like myself) surely the temptation is there to power it off then on again?

[ibrokeit]

 

Wow that is interesting - it turning on the lights BUT the BCM (Body Control Module - which would turn on the graphic and control the relock) not seeing the door open/close.

However that would work in with what Shambles said about his only illuminating on door opening - and you guys are in the same country/region.   Where as my cabin lights seem to be under BCM control - they illuminate on unlock; and on door opening; if a/the door/s are opened then closed (but not locked) they are extinguished after a minute with a 3-4sec slow fade; if they are are illuminated when car is locked they are extinguished with an immediate ~1sec quick fade.

The switch will probably be near the latch for the door - the question is now (if interested) does the switch have two sets of contacts (one for illumination; and one for BCM - which are presumably stuffed) or does it have only one - in which case it is a wiring/contact for BCM issue.


Are you sure you are a software engineer? not a software QE/QA engineer? 

I do software QA/QE - and I wouldn't say methodical diagnostics/fault finding/fault analysis is 'their thing' for any number of programmers/software engineers I know.   Some have enough trouble with methodical programming let alone methodical program (or even function and/or module) design.  Forget about methodical diagnostics - lets just try random ideas until it works... then don't touch it even if it is otherwise flaky!   Unfortunately they do exist, and are not all that rare - thankfully you do get highly methodical software engineers as well, some who get the value of testing (esp. automated tests).

[malcie]

Lols to all the software engineering jokes. Especially turning it off and on again 

The lights are a red herring, they come on when the fob is pressed. So nothing to do with opening the door. So it looks like the sensor for the door is not working.

(I wonder if I can lock the car with the door open?...) I will test that when I leave the office...

It is not a problem providing I am aware of it.

 

[malcie]

Definitely a fault.

If I open the drivers door after unlocking, it relocks after 30 seconds. Also I can lock the car and the indicators flash with the drivers door open. The car does not know the door is open.

Does anybody know what is involved in replacing the door sensor? Is it something I can do myself or do I have to take it to Hyundai. (I am going to check whether this is covered by the 3 month warranty I received from the garage I bought it off).

Thanks for all your help guys. Much appreciated.

[Asterix]

My 2008 turns on the interior lights when I press the remote.

The door switch is the one you need to change I think. I can lock the car if I press the door switch and then lock with the remote, see video. The same switch also control the screen in the dash. All you need to change it is a philips screwdriver... 

i30 door1 - YouTube

i30 door2 - YouTube

[Dazzler]

  malcie.

Dazz here (also known as tight ar*e)

If there is a cost involved in fixing it, why not just get a Hyundai dealer to turn off the auto locking function... 

[malcie]

Cheers for the vid Asterix. Next break I will have a look.

[ibrokeit]

Okay - I took one of my door switches off...  (photos at later time)...

Turns out they are 1-wire - i.e. they are chassis grounded... which is achieved through the large screw used to secure them in place and it passing though the metal backplate of the switch.  The screw is a std. machine screw with a chink cut-out at the end - presumably to allow it to bite/self-tap though the switch backing plate to make a solid connection, as there is a captive nut inside the car chassis it screws into.

The one wire is connected via a latched plug - which is easy to unlatch and unplug.   Was a little fiddly putting switch back in as wire, plug and that end of switch need to go through a 2nd hole behind the first in the pillar (i.e. an internal wall) and you need to get the wire to go into it, not loop in front of it (which results in the switch not being able to seat) - not too bad just a little fiddly.

When the door is closed (switch pressed) the switch is open circuit - when open it isn't... but doesn't seem to be short-circuit either.  I couldn't get a stable resistance reading (switch disconnected from car) for door open position (switch not pressed)... so not sure what is up with that... is it switch design or internal components? did I just have bad contact due to coatings that may have been present? harmonic reactantance?!?etc. etc..   I didn't dis-assemble the actual switch to find out.   The reading seemed to vary between 150-700 ohms, but more around 300-500 ohms... however it was rapidly changing so wasn't stable.

Pictures as promised when first posted...

[ibrokeit]

Though I doubt it (as it seems the screw is supposed to make it's own thread in the backplate - so should be making good contact to it - then goes through the captive nut)... it might be as simple as tightening a loose screw.   Or undoing and re-tighting the current one - if corrosion has some how got in.