[Paolo5]

I have a REALLY low model 1.6 Getz engine (30.0 km!!!!) and an FD diesel engine (11,000km) on blocks and stored in my garage....hope that I never need them.

But am wondering how I can best ensure that they don't deteriorate there. I have filled both of them to the brim with engine oil.

Is there anything else that should I do?

[CraigB]

Our spare race engines we used to wrap air tight in plastic, after engine has been lubed they're stored without oil in them.

[tw2005]

Our spare race engines we used to wrap air tight in plastic, after engine has been lubed they're stored without oil in them.

  if you leave oil in how long before you have an issue?

[The Gonz]

I believe (but willing to be educated) that the simpler the oil (such as non-friction-modified Castrol XLD) the better for long term storage, with fewer additives to go stale and cause trouble.

Another point for not-so-long storage is to use Sta-Bil to condition your fuel for 6 months (in my case with incredible success, immediately driving using a tankful of 15 month old Diesel).

[CraigB]

Our spare race engines we used to wrap air tight in plastic, after engine has been lubed they're stored without oil in them.

  if you leave oil in how long before you have an issue?

Shelf life for unopened oil is roughly 4 years and once opened about 2 years, if engine is filled to the brim as mentioned in storage I'd expect seals and gaskets to start weeping.

Mineral oil will also break down faster than synthetics, eventually it'll turn to sludge and be difficult to remove.

[tw2005]

Ok so, i have my old powertrain, transfluid was not new and the motor just had a change but not perfectly clean.

Bit of a conundrum, can't see myself using the motor anytime soon, trans on the other hand you never know.

Is it farked?  it's close to 2 years now.

[The Gonz]

Is it farked?  it's close to 2 years now.

Not if you unwrap it, change the oil and wrap it up again.

[tw2005]

Is it farked?  it's close to 2 years now.

Not if you unwrap it, change the oil and wrap it up again.

Ok, to to unwrap it, I wrap it up first, then unwrap it, change the oil and then wrap it and the engine fairies will take care of the rest?

[CraigB]

Trans fluid is a bit different, not that I've had to store a tranny but that stuff lasts forever, more an issue of circulating the fluid once every 6 months so seals don't dry out but would still replace fluid before use.

Another storage solution process mentioned here Tech Update - Long term storage of race engines

[tw2005]

Ok, might have to pass on the pooch, looks like I better get the crane and hoist this up to drain it. but th eonly aperture would be the glows, i'm not keen messing with the injectors.

I know an engine builder who sugested 6 months ans things start to happen like rings sticking in grooves.

Not a lot I can do realistically, not exactly my area of expertise.

[CraigB]

I know some others who will open up all the external entries - plugs - oil cap - intake and exhaust ports once every 6 months and spray some lubricating fluid in once every 6 months then rotate the engine a few turns and seal her up again for another 6 months.

[AlanHo]

I have a friend living in Portugal who owns 6 vintage cars. Although a car enthusiast - his main purpose is as a long-term investment.  Two of his most treasured cars have been in storage for more than 20 years.

He has dismantled the drive trains on these, coated the moving parts with a corrosion protection product and sealed them individually in vacuum packaging with a dessicant inside. He reckons that it is almost impossible to stop rubber and old sealants from dilapidation and they will need replacing when it comes time to rebuild them.

Keeping the chassis and bodywork from corrosion is a full time job on his 6 cars. He spends many hours a week cleaning, and applying anti corrosion products. Batteries are a no-no and were removed and scrapped many years ago

[tw2005]

I have a friend living in Portugal who owns 6 vintage cars. Although a car enthusiast - his main purpose is as a long-term investment.  Two of his most treasured cars have been in storage for more than 20 years.

He has dismantled the drive trains on these, coated the moving parts with a corrosion protection product and sealed them individually in vacuum packaging with a dessicant inside. He reckons that it is almost impossible to stop rubber and old sealants from dilapidation and they will need replacing when it comes time to rebuild them.

Keeping the chassis and bodywork from corrosion is a full time job on his 6 cars. He spends many hours a week cleaning, and applying anti corrosion products. Batteries are a no-no and were removed and scrapped many years ago

Thanks, I think Gary (NZ) suggested spare D4FB are handy for boat anchors due to their reliability and lack of failure. having a spare is somewhat redundant.

Ironically they do have a marinised version

[Paolo5]

Thanks one and all!

My thoughts around filling with new engine oil were mainly to eliminate air and moisture. I seriously had no idea that engine oil could "turn against" engine components and smite them....

Probably just put my head in the sand and leave things the way that they are...and hope that I never actually need them....