[pidim]

Hi all,

Excuse the dumb questions... lol

My 2012 GD 1.8L Petrol is now at over 85,000km and by the next service will probably be 90,000km ( I do about 10,000-12,000 km per year). 

1) Given the 6 speed auto is a sealed unit and there is no mention anywhere of a service, should I get it done next time or is this something not needed until way into the 100's?

2) Is it okay to go to a good independent mechanic or would you only recommend an auto transmission specialist?

3) How will I know they have done a full flush (apart from requesting it)?

4) Will I notice a marked difference in driving characteristics after this?

I always appreciate the advice given on here, so if you can help out, that would be awesome.

 

I’m sure somewhere they mention either 100k or 120k is the service interval for the autos.

Preferably a transmission specialist as they’ll have the right gear to perform a flush, use a well known and popular shop, local recommendations from your mechanic and online reviews usually help.

Depending on how the gearbox is currently performing will be the deciding factor on whether you’ll notice much difference in behaviour after a change, changing the oil before you notice any difference would be the ideal situation 🙂

[Dazzler]

 

I guess it depends how much longer you are likely  to keep the car. If you might be selling or trading it in the next 6 to 12 months I'd probably save my money. 

[pidim]

 Thought I’d report back.

I had the transmission serviced today by an independent, not a dealer. Funny thing is that all information shows that this AT requires a filter kit. Eg. Auto Transmission Filter Kit - Autobarn

However, mechanic rang me to say that it doesn’t take a filter at all. He was quite confused as all his research using the VIN said that it does. Anyway, he still went ahead and ran new oil through a few times to ensure it was clean.

Does anyone have any info on this?

[tw2005]

Thought I’d report back.

I had the transmission serviced today by an independent, not a dealer. Funny thing is that all information shows that this AT requires a filter kit. Eg. Auto Transmission Filter Kit - Autobarn

However, mechanic rang me to say that it doesn’t take a filter at all. He was quite confused as all his research using the VIN said that it does. Anyway, he still went ahead and ran new oil through a few times to ensure it was clean.

Does anyone have any info on this?

What does he mean by the VIN says it takes a filter? all autos are likely to have a filter fitted but not all are accessible for routine service.

The A6 series autos would require the box out and stripped down in the pump area to replace the filter. The oil  filter mounts directly to the oil pump assembly and isn’t accessible without disassembling the transmission.

below are some images so you can see the issue. This is a lager version 6 speed but they're all the same in principle








TimeLapse câmbio Sportage A6lf1 - YouTube
????????????? A6LF1/2/3?? - YouTube

[pidim]

That’s incredible. Dismantling the whole transmission?  Talk about making it hard. That job wouldn’t be economically viable for any owner given the expected cost to do that. If that’s the case, no wonder Hyundai says fully sealed.

[tw2005]

That’s incredible. Dismantling the whole transmission?  Talk about making it hard. That job wouldn’t be economically viable for any owner given the expected cost to do that. If that’s the case, no wonder Hyundai says fully sealed.

Most Mitsubishi boxes are the same and were the older style dipstick units. The FD 4 speed had the valve body on the bottom with the pan cover there and a filter so on that one you can if you wish change it. The really old magna boxes had a spin on type as well as the internal in 1996.

Of course there is the option of flushing the trans on a regular basis, That's what I do

[pidim]

That’s incredible. Dismantling the whole transmission?  Talk about making it hard. That job wouldn’t be economically viable for any owner given the expected cost to do that. If that’s the case, no wonder Hyundai says fully sealed.

Most Mitsubishi boxes are the same and were the older style dipstick units. The FD 4 speed had the valve body on the bottom with the pan cover there and a filter so on that one you can if you wish change it. The really old magna boxes had a spin on type as well as the internal in 1996.

Of course there is the option of flushing the trans on a regular basis, That's what I do

How often do you flush the transmission?

[tw2005]

That’s incredible. Dismantling the whole transmission?  Talk about making it hard. That job wouldn’t be economically viable for any owner given the expected cost to do that. If that’s the case, no wonder Hyundai says fully sealed.

Most Mitsubishi boxes are the same and were the older style dipstick units. The FD 4 speed had the valve body on the bottom with the pan cover there and a filter so on that one you can if you wish change it. The really old magna boxes had a spin on type as well as the internal in 1996.

Of course there is the option of flushing the trans on a regular basis, That's what I do

How often do you flush the transmission?

The Mits boxes use to have a 100000K interval but harsh conditions saw that halved, My FDs I like to do every 3 years or 60000K although instead of using Mits SPIII I've changed to penrite Full Synthetic. I expect the fluid should last better.

My i40 is the only one I have with the 6 spd "sealed" unit. I have not had it long but flushed it at 111000k and it had service history, fluid was not too bad , but don't know if it had been changed or not. I used Penrite Full Syn LV

The book says every 100000K for severe conditions otherwise no maintenance but I'll likely do it every 3-4 years anyway

Grab the manual and you'll see the list of harsh conditions, you may be surprised.

[nzenigma]

The above opinions quote whatever thought bubble is floating around. 

The book says every 100000K for severe conditions otherwise no maintenance. 

[pidim]

The above opinions quote whatever thought bubble is floating around. 

The book says every 100000K for severe conditions otherwise no maintenance. 

Thanks for that.

[pidim]

By the way, all good on the oil change front as car feels better when accelerating etc. Even the gear lever feels more fluid when engaging D-P and general smoothness, so no problems with that.

One of the issues I felt prior to the change of oil and was motivating me to do this, is still there.

When I am in “D” mode, there is a (very) slight “tick” sound that is heard and “felt” when car is coasting in a gear taller than 4th and I need to brake, as the car slows down before stopping completely. 

As I start to apply the brake pedal to slow the car down (eg at a give way sign) it downshifts to 3rd as the speed decreases before coming to a complete stop, which is what has always happened.  However, I am noticing a very slight “tick” sound and you would need to listen very carefully to hear it and also a less-than-perfect downshift which can be “just” felt via the foot on the brake pedal and hands on the wheel – if that makes sense.

The issue is that I can’t tell if this is how it has always been.  If the car is in 4th gear, there is no sound or rougher downshift while in “D”.  On some occasions I can replicate it by shifting the lever to manual mode and downshifting from 4th to 3rd while coasting to an intersection etc.  I now have A/T anxiety … LOL

I would really appreciate some advice or your comments as I don’t know whether I am over-reacting to all of this, as I am not keen on having to fork out a heap of money right now.

1.   Is this a normal characteristic which I possibly have never noticed? 
2.   Does it have anything to do with the torque converter in taller gears?
3.   Could it be something other than A/T  eg– Brakes?
4.   I spoke to the mechanic again today and he said that it may be a solenoid and referred me to Transmission specialist as he was not 100% sure himself. What do you guys think?

Thanks again for the great input as always.