[ElleB]

Hi all,   
Just had my auto serviced...and though it worthwhile to report the comments of my ( Non HY mechanic.)

  The book lists the service to take place at 90,000Km and to me that seemed a "long time between drinks"...
On Inspection at the 80,000 service, the Trans Fluid was seen to be a brownish colour, almost dirty looking. I added some auto trans additive to give it a good "flush" for 1000km then had the fluid changed today at 84,000Km. My mechanic also commented on the colour of the oil ( It didnt smell burnt) and said that in his opinion, 90,000 was to long a service interval and that he thought 60,000 was about right.

We used a very high quality, ( exceeding the Hy specs) Elf oil for todays service, plus I put in an additive, which I will be reporting on a little later, when I have some conclusive data.

The mechanic said we should do the change again in 40,000Km......reason being that all the oil does not drain from the auto trans, as the torque converter is full and this oil stays put, so in effect it contaminates the new oil.

So.. I just bring this point to everyones attention... if we want to look after our auto trans,  changing the oil early and accounting for the old oil that does remain in subsequent servicing would be a good thing IMO   

Cheers   

I'm either psychic or this has been posted before or   

[rustynutz]

Quite right, Tony must be losing it....

https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=14380.msg225443#msg225443

[ElleB]

Not loosing it...... strange as it may seem..     
I just posted it in a more obvious area... since there were no comments or chat.... first time around...

[Doggie 1]

Not loosing it...... strange as it may seem..     
I just posted it in a more obvious area... since there were no comments or chat.... first time around...

I did say thanks. 

[ElleB]

Sorry DB08...    no offence   

 Must have missed it as I was thinking more of comment or  chat re experiences etc...

 

[Doggie 1]

Sorry DB08...    no offence   

 Must have missed it as I was thinking more of comment or  chat re experiences etc...

None taken. 
The auto trans guy that I use always says that a lot of places when they service the transmissions leave some of the old fluid in there.
He says that the only way is to pressure pump new fluid through the system until the fluid coming out the other end is clean and like new.
He said it uses a lot of auto trans fluid to do and most places don't like to do it because they see it as wastage, but it's the only way to do it properly.
I don't know a lot about it, but just repeating what he tells me.

[ElleB]

Good Point, I had not heard of that being done in the past...I was always a "manual guy", until we got Elle B   
I will ask next time I am at the mechanics and see what he says......the issue might be, as you say, the amount of fluid used in the process.

 The "high spec" ELF fluid used is listed on my invoice at $19 /ltr...    but only 3.25 lts was used when the capacity is 6.6 ltrs... I will check the colour on the weekend and see how it looks.

I AM using an auto trans additive which I know is tried and tested in giving extra protection...in fact my wife commented on the smoother gear changes and general operation, unsolicited...so that was a positive!!!

Hi ho, hi ho..... it's off to work I go !!!!!.......................at least it is Friday...

[beerman]

Was pondering a service for mine, but have held of because the transmissions that have failed seemed to have failed around the 50-80k mark (from memory) so I wanted to pass that. I would hate to spend money needlessly...

I didn't realise that Hyundai had scheduled an automatic service as a part of the 90k service (would make the petrol one really expensive). So I'll see an auto service place closer to that date.

[agentr31]

Sorry DB08...    no offence   

 Must have missed it as I was thinking more of comment or  chat re experiences etc...

None taken. 
The auto trans guy that I use always says that a lot of places when they service the transmissions leave some of the old fluid in there.
He says that the only way is to pressure pump new fluid through the system until the fluid coming out the other end is clean and like new.
He said it uses a lot of auto trans fluid to do and most places don't like to do it because they see it as wastage, but it's the only way to do it properly.
.

Or you could disconnect the auto trans lines on the cooler in the radiator.... one in a new tin of oil, one in an empty tin and let the auto do the work for you, just requires 2 people one to watch the oil and one person to go through the gears with their foot on the brake.

[ElleB]

Mmmm,  interesting thought.... I will check it out!!!   

[2i30s]

that works .    great idea Ian. 

[komaterpillar]

won't work, the supply line to the cooler is from the convertor outlet relief valve, the return line is simply that, a return line, there is no suction in the line it merely dumps the oil from the cooler back into the case of the tranny. even if you could pump oil back in through the return line you would have to keep up with the tranny oil pump, which with 5/16 hose you are gonna have a bit on keeping up.

the only time I would deem a flush necessary is after a major failure where only the damaged part is replaced and the whole tranny is not stripped ie. torque convertor failure or oil pump failure. even then I would probably strip it and do a re-race and re-seal while its out, depending on the failure.

[2i30s]

well that's that,works till you run out of oil. 

[agentr31]

*face palm* why didnt i think of that!!

well, its no problem still, just do it untill it starts spitting air out, then turn it off FAST!!! top up and check fluid!

i do a similar thing with the powersteering on cars, although i will say this, i use a 20L drum and a hand pump to refill as its dumping the oil... get a mate to turn the steering and pump like a mad man! 3L of oil later and its good!

[ElleB]

Mmmmm,  sounds expensive @ $19 a litre for the Elf oil that my guy uses!!!! There is sure to be some waste and loss..

Interesting to hear the various options....like I said, bring the next service interval back to 40thou, may well be the safer option..

Agentr31,   lets know how you go when you next do yours...

[agentr31]

i have a manual, im not a fan of automatic gear boxes...

[beerman]

Mmmmm,  sounds expensive @ $19 a litre for the Elf oil that my guy uses!!!! There is sure to be some waste and loss..

Interesting to hear the various options....like I said, bring the next service interval back to 40thou, may well be the safer option..

Agentr31,   lets know how you go when you next do yours...

Not a mechanic but couldn't you use cheaper compliant oil for the flush ,then as the oil starts to run clean swap to the $19/l stuff. Best of both worlds.

[beerman]

I had mine serviced yesterday at 88k.

I had a full flush done, Cost $360 but I think is worth it, considering just a service and replace oil was $180. I would rather know the fluid was 100% clean.

Auto bloke commented that the fluid was really dirty, and that was because the auto runs hot.

Suggested the $180 fluid change in 20k, but I won't be taking that option thank you (If Abbot wins the election I'll be looking for a new one at 125k or so, so this might be the first and last),

On the way home the auto felt happier, and smoother in the gear changes.

[Dazzler]

[de Bounce]

Resurrecting an old thread.
Had the 60K service done and requested the auto trans be serviced at the same time (not by HY)
My mechanic showed me the old filter which was very dirty and the magnets were covered with fine particles (he claimed normal wear and tear).
Based on the old filter and oil, he suggested they needed changing at 60k and not at 90K as recommended!

[crazykev]

I replaced mine with Penrite ATF FS with no issues so far. Repco stock 4lts for $42. There 1lt bottles are cheap too. Good buy when the 25% and 30% club sales are on. Hyundai wanted $60 a litre.

Penrite Oil - A Better Class Of Oil

I wonder that since the i30 is hard on its transmission and now my fluid is changed to a common type, I might drop whats in the sump every 15k service while im doing the oil and just replace whats in the sump (2.25l of 6.7 total). Its alot easier than doing a full flush etc. and saves alot of work. I mean it would only take an extra 10mins each service and its good piece of mind. Though. It will depend on how the ATF FS fluid looks after 30k or so. If its clean as a whisker I'll just run it until it get a little dirty.

[crazykev]

I would agree with earlier comments that 60k replacement would seem about right for this transmission. Ive only had mine and it was fleet before I got it with full hyundai stamps and intermediate stamps. So if the fluid was changed at 80k, and from the condition it was at 120k I would think 60k would be the right interval.

Of course though I completely believe Hyundai would have done a pan only 2.25lt change at 80k if at all. Nothing about the car was serviced properly when I got it, the air filter was completely stuffed, the cabin filter was fully clogged and had never been cleaned, and the oil appeared to be the wrong viscosity. I would think they didnt use b4 spec oil I reckon they just put in 15/40 shop oil and the soot thickened it up maybe?

I don't doubt that the so called faulty valve body issues with this model is actually just poor service related and just a auto designed for a 1.8lt petrol working hard with more torque and shifting alot more when its connected to a turbo diesel.

[crazykev]

well that's that,works till you run out of oil. 

Yeah you can do this procedure. Its not pleasant though as the pump dosent operate in Neutral on this tranny (Mitsubishi ones do) you have to shift it into D to get fluid to pump out. You have to monitor how much comes out to make sure you dont run dry (you can pump 2 lt out at a time then shut down and top up the auto with another 2lts, and you have to put your finger over the pipe at the transmission return line end otherwise that end spatters everywhere.

But its does work just have to have your wits about you not to let run dry.

[mborkp]

I think there is an easier way to flash:

Disconnect the AT pressure line at the radiator port. (might need to test which one it is, I don't know do you? If yes, pls share)
Let the transmission fluid out from the sump, screw back the plug.
Re-fill the fluid in the sump with the new one (sama amount as removed old one).
Get other person to keep the disconnected pressure line end pointing to the bucket or something.
Start the engine, put on brake and shift to Drive
You will see dirty oil from the converter going to the bucket,  when new clean oil shows up, stop the engine.
Reattach the pressure line to the radiator.
Top up with new fluid, have a ride and top up if required.

You have just fully flashed your AT

BTW: does anyone know where to buy service kit for  I30 diesel AT?
Thanks.

EDIT: or just watch this from my old post : Flushing the automatic transmission

[Phil №❶]

I saw this on U tube but was too chicken to try it. It assumes that you have a good supply of fresh trans oil, which I don't. I think there is also a filter that needs cleaning too, so it would be pointless, unless you did that as well. My days of grovelling under cars are rapidly receding into the distance. Having said that, I did get a hydraulic jack for Father's Day.

[mborkp]

I can't find any AT service pack for that model... bit confused with that filter/magnet thing, will definitely need new AT sump gasket replacement but where to get it from?