[Dazzler]

Thanks sundiz!

You forgot to mention don't have a smoke while you are doing this. 

[xiziz]

Thanks Sundiz! Would have needed that in spring when I needed to empty mine of water. Looks like you managed to make a lot less of a mess than I did!

[sundiz]

Thanks Sundiz! Would have needed that in spring when I needed to empty mine of water. Looks like you managed to make a lot less of a mess than I did!

I've been practising. I think this was my 4th time changing the filter  For water removal you probably did not remove the filter. I think you can remove the water sensor while filter is still connecter. Just need a lot of rags for the water and diesel...

[sundiz]

We are excepting first snow this week, so I changed to studded tyres last weekend. Few of the lug nuts are little bit corroded. One of the nut was in such a bad shape that when I removed it with impact gun the chrome finish peeled of from 2 sides of the nut. That nut is now smaller in diameter and it almost got stuck inside the socket. Never had issues with lug nuts or bolts. Not even +20 year old. Not sure if poor quality or if the previous owner has done something to the nuts.

Called to local dealer if they had them in stock. They had, but they can keep them. When I asked how much they cost I got an answer "8,6€". Had to ask was that for a set or just one. They want almost 10€ for one nut! So went to one korean website and ordered 10 nuts for 22$. Postage was bit high for the nuts so bought also new fuel filter for next winter... Paid only 50% for the parts when compared to local dealer.

OEM steel wheel nut is 52950-17000 if someone happens to need them...

Also my key fob broke down. When I pulled the key out of the ignition the key fell of from the fob. Somehow the joint broke down. Ordered new case for the key fob from ebay.

[CraigB]

They're pretty pricey over there for chrome wheel nuts can get full set on ebay here for $30 free postage 20 x Chrome Alloy Wheels Rim Nuts 12 x 1.5 to fit Mazda Toyota Honda Kia Hyundai | eBay

[sundiz]

I was thinking of buying just normal lug nuts and then just some normal hubcaps. But as I found OEM nuts for a reasonable price I will be using the OEM hubcaps. Hyundai Nuts for steel rims have small lip which keeps the hubcaps in their place.

[CraigB]

Oh, I see what you mean

[sundiz]

Well this happened.



Finally got the new key fob I ordered from the UK. Paid only 9£. Old case was in good shape so I did not want to destroy it by melting the transponder out from the case (as adviced in some youtube video). So I took the hinge from the new key and just replaced that. Unfortunately I had to use a file to enlarge the lockpin groove on the actual key. Took some time but now I have a working key. And I did not need to risk destroying the transponder as I used the old case.

[The Gonz]

 

[nzenigma]

You Reduced de Pixels. 

[sundiz]

I was cleaning and came up with the wheel nut I had to replace some time ago. 2 chrome/nickel surfaces came off while changing the tyres. This is what 9 years in winter and salt may do to nuts (2 annual tyre changes).

[nzenigma]

 
I spent one winter in Alberta. My nuts have never been the same since then. 

[sundiz]

For some reason, my handbrake loosens over time. I checked the brake pads and they were adjusted as they should. It seems that the wires gets loose from the handle. I have tighten the wires 4 times now. Today I added nyloc nut to the tensioner. Hope it stays tight now.

[Asterix]

For some reason, my handbrake loosens over time. I checked the brake pads and they were adjusted as they should. It seems that the wires gets loose from the handle. I have tighten the wires 4 times now. Today I added nyloc nut to the tensioner. Hope it stays tight now.

Sounds like the cables/wires are starting to stretch, you need new ones asap.

[sundiz]

Have you had issues with wires? I was guessing the tensioner might be the reason. The tensioner nut can be turned with fingers. It looked like it might come loose with use. I'll have to see how it starts behaving now. New wires would be pain in the butt to change. Especially now with -25'C temps.

[Asterix]

Have you had issues with wires? I was guessing the tensioner might be the reason. The tensioner nut can be turned with fingers. It looked like it might come loose with use. I'll have to see how it starts behaving now. New wires would be pain in the butt to change. Especially now with -25'C temps.

Only wire problem was on my earlier Primera, but on that one I had to change the handbrake cables when it was -6ºC and I don't have a garage.... 

The i30 handbrake have never failed... 

[sundiz]

Several years I have noticed that in extreme cold temps the oil pan heater does not help the car start at all. Actually the starting is worse when oil is heated. I still do it wishing warm oil would help with engine wear. Cold oil is not good lubricant. But this was the worst I have experienced. Real temp was -25'c. Oil pan heater might have heated the temp sensor also, or it may not be very accurate in low temps. Still having original glow plugs, but I think I need the change them in the summer. Now when temps are over -20'c I haven't had starts like this.

Hyundai i30 1.6crdi cold start - YouTube

At least the battery seems to be in good condition 

[sundiz]

Last time I tried to change new front brakes, it was -26'c. It was too cold to be handling metal parts. Today it was around 0'c and the sun was shining. Did everything pretty much as they say in the manual: Etujarru..pdf - Google Drive

Old discs and pads were at minimum thickness. One pad had even a part missing. No wonder the brakes seemed little underpowered. I believe I drove 90tkm with these ones.



New rotors and pads made a quite a difference. Now the car feels like it stops when I want.

[tw2005]

Last time I tried to change new front brakes, it was -26'c. It was too cold to be handling metal parts. Today it was around 0'c and the sun was shining. Did everything pretty much as they say in the manual: Etujarru..pdf - Google Drive

Old discs and pads were at minimum thickness. One pad had even a part missing. No wonder the brakes seemed little underpowered. I believe I drove 90tkm with these ones.



New rotors and pads made a quite a difference. Now the car feels like it stops when I want.

decent sized lip worn in that rotor for sure

[sundiz]

I knew I had some issues with my glow plugs. At -18'C the engine really struggled to fire up. Even at 0'C I could smell diesel near the exhaust. At positive degrees never had issues with starting. Finally I decided to change the plugs. I tried to measure them before removing but was not able to get any reasonable resistances from the plugs.

I saw NGK quide how to remove a glow plug. They recommended using torque wrench with max 40nm while opening. If they don't come out with that, put penetrating oil and try again after one week. I put my wrench at 30nm and all came out with ease. My engine was still warm.

Measured all plugs when they were out and noticed that all were dead. Even connected them straight to battery with starter cables but nothing happened. No glow. All were dead. I was surprised how well the engine had started without any working plug... Measured also the glow plug power line, which worked flawlessy. Glow plugs seemed to be the reason for poor winter starting.

Fitted new ones (oem yura brand). Torqued them to 15nm as the manual says (15-20nm). Doesn't seem to be very good plugs, but they were  cheap. Paid only 60€ for 4. Bosch would have been 120€. My car is now at 144tkm and all plugs were original from the factory. Now I just need to wait winter to see how new plugs work. Now it is too hot so glow plugs are not needed. If the issues continue next winter, I will get some other brand plugs. Or a gasoline car...

One new vs 4 old ones.

[Dazzler]

  for that sundiz 

[sundiz]

Continued playing with the car today. Changed engine oil, washed and vacuumed it. I remembered some discussion about glow plugs and how they stay on even the engine has started. So I wanted to see it myself. Good to test with new working plugs. I woke up early while it still was a bit colder (8'C). I put my current clamp over the powerline which feeds current to the glowplug rail. After start it was still feeding 35 amps to the glowplugs. After about 2-3 minutes the glow relay shut down and the glow current went to 0 amps. I was able to hear the difference in the idle when that happened. Makes sense as 35 amps will create some load for the alternator...

[sundiz]

I had to drive through a roundabout with bit more speed than usual. I heard this grinding metallic noise. Went to a near by empty parking lot to do more tests. Definately hear the noise when driving fast and turning heavily on the left. Right turns made no noise. Thought there might be small rock between the pads. Opened the front brakes, but found nothing unusual. Pads and rotors were in good shape. I changed them few months ago. After brake check the noise is still there. I think this is the first time I actually need to take the car to dealership service. I assume it might be the bearing, allthough there were no play when I tried shaking the wheel when front was lifted up. Or it might be the cv joint. The noise comes when front right tyre is under stress. Nevertheless I don't have the tools, time or space to do more detailed inspection. Just when I had saved the money for new windshield. I guess the new glass has to wait. Car has currently 147tkm.

[tw2005]

hard to say, clearance between brake shield and rotor ok?

[sundiz]

Clearance was fine. If front axel the shield is fairly small when compared to rear axel. Also I did not see any scrape marks on the disk. The wear indicator on the pad had not any marks and should not be able to touch the disk as it is almost brand new pad.  Also rotated the disk when at full left turn, but did not see the cause. Of course there was no load on that corner. Noise only comes at higher load/speeds. It sounds metallic, almost brake disky noise, but I just can't figure out what causes it.

Maybe I shoud try to find my action cam. Stick it to front fender and go for a spin.

[sundiz]

Got my car back from the dealership. Cost was "only" 130€.  They found that metal cover/shield had come loose from lower ball joint. That made contact to the brake disc in corners. Personally I did not even knew there was such thing. They said it was a bit tricky to find out and took some time. Neverteless I'm happy the car is ok to drive and does not make any noise.

I must admit this was highest hour charge I've ever heard/paid. 107€/hour. I think I shoud put up own shop with that kind of rates. Usually paid 50-70€ per hour...

They also found that left steering ball joint is going to fail "soon" and made an offer to change it. 118€ for parts and 220€ for labour ( actual change and wheel alingment). Just checked that I can get the same parts from koraps for 17$ + shipping + customs/VAT. I guess I'll be ordering the parts and change it myself and take the car to alingment after that. Alingment is only around 100€. I should save about 200€ doing dirty work myself.

Damn those parts are expensive here...

[sundiz]

Those are the parts they want to change: 565402H000 and 577221G000.

inner ball joint.JPG - Google Drive

I think I need to study GDS. Looks like it might be nasty if going DIY .

[tw2005]

Got my car back from the dealership. Cost was "only" 130€.  They found that metal cover/shield had come loose from lower ball joint. That made contact to the brake disc in corners. Personally I did not even knew there was such thing. They said it was a bit tricky to find out and took some time. Neverteless I'm happy the car is ok to drive and does not make any noise.

I must admit this was highest hour charge I've ever heard/paid. 107€/hour. I think I shoud put up own shop with that kind of rates. Usually paid 50-70€ per hour...

They also found that left steering ball joint is going to fail "soon" and made an offer to change it. 118€ for parts and 220€ for labour ( actual change and wheel alingment). Just checked that I can get the same parts from koraps for 17$ + shipping + customs/VAT. I guess I'll be ordering the parts and change it myself and take the car to alingment after that. Alingment is only around 100€. I should save about 200€ doing dirty work myself.

Damn those parts are expensive here...

Damn, I was close.

We don't have those shields on ours and there's 2 versions of ball joints and steering knuckles. One is mounted by 2 bolts, the other a very large single nut I believe. The only adjustment in alignment is toe for these cars unless you have cam bolts installed.

I tried replacing what I call tie-rods once on a car with the rack in, bit of a fail. Diffiiculty doing the shaft tight enough and peening the lock washer. I had to take it somewhere to get it right as it was not secure.

To get that rack out, you will be undoing and dropping the subframe to gain clearance. If you are  then if the sway bar bushes have not been changed then get a pair because it's thesame amount of work to do them. may as well.

You'll also be disconnecting the steering shaft. It may or may not need SAS recentred. If it all goes back in the same place(shaft splines) then it should be fine.

[sundiz]

I was assuming that dropping the subframe is not mandatory. Eventhough the GDS clearly says you need to drop it to service inner tie rods. Assumption is just based on the fact that they charge 85€ for the change. I don't think you could get all that work with only 85€.

I think I may have to check the tie rod situation next weekend. Also check if there is enough space to do it without dropping the subframe. If it is mandatory to drop it, then it is job for a mechanic.

[tw2005]

I was assuming that dropping the subframe is not mandatory. Eventhough the GDS clearly says you need to drop it to service inner tie rods. Assumption is just based on the fact that they charge 85€ for the change. I don't think you could get all that work with only 85€.

I think I may have to check the tie rod situation next weekend. Also check if there is enough space to do it without dropping the subframe. If it is mandatory to drop it, then it is job for a mechanic.

something's not adding up. Don't know. I would think it would be awkward. labour charge seems light. I'm not convinced it's failing I reckon you'd have a good feel on it.

anyway, maybe a 2nd opinion or a suspension specialist.