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Led turn bulbs py21w on my i30 2012 new model

gary73 · 41 · 10189

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Offline CraigB

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I'm not sure where you would put the resistors for the front indicators as the power is fed through the socket itself so somewhere prior to the lamp assembly if you chase the wiring back, the rear ones will have to be installed behind the panelling in the boot as there is very little room under the lights.

Good resistors come with the ability to simply clip on, no cutting or splicing.


Offline gary73

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In fact the issue with the European version is the electric relay system. I double checked with the car workshop and they assured there is no physical relay. I abandoned the idea of modifying the turn signal into led and I bought crystal bulb which are traditional lamp but better looking


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Offline xerox

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Ahh thanks Gary. Good to get confirmation there is no physical relay. My Australian 2012 i30 is the same.

I will probably end up installing some 20W Cree LED flashers. Being more or less the same power consumption of the normal bulbs, there shouldn't be any hyperflash. Here's the ones I'm thinking of getting: :link: 2X20W BAU15S High Power PY21W Cree LED CAR Tail Reverse Brake Amber Light Yellow | eBay

Though I highly doubt theses will be genuine Cree LED diodes. Nevertheless, we'll see how it goes.
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Offline CraigB

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Though I highly doubt theses will be genuine Cree LED diodes. Nevertheless, we'll see how it goes.
Yes I would be very sceptical of most products out of China.


Offline gary73

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So do I


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Offline gary73

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Be sure that the real consumption is equal to 20w. Because once I've asked it for similar (Cree) bulbs, the seller answered it wasn't.


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Offline CraigB

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Be sure that the real consumption is equal to 20w. Because once I've asked it for similar (Cree) bulbs, the seller answered it wasn't.
From a reputable site I've used before :link: S25 - BA15S (1156) 20w High Powered - BA15S - S25 - BA15 Series - Indicator, Stop Tail, and Interior - LED

You'll notice the bulbs are P type instead of PY though the 20W bulb equates to 3.6w, you can also see the difference in the LED's themselves when compared to the Chinese ones which don't have the reflectors around the LED chips.

Cheap Chinese knock offs :spitty:


Offline xerox

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Thought I'd give an update and tips on my endeavours on replacing my rear brake lights and rear indicator lights with LEDs.

For the rear indicators, I ended up having no other solution but to install load resistors in parallel to the LED bulbs to avoid hyperflashing. I mounted them to the aluminium chassis behind the rear light assembly with heat-resistant tape (quite poorly, I might add; the surface wasn't flat and would function mediocrely as a heatsink). I'm fairly confident they're not touching any wiring and it won't melt through anything, though.

Through my testing, it's also worth noting that the front and rear indicator circuits appear to be independent, i.e. installing two load resistors for each globe at the rear (four in total at the rear to dissipate the equivalent of four halogen globes) will *not* let you install LED indicator bulbs at the front. The reason I contemplated this was because the wiring for the front headlight assembly is wired through a giant plug with all the wiring bundled together. Though it's possible, I wasn't confident enough to find the correct wire and mount a resistor somewhere neatly at the front.

For the rear brake lights, I bought some (fake Chinese) Cree LED globes similar to my indicators. I advise not to go too cheap when buying these LEDs as some of them are quite poor in distinguishing the brightness difference between the bright 'brake' light and the dimmer 'tail' light when your headlights are on. This is quite dangerous at night and will undoubtedly violate some ADR standards. Luckily, mine were comparable in performance to the stock globes. I would also expect the really cheap LEDs (or perhaps even all the ones off eBay), are poorer binned LEDs. (By binning I refer to the categorisation of high and low performing LED chips due to the imperfect processes of semiconductor manufacturing.) Also, for the record, I did not have problems with cruise control after replacing my brake lights with LEDs.

Now, the brake lights are 'dual filament', where in a halogen globe there are two actual physical filaments for the bright 'brake' light and dimmer 'tail' light. This means they are completely isolated. The LEDs I bought is one circuit and had very poor isolation between the 'brake' circuitry and the 'tail light' circuitry. When the LED tail lights were on, their voltage leaked to the brake lights. This meant that my middle brake light was being fed voltage and was lit dimly when my tail lights were on at night (they were fine in the day, because the tail lights are only on when the headlights are) (also, the middle brake light still lit brightly from the dim state when the brakes were applied).

I solved this problem by soldering a 1N5404 3A diode from Jaycar to the brake light wire so that voltage cannot be fed backward to the middle brake light. The 3A rating means the diode will still operate under spec even with normal halogen bulbs. Now, there are three wires (red, green and black) going to the brake light globe holder, you wish to cut the green one to solder the diode in. You'd naturally think the red one would be for the brake light, but it's not. I can assure you through my trial and error. (I ended up having to install diodes on both sets of wires; unsoldering the other would've been too messy). After you cut the green wire, strip the two ends and solder the diode in between. You'll also want to heatshrink or electrical tape your solder joints after you're finished.

If you encounter my same symptom of a dimly lit middle brake light after changing to LEDs, I'd retrospectively recommend you use a Schottky diode (a 1N5822 will do) instead of the one I used, as they have half the voltage drop of a regular diode, meaning your brake lights will be brighter. I note however that I couldn't tell the difference in brake light brightness between having the diode present (11V being fed to the lights) and it being not present (12V being fed to the lights).

Overall, I'm quite happy with this little project. The brightness of the LEDs I chose are more or less the same brightness as the stock halogen globes, but now my rear lights turn instantly on and off. I'm a bit bummed I don't know how to replace the front indicators with LEDs, but I've already bought more LED globes to replace my 2nd rear tail light, reversing light, licence plate light and front parking lights. I might give another update when they arrive in a month from China. I don't expect that many problems as that LED brake light, however. :lol:
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Offline Dazzler

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Offline CraigB

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If you're comfortable with wiring you could always install LED modules :link: 2012-2016 i30-Elantra GT Tail Light LED Turn Signal Module Kit - Shark Racing they're still cheaper than buying the OEM LED tail lights.

Shark Racing also have some LED turn signal/brake light bulbs, you would need to contact them about the option of some in the PY type ( offset pins ) :link: LED Bulbs - Turn Signal and Brake Lights - Load-Resistor Free - Shark Racing



Offline ibrokeit

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I know this is now nearly two months old...

Just a note... when wanting to add reverse voltage protection it is sometimes also desirable, or necessary, to avoid having the voltage drop normally associated with a diode (though in this case it doesn't seem to be an issue).  Xerox has alluded to the voltage drop problem in saying: he would retrospectively recommend a schottky diode as it has half the drop.

There is another method with almost no voltage drop... use a FET such as a MOS-FET (N.B. It does depend on the type of FET - very low 'on resistance' is needed and the FET needs to be able to handle the power drawn by the load).   There are a few methods I have seen for wiring but they come back to the same idea...  using the 'body diode' of the FET for reverse polarity protection when polarity is reversed and bypassing the body diode (so negating the diode voltage drop) by the FET being ON when polarity is correct.

N.B. For the purposes of explanation/comprehension and/or visualization on diagrams - it is simplest to think and talk of the 'body diode' as separate diode to the FET junction.  Physically they are not separate (but are manufactured into the junction to prevent undesirable behaviors).

The 'trick' is that usually you connect a FET with it's 'body diode' against the circuit polarity... so (with correct circuit polarity) when the FET is OFF no voltage flows.  However when wiring to be used for reverse polarity protection you connect the 'FET' with it's 'body diode' with the circuit polarity - in such configuration when the polarity is correct voltage flows regardless of the FET being off (when it flows through the 'body diode' with a voltage drop) or on (when the 'body diode' is bypassed and there is little/no drop).  When reverse polarity is present the body diode will now be against the (incorrect) flow and stop it IF the FET itself is off (up to whatever breakdown specs the body diode and FET junction have) - of course it is rather important the FET is wired to stay OFF in this instance.

As you can tell the FET should be wired so it is ON with correct polarity and OFF with reverse.  So that when the current is flowing in the desired direction (i.e. correct polarity) the FET is on and it's junction acts (in general terms) like just a piece of wire - the 'body diode' will be by-passed as it has a voltage drop the junction doesn't (effectively).   When current is flowing (or rather attempting to) in reverse polarity the FET stays off and the 'body diode' blocks the flow.
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