I had horrendous wear on my fronts until I took up maintaining tyre pressure at 41PSI - never had a problem since!

Thanks Gonz - is that front and rear?

... tyre pressure at 41PSI - never had a problem since!

Typical engineer's solution. Keep the rubber off the road and it can't wear out

Thanks for the update. Don't just change the tyres - sort out the alignment too.

Thanks Shambles. We got an alignment done, but we always do, and this problem always persists to some degree or other. There's plenty of threads on here about people with the same issue - some dating back over ten years for ~the same model as mine - and I haven't seen yet if anyone managed to sort it out. We just keep getting the same reaction from the wheel aligners: "did the best we could, they're still not great, you can't do a full proper alignment on these models as they don't have any adjustable <something or other. Sorry - can't remember what it is>."

@brah.  Yes, imo, those are the three important specs to use in your search if you intend to stay oem.

PCD of 5 x 114.3 is pretty much mandatory for you.  Goggle it.  "5" is the number of wheel studs, "114.3" is the distance in mm between stud centres (measured a certain way). 

Sometimes "Offset" is called "ET" (e.g. ET53) which is German for "einpresstiefe". (A German girlfriend once told me it means "inset depth"...and we weren't talking about wheels:)).

Buying wheels with non-oem ET/Offset requires some thought.  OEM is 53mm.  A larger offset of say, 58mm means that the wheel/tyre sits IN further by 5mm (so, need to check whether you have sufficient wheel/tyre clearance with brakes and suspension parts).  A smaller offset of say, 48mm means that the wheel/tyre sits further OUT by 5mm (need to check for sufficient tyre clearance with the car's fender lip and that nothing sticks out past the cars body.
 

Hi there, Richard agius

to the forum.