[winter]

Just had both my factory headlights blow simultaneously. Car has done 35000km. Took it to the dealer who told me it was normal. I don't believe that it was a coincidence that the bulbs blew at the same time. Driving a CRDi so I'll measure the headlight voltage when I change the globes.

[Ugly Mongrel]

Winter, I agree with you about both bulbs blowing at the same time not being a coincidence. As far as the dealer saying it was "normal", I think that sounds a bit suspect. They are probably just too lazy to look for the real cause.

[druggist]

Unfortunately it is "normal" in a CDRi.

Search the forum for "blown headlights" and then go back and see the dealer wanting some answers about voltage spikes which you will have trouble measuring.

Hyundai have a known problem in their database that your dealer needs to work through with their technical people to fix.

Unfortunately it takes several visits usually.

Still the same headlights since Nov 2011, in mine after 9 blown in the first 11 months.

[Dazzler]

I don't normally welcome Winter but in your case I'll make an exception....

Seems to be the most common of very few complaints we get about the Crdi (I had the same trouble when I had mine) 

[Phil №❶]

 

[constipated]

Winter, I don't think this is normal. I would be replacing the bulbs and if this happens again I would be printing off pages from this website and ensuring they check everything that is known to cause this problem. I'm sick of how often Hyundai are denying this problem

[neoto]

Just calculate how many hours were they turned on and compare this to the typical life span of 400 to 600 hours.

[syecadelic]

Havent had this issue with mine **TOUCH WOOD** fairness I have HID lights in, which maybe hadnle the 'spike' better. tho saying that with the sound system in, it possibly helps avoid 'spikes.
Maybe a grounding kit would assist you? http://www.groundingkits.co.uk/
As it would might help keep the car circuit more stable?

[2i30s]

welcome aboard winter.    starting your car with the head lights switched on could cause them to blow due to a spike in voltage.    my wife's cw has had six blown brake light globes in just under three years of ownership. i found that when she started her car she was putting her foot on the brake pedal,i asked her to not put her foot on the brake when she starts the car and it hasn't had a blown globe since.  i also put it down to a spike in voltage when the car is started.    I've seen the volt gauge on my scangauge II shoot up to 14.5 volts a few times in the morning when I've started my car,that cant be good for our globes. 

[syecadelic]

welcome aboard winter.    starting your car with the head lights switched on could cause them to blow due to a spike in voltage.    my wife's cw has had six blown brake light globes in just under three years of ownership. i found that when she started her car she was putting her foot on the brake pedal,i asked her to not put her foot on the brake when she starts the car and it hasn't had a blown globe since.  i also put it down to a spike in voltage when the car is started.    I've seen the volt gauge on my scangauge II shoot up to 14.5 volts a few times in the morning when I've started my car,that cant be good for our globes. 

14.5 is roughly what id see also, with it dropping to about 10ish on cranking.

[2i30s]

yeah, around that.  on idle its about 12.8v to 13.2v. 

[Asterix]

You can fit this gizmo to prevent the voltage spikes:

From the add: (Google translate)
Use for power plants where surge often causes eg. broken bulbs, etc. Berne Topspændingsbegrænser used in 12 V power grid and prevent unnecessary disappointments and costs due to replacement of electrical components.

In plain Danish English: It cut off the voltage pikes, and is easy to mount directly on the battery.

http://shop.berner.eu/berner/dk/productgroup/129963/Personbil/Auto_elektrik/Diverse/Problemloseren_?conversationContext=1

[Phil №❶]

That device can not work. If it is connected to the battery, then the battery MIGHT be protected. The car headlights draw their power & volts directly from the alternator. The voltage regulator is housed inside the alternator. 

[Keith]

A benefit of fitting my DRL's... I now nolonger have to drive with headlights on... saves the headlamp bulbs... and the DRL's are brighter than sidelights... however I dont see this affecting petrol versions or am I mistaken?

[tla]

That device can not work. If it is connected to the battery, then the battery MIGHT be protected. The car headlights draw their power & volts directly from the alternator. The voltage regulator is housed inside the alternator. 

Yes, while the engine is on, power is drawn from the alternator.  But, the positive battery terminal is physically connected (through a fusible link) to the positive terminal on the alternator.  The positive terminals of all the electrical equipment in the car eventually ends up at the positive terminal of the battery.   

Actually, the battery provides some filtering of the output from the alternator.  However, I remember reading somewhere that it is only effective at filtering out noise below 1KHz.

That device can not work. If it is connected to the battery, then the battery MIGHT be protected. The car headlights draw their power & volts directly from the alternator.

This is just wrong... sorry.

Actually, the battery provides some filtering of the output from the alternator.  However, I remember reading somewhere that it is only effective at filtering out noise below 1KHz.

I don't think the battery is much help either. Remember the battery has a high internal impedance by nature, else it would quickly go flat.

You can fit this gizmo to prevent the voltage spikes:

Preventing spikes is quite hard to do (simply) and while I didn't even look at the link I'd be sceptical of its value.

The best option is to turn the lights off when starting. This assumes the starter motor is the source of spikes which in turn also assumes spikes are the cause of the light failure.

The accessories, radio etc are disconnected during starting so I wonder why the lights aren't as well?  In the "olden days" of which I'm sure many here remember it was often the difference between starting or not whether the lights were on or not when whizzing the starter so we always had them off. 

[Phil №❶]

That device can not work. If it is connected to the battery, then the battery MIGHT be protected. The car headlights draw their power & volts directly from the alternator.

This is just wrong... sorry.
[

Please explain 

[Opa_1]

Coincidently I have just had the passenger side low beam blow but I can't complain as I always have my headlights on and just ticked over 41k km's.
I am going to replace both sides and keep the good one I take out as quick spare. I have a Crdi.

[tla]

Actually, the battery provides some filtering of the output from the alternator.  However, I remember reading somewhere that it is only effective at filtering out noise below 1KHz.

I don't think the battery is much help either. Remember the battery has a high internal impedance by nature, else it would quickly go flat.

Do you mean internal resistance?  Actually lead-acid batteries have a very low internal resistance, which allow them to handle high current draws (such as when starting an engine) without a significant drop in voltage.  google "internal resistance of car batteries" for reference.

That device can not work. If it is connected to the battery, then the battery MIGHT be protected. The car headlights draw their power & volts directly from the alternator.

This is just wrong... sorry.
[

Please explain 

Let me quote tla, something I should have acknowledged before because I think he has it right.

Yes, while the engine is on, power is drawn from the alternator.  But, the positive battery terminal is physically connected (through a fusible link) to the positive terminal on the alternator.  The positive terminals of all the electrical equipment in the car eventually ends up at the positive terminal of the battery.   

Actually, the battery provides some filtering of the output from the alternator.  However, I remember reading somewhere that it is only effective at filtering out noise below 1KHz.

I don't think the battery is much help either. Remember the battery has a high internal impedance by nature, else it would quickly go flat.

Do you mean internal resistance?  Actually lead-acid batteries have a very low internal resistance, which allow them to handle high current draws (such as when starting an engine) without a significant drop in voltage.  google "internal resistance of car batteries" for reference.

No I meant impedance as I was referring to its ability to suppress spikes which are effectively A/C waveforms and so the reactive components of the battery need to be considered not its DC resistance. To wavelengths expected from hash spikes, I'd expect the battery to look pretty much like an open circuit.

WRT to going flat I was referring to internal leakage and probably irrelevant in the context of spikes. My mistake.
 

[Phil №❶]

That device can not work. If it is connected to the battery, then the battery MIGHT be protected. The car headlights draw their power & volts directly from the alternator. The voltage regulator is housed inside the alternator. 

Yes, while the engine is on, power is drawn from the alternator.  But, the positive battery terminal is physically connected (through a fusible link) to the positive terminal on the alternator.  The positive terminals of all the electrical equipment in the car eventually ends up at the positive terminal of the battery.   


Actually, the battery provides some filtering of the output from the alternator.  However, I remember reading somewhere that it is only effective at filtering out noise below 1KHz.

On that basis, I stand by my original statement. The source of the voltage spikes is not the battery. More likely the alternator voltage regulator and or the starter motor.

Yes, I agree... I can think of no way that the battery could ever be implicated. To blow the globes/bulbs together suggests a momentary (or perhaps prolonged) high voltage sufficient to exceed the filament fusion threshold. The battery itself never goes over ~13 volts. The lamps will be rated for ~14.5 (normal regulated voltage) so a voltage spike of maybe 40 or 50 volts for a period of some miliseconds could do it.  All supposition but logical...

The alternator is not likely to produce this voltage at cranking speeds so even if the regulator failed to regulate completely (passed full voltage straight through) it wont be enough.

Leaves the starter... there will be a lot of current drawn and any commutator spark could produce large spikes I suggest.... again I don't really know, just guessing.

[Dazzler]

Has anyone compared the starter motor for the CRDi to the starter motor for the Petrol Models?.... Would it have a higher rating? (I'm guessing so) 

[Phil №❶]

AFAIK They're entirely different engines produced at different locations so I'd say different starter motors. I can tell by the sound ours make when cranking that they are quite heavily geared down to reduce the load on the battery. Sound a bit like the old Chrysler Valiant starter motor. 

[Dazzler]