ESP OFF when start engine in cold mornings

watcher · **February 01, 2012, 16:51:22**

If it's very cold, below -15deg C (or 5 F), after starting the engine, the ESP OFF light remains on; it is not going off if I press the ESP OFF button, but only if I stop and restart the engine after a few minutes.
In service, the computer diagnose did not show any error code, so I'm kind in the dark. Have to mention my i30 is aprox. 1 year old, so the battery should be ok.
Please let me know if anyone here have the same issue.

icey_niels · **Reply #1: February 01, 2012, 17:31:56**

I think it has something to do with the cold. Battery's discharge at cold temperature and it could be that that (volt)value of the battery could be a little to low so that computer of your car could think that you removed the battery. There is a trick by turning your steering wheel but i don't know the right procedure.

You could google it or try the search on this forum

grtzz

syecadelic · **Reply #2: February 01, 2012, 20:12:09**

Sounds like the its the power of the battery, usually when you jump start a dead battery, you will find your ESP OFF light is on, due to the low battery voltage, after the battery has charged a while, and you restart the car ESP is on, I assume this is the reason

**Reply #3: February 02, 2012, 06:56:25**

Funny that everyone thinks the battery is the culprit including the OP. I have no idea what the cause is but if the battery was incapable of providing sufficient voltage when the engine is running (the alternator is providing the energy then anyway) it would have to be so crook that it surely wouldn't even start the engine.

syecadelic · **Reply #4: February 02, 2012, 09:30:45**

Quote from: Pip on February 02, 2012, 06:56:25

Funny that everyone thinks the battery is the culprit including the OP. I have no idea what the cause is but if the battery was incapable of providing sufficient voltage when the engine is running (the alternator is providing the energy then anyway) it would have to be so crook that it surely wouldn't even start the engine.

hmmm.Fair point... im going cold weather as the other factor tho.

Asterix · **Reply #5: February 02, 2012, 20:37:37**

If meehalych doesn't have the problem, then it's not the cold weather. (Don't know if he have ESP fitted as his car is petrol)

Remember when the car is starting, most of the power from the battery is used to drive the startermotor. If the ESP is sensitive about voltage, low power on the battery could be the problem.

Watcher, do you have many short trips, with heated seats, heated rear window and mirrors on..?

That could drain the battery.

Shambles · **Reply #6: February 02, 2012, 21:35:54**

Would be useful to know a little more about Watchers i30, petrol/diesel etc, and whether it has TPMS fitted.

I'm guessing you're in Romania, Watcher?

watcher · **Reply #7: February 03, 2012, 06:23:17**

Yes, I'm from Romania. My i30 is 1.4 petrol, 109HP and is the facelift version from 2011. The issue with ESP OFF ligth is still present every morning (temperature is low -20C...-15C). I do not understand why this kind of failure did not appear at regular computer diagnose.

Shambles · **Reply #8: February 03, 2012, 08:27:54**

Do you have tyre pressure monitoring system (TPMS) ?

syecadelic · **Reply #9: February 03, 2012, 09:03:38**

Quote from: watcher on February 03, 2012, 06:23:17

Yes, I'm from Romania. My i30 is 1.4 petrol, 109HP and is the facelift version from 2011. The issue with ESP OFF ligth is still present every morning (temperature is low -20C...-15C). I do not understand why this kind of failure did not appear at regular computer diagnose.

Think would be something for the dealer to look at? Could be a technical fault with the car.

watcher · **Reply #10: February 03, 2012, 09:44:06**

Computer diagnose has been made at the dealer service house; I don't have TPMS (tyre pressure...).

syecadelic · **Reply #11: February 03, 2012, 10:27:27**

Quote from: watcher on February 03, 2012, 09:44:06

Computer diagnose has been made at the dealer service house; I don't have TPMS (tyre pressure...).

I assume no error codes were presented?

watcher · **Reply #12: February 03, 2012, 10:30:36**

Yes, no error codes.

syecadelic · **Reply #13: February 03, 2012, 10:57:32**

Have they had other cars with the same problem?
If you try and start your car, while connected to another car with jump leads (have the other car on) this will help give your car more power while starting, this can help eliminate the possibility that its a low battery when cranking.

If the issue still happens, then back to the drawing board

Phil №❶ · **Reply #14: February 03, 2012, 11:00:57**

Be careful jump starting from other cars. ECU's can be damaged by voltage spikes and surges. There are modern day jumper leads designed for these types of vehicles.

syecadelic · **Reply #15: February 03, 2012, 11:10:06**

Quote from: 847563 on February 03, 2012, 11:00:57

Be careful jump starting from other cars. ECU's can be damaged by voltage spikes and surges. There are modern day jumper leads designed for these types of vehicles.

Ground the jump lead to the chassis?

Phil №❶ · **Reply #16: February 03, 2012, 11:18:09**

Actually, that won't protect the ECU, as there is still a surge, no matter where the - lead is connected.

To protect the ECU, I switch on the parking lights on the flat vehicle so there is somewhere for the surge to go, on connection.

The - lead should ALWAYS be connected to the chassis, NOT THE BATTERY. Explosive gasses which are produced by trying to start the car, can be ignited by the surge spark and cause the battery to explode. I normally connect to one of the suspension bolts on the wheel strut, closest to the starter motor.

syecadelic · **Reply #17: February 03, 2012, 11:38:34**

Quote from: 847563 on February 03, 2012, 11:18:09

Actually, that won't protect the ECU, as there is still a surge, no matter where the - lead is connected.

To protect the ECU, I switch on the parking lights on the flat vehicle so there is somewhere for the surge to go, on connection.

The - lead should ALWAYS be connected to the chassis, NOT THE BATTERY. Explosive gasses which are produced by trying to start the car, can be ignited by the surge spark and cause the battery to explode. I normally connect to one of the suspension bolts on the wheel strut, closest to the starter motor.

Thanks, shall have to remember that, usually just connect straight to the battery terminals. Was shown on T.V once a while ago.
Does this apply to booster packs also ?

Phil №❶ · **Reply #18: February 03, 2012, 11:52:41**

Yes, the flat battery will hungrily feed from any power source. :neutral

icey_niels · **Reply #19: February 03, 2012, 19:05:09**

You can try to put a charger on your battery maybe it helps to get more juice when you start

snowcherry · **Reply #20: February 04, 2012, 12:37:17**

i will disagree with the cold culpritising. i have had this happen a few times and it's never cold here (in comparison to most of the world at least). trying to think when it has happened and can't put my finger on it but once was when i had locked the car somehow (the steering wheel or something) and took me a few go's to get it to start. so connected to the ignition somehow? i have no idea.

p.s have had a couple of battery issues - going flat etc - in past to but can't recall if they were connected. don't think so but memory shot

2i30s · **Reply #21: February 04, 2012, 23:10:59**

I'm sure that we found the culprit too be a faulty brake light switch,my wife's cw had the same fault.

succulant · **Reply #22: February 06, 2012, 15:42:04**

I had to take my battery out to replace a headlight bulb and when it was re-fitted my ESP OFF light came on, however it disappeared after switching the car off after a 10 min drive and starting it up again. Having checked the owners handbook it says the following -

"After reconnecting or recharging a discharged battery the ESP OFF inducator may illuminate. In this case, turn the steering wheel half way to the left and right whilst the ignition switch is in the ON position. Then restart the engine after the ignition is off. If the ESP OFF indicator does not turn off, have the system checked by a Hyundai authorised repairer as soon as possible".

So it would seem that its possible that the cold can caused the battery to discharge to a sufficient amount that the warning light comes on.

Lorian · **Reply #23: February 06, 2012, 21:28:14**

Quote from: succulant on February 06, 2012, 15:42:04

"After reconnecting or recharging a discharged battery the ESP OFF inducator may illuminate. In this case, turn the steering wheel half way to the left and right whilst the ignition switch is in the ON position. Then restart the engine after the ignition is off. If the ESP OFF indicator does not turn off, have the system checked by a Hyundai authorised repairer as soon as possible".

That would be the EPS light, and what you describe is the sterring torque sensor calibration routing required after disconnecting the battery.

Assuming things haven't changed the most common reason for a flat battery would be the tail not shutting properly, leaving the inside lights on. Fixed by screwing the bump rubbers in a little.

Lots of things can cause an ESP OFF condition.

gone · **Reply #24: February 07, 2012, 10:51:21**

Quote from: watcher on February 01, 2012, 16:51:22

If it's very cold, below -15deg C (or 5 F), after starting the engine, the ESP OFF light remains on; it is not going off if I press the ESP OFF button, but only if I stop and restart the engine after a few minutes.

@watcher: I have exactly the same thing: I have driven a 1.6 CDRI in the last three years. It has always happened when the weather is cold (near 0 ° C) and a little damp.
The service dealer says it could be low energy on startup.

Glacius · **Reply #25: February 07, 2012, 16:13:12**

HI mate

I had this happening to me the other day i was minus 18- degrees celcius and it would go on at all, I then stopped the engine , and restarted the car
I then left it a bit on the start with the glow for a while so it could get some time, then i started it and the light was gone and it was working again

This has only happend to me once but it was only when it was this cold wich is almost rarely is .

Benrooney · **Reply #26: February 28, 2012, 00:09:29**

i have noticed this today with a friends i30, it was when the battery had drainned down after being stud, but after a short journey, turned off and back on again it seemed to be ok! hope this helps!

Ben

Dazzler · **Reply #27: February 28, 2012, 11:40:38**

Hi Ben & Welcome (your avatar has made me thirty

) and I'm not much of a drinker