[Duckman]

I know the manual suggests to have a run in period of around 1000km (600m~), but I was interested in how long you'd let your car have it easy before you unleash the... fury... of the i30?

I am touching 1500km after two weeks of owning it, and I still take it very slow and casually as to ensure smooth, slow acceleration. Given, I have opened the throttle a few times to see what it can do (and I am more than impressed), but I make sure it has had ample warm up time (oil generally takes 15-20 minutes to warm up. Ignore the water temp meter, that's just.. water temp  ).

[tzwientjuh]

I've put the car to it's max at 330km. Just once. Always drive normally.

After 1000km I used the car normally with sometimes driving at high speeds and hard acceleration.

It's not like the old days anymore. In the past you have to run a period to make the car .... well "runned in"

But now the cars are already street ready so actually you don't need to do a period. But for safety reason they still say to do a period of 1000km.

[Shambles]

I'm just glad I didn't "follow the book", as it says to keep the revs below 4000rpm, which would be near redlining it. A mistake I think by the author.

I couldn't wait for the first 1000k (600m) to show on the clock. After that it was.. well.. more of the same. Easy driving which I prefer, especially with the stupid idiotic drivers we have over here

[Duckman]

I'm just glad I didn't "follow the book", as it says to keep the revs below 4000rpm, which would be near redlining it. A mistake I think by the author.

May have been the petrol manual they gave you

[G14Classified101]

Yeah the petrol manual say keep it between 2500 and 4000, if you drive like a grandpa (no offence) and shift to early you will glaze the cylinders and pistons, drive it too hard and cause premature scoring and cylinder ware. However i took mine to redline a few times before 1000km just to loosen the engine a little.

But you will eventually notice a difference in acceleration from the engine and engine decellerating by it self (when shifting gears the new engine will drop rpm faster than when the engine is worn in a little). At this stage do what you like thrash it, drive like a granny, or just obey the law and enjoy some spirited street driving

[dacho]

My run in peroid was 4000 km, and after that I start do killing my I30 

Well, I change my oil every 7500 km and put in Mobil1 5W-50 Racing oil, my first change was on 2500 km.
I like to go on track when I have time so only the best for my Hyunda  8)

[Dazzler]

Hi Dacho I like your signature...

My run in peroid was 4000 km, and after that I start do killing my I30 

Yep, probably right!

Well, I change my oil every 7500 km and put in Mobil1 5W-50 Racing oil, my first change was on 2500 km.
I like to go on track when I have time so only the best for my Hyunda  8)

Mobil-1 5w50 viscosity is: cSt @ 100º C = 17.4 which is pretty thick stuff compared to that recommended for "normal" use being 30/40 (cST @ 100 = ~13).  No matter which engine you have, unless you achieve unusually high engine temperatures during your "on track" runs it will probably not raise the oil temperature sufficiently to "thin" a 50 grade to correct operating viscosity - and particularly a good synthetic oil designed not to thin-out!

And what about the rest of the time when you are not flogging it?  Sorry, wrong oil.  These are better used on old Aussie iron.

If you want to drive outside the normal boundary (and I applaud that if that's your want  ) I recommend you fit an oil temperature (probably the most valuable) and pressure gauge to see what is going on, if you don't already, and stick with the best oil at normal viscosities.  Any 0w40 oil should hold up.

My opinion only, FWIW.

[dacho]

Well my english is not good, soo I don't know how to explaine you why I put these oil. My temperature of oil on track is around 130 celsius.

I before had Getz 1.6 with few modifications (120 ks) and I put in it a 10W-60 Oil and never in 60000 km of killing the car on the track and normal driving every day I have no problems. The engine is like new.

I have a Hyundai service and I tune Mazda's in my spare time, and never I have any problems with chossing oil for my engines.

Maybe I don't understend you, because I repet my english is poor

[Duckman]

5-50 is far too thick for a new car. Like what has already been suggested, this is much more suited to older cars, at least 20+ years old!

My friend runs 0-15/20 (can't remember which) in his Barina SRi, and it's way thin. His engines tak tak taks for 2-3 minutes whilst it warms up!

I used 10-30 in my Getz. It must be the same for the i30, but I have yet to change the oil

My temperature of oil on track is around 130 celsius.

That's hot!  I would probably address the overheating with an oil cooler instead of bumping the viscosity.  Like I already wondered: what's going on with this oil when you are not doing the hard stuff on the track?  Too thick.  Better to keep the working viscosity near to optimum in all conditions.

Having said that, if you want to run track work, I'd probably drain the oil anyway before and after each day at the track and put the best oil in for each situation.  Particularly because I reckon your oil is probably rooted after a day at the track if it runs 130⁰C!

Your track experience is well beyond mine (zero) so I'm very happy to bow to your greater experience.

[Lakes]

Hi Dacho, i understand you fine.

Hi Duckman, depends on piston to bore tolorance, but would expect mass production to be on safe side. the way i ran in my diesel would be different to,the way i have always ran in petrol motors.
good luck lakes

[dacho]

Here in Croatia we put 5W-40 Shell or Castrol in I30, it is recomendation by general Hyundai importer, we have a hyundai service since 1989 and all Beta and Beta II engines don't like 0W oil, very fast they start to burn oil, its normal, so we put in brand new Beta engines 5W and then when they start to burn oil we put 10W.

Here in Croatia, I don't know for any Hyundai car with Beta or Beta II engine (2.0 litre) that is not consuption any oil after 50000 km. Some new cars are burning oil, the brand new and that is normal because the Hyundai write in their service book that is normal to consume 0.7 liter on 1500 km.

[Lakes]

Hi again Dacho, what temperature range would cars in your country be runing at mostly?
here in Australia we could be runing in anything from 5C to 50+C.

[dacho]

The teperature range is from -20C to +38C. In winter for a period of 3 months the temperature is from -20C to +5C, and in the summer the temperature is from +20C to +38C

It's not that hot like in Australia 

[Lakes]

The teperature range is from -20C to +38C. In winter for a period of 3 months the temperature is from -20C to +5C, and in the summer the temperature is from +20C to +38C

It's not that hot like in Australia 

Australia gets to extreams in some places other places like Tasmania state where Dazz is is milder, but they can have it very humid down there at times too.
i don't think some people here that post on what oil weight you should use ever look inside motors just read up online about oil's.
cheers

[ComfortMatt]

I gave mine exactly 600 miles before i had a little blip  8) . Its done 4000 miles now and is running great, very nippy for a 1.4. As for the oils, here in boring england  i put 10w/40 in everything, but then you can always guaratee its going to be about 0-10oC lol.