[ToMoCo]

A little issue I'm hoping someone can help with.

The brake warning light on the dash won't go out unless I give a little extra push down on the handbrake lever.  The lever feels a little 'springy' in the off position, sometimes it springs back up a little and the light comes on again, It will also flicker on/off when going over bumps.

The car went into Hyundai yesterday to get a new rear view mirror fitted and I mention this to them.

Their recommended cure is new Discs/pads all round at a cost of £481.42 #sigh

The car is a 2011 1.6 CRDi with just under 39k miles

Anyone else had a problem with the handbrake switch?

[eye30]

Their recommended cure is new Discs/pads all round at a cost of £481.42 #sigh

How many miles since last service?
Did they mention at last service?
Did they mention what thickness left on both?
Is it all or just front or back or just 1 wheel?
At last service, 2nd, don't they actually service brakes by removing etc?

Ok i think both disc and pads are 2 year warranty so if not mentioned then wonder if fault with cylinders
Or didn't follow service schedule.

I can't see how what they mentioned will cure this unless the cables are snagged/taught and require slacking off or with new parts makes the cables sit better.

[ToMoCo]

How many miles since last service?
Did they mention at last service?
Did they mention what thickness left on both?
Is it all or just front or back or just 1 wheel?
At last service, 2nd, don't they actually service brakes by removing etc?

Ok i think both disc and pads are 2 year warranty so if not mentioned then wonder if fault with cylinders
Or didn't follow service schedule.

I can't see how what they mentioned will cure this unless the cables are snagged/taught and require slacking off or with new parts makes the cables sit better.

Only had the car for 5 months, last owner dealt with first two services - I only have a stamped book - no invoices.

No mention of thickness just "front and rear pads 90% worn and discs wearing thin"

[eye30]

Was service done at garage you bought from or locally?

They  log all work done, service, warranty and other work, on the hy data base so i'm told.

They should be able to see what done.

May be the selling garage should cover cost -sale of  goods act.

Doesn't seem right new discs at 39k

Pads may be as others on here have mentioned they wear out quickly but i think this was due to other factors sych as sticking cylinders.

[ToMoCo]

Doesn't seem right new discs at 39k

Pads may be as others on here have mentioned they wear out quickly but i think this was due to other factors sych as sticking cylinders.

ATM I'm thinking they may have been on a fishing expedition - just looking through the wheels I can see a good 8mm left on the pads.  I'm going to get the car inside on Sunday, get the wheels off and measure the discs.

[eye30]

Or they can't be bothered to adjust the cabling as i believe it a sod to do fiddling thro' the little hole in the arm rest.

so looking to make you pay for a simple job but a sod to do

[Asterix]

Hi ToMoCo

 

Hmm. Changing the disc's and pads in the front wont change anything, right..

Changing the disc's and pads in the rear won't change anything either, as the handbrake is the drum kind of handbrake inside the rear brakedisc.

You say you have 8mm brakepad left. Is that with or without the metal backside of the pad's..  

Just before our summer Holiday, which is 3500 km with 1400 kg caravan through Europe, I measured on the front brakes, 4 mm left of the useable part of the pad. I was afraid it wasn't enough for the long trip with that much load, but now 15.000 km later, they haven't worn out yet. 

A few weeks ago I found that the handbrake was sticking, it wouldn't release properly. Turned out to be the arm the handbrake cable is attached to at the brakedrum. A little grease into the drum through the hole where the grommet is, solved the problem. It was to grease the pivot point of the arm for the cable.

I think this could be your issue as well.

[Lakes]

 
 
I did 97,000k ( about 58,000 miles on first i30 pads still lots left in them, but the hand brake uses a drum & is adjusted like a drum brake. you just need to remove rear wheels, undo two big phillips head screws remove rear disc brake calliper give the disc centre  ( thats the drum brake ) a few good taps with a mallet ( hard taps if rubber, soft taps if metal ) then with hand brake off removed it take a look. some owners drive with the hand brake on .

[Surferdude]

39000 miles is waaaay too low to be needing pads all round.
I agree. Measure the pad material depth and challenge them on their recommendation.

[ToMoCo]

Thanks all, will report back tomorrow after I get the wheels off and take some measurements.

[ToMoCo]

Right, just had all the wheels off for a better look.

My first concern (but I'll reserve judgement until hopefully some of you in the know can advise), It was an absolute pig of a job to get the wheels off, starting with a gentle kick top/bottom/left right trying to free the wheel form the hub, nothing. A harder kick worried about actually knocking it off the jack), nothing, Lump hammer and block of wood, nothing. I had to lower the car back on it's own weight to free them. This suggests to me that the wheels haven't been off for a while, but I'm not sure - how long does it take an alloy to 'weld' itself to the hub? can this happen over days?

I have 16" wheels but 280mm discs, I was expecting 300mm discs, but not sure?

Anyway, some measurements.

Front Driver side Disc 26mm thick. Outside pad 7mm, Inside 4-5mm

Front Passenger Side Disc 26mm , Outside pad 5mm, inside 5mm

Rear Driver side Disc about 9.something mm, Outside pad 5mm, Inside 4-5mm

Rear Passenger side Disc 9mm, outside pad 9mm, Inside 5-6mm.

Seems to be a difference on the wear at the rear, but still not exactly 90% worn and 'Safety Critical' was how they put it?

[Phil №❶]

Scotland is a hilly place and I can only assume the previous owner was hard on brakes and not using the correct technique for controlling the vehicle. Perhaps he / she was a Hypermiler. The distance you've covered is way short of the replacement distance in Australia.

However, hopefully someone here can give you the safe minimums for the brake pads, I'm not sure, so I won't quote any figures.

When it comes to cost, I would recommend that you source original pads from eBay or somewhere similar, because Hyundai will overcharge for any parts they supply. This also applies to filters at servicing time too. The replacement of the pads should not take too much time, so your cost should be a lot lower than the original quote.

[Asterix]

The fact that you have to hammer the wheels off indicates that the wheels haven't been off the car for at least 6 month, propably a lot longer. 

As for the thickness of the brakepads, I assume the Measurements are without the backplate. If yes, then there's a lot of kilometers left in them.

The different thickness of the brakepads tells me that all the moving parts on the brakecalipers needs a good clean and fresh grease. The different thickness doesn't mean anything safety wise.

[ToMoCo]

Yeah, those measurements are the 'meaty' bit of the pad, so to speak.

I think it's safe to assume they were trying it on.

I will strip it all down next weekend and clean it up.  See what I can do about the handbrake light too while I have the callipers off.

[AlanHo]

My UK GD i30 has brake pads with an inbuilt acoustic warning when they reach minimum thickness. It is a high pitched squeal.  It is mentioned in my Owners Manual in the section Driving Your Vehicle - Brake System

I would guess that this warning is set at 2 to 3mm minimum thickness.


Check your manual to see whether it is the same.

[Asterix]

My UK GD i30 has brake pads with an inbuilt acoustic warning when they reach minimum thickness. It is a high pitched squeal.  It is mentioned in my Owners Manual in the section Driving Your Vehicle - Brake System

I would guess that this warning is set at 2 to 3mm minimum thickness.


Check your manual to see whether it is the same.

Same on my FD. There a piece of metal on the brakepad hitting the disc before the pad is worn out. Last time I had the pads out, I grinded the metal thingy Down so it won't scream before it's absolutely necessary. 

[eye30]

This was on the getz i posted about.

The metal is very soft and it rubs against the disc.
Do soft it does not mark the disc.

[Surferdude]

Yeah, those measurements are the 'meaty' bit of the pad, so to speak.

I think it's safe to assume they were trying it on.

I will strip it all down next weekend and clean it up.  See what I can do about the handbrake light too while I have the callipers off.

I would be a little concerned about the difference in thickness between the inner and outer pads.
I'm pretty sure they aren't "floating" calipers so the wear rate should be the same inside and out, UNLESS you have a couple of sticking caliper pistons.

Before stripping down, drive the car until the brakes are at operating temperature, then jack up each wheel and make sure it spins freely. Any wheel which doesn't probably has a caliper problem.
Start with the wheels which have the biggest variance in pad thickness.

[ToMoCo]

I'm mildly concerned by the difference in wear, but will get it all cleaned up and see how it goes.  Don't think I've ever changed pads that haven't had a difference.

I'm more concerned about the dealer who is possibly trying to shaft me for £500, and with a service due in March, I really don't want to give them the work. 

[eye30]

I'm more concerned about the dealer who is possibly trying to shaft me for £500, and with a service due in March, I really don't want to give them the work.

Here is an idea.

Go back and ask them for a fully detailed written quote of the problem and how they intend to rectify it.

Make it clear that no work is to be done.

If they still insisted than the work which they quoted verbally is required then refer this to hy hq and trading standards as from your examination this is not correct.

If they ask any questions as why you want written just be like a pokitian and ignore them.

[eye30]

Here is an interesting recall which may relate to this issue

http://www.recalluk.com/recalls/cars/hyundai-i30-parking-brake-recall-2013.aspx

[ToMoCo]

Thanks mate, but that relates to Jan/Feb 2012 built dates. Mine is 2011.

[eye30]

Thanks mate, but that relates to Jan/Feb 2012 built dates. Mine is 2011.

Ok but if you mention it at the dealers they may/should check the system just to make sure your vin hasn't been subjeft to a recall, if any sort.

[i30sean]

My 59 plate had new pads all round at 44K they tried the old disc's are lipped complete bollox. I bought the pads from Hyundai and mate fitted them told me the discs were fine.
My handbrake silver knob broke off last year they replaced the whole handbrake under warranty when I had the car serviced.

i30Sean