[LuciferDarklord]

I decided to install a Xenon HID hi beam kit as the hi beams were pretty dismal while driving in country areas.  Seeing as the sun is going down early these days, I'm driving at night a lot more.  I went for a Kaixen H1 6000K set from eBay.  They claim to be the OEM supplier for Hyundai Xenons in vehicles fitted from the factory.  I had a few issues installing mine - it wasnt all plug-and-play as claimed.  I'm still waiting to hear back from Kaixen on solutions.  I'd probably save the money and go for a cheap Chinese kit next time as the premium $$$ dont seem worth it.  Before I started on the install, I marked the shed door where the edges of the low beam were so I could check alignment afterwards.

Remove the two 10mm bolts on top of the headlight.


Remove the other 10mm bolt behind the headlight assy.


Unclip and remove the wiring harness plug from the rear of the headlight.


Gently prise the headlight assy from the car.  Try lifting the bottom edge up slightly.  If it doesnt want to come out, push it back in and try another angle.



Pic of the assy removed from the car


Both headlights removed


Flashy Kaixen box, and whats inside



Instructions..  Pretty basic stuff, but......


Remove the cap from behind the Hi Beam


The H1 bulb and plug.

[LuciferDarklord]

They suggest a 22mm holesaw for the grommet hole in the cap. 7/8" spade drill bit worked a treat.


Drill a small pilot hole first (smaller than the tip of the spade drill bit so it doesnt wobble around)


Then the main hole 22mm.


Use a half-round file and thumbnail to remove any swarf and rough edges.  This will help the grommet to seal and stop moisture getting in.  Just be gentle so as not to enlarge the hole.


End result..  Clean edges


Fit the wires thru the hole and install the grommet.


The bulb is just a little too fat to fit in the hole in the headlight assy!?!?!?  I had to use a small round file to enlarge the hole a little, then blow the dust out of the inside of the headlight with compressed air 


The H1 terminal plug has one center +ve socket, and a ground clip for the -ve.  The stupid Kaixen kit has two male spades!?!?  I had to do some adapting to fit the -ve lead 


Fit a 'tap in' connection, with a new -ve lead with a female terminal.  I used red wire as it was all I head in heavy gauge, even tho its a -ve wire.


Wiring complete, just had to tape up the bare terminals.

[LuciferDarklord]

Cap on.  Gently pull the slack out of the wires inside.


The ballast came with some nice thick, strong double sided pad, but I used a cable tie as backup.



Result..  Not quite as blue in real life.

[eye30]

Hope they do you proud oh and by the way well presented step by step guide.

[LuciferDarklord]

End result is pretty good, not as good as a decent set of spotties, but a lot neater on the outside.  Be interesting to see if Kaixen have an adapter or something to make it easier to 'plug and play' on the wiring side of things.

[Shambles]

Excellent walk-thru and a very useful guide. Thanks

Doesn't Oz law say you need water washers and/or levelling motors fitting as well?

[LuciferDarklord]

I think it does, but I figure its on the hi-beams - I shouldnt have them turned on whenever another car is coming the other way anyway.  Trucks over here have an array of spotties on the front that would be visible from the moon, so I think it should be OK

[EpOcH]

Nice writeup, looks simple enough to do

Couple of questions, your obviously in the middle of nowhere judging by that nice red dirt that ive seen a bit of in the last week driving from Adelaide->Brisbane (or you like dirt road adventures  ), do you really think the highbeam needed the upgrade ? some of the road signs on my journey were next to impossible to read until i was ontop of them with highbeam in the early hours of the morning, they glared too much (with standard lights) although this could have something to do with a bootload of luggage and kids in the backseat.

Also did you get to pick it as a high beam kit or is it universal ? the reason i ask is the globe seems to have a shield on it that is diffusing/removing light going upwards in the lamp which would make it a little less effective than what it should be for highbeam(required if you were using it in a low beam scenario though), highbeam globes dont normally have this as the purpose of the lamp is to get light from all angles in use as there are no light cutoffs in the high beam lamp.

Last but not least have you had any issues of Green distance road signs turning a purple colour with the blue light ? or its not that prominent ?

[Dazzler]

Great Stuff L-D..

Two Questions...

How much do you call Premium $$?

When Thumper installed his he had to put some sort of Shield in the light to stop the light scattering (you had no problems that way)?

[LuciferDarklord]

Epoch, are you talking about the white rod that runs alongside the bulb?  It looks like a igniter wire or something.  It is orientated upwards, but the light definitely isn't blocked from going upwards.  H1 is normally only used for hi beams or driving lights so I didn't worry too much about it.  I haven't had any issues so far with road signs, obviously they do reflect a lot more with the higher light output, but I needed an upgrade the standard hi-beams I found quite lacking.  Only thing that annoys me a little is the initial start-up warmup, and red signs (like the mummy and kiddy crossing the road) signs look a little purple.  As for the dirt roads, i have to drive on them kinda regularly, and my driveway is gravel and about 200m long.  The 'mud' splatter was from a huge puddle that i hit near some roadworks, they had a dirt bank built up and a lot of water had pooled at the bottom of a slight 'valley'.  The trucks had been pumping water up the bank and the water coming back in was like mud.  I had a trailer on at the time - I hit it at about 80km/h - dint know if the ESP intervened but the car stayed very straight.

Daz, they cost $237.95 plus $24.95 for freight from eBay.  I didn't bother with scatter Shields as they are only used when no-one is coming towards me (Hi Beam).  I might be wrong but I think the scatter Shields only help for reducing glare to oncoming drivers (lo-beam). 

Do you guys think I need scatter Shields for hi beam?

[Dazzler]

Hi L-D ,

That sounds logical about only needing the scatter shields for low beam...I wouldn't worry if you seem to be getting a fairly even throw with your high beam...

I only have about 80mtr driveway of gravel but I know how dirty my car is getting...

[LuciferDarklord]

I'm thinking of doing the low beams now - as the xenon's make the halogen lights seem like candles.  I wonder what exactly are these scatter shields.  I have read on a few other forums that if you have projector headlights (like i30) that the sharp cutoff negates the need for scatter shields.  I know it would be illegal but if I do it correctly I dont think I'll get pinged for it.  Its not very often I see cops at al lin my travels.  I'm mainly concerned about the etiquette and safety issues.  I do see quite a few dodgy installs travelling the other way that make me squint.

[yggy]

6500K ?! Too blue for my taste ... I have 4300K on my i30, white, pure white ...

[Waja]

yah, i put 4300k on my i30 as well. most lumen output (even though the bluish tinge does look very nice)

nice walkthrough though!

but im guessing you didnt run into the same probs as thumper where he said that the HIDs in the hi's are TOO bright and started reflecting off random stuff?

[Hemmi]

Great stuff LuciferDarklord

[EpOcH]

Epoch, are you talking about the white rod that runs alongside the bulb?  It looks like a igniter wire or something.  It is orientated upwards, but the light definitely isn't blocked from going upwards.  H1 is normally only used for hi beams or driving lights so I didn't worry too much about it.  I haven't had any issues so far with road signs, obviously they do reflect a lot more with the higher light output, but I needed an upgrade the standard hi-beams I found quite lacking.  Only thing that annoys me a little is the initial start-up warmup, and red signs (like the mummy and kiddy crossing the road) signs look a little purple.  As for the dirt roads, i have to drive on them kinda regularly, and my driveway is gravel and about 200m long.  The 'mud' splatter was from a huge puddle that i hit near some roadworks, they had a dirt bank built up and a lot of water had pooled at the bottom of a slight 'valley'.  The trucks had been pumping water up the bank and the water coming back in was like mud.  I had a trailer on at the time - I hit it at about 80km/h - dint know if the ESP intervened but the car stayed very straight.

Excellent , never really looked @ HID's , so the igniter looked fingernail shaped and long so i was assuming it would block a bit of light but looking closer i can see its more of a rod than a fingernail thing.

I think the road signs turning purple was initially one of the govt's issues with making a change over to them as a requirement in new cars (it was thought of at one stage). On my trip to/from brissy at night i think at times i could have done with a bit more light for confidence but other times the road signs glared quite badly bit of 50/50 there, although my car will hardly see night time roads outside of the city its not so much of a requirement now as it would be for you if you live out in it .

Do you guys think I need scatter Shields for hi beam?

Nope as long as its providing the light where you want it , it doesnt matter if it scatters a bit and your happy with it , you shouldnt be glaring oncoming traffic as much as trucks do with the bull lights just be aware that their bright and turn them off a little earlier maybe. I think the scatter shields would be more of a requirement if you were using them in low beam also but because of the DE light design the cutoff is done by a metal shield inside the low beam lamp, if anything adjusting it a little down should protect against bad glare to oncoming drivers.

[Waja]

yeah, the problem with the low beam is that the bulb only fits if the igniter is at the bottom, so thus you get a 'dark spot' on the ground directly infront of the vehicle in a V shape, so to an extent, the igniter will block a small part of the light shining up

yeah, the problem with the low beam is that the bulb only fits if the igniter is at the bottom, so thus you get a 'dark spot' on the ground directly infront of the vehicle in a V shape, so to an extent, the igniter will block a small part of the light shining up

I would have expected any interference to the beam between the bulb and reflector to show on the opposite side, i.e., if at the bottom the "shadow" would reflect upwards once it hits the reflector and not on the ground. Or is that what you said?

[LuciferDarklord]

6500K ?! Too blue for my taste ... I have 4300K on my i30, white, pure white ...

They are 6000K, yeah they are a little blue, but your eyes get used to it and then conventional lights look like a candle!

yah, i put 4300k on my i30 as well. most lumen output (even though the bluish tinge does look very nice)

nice walkthrough though!

but im guessing you didnt run into the same probs as thumper where he said that the HIDs in the hi's are TOO bright and started reflecting off random stuff?

Thanks. Not too bright really as they are only 35W.  Not nearly as bright as the spotties on my wifes Tucson.  You can adjust the focus on them they shine a long way down the road.

[Waja]

sorry to bring up an old topic..

but ever since i changed my low beams to HID's (a while back), every time i turn on the low beam flicks a bright blue, then goes dark and then eventually fades upto the right colour. i'm assuming that thats normal with HIDs....

BUT sometimes when i turn on the lights (only sometimes though) the stereo gets reset? like, it goes back to the "Searching USB" thing at the beginning and it starts from song 1 in the first folder again...would this be due to a voltage spike or something to do with the HID's? i can't remember this happening before i changed my low beams...and does this happen to anyone else that changed to HIDs?

[Dazzler]

sorry to bring up an old topic..

BUT sometimes when i turn on the lights (only sometimes though) the stereo gets reset? like, it goes back to the "Searching USB" thing at the beginning and it starts from song 1 in the first folder again...would this be due to a voltage spike or something to do with the HID's? i can't remember this happening before i changed my low beams...and does this happen to anyone else that changed to HIDs?

 

Bumping a previous topic isn't a problem (that's what they are there for)

Sounds like you might need a relay or something. The HIDs must be drawing a lot of current   

Unfortunately I'm no expert on auto electrics and I haven't installed a HID upgrade sorry...

[LuciferDarklord]

I get the 'flicker' before warm-up of the globes, but no other ill-effects, although I havent really driven much since the uprgrade, been offshore and now in UAE for work.  I did notice a few of the manufacturers of HID kits carry on about the ballasts being designed as to not interfere with the cars electronics.  Maybe there is some RF interference.  I think the cars with CAN bus are especially sensitive to RF.

[nutter67]

sorry to bring up an old topic..

but ever since i changed my low beams to HID's (a while back), every time i turn on the low beam flicks a bright blue, then goes dark and then eventually fades upto the right colour. i'm assuming that thats normal with HIDs....

From my experience with HID's (I have had them fitted to my motorbike for a while now and dont want to go back to QH globes) is that the globe will run with a normal operating voltage of around 20,000 volts, but to get them started from cold, they require a boost (from either an integrated ballast or a ballast with a seperate igniter) up to approx 30,000 volts.  this will account for the bright "flash" startup, then dropping down to a dark beam until gaining its normal intensity when the globe warms up to operating temperature.  This is completely normal, and also why I wouldnt recommend HID for high beam if you are a city driver who has to contend with more frequent oncoming traffic - the warm up time is too long, which also makes it no good for "flashing" oncoming traffic.  Maybe try PIAA or Osram nightbreakers instead.

[nutter67]

Has anybody who has HID's fitted to low beam found a difference in the focal length of the HID globe?  By this I mean the difference in the distance from the filament of the QH globe to the seating face of the base to the distance between the Xenon bulb and the seating face of the HID globe?

I have found in some motorcycle H7 HID units that there could be upto 6mm difference.

Also, how have you  made up for the difference in the base thickness between the two types of globes?  In the past I have had to use fibre tap washers (garden tap) to make a spacer behind the globe and the spring clip.

[freakzoide]

nutter67,
totally agree with you on the high beam xenon option. Also you are right on the "start up" time.

[LuciferDarklord]

Yeah the warm up time is a pain in the arse.  Lucky I dont get too much oncoming traffic, but it still is an issue with HID's.  I didnt realise they had to warm up until after I installed them.  I still would have done it but its definately a negative against HID's for hi-beams.

[i30mania]

Does anyone install a bi-xenon projector to i30 ?

Does anyone install a bi-xenon projector to i30 ?

I thought that bi-xeon was a double filament globe or one that has a low beam mechanical dipping function.  If I am correct, then this would not be necessary as the projection lamp is a single filament low beam only bulb.  Any bulb in the projector lamp will, I believe, project below the the low beam level as this is what the projection lense is designed to do.

Now I could be way off the mark here, but that is my understanding from what I have read.

Bob

[freakzoide]

ouri30,
you are correct!

[i30mania]

I mean for example this;
http://www.geceucusu.com/mods/xenon/43/