[highndry]

Thanks, nzenigma.

I just hope I don't break the black plastic clips when freeing up & refitting the external handle mechanism.
I may get away with not replacing the broken white plastic part - as I say, it does not seem to matter that it is no longer connected to the steel panel.

[highndry]

Job done!

Clarification for those who follow after:

The screw on the right is through an open-sided hole in the door panel, so it is only necessary to loosen it. The gubbins behind then slides to the right and disengages from the door. The little black clips on the left that I was worried about just slide off, so no risk of breakage.



This allows the entire latch assembly to come out. I propped it on top of the inner panel for ease of working.



To unclip the white plastic moulding which secures the cable it is necessary to cut two slots. A small screwdriver can then be poked in, tip angled away from the cable centre. Rotation of the handle away from the centre moves the driver tip towards the centre, compressing the barb underneath. This must be done for each side, while wiggling the moulding until it comes free.



The final step is to pull the cable inner down until the spherical nipple is visible at top left of the aperture and a plate with a small hole slides into view. Insert a small screwdriver in the hole to prevent the mechanism from springing back up, then wiggle the cable to get the nipple out of its recess. Insert the nipple of the replacement cable in the recess and allow the plate to rotate back up while maintaining some tension on the cable inner. Finally, clip the new plastic moulding into place.

[Dazzler]

  

[EppingMaurice]

I came up against the very same Problem this afternoon I got the other panel off disconnected the window Tiptoes be operated position removing the metal inner door  but cannot for the life of me get the locking mechanism removed as it still connected to the outside handle I could see a screw coming through the door from the outside but I have no way of disconnecting the handle to actually get up at  The screw to loosen it
 Can anyone help me please

[nzenigma]

I have no way of disconnecting the handle to actually get up at  The screw to loosen it
 Can anyone help me please

Mate you have to be kidding. 

 Only because you said please.... ....

 I confirm it is still the 8mm bolt behind the rubber grommet , inside edge of the door.
I also believe after unscrewing it, the outer handle still comes free ( after 4 years of reporting this fact here) 

   = last time !!

[Roblin]

I've just had the same issue on my 2011 i30 with the front passenger door. The problem was a break in the cable at the handle. A simple and cheap solution was to splice another cable into the existing one. I got a bike brake cable kit off eBay for under a fiver and used an electrical terminal block to link both cables together (see photo).
This method only requires the removal of the outer door panel and basic tools to  trim the existing and new cable.


upload

[Dazzler]

  Roblin.  Hope it lasts! but a great idea.

[1711JohnB]

Hi

Have an I30 Premium Diesel registered 2011. My door cable broke last week so contacted Hyundai who said that I had to purchase a full lock assembly at £244.00 ish. From this site, gave them the part number (Y813712R000 Cable Assy-FR DR I/S) and it cost £16.45 including VAT. Could have got it cheaper off eBay but so what, they had it by the next day. (he said that the part number did not show on his system as they only supply the full part including the lock).

Stripped down the door, took off the door handle, removed the window and took out the lock assembly fitted the new cable and re-assembled. When taking out the window, do not clean the marks where the clamps holds it into place. Use them to relocate the window in the correct place on re-assembly.

All it takes, is a bit of patience and a few simple tools.

Mine broke at the handle end so I was able to pull the cable to get to the anchor point inside the lock which if its allowed to spring back needs a couple of fine screwdrivers to first of all locate and pull it back against the spring then another to hold it in position whilst you put the ball end of the cable through the gap to anchor it.

When putting the handle back, make sure it engages with the mechanism inside or it will not work. (from experience)

Happy motoring

JohnB

 

[otherclay]

I just replaced my door cable with the help of Badger's instructions.

I made this revised guide in case anyone still faces this issue: i30 Door Cable Change Instructions

Feel free to PM me if the link doesn't work.

[Shambles]

Thank you very much, otherclay

If it's ok with you I'll upload your excellent guide to one of my servers and make it available to members.

There is hidden content here which only members can see. Please Login or Register.

[Dazzler]

  Except I don't have a server.. 

[otherclay]

If it's ok with you I'll upload your excellent guide to one of my servers and make it available to members.

That's absolutely fine. Hope it helps someone out like Badger's original guide helped me!

[Gerryp68]

Hi and great instructions. I just replaced my cable and everything went smooth. Only problem was i could not get the 3 white plastic caps back in. I could hold the pierce in place with an allen wrench but could not press the caps in. They seende bigger than the opening and just would not go in. I left them out but was wondering if will eventually cause any problems

[killieandy]

hi all new member here
firstly many many thanks for this post. as you can guess my driver door cable has just broken and came across this post when searching for a replacement cable. after reading this post and watching the videos i wanted to join and say thanks. hopefully i can be of help to others in the future. once again many thanks to all those that have contributed to this post and hopefully it will help me replace my cable. now its time to phone around and try and get a cable ordered