[ibrokeit]

So I damaged my left hand mirror OEM indicator (i.e. front facing) by clipping the edge.   Finally I ordered a replacement from smartcar_kr.

I couldn't find many guides, but the most useful was Removing/Replacing door mirror by WaJa but it didn't cover indicator replacement - but I did spot something in one of WaJa's photos which made getting the mirror off really easy.  Also there are small differences in screw positions, etc - not sure if this is difference between manual and electric folding mirrors (mine), or just a production update difference.  Likewise I also noted the last photo seems to be that of one with an indicator - but both assembly cover, and indicator recess, shapes are different from mine.

General Disclaimer: If you manage to break/damage something following this guide it is your problem, sorry.

WaJa doesn't mention the the long rectangular slot going from the edge of the mirror to near the center of the mirror frame, passing under and then ending past one of the clips.  But did mention needing a lot of pressure and feeling as if 'it will break'.   I found a use for the slot and didn't seem to need much pressure at all to release the mirror - see Note 1.

The TL;DR (Too Long; Didn't Read) version is: Use the slot to detach the mirror; Remove the mirror surround and assembly cover by undoing various screws; Replace indicator module; Reassemble; Reattach mirror.

Tools: Philips head (magnetic tip helpful - not required) screwdriver; something flat (at the end at least), narrow, long and strong - such as flat-blade 5x75mm screwdriver.

In full:

1. Remove the Mirror - Adjust the mirror angle (by pushing on the mirror - it will angle a little further than motor drive... but be careful not to push too much), locate the slot opening (it will be at the bottom, on the 'car-side'/hinge half, of the mirror), and insert/run something suitably flat, narrow, long and strong up/along it.   If using a flat-blade screwdriver (such as a 5x75mm)...  try to keep the blade of it in contact with the surface of the slot in the mirror frame - so it will go all the way to the end of the slot, in between the mirror frame and motorised position plate.  After which a small amount of leverage (if positioning the blade didn't already) should release the bottom clip(s).  Then lift/wiggle the mirror upwards a little to release the top ones.

2. Unplug Heater Wires from Mirror - Possibly you could leave them attached - but then the mirror may dangle by them and/or get in the way.   I unplugged the 'push-on' clips from the spade connectors - you might wish to note which wire to which connector.  Be cautious though, one clip was tight and I could see the connector pulling up (flex-pcb - don't want to rip it)...   I remedied this by applying pressure (finger or  thumb) to the hot-melt glue at the bottom of the connector - then releasing the clip (in fact I used the edge of a screwdriver to lever the clip off one connector).  The other clip I released with a firm grip and some pulling/wiggling.   For the technically inclined it appears the heater element, or at least the part where the blade connectors connect, is a flex-PCB that get sandwiched between the mirror and rest of the structure (white backing and frame).

3. Mirror Surround Removal - The surround needs to come off (though possible to remove the indicator now, I would not recommend it - short wires, effort, etc.. see Note 2 - but YMMV).  There are three screws that attach it (marked) to the assembly cover (one through the assembly it's self) and two clips (also marked) - see reverse photo.  Undo and remove the three screws, then gripping with finger/thumb along the length of the green arrow pull/tug that end of the surround from the assembly cover.   It shouldn't require much force and pulling that end out, relatively gently, should cause the clips to move off their lugs at the other end - but it could also require slight wiggling.

4. Assembly Cover Screws - There are, now, 4 screws holding this on (five in total - one is removed already).  One is on the outside of the cover on the hinge (marked) - so the mirror assembly needs to be folded fully (normal folded 'in' position is probably easier access) - remove the screw.  Now remove the three screws (marked red) holding the cover to the assembly - unless you wind the window down, unfold the mirror to do so (though you will probably fold it again - next step).  The photo showing the three screws to be removed also has two blue arrows - the one on the left indicates the screw for the indicator (which we can remove now or later); the one on the right indicates a plastic tab (needs to be minded if not to be broken - not sure what it is for - taking the cover off).

5. Assembly Cover Removal - When removing the cover remember the cable to the LED indicator module.   Even without taking the cover all the way off you will probably see it - you may even be able to unplug it (see next step).  The trick with removal of the cover, apart from the tab, is it also partially surrounds (forming a loose clip) parts of the assembly, hinge post, etc..  Combined with the tab means the cover doesn't just slide off... it requires a little flexing, tugging/wiggling/moving and rotating to come off without breaking the tab.  Sorry no exact instructions - but note I have the mirror folded in again in the next photos.   It shouldn't require too much effort/force as the cover will be loose, just might take a few minutes to find a position to release it.

Also indicated (above) is the clip that also holds (apart from the screw) the module to the cover, and a point that can be pushed on to help release the module.





6. Unplug LED Indicator Module - If you haven't already... unplug the wires to the indicator module - it is a two-pin keyed-header pin/plug arrangement with a moisture/dust shield that the wires pass through (black in photo above).  To remove - grip the wires (I prefer not doing so - but it is designed like this) right against the shield and gently, but firmly, pull both of them (slight side to side wiggling may help) and the plug should come out.  The photo shows the mirror assembly folded in without cover and the indicator wires and plug, inset showing the 'key' slot in the plug.

7. Remove Module from Assembly Cover - At this point the cover should be completely off and you can remove/replace the indicator module.  There a foam seal adhered to the back of the indicator, it may cause slight resistance when removing module from the cover but it is only glued to the indicator.  Remove the screw holding the indicator to the cover, if you haven't already, and push on the point next to the screw mount (indicated above) - the indicator will pivot on the end which has the plug/connector and cause the clip to release... if you push with a slight sidewise force as well then clip may be even easier to release.  Lifting the edge of the clip, while pushing, would probably also have the same effect.

You may find dirt/grime build up in the recess on the cover where the indicator sits - I don't think it will cause any trouble at all... but I cleaned it (that's how I roll).   Photo shows the back of the Indicator - with various points indicated by arrows (one misaligned).  The clip, the screw mount, connector for plug (note the 'key' above the pins), also a locating key/nodule near the 'outside edge' which goes in a slot in the cover, and the foam seal.

8. Reassembly - Is basically the reverse of dis-assembly (see Note 4 - regarding not stripping screw mounts), except for the mirror.  But I would suggest:

• You place/seat the indicator in the assembly cover.
• Then plug (remember slot and key) the indicator in and check it is actually working - two reasons: 1) In case you haven't checked before; 2) Even if you did - helps make sure you: haven't got a cable problem OR didn't forget to plug it in (which I have never ever done on anything I dis-assembled before LoL).
• Recheck the seating of the indicator in the cover and secure with it's screw.
• Before placing the assembly cover back on the assembly.

9. Reattach the Mirror - First remember to plug the heater wires back in... ideally to the same connector they were removed from (you remembered, or noted that, didn't you?) - generally, unless moved/bent a lot, the wires will likely hang in the position they attach to the mirror.   Even if you can't figure out which goes where - though I give no guarantees, etc. - it is likely polarity (wire position) won't matter anyway - see Note 3.   To reattach the mirror you need to line the clips up with the indents on the position plate - this can be a little tricky as you can't get a good viewing angle - and the firmly push the mirror back on to the plate.   I used my palm to give even pressure across the center of the mirror (flexing my fingers back and away) - possibly the back of your fingers would also work well.  Again I didn't realise I had done it at first.

And that is it - except repositioning your mirror angle (which should still work).



Note 1.
WaJa mentioned requiring 'some leverage under the lips using a screwdriver' and 'It will feel like it will break, but it will require a lot of pressure...', but didn't appear to mention the long rectangular slot going from the edge of the mirror to near the center.  Passing just under the edge of, and ending past, one of the clips that hold the mirror to the motorised mirror angle plate - appearing to leave a gap between the mirror frame and the positioning plate.   I got to wondering if that could be used for leverage? and if it was what it was meant for?  Turns out my flat-blade 5x75mm screwdriver fits just nicely, went all the way up and I required very little (but YMMV though) effort to release, at least the bottom two, clips - in fact I only realised I had released them when I went to reposition the screwdriver for another go, thinking I had slipped, and on finding the slot again realised it wasn't as confined as before - it was then a matter of lifting/wiggling the mirror up slightly to have the top two release.

Note 2 - from Step 3.
At this point I tried just unscrewing the indicator (the screw that can be seen to the left through the surround) and some levering to release the clip. It worked but the cable to the indicator had very limited length.  Not enough to comfortably (un)plug, etc. and it did require some force/pressure to get the outside edge of the indicator out from under the black part of the surround (which covers it by a few mm).   In my case that part of surround is also little damaged (same time the indicator got damaged) so that might have made it harder... but it probably made it easier.  I suspect it wasn't designed to be removed like this (design for assembly line - would have the indicator in the cover before placement) - and if the clip breaks as you're trying to take it out you then have a piece of plastic rattling around.  I put it back how it was and proceed to remove the surround and assembly cover.

Note 3.
Generally if polarity is important the plug/connector will be keyed (i.e. indicator module); or, if made of separate connectors (i.e. mirror heater), it will be marked/coloured on both part and wires or different size connectors (only one improper combination will plug together) used, etc..   This doesn't seem to be the case, that and the fact there are two wires for the mirror heater indicates it is most likely a simple heater element (one connector supplies current, the other drains it).   The reason the wires themselves have polarity marking is likely just following convention to indicate which wire is connected to common ground.

Note 4.
The screws are self-tapping - the ones for surround and cover are flat-ended - the trick to not re/cross-threading (and likely stripping) the plastic mounts is to place the screw against it, then rotate it anti-clockwise until it moves/drops in a little... the start of the thread on both screw and mount just passed each other... now rotate the screw clockwise and the screw thread should just do up following the existing mount thread.  If that doesn't work - you just have to guess.   The anti-clockwise/clockwise trick applies to the thread on the screws used here - which are conventional (right hand) threaded.

[AlanHo]

Excellent write-up.

Many thanks..........

[Dazzler]

  Hope you hang around! 

[ibrokeit]

Hope you hang around! 

Thanks Dazzler - I hope to.

Sticky topic 



Might see if there are others I can do - at some-point I need to do some slight panel-beating to both rear doors.   One has some 'good' (quite a bit) paint transfer (in places) from someone 'brushing' up in a carpark - with maybe very slight deformation.   The other scraped in a multilevel carpark - numerous short scrapes, a few down to, and slightly into, the metal (slight creasing) - not rusted, or anything, after 3.5 years like that.

[mokbel]

very helpful topic  .... 

From Where i can buy this mirror  ???? i need LH side mirror

[Shambles]

Suppose it depends which country you're in

[ibrokeit]

And also if you are just talking about a replacement mirror panel (i.e. glass and the backing mount - per the first photo)?   Or if you are talking about the whole power-folding mirror mechanism?

[datag]

is there a way to get the mirror turned/bend without electricity?
mirror is taken out of the car but i can't get all the screws off because the mirror does not bend.
do you have any ideas?

[PyroPath]

Does anyone have an idea how to remove the housing from a 2014 GD model side mirror? Someone clipped me on the road and now my turn signal glass is damages/cracked. I found this tutorial and ordered the right replacement part. However, when I removed the mirror surface (no slot, but went off easily enough) I was confronted with the fact that the internals are completely different... For the life of me I can't figure out how to open up the housing of the mirror further... Inside I see some screws which connect the housing to the mount/mechanism, but it doesn't have the same shape or looks and when removed the front (painted) part of the housing which has the indicator in it is still very much attached to the front. There are two clips at the top, but pushing them in and trying to separate front from back doesn't work. Tried some prying between the front and the back, but still nothing. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[ibrokeit]

is there a way to get the mirror turned/bend without electricity?
mirror is taken out of the car but i can't get all the screws off because the mirror does not bend.
do you have any ideas?

In theory the mirror (reverse of which is shown in step 1) should pop off the round 'gimble' plate in the centre of the photo in step 3.   You should be able to pop it off using a screw driver in the slot shown in step 1 (green and red arrows) - which will allow you to get to the screws.

[ibrokeit]

Does anyone have an idea how to remove the housing from a 2014 GD model side mirror? Someone clipped me on the road and now my turn signal glass is damages/cracked. I found this tutorial and ordered the right replacement part. However, when I removed the mirror surface (no slot, but went off easily enough) I was confronted with the fact that the internals are completely different... For the life of me I can't figure out how to open up the housing of the mirror further... Inside I see some screws which connect the housing to the mount/mechanism, but it doesn't have the same shape or looks and when removed the front (painted) part of the housing which has the indicator in it is still very much attached to the front. There are two clips at the top, but pushing them in and trying to separate front from back doesn't work. Tried some prying between the front and the back, but still nothing. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Sorry - I never owned a GD model - so can't offer too much advice about it.   The instructions I wrote for the FD (which I owned) and now I have a PD.

[Gelf]

is there a way to get the mirror turned/bend without electricity?
mirror is taken out of the car but i can't get all the screws off because the mirror does not bend.
do you have any ideas?

I had the same issue, but if you pop off the plastic rectangular-ish cover under the main hinge you can remove the three screws and then turn the mirror freely.

[Gelf]

Many thanks for this great write-up. Still useful in 2020! 

[PyroPath]

Tnx anyway. Ended up asking the dealer, which fixed it up for me last week, using my replacement part. Only charged half an hour of labour. Yes, it's more expensive than doing it myself, but it beats buying a whole new electric folding mirror.

I was told the mirror is glued shut at the front cover and has clips keeping it in place. All in all in cost me about 35 euro's. I can live with that. Eventually found a YouTube video showing it's indeed clipped and clued. As can be seen here: 2016 Veloster Turbo mirror cap removal - YouTube

[Dazzler]

Tnx anyway. Ended up asking the dealer, which fixed it up for me last week, using my replacement part. Only charged half an hour of labour. Yes, it's more expensive than doing it myself, but it beats buying a whole new electric folding mirror.

I was told the mirror is glued shut at the front cover and has clips keeping it in place. All in all in cost me about 35 euro's. I can live with that. Eventually found a YouTube video showing it's indeed clipped and clued. As can be seen here: 2016 Veloster Turbo mirror cap removal - YouTube

Thanks for the update. Yep, that's a good result all things considered. 

[davmax]

Thanks for the excellent instructions that enable changing the  mirror indicator. The part is pretty hard to find now. The following will reduce the search time. Open up the eBay.com website (not the Australian site) then search for Hyundai part 87613-2L600 for the left indicator or 87614-2L600 for the right side. Parts are still available in Korea.
Having now dismantled once and waiting for the replacement I suspect a quicker process to replace the indicator. 1. Remove the mirror. 2. Remove the single screw holding the indicator. 3.pull the indicator out of the case. 4. Disconnected the electrical connector. Reverse process to re-assemble. Hope I am right when part arrives.

Thanks for the excellent instructions that enable changing the  mirror indicator. The part is pretty hard to find now. The following will reduce the search time. Open up the eBay.com website (not the Australian site) then search for Hyundai part 87613-2L600 for the left indicator or 87614-2L600 for the right side. Parts are still available in Korea.
Having now dismantled once and waiting for the replacement I suspect a quicker process to replace the indicator. 1. Remove the mirror. 2. Remove the single screw holding the indicator. 3.pull the indicator out of the case. 4. Disconnected the electrical connector. Reverse process to re-assemble. Hope I am right when part arrives.

Link for convenience OEM Side Mirror LED Signal Lamp Repeater L+R For HYUNDAI 2008-12 Elantra Touring | eBay

[davmax]

Thanks for link that is good for purchasing both left and right indicators. Searching for the single part number required will enable a single item purchase. Several currently on offer.

Thanks Ibrokelt, my mirror had stopped folding, the nylon cog broke and I was able to buy one on ebay and replace it using your guide and a video on YouTube Hyundai i30 2007 fix repair not working folding mirror. - YouTube and How to Fix / Repair folding side mirrors gear, Not cut wires, Hyundai Veloster T - YouTube

[SankarAu]

Hi,
For those who've clipped the wing mirror assembly and caused the central mechanism with the ball joint to break off and the mirror to fall out, I fixed mine without needing to replace the whole thing. It happened to mine a few years back so a bit hazy with the details. But I just drilled a hole through the centre-piece ball joint and inserted a screw with a castle nut to hold it back together. It's probably stronger than the original now. Just a suggestion for future reference to those who are a bit handy and want to give it a go and save a few quid.
Cheers

[henridr]

Thank's for all this instructions, if you have to replace your indicator on your europeen FD I30 (Made in Czech Republic) , instead of original Hyundai indicator really expensive more than 100€, you can buy a cheap indicatour on eBay or AliExpress for around 10€, but you will have to modify the cover with a drill and files to get a result like in the photo, it is perfect at the end