[ibrokeit]

The intention of this 'How-To' is to cover/bring together the common aspects of removing, replacing or swapping the FD body OEM headunit for another or an after market unit.   Sections of this information is either buried as sub-posts to related topics (I hope the authors won't mind me 'stealing' instructions) or found by googling.   It won't really cover handling specific aftermarket units and/or 'extra' functions of OEM regional head-units.

However the pin-out referenced is from an OEM headunit (FD-01) fitted in AU (it is what is available) - the pin-functions shown should apply in *most* instances being generic/mandatory functions... but different OEM pinouts, plus extra connectors, might apply in your region i.e. there is a chance pins could have different functions.   But more likely the pins for functions not used in your region (if any) will be 'N/C' for you, with 'extra functions' on pins shown as 'N/C' or in extra connectors (if present). An example is: In some regions there are 'Navi' headunits - with an extra connector for that plus an extra aerial socket (for either it or digital/satellite radio).

Major (known) OEM difference points are:
* Center console fascia - may, or may, not have a storage compartment on top.  This affects method of fascia removal.
* 'Manual' or 'Automatic' controls for A/C - this affects type of fascia (if replacing) and how those controls are connected.
* Center console fascia appears to come in LHD/RHD versions - recommended: check if ordering a replacement.
* Some OEM headunit models have extra connectors for extra functionality - e.g. 'Navi' units.
* Buttons may have different functions depending on region and/or OEM model.
* Known 'global' models (with regional variants) are PA-710 and PA-760; Known regional OEM models are 'Navi' and 'FD-01' units
* Mounting brackets can be OEM model specific (e.g. bracket for PA-710 can't be attached to FD-01 headunit) - if buying an OEM unit check for bracket as well
* PA-760 (CD Changer) units seem to run an OEM external amp - unknown if 'line-out' instead of 'speaker-out' is used - NOTE: they might not be easily swap-able/replaceable

Notes for Aftermarket Headunit fitting:
* You probably will need an antenna adapter - Hyundai used a 'square' connector in the FD bodies, most headunits use the traditional 'round' antenna socket.
* You might need, or want, a wiring adapter loom - see Wiring/Pinout
* You might need a generic 2DIN enclosure to secure the Aftermarket Headunit (esp. if the replacement is 1DIN)

Sections:
Intro (this post)
Fascia Removal/Refitting
OEM Headunit Removal/Swap/Re-install
Fascia & 2DIN Aftermarket units
Wiring/Pinout
Steering Controls

[ibrokeit]

elantraelite made a nice post here with written instructions (top storage compartment). Combined with the warning and slightly differing instructions, due to no storage compartment, here from NMDB32 they pretty well have it covered.   There is also videos (see below) in these posts here by Asterix and here (slightly different method again) by Johnno

To summarise their steps - though please do read their steps though:
* Only if present - remove the storage compartment by unscrewing the four screws holding it and pulling up/forward (to clear a lip and the hinges - which fit in gaps in dash). Then undo the one screw hidden by it that secures the fascia.
* If you have a blanking plate there instead do not try to lever it out (secured from underneath) and there is no screw for the fascia.
* Start pulling the fascia out (plastic spring clips mostly) - if you have a storage compartment you can start there (or use one of the following methods).
** Otherwise you will need to start at the bottom edge - which there is two ways: Remove the storage (and cigarette tray) unit under it (unscrew at back of storage and unplug); or lever using something non-sharp thin/flat (see photo for tab locations) until you can use your fingers to pull it. In both instances you probably want to be mindful of those tabs/slots at the bottom.  Both of these methods shown in the videos.

Here are some images to assist (from fascia with storage compartment):
or here
or here
or here

Videos:
i-30 cw ?? ?? ?? ?? - YouTube
Desmontando Painel do Hyundai i30.wmv - YouTube

Further images can be seen here
Another forum topic with some useful images (however a number are lost) is here - N.B. a later post has info about an adapter plate (see Fascia & 2DIN Aftermarket units)

[ibrokeit]

* Once the fascia is removed you should see four metal tabs, above and below pointing out, from the radio - which are screwed to the dash frame.
* Undo the screws and the radio should be able to be pulled/wiggled out - there is a sprung friction clip on the bottom of the radio.
* Unclip and/or unplug the multiple connectors and remove the headunit.
* If simply replacing like-for-like (bad for good); or swapping OEM models (e.g. PA-710 for FD-01) - assuming the replacement came with mounting brackets...
* It should be "simply" a job of plugging the connectors back in
* Placing the unit back into position - being careful to not trap wires (before securing is probably a good time to give a quick test)
* Securing the unit in position using the screws and tabs - try to use the existing thread (you may need to remove the fascia, undo the screws and bend the tabs if you want a completely flush fit)
* Refit fascia (don't screw - if applicable) - it is possible the face of the radio and fascia may not be completely flush... if you wish you may be able to improve/correct this by bending the mounting tabs (you will need to repeat this and last couple of steps)
* If applicable: secure the fascia with it's screw and re-fit/secure storage compartment(s) with it's screws.

Image to assist:
or here

[ibrokeit]

While the hole/slot in the dash frame is '2DIN' size - the face of the OEM (2DIN) unit pokes through various holes (for it) in the fascia, effectively making the headunit face integrated into the fascia. So the hole in the fascia isn't a 2DIN space.

There are two main ways to deal with this - both available online:
* Replacement fascia that has 2DIN gap.    Some appear to be aftermarket molds with the gap (usually without top storage area) - some of these being from headunit manufactures with appropriate mounting plates molded in; others the vendor has got an OEM fascia performed the other (next) option...
* Fit a 2DIN 'adapter' surround to OEM fascia - basically: cut away parts of your OEM fascia and the adapter covers the cut edge and may provides ledges into the dash (to take account of curved fascia surface and usually vertical faces of headunits).  See this post from Abis for some info and images.

Note/Warnings - as previously mentioned:
* There are two types of fascia regarding A/C controls - Manual or Automatic (also marketed as climate control) - you will need the right one.
* Center console fascia appears to come in LHD/RHD versions - it is recommended to check if ordering a replacement.
* And they may, or may not, have the storage compartment on top - likely replacement fascias will not.

Aftermarket headunit mounting could vary depending on the headunit - different versions of the 2DIN 'adapters', and/or replacement fascias, appear to come with varying extra pieces.   You might need a separate 2DIN generic mounting enclosure - securing that to the dash framework and the headunit to it, as done in the above mentioned post from Abis.

[ibrokeit]

All the OEM headunits for the FD body appear, at a minimum, to use ISO 10487 connectors - however the std. only applies to the *physical attributes*, pin function can be headunit manufacture defined. As there is no standard for pin function, for any of the pins in ISO 10487 connectors, the manufacturer may define them as they see fit - so when fitting an aftermarket unit, especially, the user will need to check pin-function mapping and almost certainly do some re-wiring (or get/make an adapter cable).   There seems to be a general convention for some of the 'essential pin' functions (power and speakers) - but it isn't mandatory.

Though taken from a regional headunit model this pinout is probably quite generic: or here

Note for aftermarket headunits: you probably will need an antenna adapter - mentioned earlier.   You may also want a wiring loom 'adapter' - which can cover a couple of different situations... not needing to remove/reinsert (which could be hard) pins for swapped pins in the vehicle connector (or cut and splice the wires to achieve the same) to match the headunit (where it uses ISO 10487 connectors); or not needing to cut the plugs from the vehicle wiring (if it doesn't use the connectors).   If doing this you will probably want (unless your lucky enough to find a suitable pre-wired one) an adapter loom that connects to the vehicle plugs on one end - so you can connect the wires from it to the wires from whatever wiring loom the headunit is supplied with.  Just be aware some adapter looms don't come with all connectors present.

A common 'gotcha' is the swapping of the '+12V Ignition' (on/off) and 'Batt (+)' (memory/power) pin functions.  If not checked, and swapped if required, it can cause issues like the headunit not having any memory - a number of people installing aftermarket units have hit this.  Also aftermarket units might not make use of some pins/functions (or might have different connectors for them e.g. AUX IN might be RCA sockets or a TRRS connector) used by the OEM units ('Speed' for example) requiring them to be rewired or disconnected, and may offer functions not supported by vehicle wiring (e.g. reverse camera - which would require extra wiring in most FD bodies). Another point to note is 'Ill+' and 'Ill-' (Illumination) on OEM units - if the aftermarket unit only has one 'Ill' input then simply connecting 'Ill+' to it (and grounding 'Ill-') might not have the desired effect... 'Ill-' might be part of the control circuit (or it might just be to keep from having multiple earths). 

However, in regards to OEM headunits, it would seem (though not ignoring the prior warnings about there might be different pinouts and/or the PA-760 units) that Hyundai tries to keep the general pin function consistent for the OEM units for a vehicle model (if not between vehicle models). Pins used for a regional function, or an option, doesn't seem to get reused elsewhere unless it is similar purpose. Some 'extra' functions have extra (non ISO 10487 defined) connectors - e.g. 'Navi' (and similar) units.   Which is why OEM units can be largely 'drop-in' replaced in regards to basic functions - but a 'Navi' unit might not work in a non-Navi vehicle.

Which brings us to vehicles with a PA-760 - it appears these units run an external amp, and it has been reported they can't be swapped for other OEM units (e.g. PA-710 or FD-01).   If use of the amp is mandatory with a PA-760 - then it is likely the PA-760 uses 'line-level' (high impedance) outputs to the amp (probably on the same pins as the speaker outputs) unless it uses something like digital audio encoding to the amp (which it might being OEM unit to OEM amp).   What it boils down to is either: a) needing a headunit that will supply the needed audio output (likely 'line-level') to drive the amp and taking into account the connectors; b) removing/bypassing the amp (leaving some very long wiring runs between headunit and speaker); or c) replacing the amp.

[ibrokeit]

Some aftermarket headunits support inbuilt steering controls - usually requiring the user to 'teach'/calibrate/program it for the buttons and what function to do.

How they work is relatively simple - there are two wires... the buttons on the steering wheel connect different amounts of resistance between them when pressed.   By determining the resistance connected (usually by voltage drop and a constant current) - the headunit knows which button is pressed.   The values of the resistances are unknown at this time.

[AlanHo]

Thank you for an excellent and detailed post. Many will find this of great interest........

[Dazzler]

  and

Topic Sticky applied! 

[Asterix]

 

    

[bpholland2510]

Here's my dash now....

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[Suresh]

Here's my dash now....

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Can I ask you where you got the Fascia (with the top cubby gap)? I am trying to put a 2DIN unit/tablet in my car dash replacing the OEM radio (2011 Hyundai Elantra Touring GLS), but the 2-DIN Fascia that I am seeing do not have the cubby hole.

[raypinkerton]

Hi

Fascia with cubby, looks real nice quality but very expensive.
Ç×£¬·ÃÎÊÊÜÏÞÁË

This seller has a "make an offer" if you'd like to barter.
2 Din Head Unit Car Frame Dash Kit / Car Fascias for Hyundai I30 2007-2013 | eBay

Fascia without, found comments about poor fit and poor colour match.
2 Din Dash Mount Trim Kit Frame Fascia Stereo For HYUNDAI i30 FD 2008-2011 | eBay

Anybody got links for any others for FD auto air versions?

Ray

[The Gonz]

Nice. I especially like seeing the pin-out diagram without having to pull mine out. I wonder: without changing my unit, would I be able to use any of the outputs to connect to a headphone jack?

[stoney]

any idea why my speedo wont work i have fitted an aftermarket radio if i plug original back in speedo works ??? cheers

[an1mald]

Here's my dash now....

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Hi, I'm new here, joined specifically because I NEED this fascia, how do I obtain one?

RHD fascias are so hard to come by for my i30. 

[Fury]

I'm about to do this to my FD SR. I have purchased a Kenwood DMX 8019 DABS and matching rear camera.
Although I am going to use PNP wiring, I am sure this post will be very helpful.
Thank you!

[zomgttly]

I bought the exact same stereo and aerpro facia kit. How are you going with it?

[quankino]

I bought the exact same stereo and aerpro facia kit. How are you going with it?

You're given the template to trim down your current facia. From there just lego everything together as you bought PnP harnesses

[Fury]

I have started fitting the accessory parts and wiring, ( rear camera, with head unit camera control) but haven't done the head unit yet. I don't expect any difficulties, but will keep you updated.

I need to remove the A-pillar cover for the DABS antenna,  not sure about the airbag though,  I'll get the radio code and disconnect the battery overnight I think just to be safe.

The head unit has 2 USB imputs so I need to revise the console USB and probably the other one under the console tray near the cig / 12 power outputs, before I do the head unit. I want to keep the car drivable for as long as possible before fitting the head unit, so accessory bits ready to plug in come first.

[Fury]

Ok, so the head unit looks fantastic in the dash, the unit powers up... ( screen looks very pretty) the functionality seems to work fine, but there is no audio.

Not great for a unit that is supposed to produce sound!

I used a PNP Arepro PnP loom, which was confirmed to b correct... but I am now thinking that my factory unit had a factory amp!

Does anyone know where this would be located? Without pulling the car apart, and just guessing, a starting point would be good.  Another thread alerted me to this possibility, but pictures were photo bucket and no longer valid and it's an old post.

Any thoughts are really appreciated. The car is an FD SR, non bt original factory radio. Thanks ( didnt really want to start a new thread  for a basic question) 

[Fury]

So I pulled it apart and found the factory amp on the RHS  trunk lining, near the tail light.

I'm currently metering out the loom, as I can't find pinouts for the connectors, I've isolated the speaker wires, but not sure of the amp power system just yet, seems like too many wires at the amp...

I'm still not sure if I will just bypass the whole thing and just bridge the speaker connections, or to isolate the amp power and use the factory amp setup...

Using the car every day and pulling it apart each day ( then reassembling it to a roadworthy condition), after the Mrs comes back from work is getting tiresome though...

[Dazzler]

Using the car every day and pulling it apart each day ( then reassembling it to a roadworthy condition), after the Mrs comes back from work is getting tiresome though...

That would be a right pain in the a$$! 

[Fury]

So, disassembled - again, the loom is all metered out, the speaker wires, continuity tested back to the amp, then from the amp back to the original head unit.

I think I have found the amp trigger - I guess ill find out ... tomorrow... ahh reassembly again ... and disassembly again tomorrow. 

Because of all the peripheral stuff, 2x USB's, Hdmi, Cameras, GPS with external antennae, External microphone, Remote steering, Digital radio, then the amp stuff and extra link wiring, its not a 15-minute swap...  and if it's not right, it all comes apart again...

[Dazzler]

You must be quicker by now LOL

[Fury]

Yeah, Baby... It lives!

Kenwood DMX 8019DABS, installed, rear camera, maybe front camera soon, HDMI, screen mirroring, front and rear dash cams.

The Capacitive screen is awesome and looks really neat integrated into the dash... really happy.      Modern factory look, better than photos... Its also a much better screen in the sun, than my previous cheaper screen, that just lost all definition and just reflected sunlight.

Took more effort than expected, as the fitment instructions needed tweaking and the size of the unit, left little space for the loom and all the extra peripheral wiring. Plan B on camera install as the head unit recommended power supply, was too low to power the camera.  (it has several camera options, but so far I have only used the auto-reverse camera)
The factory amp works with the new head unit, I was going to bypass it, but I thought that unless I upgraded the speakers, the power of the amp would probably be fairly well matched to the original setup. It's pretty good for what I need.

Thanks to Dazz - the sticky FD audio wiring diagrams, ... and my multimeter! would have been impossible without them...

[Dazzler]

  Great to hear. You put a lot of effort in and your patience has been rewarded. 

[LesterPK]

I have a 2009 FD in Australia, I'm thinking of swapping out the radio for one from a wrecked 2011 model that has factory bluetooth.  Seems to me it would be a simple straight swap, anyone know for sure?
Thanks.

[The Gonz]

IIRC, the swap is simple enough but you'll lose outside temperature display in the trade. I just use a A$2 eBay bluetooth dongle plugged into the auxiliary port in the centre armrest. The USB port next to it powers it so it never needs recharging.

[LesterPK]

Cheers for the reply, I've got a kmart dongle thats doing the job, charge port is on the back though so hard to mount anywhere semi permanent.  Might trawl ebay for one with a side charge port and double side tape it somewhere more suitable.

[The Gonz]

Mine works and fits well:
Rovtop Mini 3.5MM Jack AUX Audio MP3 Music Bluetooth Receiver Car Kit Wireless Handsfree Speaker Headphone Adapter for iphone Z4|Bluetooth Car Kit| | -