[emgeebee]

Hi there,

I have seen a few posts on this forum on similar topics, but I have some fairly specific questions to ask. I hope that's okay!

Background

• I own a 2013 i30, Diesel, which has a hifi like this: http://goo.gl/sPKEPP
• I bought an Android head unit to replace it, this model: 6.95" Android 4.4.4 KitKat Quad-Core Digital Multi-touch Screen Double Din Car DVD Player
• I then bought this wiring harness: HYUNDAI, KIA ISO Car Radio Adaptor Cable for Power and Speakers with AUX and USB | Xtrons
• The head unit has these inputs and outputs: http://www.dropbox.com/s/n5s2rd5asfp00ni/IMG_20150926_112818.jpg?dl=0
• I'm working from this diagram as the description of the i30's inputs: https://www.dropbox.com/s/gn5vgnminzoakzw/Hyundai%20Accent%20RB

Problem

All of that works okay, apart from three things: Microphone; Illumination controls; and Steering remote controls. The harness doesn't appear to have any easy way of adding extra pins to it.

I have now ordered one of these harnesses, which appear to include a wire for every single pin: http://goo.gl/Vbntof and I plan on chopping it up. The microphone connection should be quite straightforward and I'll add on the usb port and aux input as per the original harness, however after that I'm stuck. Can anyone help me understand the following:

• The i30 has illumination + and - controls, but the headunit only has a single input (ISO15/A3) - what should I wire for this?
• The i30 has 2 pins for steering remote control (B4, B17), but I don't see any sensible input
• What is CAN/CANBUS? The i30 has high/Low (B1/B13), and the headunit has 4 different pins(A1, A2/ISO13, A8, A9/ISO3), I have read this is something to do with info about the movement of the vehicle etc, but does it need to be wired?
• What is TMU on the i30's pins (B2, B14)

Any help would be much appreciated!

[emgeebee]

I think I can answer one of my own questions: the illumination pin on the unit appears to be binary, and is wired to my headlights by default using the harness. Headlights on = illumination on.

[ibrokeit]

I think I can answer one of my own questions: the illumination pin on the unit appears to be binary, and is wired to my headlights by default using the harness. Headlights on = illumination on.

Looking at the aftermarket pinout - yup that makes sense.  Where as the OEM units varies Illumination per illumination control for rest of dash (hence Ill+ and Ill -).

[ibrokeit]

In regards to 3 & 4 - I don't know.  However I am going to guess neither *must* be wired as the GD-01/GD-02 headunits (AU specific - non-navigation) don't have them...   that is not to say no OEM i30 headunits have them (some or possibly most may do), just the the ones fitted as OEM std. here (Australia) don't.

See GD & GD-01 Headunit Pinout for GD-01 - I did the pinout pdfs (people were asking about them) before I was able to get a clear image of the pinout, I am sure you will notice for the 'Generic' pinout is exactly the same as the Accent on you linked to.  Also here is the GD-02 GD-02 Pinout   The main difference being the five, or so, extra connections for the reverse camera display feature of the GD-02 unit.

On one of the pdfs I put some notes - I think I found that TMU might be for 'TeleMatics Unit'... which could be for external GPS and/or Vehicle Tracking (such as OnStar - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia ) - which, of course, includes GPS.  And uses the car's audio system to allow communication between user and OnStar centre, etc..

[ibrokeit]

Jumping to your question #2 - does your headunit mention the abilty to use steering wheel/remote controls?

If so I would think 'SW KEY 1' or 'SW KEY 2' are the pins you need - some others on the net seem to have determined this is what these, or similar named, pins are for.

Looking at the Accent and the GD-01/GD-02 pinouts with the aftermarket...
1) All seem to indicate one wire of the steering wheel controls is GND (Pin B17 or 35 - depending on which pin numbering used) - labelled 'Remocon ground'/'Remote GND'/'STEER KEY_GND' - I would assume you would need to connect that to Pin1 (GND & SW KEY GND) on your headunit.
2) And then connect 'Steering Remoconn'/'ST - Remo'/'ST - Remote' (Pin B4 or 22) to one of the two mentioned above... I would try 'SW KEY 1' first.
3) I assume the aftermarket has two 'SW KEY' inputs to account for vehicles which may have '+'/'-' pins instead for remote (presumably they don't reference their controls to GND) - much like the i30 doesn't seem to for Illumination for OEM (so it can be varied per dash lighting)
4) It is therefore unlikely, but possiable, that you might need to connect the i30 steering connection across SW KEY 1 & 2 instead (i.e. B17 not connected to ground but rather to 1 or 2 instead) HOWEVER I would assume, if that was the case then the OEM SW control pins would have been labelled with '+' and '-' instead.

So I would suggest:
* Wire for B17 on OEM unit to Pin 1 on aftermarket
* Wire for B4 to Pin 4
* Then do what you need to do to make the aftermarket learn the controls (probably in settings somewhere, probably case of press remote button, press onscreen representation of function of button - or, at least, what you want the head-unit to do for that button).

[emgeebee]

Thanks for the replies ibrokeit.

Makes absolute sense. I think I'm going to cut the illumination switch altogether (the lighting is pretty aggressive) and give your suggestions for the steering remote a go. Hopefully the cable will arrive this week so I'll report back on how it goes probably at the weekend.

If I get the mic and steeringwheel remote hooked up it'll tick all of my boxes!

Thanks again for your help.

[ibrokeit]

Thanks for the replies ibrokeit.

Makes absolute sense. I think I'm going to cut the illumination switch altogether (the lighting is pretty aggressive) and give your suggestions for the steering remote a go. Hopefully the cable will arrive this week so I'll report back on how it goes probably at the weekend.

If I get the mic and steeringwheel remote hooked up it'll tick all of my boxes!

Thanks again for your help.

Not a problem!  Will be interesting to find out what happens - though I am confident it will work... it is hard to be certain when there isn't info either for installation and/or describing the functions of pins (esp. feature/option/non-essential ones which may vary in operation between vehicles...  I mean power, speaker outputs are pretty obvious, and essential for a head-unit and work the same way).   So I would be interested to hear back.   You could possibly even write up a quick how-to if you wanted to at some point.


Ahh yes - IIRC the OEM head-unit you pictured relies on an external microphone.  While the GD here (at least those fitted with GD-01/GD-02 - mic inbuilt) don't have them.  That shouldn't be too hard, assuming you have the plug for 'C' connector and you know the polarity (MIC+/MIC-) of the i30 mic wires (if not see below)... as your aftermarket head-unit doesn't have a 'MIC-' pin (per OEM) I would assume/suggest you would connect the wire for it to 'GND'.  I would suggestion pin C9 being it is below the 'MIC+' pin C4 - often with head-units pins are paired.   Actually I just looked at one of the links - if you have the loom for C then I would assume the 3.5mm socket is for the mic (being an accessory MIC001 has a 3.5mm mono-plug).  Should just be a matter of determining which wire (or connector in socket) is what and/or deciding weather to wire a mono-plug to the car's mic wires or chop the socket off and connect them directly (I personally would go for the latter, but that is me).

Summary: MIC+ to C4; Suggest MIC- to C9 (GND).

The car's microphone is almost certainly electret microphone which are almost always have polarity due to having a small pre-amp (usually a n-ch FET) inbuilt¹.   If you don't know the wire polarity you should be able to determine it by using a multi-meter - maybe set in the 1K Ohm range (or polarity/diode check might also work) and checking the readings by connecting the probes to the wires then swapping them.  The lower value reading *should* indicate the Red probe (assuming probes are plugged into meter per convention) is on MIC+, which would be the drain of the inbuilt FET.   MIC- would be the source of the FET which can be connected to GND.  See: Electret microphone - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

¹ If the pre-amp isn't inbuilt then there would be no polarity (so no MIC+/-) to worry about, being an electret microphone by itself (without the pre-amp) doesn't require polarization.   But as most do have the pre-amp that type is usually what is meant when talking about them and most people forget the pre-amp is there.

[ibrokeit]

Regarding the Illumination - do you mean the lighting change is pretty aggressive (becomes too dim)? or that you will force the head-unit to use 'night' mode all the time?

I saw some specs for another head-unit from same maker - it implies, as you have surmised, Ill input is 'binary'.   I suspect it would be too hard to design something that could interface to various vehicle variable illumination systems (some would have low side direct grounded, others through BCM - some would switch the voltage high-side, others low-side, etc.).


If someone did have an aftermarket unit that could vary illumination on input - then for an i30 I would suggest using an making an interface circuit with an opto-coupler to electrically isolate the BCM from the aftermarket inputs.  Ideally the opto-coupler internal LED would have no effect on the i30 illumination circuit.

[ibrokeit]

Anyway further to your question #3...   I don't think you can interface the i30 CAN HIGH/LOW pins/wires (if present) directly to the aftermarket unit...

I found it odd that aftermarket head-unit didn't have CAN HIGH/LOW - being that CAN, AFAIK, is a differential signaling system... HI/LOW vary together while data is on the bus and the delta between them indicates if it is a '0' or '1'.  Giving physical fault detection and redundancy (if one is out messages can still go through - but the system knows a fault condition exists and may take safety action if appropriate) - there maybe certain non-fault modes where non-differential signaling is used but in general it is fault detection.   It, of course, could be a labeling/translation issue - but I doubt it... TX and RX aren't synonymous with HIGH/LOW.

While puzzling about the absence of HIGH/LOW I noticed some similar units have optional 'CANBus steering wheel control interfaces' (I assume some makes/models of vehicle use CAN to signal the button press to the head-unit; where as Hyundai for i30 seem to use the analogue method of button detection by resistor value - causing a voltage change; both systems require a minimum of two wires).   Looking into some IC data sheets - you can get CANbus interface ICs which go between the actual CANbus and a device wishing to talk on it but isn't designed to physically drive it i.e the ICs just change signal levels and convert between serial and differential signaling - it is still up to the device to be a 'CAN controller' (talk the protocol).   As such they usually have CAN HIGH/LOW and also have (serial) TX/RX pins... as the TX/RX pins go to the device that is being the 'CAN controller' it is conceivable someone might label them 'CANBUS TX'/'CANBUS RX' or some variation there of.

And I think this is the case - I suspect the pins labelled CANBUS RXD/RX and TXD/TX are the same (on different connectors like a number of the other pins) and that they are so the headunit can have an optional CANbus interface connected so that it can read the CANbus.  I think the 'CAN TX IN' and 'CAN RX IN' are probably so an additional module which uses CAN can connect via the headunit's interface module rather than requiring a separate one - hence the 'IN' on both even though serially TX is considered 'out' and RX 'in'.

[ibrokeit]

I also noticed one of the other accessories shown on the site is 'OBD02' - which is a "ELM327 Bluetooth OBD2" scanner.

Which makes me wonder even if you did have the interface for CAN a) it would provide the same data as the OBD2 protocol; and b) if the headunit would actually use/display the data, if it was on the bus, in any case.   As they market a separate accessory for that.

BTW if you do wish to go the OBD2 scanner route - check where the socket is first I don't remember which but on one model it doesn't have much space in front of it and with a scanner fitted pokes into the driver's area.   You can get extension cables with 90^o plugs.

[ibrokeit]

I have now ordered one of these harnesses, which appear to include a wire for every single pin: http://goo.gl/Vbntof and I plan on chopping it up. The microphone connection

Forgot to ask - where did you order that from? and/or what did they call it?

[emgeebee]

The car's microphone is almost certainly electret microphone which are almost always have polarity due to having a small pre-amp

Awesome tip!! Thanks!

Regarding the Illumination - do you mean the lighting change is pretty aggressive (becomes too dim)? or that you will force the head-unit to use 'night' mode all the time?

When the illumination is on the lights are pretty bright (the dvd slot locator in particular). I like to keep interior lighting low at night and with no way to turn the brightness down I'd rather just have it turned perma-off.

BTW if you do wish to go the OBD2 scanner route - check where the socket is first I don't remember which but on one model it doesn't have much space in front of it and with a scanner fitted pokes into the driver's area.   You can get extension cables with 90o plugs.

Yes, I got a cheap one of these from Amazon (with the 90o adapter) a few months back and that's working, so I wont try fighting the CAN battle. The 90o adapter still doesn't allow the fuse box cover to fit back on, but it's fine.

Forgot to ask - where did you order that from? and/or what did they call it?

The cheapest one I saw was on ebay. Once I found it was a harness made for parrot's gear, I just searched for "hyundai i30 parrot harness" and grabbed the cheapest.

You could possibly even write up a quick how-to if you wanted to at some point.

Yes - at the very least I aim to post a good few photographs of the updated harness and some annotations about the wires added.

[ibrokeit]

The car's microphone is almost certainly electret microphone which are almost always have polarity due to having a small pre-amp

Awesome tip!! Thanks!

Not a problem!

Thanks for the info on the OBD2 scanner and 90^o (BTW 90[sup]o[/sup] to fake the symbol) adapter.   And also about the cable - though I don't have a GD getting one with all connections would be useful for mucking around with the spare GD head-unit I have (Mum has a GD).

I am sure photos and notes would be appreciated by any future GD audio modders installing similar devices.

[Dazzler]

Yes, I got a cheap one of these from Amazon (with the 90o adapter) a few months back and that's working, so I wont try fighting the CAN battle. The 90o adapter still doesn't allow the fuse box cover to fit back on, but it's fine.

If you source a spare fuse box cove from a wreckers or somewhere they pretty easy to modify so they will fit around the adapter/dongle.

[ibrokeit]

Regarding the Illumination - do you mean the lighting change is pretty aggressive (becomes too dim)? or that you will force the head-unit to use 'night' mode all the time?

When the illumination is on the lights are pretty bright (the dvd slot locator in particular). I like to keep interior lighting low at night and with no way to turn the brightness down I'd rather just have it turned perma-off.

Interesting... hmm... now I am going to ask some 'stupid questions' based on

I think I can answer one of my own questions: the illumination pin on the unit appears to be binary, and is wired to my headlights by default using the harness. Headlights on = illumination on.

I just assumed you meant illumination mode (e.g. night mode) was on i.e. headunit lighting dimmed.  However re-reading your previous posts, and comments, I suspect I misunderstood.   So just to be sure...

When the headlights are NOT on there is NO illumination (hence the 'cut the illumination switch' comment), correct?  And when they are on - then the illumination is quite bright?

If so then the Illumination wire might be a 'direct' feed to the lighting of the unit (I am assuming the touchscreen backlight is separate) rather than a 'binary' input - i.e. it is bright because you are feeding it with 12V.  If it is direct feed then I would expect the circuit to be brighter the higher the voltage (and to be able to handle nominal max battery voltage in a 12V system).


If this is the case then you could make it dimmer by feeding a lower voltage through to it - the trick would be a) determining this; b) setting up a control of some kind.

Determining could probably be done by putting a resistor in series on the Illumination wire.  Ideally you would measure the load (LED) current at a fixed voltage (such as 12V) and select your resistor to handle that.   For example, assuming the load current was 20mA at 12V (apparent resistance 600 Ohm via R = V/I), to feed Illumination 8V you would select a 300 Ohm 1/2W (9V - 200 Ohm 1W).   See http://www.raltron.com/cust/tools/voltage_divider.asp where R2 would be the load (Illumination circuit) and V_out would be the voltage appearing across it.   Assuming it dims you would probably want to measure what the actual V_out voltage was for further use.

As to control...

In the GD Owner's manuals I have seen the illumination control are +/- button/rocker - indicating digital control.   So I am assuming the BCM controls the brightness by switch-mode/duty-cycle¹ - which is the logical was to do such for lighting.
* In which case the opto-coupler idea (such as a 6N139 - up to 18V output) probably wouldn't be so stupid² but more complicated than...

The simpler method would be to fit a rheostat specifically for the headunit (i.e. between headlight power and it)
* Potentially, if you had a space (blank plate) and could get an OEM rheostat to fit it, it could look OEM - however in the GD I suspect the only rheostat type device is the manual headlight leveling and I am not sure if it is a rheostat with fixed positions or a multi-position circular switch instead.   Nor, if a rheostat, it could control the voltage as desired.
* Alternatively, if you had a blank plate, you could mount one to it.  But if you didn't want to do that - you could hide it somewhere.


¹ If LEDs are only supplied with power 50% of the time they will be roughly half as bright as being supplied 100% of the time, even though supply voltage doesn't change.

² You would need to (assuming a 6N139 opto-coupler):
a) Supply the LED in opto-coupler from Ill+/- (which wouldn't be an issue for the i30 being no head-unit connected doesn't cause problems) - would just need to workout a current limiting resistor value for the LED... roughly (assuming a nominal 12V) a value between 1K2 to 3K3 (10mA to ~3mA) should be fine (but I would go with the lower current option - just in case the OEM headunit did what we are doing... use the input as signal to switch a driver circuit rather than power LEDs directly).  And...
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[emgeebee]

Ok, my post arrived, so here's some updates. Here's the new loom:

http://www.dropbox.com/s/4fneu1o0ksuzj6h/IMG_20151009_070237_hdr.jpg


First of all I labelled up all the wires and cut off the excess:

http://www.dropbox.com/s/ixowa2opo4f4kfc/IMG_20151009_075149.jpg?dl=0


Then I chopped up and added on the other cables (mono 3.5mm for mic, a usb cable, phono cables for aux in):

http://www.dropbox.com/s/90aliumnliomrm1/IMG_20151009_095600.jpg?dl=0


I wired up the SW keys as described above (SW1 and SW Ground) on the loom from the aftermarket too (no pic).

I then plonked it all in the car and..... nothing really changed!

The settings page which allows steering-wheel button mappings doesn't register any input while I press every button possible on the steering wheel. I downloaded a voice recording app to test the microphone. Without the external one plugged in there is a lot of squealing (not feedback, more like unearthed!), and when I plug the external one in this continues, though you can hear my voice in the background with it. It seems like it's using both mics, but as far as I can see on Google there are no apps to control microphone inputs.

So, no success so far on anything apart from the illumination - I chopped that wire so that the lights don't come on. Thanks for the diagram and advice above, but I'm happy with no illumination. (p.s. you are correct - the screen backlighting is independently from the other lights - volume control and dvd slot guide).

[ibrokeit]

I wired up the SW keys as described above (SW1 and SW Ground) on the loom from the aftermarket too (no pic).

I then plonked it all in the car and..... nothing really changed!

Cool images of the looms - nice on labeling everything.

Gah!  Not so nice on nothing changing! 

I suppose with the steering controls - you have two more options you could try: SW2 & SW GND; and per previous messages SW1 & SW 2.    To the best of my knowledge the i30 FD and GD use the simple voltage level system to detect which button is pressed (done by having a different value resistor connected across the wires per button pressed) with no polarity (as it isn't needed).   Of course there is always the possibility of bad connection - but I suspect not in your loom itself as you would have checked continuity.

So, no success so far on anything apart from the illumination - I chopped that wire so that the lights don't come on. Thanks for the diagram and advice above, but I'm happy with no illumination. (p.s. you are correct - the screen backlighting is independently from the other lights - volume control and dvd slot guide).

At least you got one of your issues sorted to where you are happy.

Not a problem, the basic idea for it (how to interface i30 illumination control to aftermarket headunits) came to me a while ago... but I hadn't really worried about sitting down and doing the math/design - as my headunits, so far, have been OEM units and no body had mentioned a) having very bright illumination (per your case - likely LED are being run near full power at 12v); or b) an aftermarket head-unit where variable illumination was listed as a feature.   Decided to write it up in case you wanted to try to use it (read test it  ) and so it is available to others.

Without the external one plugged in there is a lot of squealing...

Regarding the squealing if it happens even when only the internal mic is connected, and isn't feedback (which if you needed to, and haven't already, you could conclusively prove by simply disconnecting the speaker ISO10487 connector - brown - and making a recording)... then I would be tempted to be contacting the vendor for a remedy/warranty replacement of the headunit.   Esp. as it continues even with an external mic plugged in.


Irrespective of it sounding like a warranty issue...

I find it slightly strange that the internal mic wouldn't be disabled for the external mic (when plugged in - though looking at the pinout such detection would probably have to be done electronically).   I am assuming, without external, you can hear your voice on the internal mic.   The question here is does the internal mic actually get disabled on external mic - if yes then it indicates the issue is something to do with the mic input circuit (almost certainly analogue side) rather than the internal mic itself; if no then it could be the internal mic itself.  The trouble is, being the external mic is mounted in the car, trying to establish this... maybe, with external mic plugged in you could put/press a pillow, or maybe a thick quilt, (to cut both direct and vibration transmitted sound reception) over the external mic and see if your voice is recorded - if not, or at reduced volume/muffled, then the internal mic is probably being disabled.

And then, if it was outside of warranty, how to fix it? If int. mic is the issue is it easy to disconnect.  If circuit - can issue be found and fixed (probably - likely to be a bad solder joint, or possibly a bad component).

[emgeebee]

I have sent a post to the manufacturer's forum regarding the noise issue (awaiting approval) and will see what they say. I also asked about the steering wheel remote, but don't expect much of a reply.

I'll keep you updated and thanks again for the ongoing help!

[ibrokeit]

I have sent a post to the manufacturer's forum regarding the noise issue (awaiting approval) and will see what they say. I also asked about the steering wheel remote, but don't expect much of a reply.

I'll keep you updated and thanks again for the ongoing help!

Hehe - I know what you mean, regards response/reply.

Cool.  Not a problem!

[emgeebee]

Well, no meaningful response yet, though I have been on holiday and not fully responsive. I'm still holding out hope...

This weekend I did manage to do a little more investigation. I thought it'd be a good idea to be a bit more scientific with the test scenarios to try and pinpoint a root cause, but unfortunately nothing helped. Here's what I tried:

• Shielded the mic on the unit while talking close to the external mic - this indeed does still pick up sound, so at least I know my wiring for the external mic is good
• Removed all other extension harnesses from the unit - I wanted to remove the possibility of any other inputs (phono aux in, usb camera) adding interference - no change
• Checked the harness again for continuity, everything seems good

So, the unit completely on it's own with no other input apart from the ISO for power still makes the nasty noise. I have also now recorded the noise in case it helps diagnosis for them, here's a link (please make sure your volume is low before playing - it's a horrid sound!): http://www.dropbox.com/s/t6x76qj6fi13lgn/recording-20151025-141715.mp3?dl=0

Finally, despite this issue, it is genuinely cool to have an android head unit! I was driving last night, with all my music playing (with album art) on playerpro, waze telling me about upcoming issues, the dvr app recording my trip and torque logging my stats.

In case anyone else is following this, here's a few of the apps I'm currently using:

• To customise screen brightness - http://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.haxor&hl=en
• To easily switch between apps - http://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.boatmob.sidebarlauncher&hl=en_GB
• Nice desktop & icons - http://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.teslacoilsw.launcher&referrer=utm_source%3Dnovalauncher.com%26utm_medium%3Dbutton%26utm_campaign%3Dnovalauncher.com & http://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.benx9.palmtree&hl=en_GB
• DVR - http://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.dailyroads.v
• Music player - http://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.tbig.playerpro&hl=en_GB
• OBD2 stats - http://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en_GB
• Voice recorder - http://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.hiqrecorder.full&hl=en

Plus obviously google maps and google now are quite convenient in the car...

Just to fix the mic!

[The Gonz]

Your power is still an input. If powered by an isolated source such as a plugpack or external car battery, does it still make the noise?

[emgeebee]

Fair point!! I don't have anything suitable to hand. I might have to wait a week or two before I find something for that test...

[emgeebee]

The manufacturers have confirmed that there's an issue and it's going back to them for repair/replacement.... I'll provide more updates when it's all sorted

[ibrokeit]

 

Downside is it leaves you without a head-unit for a while.

Now if only the illumination part worked properly it would be almost perfectly integrated.

[emgeebee]

Hi,

Just to let you know everything worked ok on the replacement! Torque, music, waze all together which voice searching and all that good stuff. Here's some photos of it fitted:

http://www.dropbox.com/s/130k42jcnr9tmi2/IMG_20151114_110504.jpg?dl=0
http://www.dropbox.com/s/303clwruos1d7oz/IMG_20151114_110547.jpg?dl=0
http://www.dropbox.com/s/kyw2rw36inch3eg/IMG_20151114_110947.jpg?dl=0

I kept the illumination cable cut so that the lights don't shine too bright at night, and future projects might include trying to get the steering wheel controls working and fitting a reversing camera, but that's a battle for another year.

As mentioned above the sidebar app makes it pretty easy to switch apps while driving though there well might be something better out there.

Thanks for all your help!

Mat

[Dazzler]

 

[ibrokeit]

 

The unit looks good - and with it working properly that is better!

Slight pity on steering wheel controls - silly question... did you try on the new unit?   It could have been some how related to the mic issue (e.g. both use ADC for example).

Yeah - reversing camera would be a nice feature to add.

The plastic fascia surround looks a little odd to me - like the bottom part is behind the A/C fascia plate.

Anyway good job you have it wired in and working with the features you wanted.