[ccjj]

Hi all, what would be the difference in purchasing a new car that is Make Year 2015 but plates 2016 vs all 2016? Assuming all other specs are the same.

C

[beerman]

If I was paying full price I would insist on MY16.

There are usually fairly good deals on the older model though, so it is usually worthwhile unless the new model year has goodies you want or need.

The MY17 model is out there, so If I was buying a new MY15 I would want a fairly good discount.

Given you can get a brand spanker MY16 petrol auto for 20k

I see some Demo My 15 2016 models for around 18.5 in Qld 

[Dazzler]

What Beerman said, although $1500 would not be enough saving for me to go with a previous my and a demo to boot. I'd want to be saving $2500 to $3000

[ccjj]

Thank you Beerman and Dazzler. I have been shopping around and will push for a discount if going for a MY15.

Actually today I got a quote that came out at $20485 on a MY15. As I was about to walk away (I had just gone in for a quote) he offered to discount if I signed on the spot. I didn't get a figure as he was unwilling to show his hand unless I drove out then and there. But--indication that there is room to knock some $$ off.

But--really after a current MY.

Will the MY affect sell price in a few years? E.g. if I sold in 2021 would the MY15 get a lower price than the MY16?

[Dazzler]

The longer you keep it the less the MY would matter. Although after 5 years they would still use the redbook prices as a bargaining tool on your trade in price. My guess is that is you paid $1500 less for an MY15 that you might still blow $500 on your trade in price in 5 years... 

Sometimes the MY makes more different than others, depends how much different they are.. For example if the auto went from a 6 speed to a DCT ( with better economy) or if there was a major styling change. Not sure of the exact differences between the MY15 and MY16 but you could compare them by looking at the images and specs on Carsales.com.

[beerman]

How did they come at that quote given they are $19,990 drive away? (there are plenty on Carsales for $18,990 too but they might be MY15).

From my experience selling a MY10 i30 at 5 years and 140,000k, no one looks at the year, it's all about the condition.

If you look after your car and keep it in excellent condition, no one will be looking at the MY because they will be too busy telling you how good the condition is (at 5 years there will be plenty of knocked around ones out there).

Good condition/tyres/rego will trump MY every time (unless there is a major change which MY 15 to 16 there is not or at least I can't find anything).

The big change comes later this year when the new model comes out, I think price and not goodies is doing the heavy lifting until then.

Personally when I buy a car its about minamising the cost per km. Depreciation happens from the cost of the car less the sale price at disposal. The up front cost is by far the bigger number, so anything you can do to reduce that number will have a bigger effect on the cost of ownership, even if you can jag an extra $500 for MY at the end (which is doubtful, especally if you keep your car for longer and sell privately).

On that point, you can get a MY 16 Kia Cerato for $17,490

[rustynutz]

I reckon "build" date is more important, especially when it comes to trade in time... 

[beerman]

Guess it depends on if your going to trade it in, or sell it privately. If you trade it in and listen to dealer B.S then it might.

Personally I would rather sell privately and put more dollars in my pocket. That being the case, you list it by the compliance plate which will be 2016 anyway.

It all depends on the deal.