[Aussie-i30]

Hi guys my first post here as only joined the i30 club today. I have just purchased a 2016 i30 SR. I'm in Australia and I would love to install some interior LED lights in the footwell of the car but I didn't want to fork out the $250 to Hyundai. I've had a look around the web and found a product called OPT7 see the link;
  AURA? LED Interior Lighting Kit With SMART-Color Strips - OPT7

I'm wondering if anyone had installed these especially wiring them directly for power and if so is it possible to do it so that they only activate when the car is unlocked by me and the doors opened to get in/out.

Thanks in advance everyone.

[Phil №❶]

If you source the current from the courtesy light, then they will operate as you require. Put an in line fuse with your wiring as well.

Similar products are available from eBay, too.

[Aussie-i30]

Thanks Phil. Looking at the lights (which I haven't purchased yet), they have direct fuse tap adapters so would it just be a matter of using one of those to run to the internal fuse box and plugging it in to which ever fuse runs the courtesy light? Or would I need/it be best to wire it together directly to the wire running to the courtesy light?

Sorry for the long post and replies, just really have no idea about it.

Thanks again.

[The Gonz]

Wired some cool blue LED strips into footwells in wife's car (SEAT Cordoba) and wiring points were battery feed and door light switch (like fridge) so many ways to skin that.

[Phil №❶]

Don't use the courtesy light fuse as it will be active when the IGN is on, so your lights would be on all the time while driving. I would source the current form the overhead light. Yes the fuses would be ok to use, just make sure that the fuse is not too powerful or it won't protect your wiring if there is a fault This could lead to a fire 

I'm guessing here, but I think a 1 amp fuse would be plenty.

[Aussie-i30]

Thanks for the quick and informative replies Phil it's very much appreciated. Awesome so just to clarify so I don't stuff it up, if I locate the fuse in the interior fuse box which controls the overhead cabin light, and then plug the direct fuse tap adapter from the LED kit in to where that fuse sits, I should then have power to the led lights which will then only have power and operate once I unlock the vehicle and open the doors, and then go off again and have no power once the doors are close.

Thanks again.   

[The Gonz]

That will depend on how the courtesy light is activated. If the light is always powered and switched via the door switch on its ground side, powering off the fuse only means the LEDs will always be on. If you want it to behave just like the courtesy light when doors open, you'll need to tie the ground side of the LEDs to the high side (non-ground) of one of your door switches. Who's quickest with the schematic? Perhaps it's academic (I'm basing this on older cars) and there's a neat courtesy light signal out of a small black smart box in the car somewhere.

[Shambles]

The courtesy light feed (fadeon/fadeoff) should be controlled by the BCM so it'd be good to grab the schematic of that for the GD.

[Phil №❶]

Thanks for the quick and informative replies Phil it's very much appreciated. Awesome so just to clarify so I don't stuff it up, if I locate the fuse in the interior fuse box which controls the overhead cabin light, and then plug the direct fuse tap adapter from the LED kit in to where that fuse sits, I should then have power to the led lights which will then only have power and operate once I unlock the vehicle and open the doors, and then go off again and have no power once the doors are close.

Thanks again.   

Er no, that's what you should NOT do. The leds will be lit all the time the fuse is energised. I would find the + cable at the interior light and get your supply from there.

[Aussie-i30]

Ah thanks again Phil, seems I have a lot to learn in the field of things.

Is it possible for anyone to provide a diagram or step by step instructions on how this can be done.

[Phil №❶]

Sadly I don't have any electrical schematics for your car.

However, @cruiserfied may be able to show you where to capture the light feed.

He should reply when available. Good luck.

[The Gonz]

Absolute worst case, you can dismantle any of the courtesy lights that activate with the doors and use the positive point to feed your LEDs, just may require extra cable from there to your footwells.

[Phil №❶]

Yes, but need to be careful running wires down the screen pillars due to air bag deployment and or restrictions.

Since the kit comes with direct fuse tap cables then you should only have to plug the taps directly into the interior lighting fuse which will automatically have the LED's on whenever the interior lights are on.

[The Gonz]

Since the kit comes with direct fuse tap cables then you should only have to plug the taps directly into the interior lighting fuse which will automatically have the LED's on whenever the interior lights are on.

That's back to my original suggestion provided the power switching is occurring on the high side.

[cruiserfied]

Your only real option is to source the power directly from a light.
As Phil has been saying the your fuse is hot at all times, the circuit is earth switched (as with all circuits nowdays) and your switches are only a signal to the BCM and SJB if you piggy back a fuse the lights will ALWAYS be on.
Using LED's will likely not effect room light as its only a low current draw, just be sure to add an appropriate fuse to the circuit.

The genuine kit is the way to go for ease of install, yeah its pricey but it includes lights, light mounting brackets, harness and instructions to install correctly to avoid voiding warranty on certain items.

[The Gonz]

What at least three of us now have been saying is as below, left hand circuit, ignoring all the stuff to the right. The light is fed from the battery through the fusebox and switched on its earth side. You need to tap into the line between the light and the switch to get your LEDs to come on when wanted, the same way the circuit to the right is doing it.

Two obvious options are:
1. low side of lamp (where voltage goes to zero when it lights up)
2. high side of doorswitch (which is 12V when door is closed)



I chose the doorswitch because it's already next to the footwells so it didn't need extra wire, and avoided any messing with airbags.

[cruiserfied]

Gonz the switches aren't on the same circuit as the light in this circumstance. The switch serves as a signal for the BCM only. It may work but i wouldn't want to risk confusing the BCM by adding another load.
The BCM sends the voltage to the lights. Thats where i would get my power from, that way they would fade in and out too..

[Shambles]

The courtesy light feed (fadeon/fadeoff) should be controlled by the BCM so it'd be good to grab the schematic of that for the GD.

[The Gonz]

I guess it would be safer not to mess with the resistances expected by the BCM, however small the change from adding LEDs, just in case. I still see the fading working the same way because the effect would be supplied to both the courtesy lights and the LEDs. If it were me, I'd still head for the door switch and touch the spot to see the effect in action as the easiest option before committing to something that may be unnecessarily more complex.

[cruiserfied]

Shouldn't cause issues either way but the BCM isn't looking for a return signal on the light side.

[DragOn]

Hi All,
new to the forum. Joined as i recently purchased a GD 2014 i30 and wanted to fit some interior LED's as i love the look. Gleaned my information from various posts.
I have just installed some LED front scuff plates that come on when you open the door. They go through a "cycle" with blue lighting. Looks fantastic.

Also fitted foot well blue LED's i purchased from Aliexpress. Cheap and looks great. Wired them so they all (4) come on and fade the same as the dome lights. Two in the front foot wells, and 2 under the rear of front seats.
Used a fuse tap from the dome light fuse box supply for the positive, and tapped into one of the dome light wires for the negative.
After testing the dome light wires, it seems they are run through a type of variable resistor circuit and that is what allows for the fading through the negative circuit.

I work away, and wont return home for a week, but i will take some pics of the process i used, and the end results when i get the time on my return home.

[Dazzler]

Dragon

Sounds like some nice mods and great first post. Look forward to the photos when you get the chance.

[The Gonz]

 

[Aussie-i30]

Nice work, I've been flat out with work and haven't had a chance to look at doing mine. Look forward to the photos. Any chance of a step by step guide of how you did it for the lights and scuff plates?

[DragOn]

Hi Aussie, will see what i can come up with.

[Nonamesleft]

Hi guys,
 I have these exact lights from ebay and had them installed by a local audio place.
The control box has a remote to switchthem  on and off, change modes and colours etc. There also an accessory wire that runs to the door switch so when the door is opened they light white and turn off when closed.
They had to power mine constant to get that to work and I just use the remote to turn it on and off for the colored lights. Its powered off of the puddle lamp fuse.

I have this problem though, I notice it at night, when i get into the car and the lights are still turned off they flicker white randomly and continues to flicker until I start driving and the auto door lock engages.  Sometimes they flick white when I put the indicator on too.
Im guessing its to do with the door switch because I changed them to be powered from different fuses and it still did it.

Its not the control box because I replaced it already...

Any ideas of how I can stop it?

[cruiserfied]

Sounds like possible interference in the door switch circuit. Comes back to a previous comment i made about wiring into the light circuit not the switch circuit.

[Nonamesleft]

I think it was wired onto the door switch because thats what the instructions said so that way its only the white lighting that comes on when the door is opened.
Would wires need to be spliced to wire it directly into the light circuit?
I did a ton of research, put it down to something called a cold check or something along those lines, it said the car sends out short pulses to check if things are left open, on etc and that maybe what causes them to flick. There wasnt much info on the i30 electricals
The car was only built in May and its a SR Premium, so I dont really want to do anything that would void the warranty :/ but at the same time its kinda annoying me, the flickering...

Any advice/instructions on how to stop it or what might work would be greatly appreciated, especially by my sanity when driving home from work on late nights 

How did yours go OP?

[The Gonz]

If the offending behaviour is limited to very short flickers, you may be able to add a capacitor / inductor to ground / in series in order to suppress it. If it really is a cold check that's going on, I doubt relocating from the door switch will make any difference. Another approach is to use an optocoupler that would sense the door switch going to ground without loading the circuit in any way.