[tw2005]

Probably the difference between ignoring it and knowing something was not right.

I enjoy the end result, the journey sometimes is painful.

Do we interpret the above as:
 "although I am an expert in this field, I ignored the obvious because I crave to be reamed by my wife" ?
 

 

You may, but what i'm saying is early intervention is preferred and likelhy why it's still mainly intact.

Also an after thought probably not related but i noticed some grease had entered the chamber from the column side. Just wondering if that may have set off a chemical reaction with the bushing?

I doubt it was plastic friendly lube. 

[Shambles]

http://australiancar.reviews/_pdfs/Technical-Service-Bulletin-14-ST-002-1.pdf


Above link, courtesy of @ss3192

[aranciataoz]

I found this on U Tube
 
It gives you some idea of the area on the power steer, but for some reason,  he tries to work on it under the dash
(he's a Pom ).

There is a better one , but I cant find it, that was done by a Canadian bloke. Therefore, he is quite practical and intelligent.    If you don't pick the Canadian accent, you know he isn't American because he does not wear gloves, safety goggles, a cap or a dustcoat. 
In my opinion, he has the sense to unplug the motor and undo the 12mm shaft to rack bolt ; then do the bush change on a workbench.

Yep ... our MY13 GD Tourer CRDi had this bushing mashed away a month ago - well it probably had disintegrated sometime before but I noticed the knocking noise last month when turning the steering whilst the car was stationary (no noise thankfully when steering whilst car in motion).

Our trusty mechanic had worked on this same issue with a Veloster and i20; for us $40 part and 3hrs labour later, he showed me the disintegrated bushing, explaining it stood no chance from the heat from the motor etc and our almost exclusive city driving.

Anyway on balance the $400+ bill might have been undesirable, but hey we’ve owned and driven 100k km of this car’s 122k km and this was our first unscheduled repair (aside from the Euro spec brake rotors eating themselves away every 50k km but hey that’s Euro soft pads and rotors for you!).


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[Pnut]

Just wondering, is it an audible hard knock? Could it product like a squelching noise like rubber moving against metal?

I noticed on our FD it makes a squelching noise about half way to full lock when turning the wheel to the right, only does it for part of the turn about mid way then stops. Haven't noticed it turning left but I haven't listened for it specifically. I thought it sounded like a dust boot slipping on the steering rod shaft but haven't been under to have a look yet.

[Surferdude]

In my experience it's a definite knock.
I have heard sounds like you describe which always turned out to be a shroud or plastic cover making light contact somewhere.

[Pnut]

In my experience it's a definite knock.
I have heard sounds like you describe which always turned out to be a shroud or plastic cover making light contact somewhere.

That was my first thought too, but reading this thread make me panic a little lol 

[The Gonz]

Well, it's my extended "excess REC LVE" Easter break and I have a bag of couplings in one hand and a bunch of Youtube vids on the hard drive.

My questions of an accomplished thought leader as yourself @tw2005 are:
- how much unbolting can I manage to avoid? Can I do with removing plastic, lying upside down in the footwell - as I did for replacing the flasher unit for LEDs - and then removing the Mobus box before separating the coupling surfaces?
- does the end dashboard panel (with the fusebox lid) just pull off or are there concealed screws somewhere?
- what screw/bolt tips and sizes will I be needing (Torx, Phillips, hex, etc)?

[PhireSideZA]

Hey chaps.

I'm finally attempting this over the weekend, as I am off on Monday so it gives me enough time to repair things in case I go wrong.

Today, I got as far as removing the dash and plastics around the steering column, and got 3/4 steering bolts loose. That pesky fourth one! My handy dandy Bosch socket set goes in sizes as follows: 5mm, 6mm, 7mm, 8mm, 9mm, 10mm, 11mm, 13mm! There is no 12mm so I had to resort to making a plan with the 13mm, being careful not to round the bolt off. The issue being I don't have enough leverage to apply enough torque to turn the bolt loose. I have a Pic-Quic screwdriver with a hex attachment that the socket fits into and has enough reach, but leverage is a problem. I tried with a shifting spanner on the hex piece on the screwdriver shaft but it's too soft and ended up rounding it off a little. As luck would have it, my 1/2" socket set has gone missing.

At this point I gave up for the day, as it's heading into winter here and by 17h00 it's pitch black outside so I will try again tomorrow after going out to buy a proper ratchet set first thing in the morning. All that's holding me back is the final bolt, then I can drop the rack, loosen the shaft and hopefully do the repair without any further hassles.

[PhireSideZA]

After acquiring said socket set this morning, I finished the job I had started yesterday. To my dismay, the clunking noise is still somewhat there, but much improved, so the next step will be to investigate the UJ bolts and make sure they are tight. The old bush that came out was in 7/10 condition, but as soon as I pulled it out, it started disintegrating so it was only a matter of time before I would have needed to do it.

The whole job is not one I would like to do again - I did it with the assembly still on the car, as I was reluctant to detach it from the splines in case I have steering angle sensor errors appear. What I also realised afterwards was that the two rear rack bolts are different lengths and I didn't notice which one was which when I removed them. IIRC, the longer bolt was towards the left side if you were seated in the driver's seat (RHD car).

Once my body stops aching I will go and inspect the UJ bolts, and see if I can spot anything there. My mind is at ease that I got it done at least, so it should be good for another 270k km!

[Pnut]

Thanks to nzenigma, crazykev and the others posted on here i have finally gotten around to doing this on the Mrs i30, its nearly been a year since we got the car and its been doing the slight knock on the steering at low speed since we picked it up. Part was NZ$10 from the local dealer, old one was fairly munted, hopefully the photos are linked in ok below.

To add to the other posts you will need to get a long reach T40 Torx bit to remove the steering air bag, and a Torx T25? to remove the motor from the steering column.  I didn't have those so had to go down to Repco to get them, you will need to take the steering wheel off to access the screws holding the steering plastic cover off so you can get to the bolts underneath and all the wiring to unclip. I followed what you guys had posted here and in a couple of other threads, pulled the whole column out and replaced it on the bench (vice), however i didn't pull the whole frame apart but opted to follow the video at that point and wiggle the motor out enough to clear the debris and replace the coupling.

I started in the cool of the morning but hit a few snags and ended up finishing in the mid day heat, i would recommend fining a shady spot to do it if you can!   Not sure if the dash had been apart before but the screws in by the fuse panel near the door were so tight they just stripped themselves in the clips so had to butcher the plastic a bit to get it out and then use panel washers when i put it back together. I am cooling down inside a bit before taking for a test drive, its a hot summer day here so trying to avoid getting out in the sun.

[Pnut]

Well, it's my extended "excess REC LVE" Easter break and I have a bag of couplings in one hand and a bunch of Youtube vids on the hard drive.

My questions of an accomplished thought leader as yourself @tw2005 are:
- how much unbolting can I manage to avoid? Can I do with removing plastic, lying upside down in the footwell - as I did for replacing the flasher unit for LEDs - and then removing the Mobus box before separating the coupling surfaces?
- does the end dashboard panel (with the fusebox lid) just pull off or are there concealed screws somewhere?
- what screw/bolt tips and sizes will I be needing (Torx, Phillips, hex, etc)?

IMHO after doing it today
- I don't think you can access the motor side from the footwell inside the car, the MOBUS unit is in the way.
- 2 screws under the dash, pull the fuse panel cover off (clipped in) and 2 more screws behind the cover holding the dash on, then just clips holding the dash in place. The covers around the column have 1 screw underneath by the adjustment arm, but the other 2 screws are behind the steering wheel so that really needs to come off.
- Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, maybe a plastic panel pry set if you have one (i just used feel and my meager "brute" strength). T40 and T25 long reach Torx (I didn't see any tamperproof on the screws, but i didn't look and my tools were tamperproof anyway so...). 10mm socket for the steering universal lock bolt and the bolt holding the AC foot duct, the main bolts are 12mm extended socket to get over the long studs near the steering wheel end. Pretty sure that was all.

I will say this was a tad easier than replacing the steering column on the sons Pulsar recently after some pleb tried to steal it, at least with this you can slide the universal join up and down meaning you can position the  column in place before trying to connect the universal joint back up. The Pulsar was about 15 years older than the i30 so didn't have the same impact absorbing column, Nissan was a right PITA to get back in.