[tw2005]

So in the line of duty doing some research for this question, leak in the electrical installation?

My car now no longer recognises the remote to unlock. Go to use the key, it won't lock with that either. It will lock with the push button lock all on the door, and will unlock with the key. One may be an existing fault I was unaware of as I don't keylock but the remote loss happened after I disconnected the earth and went looking to see what current draw was happening in the background.

Any ideas? Simple re-learn or is this a bloody dealer  charge?

[Dazzler]

Might be worth disconnecting the negative terminal on your battery for atleast 30 minutes to reset the BCM or is that what you are saying caused the problem in the 1st instance?

[tw2005]

@cruiserfied @nzenigma

so my gut feeling is I've spike the BCM. There is no electronic key lock from the door barrel , however if the master switch is used, then using the key barrel , turning to the right activates deadlock all doors, turn left all doors unlock, turn right again nothing, lock door manually, turn left drivers door manually unlocks (not electric).

I think It's worse than that, he's dead, Jim, dead, Jim, dead, Jim;

[tw2005]

I'll have to try that later but I doubt that will do anything unless you know so?

All fuses checked and good which was no surprise.

I think whilst I was hold the probes in series I got the boy to press the remote and nothing happened although it may have crackled a little, poor contact. I bet that was when we killed it because I never saw any great current increase.

Hard to believe it would be so fragle. Even harder to believe there's no resynch of the remote you can and it's a Hyundai deal.

I do have a matched transmitter and BCM from another vehicle but you cab bet the BCM is coded to the ECU just to stop me finding a work around.

Mrs is not impressed with my fiddling. Just as well this is my chariot.

[Shambles]

Do your interior lights still fade out?

I believe that's a fair check of the BCM's integrity.

[nzenigma]

mate , Ive been socialising!!!!!. Have a play and I'll get back to you. G

[tw2005]

Will have to get back on that one
Boy hijacked the car. There's a lot of features within the bcm so it's not unrealistic to think part of it is failed and otherbits working.

God tapping on a phone here.

[cruiserfied]

Seems unlikely you spiked the BCM unless you were supplying power directly to it somewhere.
Could be something as simple as the drivers door lock actuator (master) not registering the lock command.

[tw2005]

mate , Ive been socialising!!!!!. Have a play and I'll get back to you. G

good move. Maybe if  did likewise there would be less fiddle time 

[nzenigma]

Thought about this with a clearer head this morning but see that Tim has already covered it. My other suggestions were to check door light switches are turning off and check hatch is properly locked. 

[tw2005]

Thought about this with a clearer head this morning but see that Tim has already covered it. My other suggestions were to check door light switches are turning off and check hatch is properly locked.

Oh, here we are

will do, but I must point out it was 100% good right up to the point , I unlocked the car, popped the bonnet and  power was removed.

Tim may have a point with the door master, now if he @cruiserfied or yourself @nzenigma  could just expand on what to do next in the process?

Exchange door lock assembly?  Whatdya know, just happen to have one spare

[nzenigma]

Gerard, If I read this correctly, you substituted the battery earth cable for a multimeter ....set to read current. You got no reading? If so, why would it crackle?

My feeling is this is coincidental or finger trouble., but don't ask me to elaborate because Im sick of saying "not the foggiest!" Sorry.

Like Tim, I don't think you have spiked anything, otherwise there would be i30s abandoned everywhere.
Why not take the car for a drive, hit every function. Then disconnect the battery for an hour. See if you get a reset.

And PS, are any codes showing up?

[tw2005]

Gerard, If I read this correctly, you substituted the battery earth cable for a multimeter ....set to read current. You got no reading? If so, why would it crackle?

My feeling is this is coincidental or finger trouble., but don't ask me to elaborate because Im sick of saying "not the foggiest!" Sorry.

Like Tim, I don't think you have spiked anything, otherwise there would be i30s abandoned everywhere.
Why not take the car for a drive, hit every function. Then disconnect the battery for an hour. See if you get a reset.

And PS, are any codes showing up?

NFI will suffice.

No I had a constant 350mA but when the boy press the remote nothing happened. Everytime I remove and reconnect the batery you get a little arcing from the current draw(true)

Just finished destroying the car (again)

Leaving batt off for more than half hour did zip.

swapped the BCM over and grabbed remote from wreck, all good, however.

I did(do) have 2 faults, one exposing the other.

The door master will not lock with the key, will unlock.

Now I understand Tims , comment , the BCM is not seeing the lock command from the driver's barrel but not related to no remote.

I'm now thinking, somehow It's lost it's pairing, so a trip to the dealer unless there is an alternative.

I am considerig ripping the remotes apart and swapping the guts, if I can work out how to do it without destroying them.

@nzenigma @cruiserfied

[The Gonz]

I am considering ripping the remotes apart and swapping the guts, if I can work out how to do it without destroying them.

Good move to save a dealer trip and $ 

[tw2005]

I am considering ripping the remotes apart and swapping the guts, if I can work out how to do it without destroying them.

Good move to save a dealer trip and $ 

Bad move when I break it

[tw2005]

@nzenigma
No codes using my overpriced actron auto scanner

[nzenigma]

Before you do anything! @tw2005
1. A cut key will just unlock the door. ( cant test locking, but I assume it can)
 2. If a chip is added to key 1, the ignition barrel will read it and start the car. It will also lock and unlock the car.
3. If you also use the remote ( which is separate to the chip) to open or lock the car, the next time you use key 2 the alarm will go off.

In other words, the chip in your key is functional, from what you are telling me.
Try new lock mech but same key barrel.

[tw2005]

Before you do anything! @tw2005
1. A cut key will just unlock the door. ( cant test locking, but I assume it can)
 2. If a chip is added to key 1, the ignition barrel will read it and start the car. It will also lock and unlock the car.
3. If you also use the remote ( which is separate to the chip) to open or lock the car, the next time you use key 2 the alarm will go off.

In other words, the chip in your key is functional, from what you are telling me.
Try new lock mech but same key barrel.

Sorry mate, had you activated this

 I may have heard it from your place.

Too late. Transponder chip is fine, remote module to BCM pairing - bad

swapping remote module into original key body with correct transponder chip.
swapping bcm matched to swapped remote module.


As for disassembly, all sorted!




test drive.

car starts

car locks

car unlocks with remote,

drivers master lock fault can be for another day

Also was fun changing channels with the volume control until that came good.

And my boy informs no window down with the indoor switch passenger side.

That's my list.

[nzenigma]

As they told you when you were 15,.................. LEAVE IT ALONE.

 

[tw2005]

As they told you when you were 15,.................. LEAVE IT ALONE.

 

No, I think it was more likely 5.  I have managed to paint the home  bricks a lovely grey, set my car on fire, blow up the odd telly with coat hangers and possibly the only child that was happier to diassemble the indestructable Tonka truck with a bread knife on christmas day than play with it  , right down to it's individual components and re-assemble it.

My sisters would probably add more colourful language.they use the word special often. I don't think they're being nice either

 

[tw2005]

Oh, and test driving with the centre fascia removed and disconnected.  Not a great plan, indicators stop working (hazard unit)

[tw2005]

found the problem.

It's in here .  Somewhere.

nice conformal coating

[The Gonz]

Put. The. Breadknife. Down.

 

[Dazzler]

Put. The. Breadknife. Down.

 

..and step away from the car! Slowly... 

[tw2005]

Put. The. Breadknife. Down.

 

Touche'

 

[tw2005]

Put. The. Breadknife. Down.

 

..and step away from the car! Slowly... 

Don't worry dazz, you're safe on the Island. I'm a shit swimmer

[Dazzler]

Put. The. Breadknife. Down.

 

..and step away from the car! Slowly... 

Don't worry dazz, you're safe on the Island. I'm a shit swimmer

I'm not worried about me, I'm worried about the BCM! 

[tw2005]

Put. The. Breadknife. Down.

 

..and step away from the car! Slowly... 

Don't worry dazz, you're safe on the Island. I'm a shit swimmer

I'm not worried about me, I'm worried about the BCM! 

Too late. Already capped it's ass

[Shambles]

You do know that electrolytic caps are not customer serviceable don't you

[tw2005]

You do know that electrolytic caps are not customer serviceable don't you

C'mon. Have you tried this