i30 Owners Club

ESC light on at 50 mph

juozapyne · 17 · 12689

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Offline juozapyne

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Administrator Comment From the solved topic at :link: SOLVED: ESC light on at 50 mph - every time - help needed


Hi. 2012 second generation i30 1.6 crdi exactly same issues.
But I am not very keen at repairing, so I am planning to take it to dealership or electric.
But I would like to describe which switch needs to be changed. As I understood that switch is accessible from interior, near clutch pedal? Also there are two switches near clutch? Which needs to be replaced? How this fault can be diagnosed with multimeter?
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Offline nzenigma

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Hi. 2012 second generation i30 1.6 crdi exactly same issues.
But I am not very keen at repairing, so I am planning to take it to dealership or electric.
But I would like to describe which switch needs to be changed. As I understood that switch is accessible from interior, near clutch pedal? Also there are two switches near clutch? Which needs to be replaced? How this fault can be diagnosed with multimeter?

Correct  :goodjob2: perfectly understood  :goodjob: so what inhibits you from doing the repair?
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Offline juozapyne

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I am very bad at such works. So I better explain this know how to mechanic. Just don't know which of the two switches is that faulty one?
Also called dealership and mentioned all four symptoms. They didn't get what's going on. So made appointment with electronics mechanic for Monday
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Offline nzenigma

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without going back to the thread,  :workitout: I think there is a diagram. Anyway good choice not going to the dealer. Auto electrician will see a lower switch which opens the starter circuit. Not that one, the other switch.
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Offline juozapyne

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Hi. Dived in today for quick inspection. Found two switches related to clutch pedal. Including photos. One switch which is pressed when clutch is idle (not pressed at all). Another switch is hit when clutch is fully engaged
Both switches plungers seems to be ok :-(
But switch which is pressed when clutch is fully engaged has some fresh welding marks. Clutch was replaced few months ago. Could this be related?
Which switch should be inspected? The one which is pressed when pedal is idle, or that which fresh welding marks being pushed when pedal is fully engaged?
I am so afraid that this could be more serious issue, but all symptoms match: rapid rev loss when switching gears on moving car, EPC light kicks in on 80km/h, cc does not work and Eco Gear shifting indicator does not work.

Better quality photos: :link: Hyundai i30 clutch switches - Album on Imgur

 Hmmm My earlier two posts went missing from this conversation :/
« Last Edit: October 19, 2018, 20:42:31 by juozapyne »
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Offline nzenigma

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Mate the weld looks normal.  Quick re-read and recall of our search tells me its the switch in the 2nd photo black button.

I cant physically check because most of the Oz cars are automatic.

2nd check is easy for your tech, the white switch should only control the starter motor circuit.
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Offline juozapyne

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Mate the weld looks normal.  Quick re-read and recall of our search tells me its the switch in the 2nd photo black button.

I cant physically check because most of the Oz cars are automatic.

2nd check is easy for your tech, the white switch should only control the starter motor circuit.
Thanks you are right. White"welded" one is responsible for starting motor and it works. So that black one which is pressed all the time when cloth is idle could be faulty. We'll see what electric will find out on Monday :-)
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Offline tw2005

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Hopefully I have the right model here.


93840A_SWITCH ASSY - IGNITION LOCK  938402E000




93840E_SWITCH ASSY - IGNITION LOCK  938403K000








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Offline tw2005

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Offline nzenigma

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Lyrics  :Pout:
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Offline tw2005

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Lyrics  :Pout:

Elton John - Kiki Dee

Don't go breaking my heart
I won't go breaking your heart
Don't go breaking my heart
 :exclaim:
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Offline juozapyne

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Hi. Solved by repairing spring inside switch described above. All problems went away. Thank you all for your support!
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Offline tw2005

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Hi. Solved by repairing spring inside switch described above. All problems went away. Thank you all for your support!
Since that fixed it it may be a good idea to put a new switch in if the spring is in a weakened state it may return sooner rather than later. at least tye fault finding is completed.
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Offline juozapyne

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Sorry spring replaced, not repaired. Switch was repaired ;-)
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Offline Ddraig

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Wouldn't usually wish to bump an old thread on a forum, but can I thank all the posts above as i've just managed to fix my car (which was experiencing pretty much the exact same issues), through the advice and suggestions posted.

I'm not really the hands-on type, but I managed to get a video and still image of my clutch and compared to images provided earlier in this thread (by juozapyne), the black switch plunger in question certainly looked a little off (as below);



Anyhow, car was in for a service yesterday so decided to order a 93840E in advance for them to replace and viola, all working now.

Cheers all :goodjob:

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Offline Dazzler

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Excellent!  Thanks for the feedback!  :goodjob:
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Offline mickd

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Great use of info provided, not really hands on & still had a win   :goodjob: :goodjob2:
Great useful pic.


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