[tw2005]

I thought as the i30 fleet out there starts to age, and we get more enquiries about low clutch pickup, or gear selection issues I've created a sticky thread.

Here's some research I've done noting these valves have no markings whatsoever but their job to to soften the clutch rengagement and protect the driveline from excessive shock.

Hyundai FD




GD



At some point I'll add some links to other members who have put in some excellent work on this topic with solutions as well.

I know there are many vehicles likely to have a "clutch damper" of sorts fitted. I know my old favourite E54A V6 Galant had a damper cylinder attached to the gearbox inline.

Someone makes these valves, so what's out there?

I did a search and I threw in M16 clutch damper, got some hits! 

Subarus and would appear the Turbos had these introduced for the prupose of drive train preservation I guess from the clutch dumping folk .

Here's a Subie example.








You can guess what these people have been doing, Bypass, and the solution, a M16 x 1.5 plug. Sound familar?

The valve looks identical to me.

At this point it would appear the part is not in the breakdown for availability . Still searching though.

EDIT:
SUBARU

37261FC000

More digging to be done. Subie use NABCO master cylinders, a Japnese supplier,  head in that direction.

Next stop, a NABCO fitted to Mitsubishi, I have the OEM cats for them, find a model with what again appears identical.

here's one, Found in Challengers, / Pajero sports both V6 and TDi. Sounds promising 




Good news, Mitsubishi decided to break down to this part.

MR319469

And Mitsubishi Australia have it in their system. No, there's none in Country

So, I've ordered one for the sake of research and humanity.

$20



It will have the same thread I believe as the washer spec Mitsubishi has listed 16.3mm , makes sense for a M16 thread.

I'm praying they're available still 

I'm expecting to find these may be extinct

Links:

Hyundai i30 2007 clutch problems. Fault finding and repair. - YouTube

Clutch delay valve - Wikipedia


Low clutch bite point resolution


Clutch engaging too low.

FD clutch master cylinder

2013/14 (newer shape) i30 - Clutch / Gear issues

[tw2005]

3 bucks ?

MR319469 - Genuine Mopar STOP/BUMPER-CLUTCH CONTROL FLUID

Chrysler Sebring

Mopar Part No.: MR319469
STOP/BUMPER-CLUTCH CONTROL FLUID

Mopar MR319469 STOP/BUMPER-CLUTCH CONTROL FLUID
Part Description   DAMPER Clutch Control Fluid

[Paolo5]

Thanks again, Sherlock!

[tw2005]

Thanks again, Sherlock!

If / when I get my claws on one, I will report. Being clever enough to find one is one thing, actually getting one, well, we'll see. I've been down this road before many a time to find obsolescence,  rules. 

[tw2005]

SUBARU

37261FC000

[tw2005]

Toyota

31490-60030      
31490-60040      
31490-60020      Early rebuildable type
31490-60041      
31490-60031
      
31490-12010   

NOTE: I'm unable to verify each and every Toyota part number. There is a possibility that some of these may be fit for purpose and of different designs.  Toyota-3149012010 is confirmed See images below.




Fitted to landcruisers 1990 - 2007

Pricewise, Mitsubishi is cheapest

[tw2005]

Nissan X-Trail and others

No part number

The overwhelming common thread though is NABCO

[tw2005]

Mr Bishi

[Paolo5]

Is that an MR319469...in your hot little hands?

[tw2005]

Is that an MR319469...in your hot little hands?

[tw2005]

NO, most definitely not.

[Paolo5]

 

[kamikazeeugen]

Hi!
After soo manny hours and parts put in my car to solve the low biting point of the clutch, i have bought an new set from Sachs and install yesterday.
The result is stunning. I do think now that removing the damper, which i did, is simply an delay to the imminent death of the clutch.
I think that the oem pressure plate, made by Valeo btw, is not the best. Either engineered bad or the metals inside are not ok. In time the spring plate fails to work correctly. The friction material plenty left, release bearing great shape, actuating fork ok, no visible marks on pressure plate either. Now, the clutch feels great, you can actualy feel the disengaging point. I bite the bullet because i couldint engage gears anymore, risk to damage gearbox.
I will post some pictures with the clutch.
Another thing, inside 2 off the springs from the disk there are some metal cylinders wobling arround making rattle sound. Why they put those in?
Anyhow!! Happy with my clutch now and i will install back the damper as i feel the vibrations now lol..
Hope this helps!
Regards!
Eugen

[tw2005]

Hi!
After soo manny hours and parts put in my car to solve the low biting point of the clutch, i have bought an new set from Sachs and install yesterday.
The result is stunning. I do think now that removing the damper, which i did, is simply an delay to the imminent death of the clutch.
I think that the oem pressure plate, made by Valeo btw, is not the best. Either engineered bad or the metals inside are not ok. In time the spring plate fails to work correctly. The friction material plenty left, release bearing great shape, actuating fork ok, no visible marks on pressure plate either. Now, the clutch feels great, you can actualy feel the disengaging point. I bite the bullet because i couldint engage gears anymore, risk to damage gearbox.
I will post some pictures with the clutch.
Another thing, inside 2 off the springs from the disk there are some metal cylinders wobling arround making rattle sound. Why they put those in?
Anyhow!! Happy with my clutch now and i will install back the damper as i feel the vibrations now lol..
Hope this helps!
Regards!
Eugen

Well that puts a DAMPER  on my damper theory now does'nt it.  The driven plate has springs to absorb the shock. Without seeing this, the metal inserts likly help the spring stay straight.

Anyway based on what you're saying when I put this new damper back in I should be where I was with a clutch dragging. We'll find out soon when I get the car back this week.

[Paolo5]

 "Well that puts a DAMPER  on my damper theory now does'nt it."





groan.....

[tw2005]

REPORT:

Damper Valve fitted, bleeding was a pain in the  . Clutch bite point is lowish but pretty much as it was with the bypass. With the old damper it had reached the point with the pedal buried it was dragging bad enough to have to slam it into reverse to mesh and almost impossible to engage a forward gear stationary.

That is no longer the case with the new valve fitted so I'm calling this one a bad damper as the major contributor.

Naturally we can't ignore he possibility of a bad pressure plate but the bypass is a quick way to check if the damper is faulty.

Clutch operation and enagement is noticeably softer with the damper in meaning you can let the pedal out quicker with less shock.

Someone  good with the clutch pedal  control though can engage the clutch just as smooth without the damper.

One thing I did try was raising the engine up higher in RPM on reverse and there's a little drag but not enough to grind.

It's definitely much better 

[Paolo5]

REPORT:

Damper Valve fitted, bleeding was a pain in the  . Clutch bite point is lowish but pretty much as it was with the bypass. With the old damper it had reached the point with the pedal buried it was dragging bad enough to have to slam it into reverse to mesh and almost impossible to engage a forward gear stationary.

That is no longer the case with the new valve fitted so I'm calling this one a bad damper as the major contributor.

Naturally we can't ignore he possibility of a bad pressure plate but the bypass is a quick way to check if the damper is faulty.

Clutch operation and enagement is noticeably softer with the damper in meaning you can let the pedal out quicker with less shock.

Someone  good with the clutch pedal  control though can engage the clutch just as smooth without the damper.

One thing I did try was raising the engine up higher in RPM on reverse and there's a little drag but not enough to grind.

It's definitely much better 

Great investigative and follow-up work!!!!

I have ordered one from my local Mitsubishi/Hyundai dealer to put into my diesel's survival kit.

It is quite amazing that if I went to the same counter and asked for the genuine Hyundai part it would be $410.... and if I asked them for the Mitsubishi part it would be just over $20!!!!! 

Glad I asked for the Mitsubishi one..

Many thanks 

[tw2005]

REPORT:

Damper Valve fitted, bleeding was a pain in the  . Clutch bite point is lowish but pretty much as it was with the bypass. With the old damper it had reached the point with the pedal buried it was dragging bad enough to have to slam it into reverse to mesh and almost impossible to engage a forward gear stationary.

That is no longer the case with the new valve fitted so I'm calling this one a bad damper as the major contributor.

Naturally we can't ignore he possibility of a bad pressure plate but the bypass is a quick way to check if the damper is faulty.

Clutch operation and enagement is noticeably softer with the damper in meaning you can let the pedal out quicker with less shock.

Someone  good with the clutch pedal  control though can engage the clutch just as smooth without the damper.

One thing I did try was raising the engine up higher in RPM on reverse and there's a little drag but not enough to grind.

It's definitely much better 

Great investigative and follow-up work!!!!

I have ordered one from my local Mitsubishi/Hyundai dealer to put into my diesel's survival kit.

It is quite amazing that if I went to the same counter and asked for the genuine Hyundai part it would be $410.... and if I asked them for the Mitsubishi part it would be just over $20!!!!! 

Glad I asked for the Mitsubishi one..

Many thanks 

Cheers, Just come back from a good stint. I will say there is likely an element of weakness in my pressure plate but it's definitely not as low. For $20 worth a shot. Not ike spending $200

[DragOn]

REPORT:

Damper Valve fitted, bleeding was a pain in the  . Clutch bite point is lowish but pretty much as it was with the bypass. With the old damper it had reached the point with the pedal buried it was dragging bad enough to have to slam it into reverse to mesh and almost impossible to engage a forward gear stationary.

That is no longer the case with the new valve fitted so I'm calling this one a bad damper as the major contributor.

Naturally we can't ignore he possibility of a bad pressure plate but the bypass is a quick way to check if the damper is faulty.

Clutch operation and enagement is noticeably softer with the damper in meaning you can let the pedal out quicker with less shock.

Someone  good with the clutch pedal  control though can engage the clutch just as smooth without the damper.

One thing I did try was raising the engine up higher in RPM on reverse and there's a little drag but not enough to grind.

It's definitely much better 

Great investigative and follow-up work!!!!

I have ordered one from my local Mitsubishi/Hyundai dealer to put into my diesel's survival kit.

It is quite amazing that if I went to the same counter and asked for the genuine Hyundai part it would be $410.... and if I asked them for the Mitsubishi part it would be just over $20!!!!! 

Glad I asked for the Mitsubishi one..

Many thanks 

Cheers, Just come back from a good stint. I will say there is likely an element of weakness in my pressure plate but it's definitely not as low. For $20 worth a shot. Not ike spending $200

Hi tw2005, what was the Misubishi pn. for the damper? i will look at ordering one. 

[Paolo5]

You will see the part number written on the bag in Reply #10.

FWIW Yesterday, I picked up the one that I ordered from Mitsubishi a few weeks ago.

I hope that I never have to use it but it is there if I do.

Thanks again, TW2005! 

[DragOn]

Thanks Paolo5.
 For some reason my work PC isn't showing the pic. Had a look on my tablet, and there it was. 

[Offgrid]

After lots of calls and searching, this post has (almost) resolved this issue for me.
Unfortunately, the mitsubishi part has never been ordered in the UK according to several dealers. I was recommended to contact direct to the European system to locate a price and availability. But that requires a call to a European dealership.

Meanwhile the parts dept in West London Mitsubishi suggested a site called megazip.net. They can ship from UAE. The part is less than $7 US. Though with postage its best part of $45.

Still cheaper than Hyundai Exeter, Bristol Street Motors. £184

The complete barrel and damper is available from Seoul, genuine part on ebay list no.
121521276368
Currently US $51. But free postage.

I'm about to order two Mitsubishi mr319469 units from megazip.
If anyone wants the spare PM me.
I expect it will take a week. I will probably list the spare on ebay. It's pointless ordering just one at £6 when postage is 6x the price for one or two.

I hope this update will help someone else as much as the earlier posts have helped me.

Thanks for all the help here. I was beginning to panic that I'd never resolve the problem until clutch or gearbox suffered as a result.

Hopefully this will fix the issue. There's only 70k miles on the clock so a new clutch should be a long way off even with the info about spring/pressure plate wear on here.

Thanks again.

Oh and Hello..... As I'm new around here. 😁🚗💨

[tw2005]

After lots of calls and searching, this post has (almost) resolved this issue for me.
Unfortunately, the mitsubishi part has never been ordered in the UK according to several dealers. I was recommended to contact direct to the European system to locate a price and availability. But that requires a call to a European dealership.

Meanwhile the parts dept in West London Mitsubishi suggested a site called megazip.net. They can ship from UAE. The part is less than $7 US. Though with postage its best part of $45.

Still cheaper than Hyundai Exeter, Bristol Street Motors. £184

The complete barrel and damper is available from Seoul, genuine part on ebay list no.
121521276368
Currently US $51. But free postage.

I'm about to order two Mitsubishi mr319469 units from megazip.
If anyone wants the spare PM me.
I expect it will take a week. I will probably list the spare on ebay. It's pointless ordering just one at £6 when postage is 6x the price for one or two.

I hope this update will help someone else as much as the earlier posts have helped me.

Thanks for all the help here. I was beginning to panic that I'd never resolve the problem until clutch or gearbox suffered as a result.

Hopefully this will fix the issue. There's only 70k miles on the clock so a new clutch should be a long way off even with the info about spring/pressure plate wear on here.

Thanks again.

Oh and Hello..... As I'm new around here. 😁🚗💨

Keep in mind it may help but it also may not. It has helped mine although it's still low but at least it's driveable where as prior it had reached the point it  was no longer disengaging. My car has done a lot of Ks so in reality replacing the whole clutch would be the next step

[murpha86]

Hey guys, Just got and i30 with the purchase of our driving school. Its a 2014 so I believe its a GD? Any way it has the dreaded clutch issue of low engagement and this is getting worse. Its really bad for driving students as you can imagine and is also dangerous.

So looking at the pictures of the part numbers it looks like we have the type of clutch system listed as GD 1600 MPi? in any case I cant find any obvious clutch damper in the system. Is it built into the master cylinder? or am I missing something obvious here?

Any help would be much appreciated. BTW the car has had a brand new exceedy clutch fitted only 5000km ago so the problem looks to be in the hydraulic system.

Cheers,
Sean.

[tw2005]

Hey guys, Just got and i30 with the purchase of our driving school. Its a 2014 so I believe its a GD? Any way it has the dreaded clutch issue of low engagement and this is getting worse. Its really bad for driving students as you can imagine and is also dangerous.

So looking at the pictures of the part numbers it looks like we have the type of clutch system listed as GD 1600 MPi? in any case I cant find any obvious clutch damper in the system. Is it built into the master cylinder? or am I missing something obvious here?

Any help would be much appreciated. BTW the car has had a brand new exceedy clutch fitted only 5000km ago so the problem looks to be in the hydraulic system.

Cheers,
Sean.

Looks like Diesel has it, petrol does not. I know someone who had a GD diesel and clutch replacement fixed his so It's likely doing this damper helps somewhat but ultimately it could be the clutch?

[murpha86]

SOOO being a noob i got the model of the car completely wrong. It is a 1.8 petrol car. In any case I am having this clutch issue. My mechanic is wanting to replace the slave, and seeing how i cant find any damper valve I'm thinking that's my only option. It has a brand new clutch already

[nzenigma]

Mate. having a new clutch ( good one) already fitted, you are ahead of the pack, mechanic did not understand the damper principle. So fix it this weekend DIY and its solved. 

[nzenigma]

SOOO being a noob i got the model of the car completely wrong. It is a 1.8 petrol car. In any case I am having this clutch issue. My mechanic is wanting to replace the slave, and seeing how i cant find any damper valve I'm thinking that's my only option. It has a brand new clutch already

sorry do not do So!

[Dazzler]

Mate. having a new clutch ( good one) already fitted, you are ahead of the pack, mechanic did not understand the damper principle. So fix it this weekend DIY and its solved. 

You've lost me Garry. How does Murpha86 do that? Especially if he's not mechanically minded. I would consider myself a reasonably capable DIY person but fairly nervous fiddling with mechanicals in relatively new cars. I'd be braver on an old clunker. 

[Lorian]

It's a driving school car - hard on the clutch pedal I guess - there is a thread here I'm sure (I'm not sure, as I've said before I'm getting old) about one possible low bite point issue being caused by a worn pushrod from the clutch pedal to the master cylinder. maybe it's that.