[quankino]

Hi guys,

After doing some research, I've found my car needed to replace the valve body. Emailed Hyundai Essendon this morning and got a quote for $2500 parts only (including Valve body, transmission oil, filter assy and gasket). I'm wondering if you guys know any place doing that for a better price around Melbourne.
My car is 2011 i30 Trophy done 128k km.

Thanks.

[tw2005]

Hi guys,

After doing some research, I've found my car needed to replace the valve body. Emailed Hyundai Essendon this morning and got a quote for $2500 parts only (including Valve body, transmission oil, filter assy and gasket). I'm wondering if you guys know any place doing that for a better price around Melbourne.
My car is 2011 i30 Trophy done 128k km.

Thanks.

  .  Do you know anyone skilled or a good mechanic? assuming you're certain that's all it is.

You could order the part yourself.

Internal filter 4632123001,  $35



4632123001 KIA New Genuine FILTER ASSY-VALVE BODY OIL | eBay

Valve body 4621023020  AU $989.90 + duty/taxes

Genuine 4621023020 BODY ASSY-ATM VALVE For ACCENT 09- ELANTRA 08-11 i30 08-12 | eBay



Fluid is SP3, $100 for 2 x 5L from Mitsubishi or use Penrite Multi FS or similar

Gasket should be PIFG

This is OEM  4C116 35100



Threebond 1281, $50

Whole jobe can be done in car and the pan is underneath

$1200, $35, $100, $50

There's $1000 saved,

[quankino]

Thanks tw2005. Amazing response. I probably will buy the parts on my own and bring it to a friend's garage then.

[nzenigma]

Thanks tw2005. Amazing response. I probably will buy the parts on my own and bring it to a friend's garage then.

I prefer the $150 option. Kit to repair the valve body. Valve Body Repair A4CF1 A4CF2

[quankino]

Thanks tw2005. Amazing response. I probably will buy the parts on my own and bring it to a friend's garage then.

I prefer the $150 option. Kit to repair the valve body. Valve Body Repair A4CF1 A4CF2

I read the instructions on Sonnax's website with a similar part. It mentions about bore reaming. Is that required or can I just replace the old part out? Thanks

[mickd]

Thanks tw2005. Amazing response. I probably will buy the parts on my own and bring it to a friend's garage then.

I prefer the $150 option. Kit to repair the valve body. Valve Body Repair A4CF1 A4CF2

I read the instructions on Sonnax's website with a similar part. It mentions about bore reaming. Is that required or can I just replace the old part out? Thanks

It says- original bore wears with age, bush restores diameter of bore for use with new part.  That's your problem,  your piston is sloppy in the hole. Mechanically speaking,  a piston needs a perfectly snug fit in a bore.
( other times in life a little slop is acceptable   )

[tw2005]

Thanks tw2005. Amazing response. I probably will buy the parts on my own and bring it to a friend's garage then.

I prefer the $150 option. Kit to repair the valve body. Valve Body Repair A4CF1 A4CF2

Sure, we all would. We are mere men though not immortal like yourself 

[nzenigma]

( other times in life a little slop is acceptable   )

Later in life, you finally get glasses and realise where the problem lies. 

[tw2005]

( other times in life a little slop is acceptable   )

Later in life, you finally get glasses and realise where the problem lies. 

What? not.............. Down There!

[quankino]

Little find from Repco. $64 for transmission filter with pan gasket.
https://www.repco.com.au/en/brands/repco/repco-automatic-transmission-filter-kit-gfs477/p/A9528723

Compared to genuine filter at $35 and Toyota sealant at $43, that's a decent price

[tw2005]

Little find from Repco. $64 for transmission filter with pan gasket.
http://www.repco.com.au/en/brands/repco/repco-automatic-transmission-filter-kit-gfs477/p/A9528723

Compared to genuine filter at $35 and Toyota sealant at $43, that's a decent price

Hopefully that gasket won't weep like mine did and why I purposely did not suggest that kit.  Mine was installed by a mechanic prior to me buying the car.

[quankino]

Sorry for bringing up the old topic. But I want to share my experience after replacing my valve body.
Firstly, it was an easy job, but make sure to cover your floor with a big oil catch tray.
Secondly, after replacing the valve body, you have to reset PCM/TCM Adaptive Values to get smoother shift faster. It was very jerky at first and took me a week thought.

How to Reset the ECM - YouTube
Follow the top comment at the video to reset your PCM/TCM adaptive values

[nzenigma]

Sorry for bringing up the old topic. But ........

No!!!!!!!!!! 
 mate, I regard you as one of our most valued members. Thank you for the feed back. I live for it. I value it. I hate face book.

Great result by the way. Gary 

[tw2005]

Sorry for bringing up the old topic. But I want to share my experience after replacing my valve body.
Firstly, it was an easy job, but make sure to cover your floor with a big oil catch tray.
Secondly, after replacing the valve body, you have to reset PCM/TCM Adaptive Values to get smoother shift faster. It was very jerky at first and took me a week thought.

How to Reset the ECM - YouTube
Follow the top comment at the video to reset your PCM/TCM adaptive values

Suprising it would be that out of wack I always thought it would be more to do with wear within the  box.

Did you want to share the whole experience like where you ended up getting the parts, how you resealed the pan, any issues after wards with leaks,  etc

certainly if you have the factory tool you can rest adaptives easier, surprised it took a week. I remember I had to do an emergency box swap on our old magna 4 speed. It had huge amounts of shift flare but I sorted that out in one night. It was more prevalent at high speed shifts.

It was quite interesting because I would freplicate the shift condions over and over and it would virtually half the flare each time , then I 'd do shifts it all gears and vary the throttle loads and shift speeds.

In the end i finished with a box smoother and no issues that was used  in better  condition than the piece of rubbish Fluidrive in Vic produced and lasting  a mere 60000K.

Good to hear you've had a win, what was the final outlay in comparison to the dealership?

[tw2005]

Sorry for bringing up the old topic. But ........

No!!!!!!!!!! 
 mate, I regard you as one of our most valued members. Thank you for the feed back. I live for it. I value it. I hate face book.

Great result by the way. Gary 

   

[Dazzler]

Sorry for bringing up the old topic. But ........

No!!!!!!!!!! 
 mate, I regard you as one of our most valued members. Thank you for the feed back. I live for it. I value it. I hate face book.

Great result by the way. Gary 

  Are you ok Gary?

 I think that might be the nicest post you've ever made!

Do you recall bumping your head or anything in the last couple of days? 

[The Gonz]

Maybe the eggnog is out early? 

 

[tw2005]

Maybe the eggnog is out early? 

 

I was thinking Scotch,  I think I'll have another right now

[quankino]

Suprising it would be that out of wack I always thought it would be more to do with wear within the  box.

Did you want to share the whole experience like where you ended up getting the parts, how you resealed the pan, any issues after wards with leaks,  etc

certainly if you have the factory tool you can rest adaptives easier, surprised it took a week. I remember I had to do an emergency box swap on our old magna 4 speed. It had huge amounts of shift flare but I sorted that out in one night. It was more prevalent at high speed shifts.

It was quite interesting because I would freplicate the shift condions over and over and it would virtually half the flare each time , then I 'd do shifts it all gears and vary the throttle loads and shift speeds.

In the end i finished with a box smoother and no issues that was used  in better  condition than the piece of rubbish Fluidrive in Vic produced and lasting  a mere 60000K.

Good to hear you've had a win, what was the final outlay in comparison to the dealership?

I ended up getting the reconditioned valve body from a Transmission specialist in QLD called Automatic Wreck Trans for $750. I did check around for the price and the cheapest one I found was $990 on ebay (bqauto from my memory) but it takes 2 weeks as the part is overseas.
Penrite ATF and filter were from Repco. Gasket was Permatex Red.

I followed the instruction on Youtube. Just search A4CF1/2 valve body and there’re lots of videos about it including rebuilding, changing solenoid, checking resistant, v.v. It was a bit painful to put back the valve body. I had to use the scissor jack with some carton pads to lift it up slowly. The job took me around 2 hours as I loosened and tightened all the bolts by hands. Could be faster if you have an impact drill though.

The reason why I spent a week on the adaptive values cause I mainly do bumper to bumper driving therefore the throttle position is hard to meet the requirement (25-35%). The cheap OBDII from ebay is really helpful here 😁

I still can see some of tiny black pieces when I check the fluid. Should I change the ATF one more time to clean out the transmission?

[tw2005]

Suprising it would be that out of wack I always thought it would be more to do with wear within the  box.

Did you want to share the whole experience like where you ended up getting the parts, how you resealed the pan, any issues after wards with leaks,  etc

certainly if you have the factory tool you can rest adaptives easier, surprised it took a week. I remember I had to do an emergency box swap on our old magna 4 speed. It had huge amounts of shift flare but I sorted that out in one night. It was more prevalent at high speed shifts.

It was quite interesting because I would freplicate the shift condions over and over and it would virtually half the flare each time , then I 'd do shifts it all gears and vary the throttle loads and shift speeds.

In the end i finished with a box smoother and no issues that was used  in better  condition than the piece of rubbish Fluidrive in Vic produced and lasting  a mere 60000K.

Good to hear you've had a win, what was the final outlay in comparison to the dealership?

I ended up getting the reconditioned valve body from a Transmission specialist in QLD called Automatic Wreck Trans for $750. I did check around for the price and the cheapest one I found was $990 on ebay (bqauto from my memory) but it takes 2 weeks as the part is overseas.
Penrite ATF and filter were from Repco. Gasket was Permatex Red.

I followed the instruction on Youtube. Just search A4CF1/2 valve body and there’re lots of videos about it including rebuilding, changing solenoid, checking resistant, v.v. It was a bit painful to put back the valve body. I had to use the scissor jack with some carton pads to lift it up slowly. The job took me around 2 hours as I loosened and tightened all the bolts by hands. Could be faster if you have an impact drill though.

The reason why I spent a week on the adaptive values cause I mainly do bumper to bumper driving therefore the throttle position is hard to meet the requirement (25-35%). The cheap OBDII from ebay is really helpful here 😁

I still can see some of tiny black pieces when I check the fluid. Should I change the ATF one more time to clean out the transmission?

Not sure what the tiny black pieces is all about. You cleaned the pan and magnets I expect. was it a full trans flush after the vlave body was replaced?

Sometimes I may get a little gray oxide showing on a hard wipe of the stick, the filter should capture anything though.

[quankino]

Not sure what the tiny black pieces is all about. You cleaned the pan and magnets I expect. was it a full trans flush after the vlave body was replaced?

Sometimes I may get a little gray oxide showing on a hard wipe of the stick, the filter should capture anything though.

It’s the black stuff at the first wipe of the stick. I’ll add pics if I see it again

[tw2005]

Not sure what the tiny black pieces is all about. You cleaned the pan and magnets I expect. was it a full trans flush after the vlave body was replaced?

Sometimes I may get a little gray oxide showing on a hard wipe of the stick, the filter should capture anything though.

It’s the black stuff at the first wipe of the stick. I’ll add pics if I see it again

Good idea, sounds like it may be something normal

[quankino]

@tw2005 the first wipe off the stick is within the yellow marked circuit

[tw2005]

@tw2005 the first wipe off the stick is within the yellow marked circuit

That's typically what I see whenever I give mine a wipe

[Eyethirty]

Thanks for your topic quankino,

I did one on the VB a couple of years ago, which I have no revived after getting a new VB.

I wanted to know if this fixed your issues and how is the car driving now days?

Thanks

[quankino]

Thanks for your topic quankino,

I did one on the VB a couple of years ago, which I have no revived after getting a new VB.

I wanted to know if this fixed your issues and how is the car driving now days?

Thanks

Hi there,
The car is running smoothly now when the ATF temperature is getting warm (>50*C). A bit jerky during 2-3 gear when running cold but I'm getting used to it. At this age of the car, I won't touch the transmission anymore. If it's broken down, it'll go to the junk

[tw2005]

Thanks for your topic quankino,

I did one on the VB a couple of years ago, which I have no revived after getting a new VB.

I wanted to know if this fixed your issues and how is the car driving now days?

Thanks

Hi there,
The car is running smoothly now when the ATF temperature is getting warm (>50*C). A bit jerky during 2-3 gear when running cold but I'm getting used to it. At this age of the car, I won't touch the transmission anymore. If it's broken down, it'll go to the junk

It could just need the adaptives reset and relearn procedure done. I'm not too sure if disconnecting the battery would do this otherwise everytime you replaced the battery you'd have crappy shifts. I've never experienced that with any of mine but I did find this info at SONNAX which I would trust. It suggests after 2002 you need the factory tool to do it via software.

Sonnax Clearing & Relearning Hyundai Shift Adapts

[quankino]

Thanks for your topic quankino,

I did one on the VB a couple of years ago, which I have no revived after getting a new VB.

I wanted to know if this fixed your issues and how is the car driving now days?

Thanks

Hi there,
The car is running smoothly now when the ATF temperature is getting warm (>50*C). A bit jerky during 2-3 gear when running cold but I'm getting used to it. At this age of the car, I won't touch the transmission anymore. If it's broken down, it'll go to the junk

It could just need the adaptives reset and relearn procedure done. I'm not too sure if disconnecting the battery would do this otherwise everytime you replaced the battery you'd have crappy shifts. I've never experienced that with any of mine but I did find this info at SONNAX which I would trust. It suggests after 2002 you need the factory tool to do it via software.

Sonnax Clearing & Relearning Hyundai Shift Adapts

I'll drop the car for the airbag recall next Monday so I might ask them to do it if they're nice enough

[tw2005]

Thanks for your topic quankino,

I did one on the VB a couple of years ago, which I have no revived after getting a new VB.

I wanted to know if this fixed your issues and how is the car driving now days?

Thanks

Hi there,
The car is running smoothly now when the ATF temperature is getting warm (>50*C). A bit jerky during 2-3 gear when running cold but I'm getting used to it. At this age of the car, I won't touch the transmission anymore. If it's broken down, it'll go to the junk

It could just need the adaptives reset and relearn procedure done. I'm not too sure if disconnecting the battery would do this otherwise everytime you replaced the battery you'd have crappy shifts. I've never experienced that with any of mine but I did find this info at SONNAX which I would trust. It suggests after 2002 you need the factory tool to do it via software.

Sonnax Clearing & Relearning Hyundai Shift Adapts

I'll drop the car for the airbag recall next Monday so I might ask them to do it if they're nice enough

Can't hurt, it's just an opinion, we're getting our software done tomorrow. The box in the diesel hatch, has done 250K and from what I could tell VB went in at 140K I got it at 160K and it's had 3 flushes and 1 filter change  in that period on the last. buttery smooth

[quankino]

Can't hurt, it's just an opinion, we're getting our software done tomorrow. The box in the diesel hatch, has done 250K and from what I could tell VB went in at 140K I got it at 160K and it's had 3 flushes and 1 filter change  in that period on the last. buttery smooth

I kinda regret to buy the petrol version to drive around the city. Roundly 10.5 L/100km is painful for the current fuel price.