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FD Strange Vibration 1800 ~ 2100 rpm

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Offline batuhangulludere

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Hello to everyone,

My car is FD 5th gear 2010 66kw 1.6 crdi 84000km and Korean.
My problem, on the way when it accelerate in 3rd, 4th and 5th gear 1800 ~ 2100 rpm range appears intense vibration.
Engine mounts replaced. (Hyundai brand parts)
Clutch kit replaced. (Luk brand)
Injectors were maintained and calibrated. (Bosch service)
My problem still unsolved. Nobody around me knows the source of this problem.
Doesn't anyone know the source of this problem? Please help me.

« Last Edit: November 03, 2019, 21:42:06 by batuhangulludere »
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Offline tw2005

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Hello to everyone,

My car is FD 5th gear 2010 66kw 1.6 crdi 84000km and Korean.
My problem, on the way when it accelerate in 3rd, 4th and 5th gear 1800 ~ 2100 rpm range appears intense vibration.
Engine mounts replaced. (Hyundai brand parts)
Clutch kit replaced. (Luk brand)
Injectors were maintained and calibrated. (Bosch service)
My problem still unsolved. Nobody around me knows the source of this problem.
Doesn't anyone know the source of this problem? Please help me.
Inner joint on longest CV shaft worn? evidence of any grease escaping? Felt through the floor? Increases with load or up hills?
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Offline Paolo39

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Does it stop after clutch replacement and then get back again?





Offline batuhangulludere

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    • tr Türkiye
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Hello to everyone,

My car is FD 5th gear 2010 66kw 1.6 crdi 84000km and Korean.
My problem, on the way when it accelerate in 3rd, 4th and 5th gear 1800 ~ 2100 rpm range appears intense vibration.
Engine mounts replaced. (Hyundai brand parts)
Clutch kit replaced. (Luk brand)
Injectors were maintained and calibrated. (Bosch service)
My problem still unsolved. Nobody around me knows the source of this problem.
Doesn't anyone know the source of this problem? Please help me.
Inner joint on longest CV shaft worn? evidence of any grease escaping? Felt through the floor? Increases with load or up hills?

Inner Joint on both CV shaft was fine. There was no grease leakage. Yes first at the front and then spread the floor. Yes! increases with load or up hills.
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Offline batuhangulludere

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Does it stop after clutch replacement and then get back again?

Nope :(

When the clutch changed, it still continued. But I think it starts at 1900, not 1800.
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Offline Paolo39

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Does it stop after clutch replacement and then get back again?

Nope :(

When the clutch changed, it still continued. But I think it starts at 1900, not 1800.

I asked about clutch, because my friend mechanic said that he had to make recently few warranty claims against LUK clutches. Something is not right with balance/weight. I would start from checking simple things - tyre balance, then alignment, then eventually drive shafts imbalance. Are you hearing any noise when turning?


Offline tw2005

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I hear it and I'm thinking flywheel balance. The freq of the the sound sounds more like engine RPM than driveshaft speed and I never heard my shafts but I could feel them.  Do these have DMF?
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Offline tw2005

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Offline tw2005

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Offline tw2005

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Offline batuhangulludere

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Does it stop after clutch replacement and then get back again?

Nope :(

When the clutch changed, it still continued. But I think it starts at 1900, not 1800.

I asked about clutch, because my friend mechanic said that he had to make recently few warranty claims against LUK clutches. Something is not right with balance/weight. I would start from checking simple things - tyre balance, then alignment, then eventually drive shafts imbalance. Are you hearing any noise when turning?

It was still usable when my old clutch came out. I think the new clutch (LUK) works better than the old clutch (Original). Because I saw improvement in driving comfort and performance. I don't think this vibration is clutch-dependent. After 2100 rpm, there is no problem with performance and vibration. Even at speeds of 170 km / h, the vehicle does not vibrate like this. I want to think of simple things but mechanics says all things good.

Is there 2 pieces of 51720B in our vehicle? And Do you think it could be because of this parts?
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Offline tw2005

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Does it stop after clutch replacement and then get back again?

Nope :(

When the clutch changed, it still continued. But I think it starts at 1900, not 1800.

I asked about clutch, because my friend mechanic said that he had to make recently few warranty claims against LUK clutches. Something is not right with balance/weight. I would start from checking simple things - tyre balance, then alignment, then eventually drive shafts imbalance. Are you hearing any noise when turning?

It was still usable when my old clutch came out. I think the new clutch (LUK) works better than the old clutch (Original). Because I saw improvement in driving comfort and performance. I don't think this vibration is clutch-dependent. After 2100 rpm, there is no problem with performance and vibration. Even at speeds of 170 km / h, the vehicle does not vibrate like this. I want to think of simple things but mechanics says all things good.

Is there 2 pieces of 51720B in our vehicle? And Do you think it could be because of this parts?

Honestly I don't know what to think. Something can be out of balance in a certain range and be fines at other speeds. I think a vibration in the wheels would be felt in the steering wheel and it looked normal in the video. I also think if you were at a speed and it was a wheel, go neutral and drop engine to idle then vibration would likely still be there. I don't expect that will be the case  here, maybe try it.

what are you wanting to know about 51720B,are there 2 different part numbers?
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Offline tw2005

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This is my exploded view, looks a bit different

also note the ball joint change, which one does yours have?

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Offline Dazzler

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Awesome work Gerard. Appreciate all your efforts in this one.. Finding all those links and diagrams etc..  :judges:   :hatoff:
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Offline batuhangulludere

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This is my exploded view, looks a bit different

also note the ball joint change, which one does yours have?



Thanks for this diagram. My diagram is different one. I thought there were 2 bearings connected to an Axle. But your diagram shows 1 bearing and part number is 51720. On the road i dont hear any humming. I'il have it checked out soon.

If there is a problem with the flywheel, what do you suggest I do. The mechanic examined the flywheel and said it looked fine. Before the clutch was installed, the flywheel surface was sanded and nothing changed.
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Offline tw2005

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This is my exploded view, looks a bit different

also note the ball joint change, which one does yours have?



Thanks for this diagram. My diagram is different one. I thought there were 2 bearings connected to an Axle. But your diagram shows 1 bearing and part number is 51720. On the road i dont hear any humming. I'il have it checked out soon.

If there is a problem with the flywheel, what do you suggest I do. The mechanic examined the flywheel and said it looked fine. Before the clutch was installed, the flywheel surface was sanded and nothing changed.
This is out of my league, obviously if you had the issue before  I would have had it machined/checked for balance prior to the clutch install to be thorough. Bit of a gussing game now and so much work to the the box.

@nzenigma any thoughts with this one?
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Offline tw2005

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OEM bearing is 517200Q000
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Offline nzenigma

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This is out of my league, obviously if you had the issue before  I would have had it machined/checked for balance prior to the clutch install to be thorough. Bit of a gussing game now and so much work to the the box.

@nzenigma any thoughts with this one?

The well discussed and researched vibration  in the 1800 ~ 2100 rpm range.

Respectfully, this is a 'one oar in the water' discussion.
 The above remedies have been advanced numerous times. We have joined many others, including the recent Irish member and his mechanics, who against all advice, had his gearbox, clutch and flywheel changed.  :head_butt:  AND STILL HAD THE PROBLEM!!!

My assumption is little understood and remains untested. That is, the car is resonating at a well known rev range.  However, that theory will remain mere theory until some technician who understands harmonic resonance begins to work on a culprit car.

@tw2005 the pictures of the usual, same, same, are uselessly nice; but, do me a favour and show some pics of the lumps of steel on CRDi cross members  and engine mounts (i30 & ix35 etc ) and ask the question why are they there?  :workitout:


« Last Edit: November 05, 2019, 00:56:32 by nzenigma »
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Offline tw2005

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This is out of my league, obviously if you had the issue before  I would have had it machined/checked for balance prior to the clutch install to be thorough. Bit of a gussing game now and so much work to the the box.

@nzenigma any thoughts with this one?

The well discussed and researched vibration  in the 1800 ~ 2100 rpm range.

Respectfully, this is a 'one oar in the water' discussion.
 The above remedies have been advanced numerous times. We have joined many others, including the recent Irish member and his mechanics, who against all advice, had his gearbox, clutch and flywheel changed.  :head_butt:  AND STILL HAD THE PROBLEM!!!

My assumption is little understood and remains untested. That is, the car is resonating at a well known rev range.  However, that theory will remain mere theory until some technician who understands harmonic resonance begins to work on a culprit car.

@tw2005 the pictures of the usual, same, same, are uselessly nice; but, do me a favour and show some pics of the lumps of steel on CRDi cross members  and engine mounts (i30 & ix35 etc ) and ask the question why are they there?  :workitout:
FD CRDi frame








Why are they there? :Pout:

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Offline nzenigma

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My assumption is little understood and remains untested. That is, the car is resonating at a well known rev range.  However, that theory will remain mere theory until some technician who understands harmonic resonance begins to work on a culprit car.


Why are they there? :Pout:

Thanks mate.

We should rely upon past research here and wait for some reasoned contributions.

Or maybe the Farcebook pages  :laughter: :laughter: :laughter: :laughter: will reveal the truth  :happyjumper: :happyjumper:
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Offline nzenigma

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Why are they there? :Pout:

That is the relevant part forget the rest. The ix35 uses a similar engine mount and also has a block of steel bolted to the back of the sub frame.

@batuhangulludere  there is a major flaw in perusing the wheel bearing and shaft.

1. this vibration only occurs during that short engine rev range. But the drive shafts spin through a wide and different rev range depending on the gear you are in.

2. this vibration only occurs in manual cars. To my knowledge we have never had it occur in an auto car. But both cars basically share the same drive set up.
« Last Edit: November 05, 2019, 20:23:01 by nzenigma »
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Offline batuhangulludere

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@nzenigma @tw2005 Thank you so much. You're totally right. I changed 2 of these 4 engine mounts and these were the ones on the top. Mechanic did not want replace the bottom engine mounts. He had actually seen these engine mounts when replacing clutch and he said There's nothing wrong with them. :(

I would like to add that today I replaced my old OEM 15 wheels with new OEM 17 wheels. Vibration is reduced! But it still feels a little and sounds. I think that rpm went faster with 17 wheels.

Taking into account what you said, I will replace the engine mounts on the bottom. I will share the situation soon.
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Offline nzenigma

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@nzenigma @tw2005 Thank you so much. You're totally right. I changed 2 of these 4 engine mounts and these were the ones on the top. Mechanic did not want replace the bottom engine mounts. He had actually seen these engine mounts when replacing clutch and he said There's nothing wrong with them. :(

I would like to add that today I replaced my old OEM 15 wheels with new OEM 17 wheels. Vibration is reduced! But it still feels a little and sounds. I think that rpm went faster with 17 wheels.

Taking into account what you said, I will replace the engine mounts on the bottom. I will share the situation soon.

@batuhangulludere .

Mate, sorry for any confusion; we are getting mixed up in translation.

I did NOT mean that you should change the engine mounts.

I was pointing out to @tw2005  that diesel engines vibrate and Hyundai try to reduce the vibrations by putting weights at certain places such as the one on the engine mount.

 I believe the problem is like playing a musical instrument. Like a trumpet, some part (or area) of the car body is being caused to resonate (it is being played!)

I have spent a lot of time eliminating unwanted harmonic resonance in audio devices and also on some older cars. Unfortunately, most Australian i30s are automatic, so I have never been able work on your problem. I remain quite suspicious of the exhaust system.

You need to find the place where the noise is greatest and modify that area.
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