[SafetyChes]

Hello fellow owners. I’m after some advice. I’ve just got my auto i30 diesel back from MOT and it’s failed. Parking brake imbalance. Driver side wheel still turns when when hand brake is applied. Passenger side if fine. It takes 6 clicks for the handbrake to “engage” as I tightened it before it went for MOT. Will tightening then Handbrake more solve the problem or will replacing the cable Solve it or any other suggestions? Please help.

[eye30]

From memory think you have to do each side individually.

Or

As again from memory, parking pads/shoes are not the braking pads so one may not be operating correctly.

A more experienced owner may have additional info.

[SafetyChes]

Thanks, i've read a few posts from a google search that mention parking brake shoes. my issue is the handbrake cable goes to the caliper and not the drum so I don't think i have shoes. when i replaced the caliper last year i had to make sure I brought a caliper "with electronic parking brake". Goggle really is no help here haha.

[BrendanP]

I'm confused. What year is your car? If you have a conventional handbrake lever that you say you adjusted to put the brake on at 6 clicks, that sounds like a mechanical handbrake, not an electronic one. You've said the cable goes to the caliper, is this a steel wire cable or an electrical cable?

[SafetyChes]

62 plate

The handbrake is mechanical, its a wire that goes to the caliper. But its an automatic so i just assumed thats why I needs a caliper for an electic parking brake.

[BrendanP]

The caliper in the photo has mechanically operated handbrake. If it was electronic version there would be a switch in the cabin to operate it, not a dirty great lever. Not to be confused with the Hill start assist function. In the forum there is a post by sheff30 where a caliper is stripped down to show the internals. If the shaft that is rotated by the handbrake lever has seized up to the point where it doesn't spring back, then the pads will remain pressed against the disc until they get worn away. The handbrake will then be ineffective if the caliper lever is stuck in the handbrake on position.

I would take the wheel off  and get someone to pull the handbrake lever up and down while you watch the lever on the caliper to see if it's moving freely backwards & forwards. You can take a look at the other side for comparison. Also check the thickness of the pads & discs. I changed the rear disc pads on my  65 reg diesel at around 58,000 miles because the drivers side pads had worn away a lot faster than the other side. I suspect the caliper was sticking. Anyhow, after pushing back the caliper piston & fitting new pads, the wear has been pretty even, but I do keep an eye on it.

Also, make sure the inboard disc pad (next to the caliper piston) has a little pip on the back which lines up with a slot in the piston. I've bought disc pads which were supposed to be the right ones and had to take them back because the pip was missing. The pip stops the piston rotating. If the piston is free to rotate it prevents the handbrake mechanism working properly.

[ro0sau]

hey

i own a 2015 GD series Common Rail Diesel Injection i30
what model do you own...might be helpful, or not
 
lookie here; Hyundai I30 Mark 2 (2014) Parking/Handbrake Adjuster Location in Hd - YouTube]

Hyundai i30 2008 rear brake disc and pad replacement VID 20200512 150125 - YouTube

HOW TO REPLACE REAR BRAKE PADS AND DISC ROTOR ON HYUNDAI ELANTRA - YouTube


3 links are beter than 1?   

[Fresh_I30CW_Owner]

I've got the same issue as you describe.
my left rear wheel is still able to be turned by hand (not freely, but not a major resistance) , even when I pull the handbrake lever all the way up.

After diagnosis, it was indeed the lever, to which the handbrake cable attaches to, which kept being stuck.
I tried to free it up, but it didn't do much, so I ordered some new brake shoes (for the parking brake) and I'll put them on next weekend and clean up the lever.

If you need some pictures on how to get it loose, I'll post them here for you

[sundiz]

The lever usually needs brutal force to get it in pieces for cleaning. You might want to get few small E clips before the job as the old one which holds the pin in the lever can be in bad shape. I broke one while assembling the lever back. It was so rusty.

Just to clarify for the handbrakes. The FD has the (often stuck) lever with drum brake. GD uses disc brake where handbrakes moves the brakepiston (as seen in the picture in this post)

[BrendanP]

If fitting new shoes, consider replacing the discs if a groove has been worn on the inside of the drum. In normal use there should be negligible wear of the brake shoes, and the thickness of the lining is quite thin. A worn brake disc will have a slightly larger diameter than new shoes, so the handbrake may not hold as well due to reduced contact area. It may be necessary to bed in the handbrake shoes before they give good grip. In 2018 I replaced rear discs, pads, shoes, and cleaned the handbrake lever and lubricated it.

A few weeks ago I fitted new rear discs and pads, after another 90,000km, and the rear shoes had very little wear, with no groove inside the disc.